Overview of Fall Vegetable Planting

Sowing seeds in the fall garden. Photo Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

​Maybe you are wondering what you can still plant in your garden before it gets too cold, and daylight gets too short?

Margaret Roach on her website A Way to Garden gives links to various regional garden calendars. Margaret is in winter-hardiness zone 6a (Hudson Valley). For Virginia, her sources are Virginia Tech vegetable planting guide and Southern Exposure Seed Exchange vegetable garden calendar We’re in winter-hardiness zone 7a, with an average first frost date of Oct 15-25. Our 20 year average first frost date comes in at 10/24.

Weather Spark chart of average daily temperatures in Louisa County, Virginia

To find out more about your local weather statistics, go to WeatherSpark.com, and first look a the graph of average High and Low air Temperatures, and the chart below that. Here the average daily high in October is 71F (22C), the average nightly low is 49F (9.5C)  and the overall daily average is 59F (15C). In November average temperatures are 9F (5C) lower and in December another 9F (5C) colder. The soil will stay warmer than the air for quite a while, which helps seed germination.

Harvest to Table logo

Stephen Albert of Harvest to Table in Northern California has run a great website with loads of good information, for decades. Nowadays it may be using AI (it gets repetitive), but the real info is in there, if you look. It is run as a SubStack, and has a generous free subscription version. Check out The Complete Guide to Fall Vegetable Gardening: Planning, Planting, Growing, and Harvesting. This guide explains planning a fall garden, including deciding when to plant and calculating days to maturity; choosing crops; and everything from preparing the soil and protecting plants, to harvesting and extending the season. It includes crop-by-crop guides with details for planting, growing, and harvesting.

Watch for Nature’s Signals of the Deepening of Fall

The signs are there before the weather forecast lets you know. Stephen Albert lists these:

  • Nights begin cooling into the 50s and low 60s F (10–16°C).
  • Daylight hours become noticeably shorter
  • Soil temperatures decline
  • Morning dew becomes more common.
  • Tomatoes and squash begin slowing their production.
  • Sunflowers finish blooming and begin setting seed.
  • Goldenrod, asters, and other late-summer wildflowers come into bloom.

These natural signals indicate that cool-season vegetables will soon thrive.

By the time these things are obvious, you will hopefully have planned your fall and winter vegetable garden. The goal is to get crops established while there is still enough warmth and daylight to bring them to harvest.

Over-wintered Acadia spinach emerging undamaged from under the ice and snow. Ken Bezilla

Make a list of crops you hope to grow.  For each one, figure when you will need to have completed a satisfactory harvest. See my list of Winter-kill Temperatures of Cold-Hardy Vegetables.

Next figure when you think it will get that cold, with help from WeatherSpark.

Work backwards from the harvest date you want. Check the days to maturity for each crop. Then allow extra time, perhaps two weeks, for the shorter days and cooler temperatures of autumn. Different crops will have different last planting dates.

Soil thermometer.
Photo by Green Living/Taylor

The Importance of Soil Temperatures

Also watch the soil temperature, which will tell you what you can plant when.

As the soil moves through several temperature ranges, be ready to plant different crops.

75–80°F (24-27C): Begin transplanting broccoli, cabbage and kale; direct-seed crops such as beets and carrots (and water them whenever needed).

65–75°F (18-24C): This is a good temperature range for many fall vegetables, including lettuce, spinach, carrots, beets, Swiss chard and Asian greens. If your Swiss chard survives the winter it will feed you plenty of leaves in spring

55–65°F (13-18C): This is an excellent range for later sowings of spinach, arugula and radishes, provided you still have enough  days to mature them before it gets too cold.

Winter cover crops for vegetable gardens in zone 7a. Pam Dawling

Unusual Crop for October: Ramps

2018 Ramps and eggs. Jeanine Davis program, 2022

Ramps

For October, I’m writing about ramps. October is a good time to plant ramps bulbs and seeds. Bulblets are better planted in early spring. Ramps thrive in USDA Winter Hardiness Zones 3-7. Some of this material is from my second edition of Sustainable Market Farming, and the sources quoted here.

Today, ramps are a wild-edible delicacy in most places and defines a sort of Appalachian or Eastern U.S. “terroir”, but what was once a commonly found plant is now a rarity as land development and sprawl, deforestation, and over-harvesting by some foragers has decimated the population.

Ramps, (Allium tricoccum) (aka wood leeks or wild leeks) combine some of the flavors of leeks, onions, and garlic. They are a traditional and newly fashionable food. Ramps are a native woodland perennial that can be wildcrafted sustainably or raised in a suitable woodland.

“The ramp has broad, smooth, light green leaves, often with deep purple or burgundy tints on the lower stems, and a scallion-like stalk and bulb. Both the white lower leaf stalks and the broad green leaves are edible. The flower stalk only appears after the leaves have died back, unlike the similar Allium ursinum, (Ramsons) in which leaves and flowers can be seen at the same time. Ramps grow in close groups strongly rooted just beneath the surface of the soil.” – Cultivation of Ramps, North Carolina State University

It takes a ramp plant 7 years to reach sexual maturity from seeds and produce more seed. The plants are mature when their leaves reach heights of 6”-8” (15-20cm).  From planting bulblets it takes 3-5 years to reach harvest size. So I’ll start by explaining how to wild-craft the leaves, then move on to info on establishing your own ramps.

Ramps research NC State ramps harvest study Jeanine Davis program, 2022

Harvesting ramps leaves

Ramps are a spring ephemeral of deciduous forests that can be wild-harvested sustainably for 1 month in the eastern half of the US and Canada, starting when tree buds appear. By late May, the leaves yellow and die back, and a flower stem emerges.

Wild ramps are being over-harvested, and it is important to make sure that not all these wild culinary delights vanish and they are still able to find their way onto plates in a sustainable fashion. Take only what you can use in a few days. Only 5% to 10% of the ramps in a patch should be harvested each year to ensure their future survival. The most sustainable harvest method is to cut only one leaf, leaving the bulb and second leaf to continue growing. Before harvesting from public lands, check local regulations. There may be limits on where, when and how much.

There are some toxic look-alikes so be sure the plants you pick smell like onion or garlic. If you’re unsure, let a knowledgeable forager confirm your find or just don’t pick them. Do not pick Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis) or False hellebore (Veratrum genus) by mistake.

Harvesting the leaves with bulbs attached is also possible, if the area has plants to spare. To harvest, use a sharp strong knife, such as a hori-hori and slide it into the soil at an angle. Cut the bulb just above the roots, and leave those in the ground to regrow. Take only the leaves and bulb. Some say a wildcrafted whole ramp (with bulb intact) is never a sustainably harvested ramp. Bulbs can be frozen for later use.

See the video How to Sustainably Harvest Ramps from Carriage House Farm. It uses a similar knife technique but removes only stem and leaves.

Ramps bulbs. Gates Hill Farm

Buy ramp seeds, bulbs and bulblets

To get started, you can buy seeds year-round, bulbs in September and October, and bulblets in late winter at Gates Hill Farm rampfarm.com. Once you have established some plants, you can divide and replant annually.

There are about 50 seeds per ounce, roughly 2 per gram. Ramp seeds require a warm period followed by cold stratification to break dormancy. If there is not an adequate warm period after sowing, the seed stays dormant until the second spring. This explains the wide range of 6-18 months to germinate ramp seeds. It’s easy to see how wild ramps get seriously over-harvested.

Collect ramp seeds in August and September

If you were wild-crafting ramps in spring, late summer/early fall is time to pay the piper. Collect seed and scatter it over the patches you dug from. Or collect seed to grow in woodlands at home – without of course, taking too many away from a place they could grow naturally.

Establishing a ramp planting

Ramps grow best in deciduous woodlands with adequate moisture. There are projects to re-establish ramps in a number of regions in the Eastern United States.

Carriage House Farm is one such attempt by Grow Appalachia, which is a program of Berea College in Kentucky, Grow Appalachia works with farmers, gardeners, ranchers, and conservationists across a five state area to reintroduce old native and heirloom species of plants.  Ramps is/was one plant in this program. https://carriagehousefarmllc.com/journal/2019/4/24/on-ramps?rq=ramps

Jeanine Davis, Extension Specialist, Herbs/Organics/Specialty Crops/Vegetables, Horticultural Science, NCSU, ran a ramps harvest study in 2022.

NC State ramps harvest study Jeanine Davis program, 2022

Resources with more on Ramps

A Good Resource for Unusual Vegetables and Fruits

https://www.savannainstitute.org/publications/

Uncommon and perennial fruit and nut crops, agroforestry, silvopasture. Dig around the website – there’s more info than at first apparent.

Many other publications on tree crops, Key Perennial Crops, black walnuts, Asian pears, persimmons, honeyberry, mulberry, serviceberry, aronia, cider apples.

Hoophouse Solarization Ponderings

 

Our hoophouse on solarizing day, August 5. Note we kept the big shadecloth over the roof until we had done the work of installing the plastic over the soil. Photo Ken Bezilla

Solarization Benefits We Hope For

I wrote Solarization of Our Whole Hoophouse on 8/12/26. This summer we decided to solarize the whole hoophouse. We hope to reduce fungal diseases in our winter crops, draw down the weed seed bank, and kill lots of nematodes. We planned to solarize for the whole of August (4 weeks). We started that on August 5, and solarized until September 3, a full 4 weeks later.

A One-Month Break from Usual Hoophouse Work

It was a nice break to do nothing in the hoophouse for a month except run the drip irrigation twice a week. We left the drip tape in place so we could water the soil and keep it alive below the hot zone. It was an unearthly sight to just have a sea of plastic in there, and one of the crew popping in there to turn on the irrigation reported that to was quite surreal to walk barefoot on the hot plastic.

We agreed to use the time to do some infrastructure repairs, and did get a new window made and the other one repaired.

We repaired our big all-encompassing shadecloth and reset the grommets to be a better fit with the spacing of the hooks in the baseboards.

We researched horizontal airflow fans to replace our hippy-rigged box fans, but we balked at the $1000 price tag. Maybe EQIP grants would help?

We did our crop planning for the winter and made a map. We cross-checked the schedule against the map and made sure everything fit. We did some perimeter weeding and laid down landscape fabric.

A Bad Choice Narrowly Avoided

We had the notion that if we had thought of it in time, we might have spread mature compost on the beds before spreading the plastic and killed the weed seeds that landed on the compost pile while we ignored it all summer. We got behind with the mowing, and we know grass and spiny amaranth seeded somewhat on to the pile. Fortunately, we didn’t do that! Sterilized compost has most of its microorganisms killed! Instead, we re-composted the weed-seed-infested pile and got a new pile in the meantime.

Hoophouse soil thermometer showing 100F (38C). Photo Ken Bezilla

De-Solarizing Day

On de-solarizing day we allowed a little lead time (not enough!) to disperse some of the 120F (49C) heat by flinging open the doors and windows. The soil temperature was 100F (38C). The peak air temperature during the month may have reached 140F (60C) although no one wanted to linger in there long enough to really study the thermometer. It had been 80F (27C) before we solarized and is back down to that temperature in as I write this in late September.

Normally we leave the big shadecloth in place over the whole hoophouse until mid-September or so, but this year we wanted maximum heating for the solarization, so we removed it a couple of days after solarizing (when it stopped raining).

We had bought 32’x100’ (9.7×30.5m) plastic which was just right for the footprint of our 30’x 96’ (9 x 29m) gothic hoophouse. We unrolled it down the center bed (it was folded in several concertina folds from each edge to the middle). We mimicked that kind of folding to pack it away.

The first step of removing the hoophouse solarizing plastic: folding the edges to the middle. Photo Ken Bezilla

We started by removing the buckets of rocks we had set round the edges to hold the plastic down. Next we folded both sides to meet in the middle. We got old towels to wipe the underside of the plastic dry. We used some of the drying time to teach broadforking and cultivation and raking to new crew members. We noticed how warm the soil was to our hands.

Wiping the solarizing plastic dry between folds. Photo Ken Bezilla

Next we brought the outer folds in to meet in the middle again, and repeated the mopping operation. Later we thought a sponge mop might have been a useful tool. We used more drying time to start to return things we had stored in a shed during Solarization Month.

Removing hoophouse solarizing plastic: second fold of edges to the middle. Photo Ken Bezilla

We repeated the folding until a simple folding in half made a sensible size for rolling, and ended up with a fat roll of plastic tied up with rope. We wrote on it to deter anyone who might think of using that plastic for any other purpose.

The last fold of the the hoophouse solarizing plastic, making it ready to roll once dried. The dried stems are from a buckwheat cover crop we covered with the plastic. Photo Ken Bezilla.

Disadvantages of Solarizing

I was sad to say goodbye to the hoophouse bell peppers as they were the best we’ve had in years. Usually we keep the peppers until October and do our winter crop planning so that the pepper area is the last planted in winter crops, but we made that sacrifice! For several years our peppers didn’t do well, as the salinity of our soil had got too high. We now do salt wash-downs in September and March. This year the peppers were spectacular! Big plants, huge peppers! Rather disappointing to have to pull them at the beginning of August.

Bullnose pepper in our hoophouse June 27. Photo Alexis Yamashita

Several days into the solarizing I realized with dismay that we had killed off all our zipper spiders and probably their egg cases. The spider corpses were still attached to the framework. Zipper spiders seem to be homebodies. Surely they could have found a way to leave? But mostly they do die at the end of summer, just not on open display. In recent years we have not had any of these spiders outdoors, but many in the hoophouse. They do good work consuming the insects they trap.

Zipper spider on the pepper plants in our hoophouse on September 10 a previous year.
Photo Pam Dawling
Zipper spider egg cases hanging from the hoophouse plastic.
Photo Wren Vile

One big disadvantage of our choice was that the work of bed prep and planting in there after de-solarizing was dreadful! We had hot sunny weather, and the allocation of each day’s prep work took 3 hours or more. By lunchtime it was 120F (49C) in there on many days. Exhausting work! But it didn’t seem worth putting the big shadecloth back in place as we normally remove it around September 20.

Hoophouse fall bed prep. Broadforking in plastic sandals is not recommended! Photo Ken Bezilla

Apart from the workers suffering the effects of the heat, the soil also dried out a lot faster, and we had to keep working (no rest!) to break up the big lumps of soil before they became bricks.

We prepped one bed and got ready to sow. We decided to use wire hoops and a 6’ (2m) roll of shadecloth like we do outdoors for lettuce in hot weather. That worked well, although the bed edges did dry out fast, maybe because the paths were still holding heat from the solarizing. So we had to handwater the bed edges daily for a week or so.

Spinach seedlings from pre-sprouted seed in the hoophouse in September.
Photo Pam Dawling

One of the first crops we sow is spinach, using seed pre-sprouted in the fridge for 6 days. No way would it have germinated in that hot hoophouse soil! On sowing day, the spinach seed showed little sign of sprouting, but we sowed, watered well, shaded it, and it came up great! The extra attention paid off. This spinach will feed us all winter until about March, as we just harvest leaves. By September 21, all the early crops in that bed had emerged (scallions, Bulls Blood beets, tatsoi, radishes as well as the spinach). We needed to remove the shadecloth from the bed once everything had emerged, so the seedlings didn’t get leggy. 12 hours of daylight isn’t so much.

The perennial weeds growing in under the baseboards did not die. Once we removed the plastic the wiregrass (Bermuda grass) raced across the edge bed and started colonizing the next bed. Fortunately juvenile wiregrass is relatively easy to pull up.

De-solarizing our hoophouse. Note the vigorous wiregrass along the south baseboard. Photo Ken Bezilla

Most years we grow summer cover crops in the hoophouse, thus keeping the soil-life active and adding organic matter. This summer offered no gain of organic matter, which I do regret.

Advantages of Solarizing

We have sowed an outdoor seedbed with things to transplant into the hoophouse in October when we have more beds prepared. Work is progressing well, although we’ve had to scramble some days to stay on track.  Because using transplants from outdoors is part of our usual plan, we did not have to make any changes to the beds after the first one, om account of high temperatures.

The advantages of solarizing will become apparent in the next 6 months. Two weeks after uncovering the soil we did find a tiny tomato seedling, but the seed could have been dropped from our clothes after the solarizing month, rather than being a survivor. It was interesting to see it.

For myself, I’m unsure if I’d want to do this again. The advantages are going to have to be huge – like no more nematodes. I’ll write more as the next year unfolds.

Book Review: Saved by Seeds, Embracing Diversity, Adaptation, and Resilience, by Chris Smith.

Front cover of Saved by Seeds by Chris Smith

Book Review: Saved by Seeds, Embracing Diversity, Adaptation, and Resilience.  Chris Smith. Chelsea Green.

“Seeds compress future potential and deep past into miniscule abundant objects” (Dr Courtney Fullilove.)

I always enjoy Chris Smith’s writing and speaking, ever since his first book The Whole Okra. This book includes his love affair with okra, as well as beans, tomatoes, and sorghum seed growing. Also here are six chapters exploring aspects of seed saving, seed sovereignty, preserving purity, encouraging diversity, adaptation and resilience and seed selection. For those drawn in to the seed saving community, the appendices provide details hard to find elsewhere.

Chris’s home in Asheville, NC is a 5-hour drive from the nearest coast and was thought to be a climate haven. A place that would be less impacted by climate change than many other places in the US.  But on 15 September 27, 2024, Hurricane Helene moved over Asheville and by some measures caused a 30,000-year flood. Many lives were lost as entire towns were swept away. Felled trees devastated the energy infrastructure, flood waters and landslides ruined water distribution, and cell services were unavailable for weeks in some areas.

We cannot avoid climate change and have reached the limits of adaptation to it. We urgently need to work on quick recovery and mitigation.

Utopian Seed Project logo

In 2018 Chris founded the Utopian Seed Project, a nonprofit organization dedicated to cultivating, researching, and celebrating resiliency in food and farming via crop diversity.

This is not a text book on growing seeds, although it has that information too. It’s an inspirational book on why and what if we challenge the current orthodoxy of heirloom preservation. Chris is neither advocating for heirloom preservation, nor advocating for hybrid seeds, either.

Heirlooms are not the David champion against Goliath hybrids, although Chris admits that publicly critiquing heirlooms is like picking a fight with everyone’s favorite granny. See the book for a comparison of seed savioring vs. seed saving. Don’t hold on to what was but seek what can be.

Seed strains can usefully and pleasantly evolve, with deliberate or accidental crosses, as has been happening over much of human history. The strict heirloom preservation movement is a more recent phenomenon. Chris started there, and moved to embrace diversity, adaptation, and resilience to find varieties adapted to his garden.

Slow adaptation doesn’t pay in this time of climate change. We need seeds that are highly adaptive and resilient (and therefore include more diversity). Back to “landraces”: local varieties of plants or animals that have distinctive characteristics born from development and adaptation over time to the local geographic region and that typically show greater genetic diversity than types subjected to formal breeding practices.

Heirlooms can be sirens, distracting us from what we actually need to seek –  varieties that are rare may be rare for a reason! Not everything is worth keeping!

Chris says “I’ve been deep in the seed world for over a decade, and from the start I’ve heard and read (and regurgitated) countless stories of the importance of heirlooms, while exploring diversity still feels fringe.”

There’s a concept in journalism called Hallin’s spheres, developed by Daniel Hallin, which describes how systems of status quo define the boundaries of acceptable discourse. I find the spheres to be a useful framework for thinking about our relationship with seeds.

  • The Sphere of Consensus generally maintains or protects the status quo and is collectively assumed to be true.
  • The Sphere of Legitimate Controversy includes areas of acceptable debate, but all remain “serious” topics.
  • The Sphere of Deviance includes ideas that are either invisible or dismissed. In mainstream circles, these are often considered unscientific, impractical, or purely ideological.

Ideas can move between one sphere and another. “Ideas in the sphere of deviance may be considered deviant just because they disrupt the status quo or current political regime . . .   At the time of writing, reporting has documented widespread edits to federal agency websites, including the USDA and EPA, where language related to climate change, diversity, and Indigenous communities has been flagged, removed, or replaced. I think it’s time to be deviant and disruptive.”

In Dr. Bennett’s book Plant Genetic Resources, she wrote: “ I see no special advantage in conservation in the form of seed apart from the very eminent one of convenience, and I think that attempts to find other merits in the “steady state” which seed storage represents, seem to come dangerously near to adopting museum concepts.”

“A freezer full of seeds is the literal version of putting all your eggs in one basket.”

“Bennett and others advocated for seeds to be grown and saved by communities in order to maintain the people-seed connection so that the seeds could continue to adapt and evolve.”

We need in situ preservation for ongoing adaptive change. The world of community-centered plant breeding ecosystems points to a vision of a better world.

“Early American plant collecting and farmer adaptation is often romanticized, but American agriculture was built on stolen land, largely by stolen people, and in some cases, stolen seeds.”

The Emergence Network

“The Emergence Network asks, “What if the way we respond to the crisis is part of the crisis?” One of the responses to the impact of the green revolution on crop diversity has been to preserve crop diversity. But this style of preservation feels similar to billionaire bunkers or an escape plan to Mars. We can and should preserve seeds, but the systems driving their loss are still very much in place.”

“The 2017 Census of Agriculture reported that 95 percent of US farm producers are white, while a 2018 National Agricultural Workers Survey reported that 83 percent of all farmer workers are Hispanic.”

As well as How-to, the chapters cover the history of seeds in the US, botanical and technical info to help seed-savers succeed, examples of seed-saving for some main crops, an overview of diversity, adaptation and resilience applied to seeds, a step-by-step sequence of exploring seed diversity, and more about genetic diversity, including using ultracrosses.

Here you will find the information you need to prevent accidental cross-pollination, save seeds, dry them and grow them next year. The science you need is there. The explanations are clear and amusing (grow enough of your grandma’s rare bean seeds so you can give some away and dilute the risk of her haunting you).

This book doesn’t shy away from complicated things such as mutations and sports, random genetic changes that occur unbidden and you may not even notice. If you do, you may form an opinion: is this a Good Thing, a Bad Thing or an Interesting Thing? Chromosomes carry genetic information, usually in pairs. Brassica oleracea has 9 pairs, Brassica rapa has 10 pairs. Usually if a B rapa and B oleracea cross the result will not be stable.  A mule is a cross between a donkey and a horse and cannot produce any offspring of its own. Occasionally in the plant world, a new tetraploid species (with two sets of paired chromosomes) forms and fertility is restored.

This book explains many details of genetic and epigenetic changes as well as inherited seed biomes and the mysteries of non-neuron-based intelligence. Don’t let these complex ideas deter you. You will marvel at our world after reading this.

Chris Smith, author of Saved by Seeds

Chris says “I am quite a pragmatic (non-woo-woo) type of person, but. . .” I’m similar. Plant communication is strange and amazing, challenging to what we were raised to believe. Chris asks “What is possible if we approach seed saving and plant breeding as a partnership between people and plants?” This could perhaps lead to the development of more resilient crops, very much needed in this time of climate chaos.

“We need genetic diversity at the variety level, especially for adaptive systems. Inbred heirlooms and uniform hybrids aren’t going to cut it.” There is a lot of value in diversity. Regeneratively-Grown Climate Blend whole wheat flour is a blend of unique wheat varieties grown using regenerative practices that improve soil health. Climate Blend showed no drop in yield in the 2021 heat dome over the Pacific NW. Other growers reported a 40% drop. “If we have a chaotic climate, our strategy is to have genetic chaos in the field,”

This kind of diversity is the same as the Landrace concept in indigenous farming: diverse populations that always succeed in growing a crop, depending on the conditions. “The term landrace is used in many contexts but generally it describes domesticated crop populations that have evolved intergenerationally (that is, over long periods) through traditional farming practices and natural selection in specific local environments.”

Front cover of The Whole Okra by Chris Smith

The book includes a description of Chris’s multi-year okra trials, which you can read more about in The Whole Okra.

You can also read in this book about Ultracross collards, Ultracross okra; the development of a Purple Peach tomato with delicious Cherokee Purple flavor; the okra progeny of Puerto Rico Everblush (a round, velvety pod with red blushing and tasty flavor) and Aunt Hettie’s red okra (a robust, chunky okra pod with great flavor and high productivity) and more. Chris is breeding for resistance, flavor and more. Diverse seeds create a breeding ecosystem that can quickly evolve, adapt to local conditions, and bring resiliency.

“We must do everything possible to rapidly mitigate our collective human impact on the climate. If we don’t, it’s game over for life as we know it.”

Community-based seed keeping has declined, and with that we have lost a traditional way of advancing seed genetic diversity. It’s time to reestablish seed-keeping as a community activity: everyone a seed saver instead of a handful of seed saviors; infinite seed options instead of a limited number of “perfect” varieties. Chris reports that he resisted being called a plant breeder for a long time because of the term’s strong association with what he perceived as elitist corporate and academic systems. He came to realize that it’s a term that seed communities should reclaim. “The human history of plant breeding is long and vibrant; its narrowing to a pursuit of profit and purity is a recent phenomenon.” Chris recommends Adam Alexander’s book The Accidental Seed Heroes, which I also enjoyed (and reviewed).

During the rise of Monsanto and genetic modification, independent plant breeders and researchers began discussing how the ideas behind open-source software could be applied to seeds. The idea of protecting seed freedoms with open-source concepts led to the formation of the Open Source Seed Initiative (OSSI), which was officially established in 2012. They named four seed freedoms:

  1. The freedom to save or grow seed for replanting or for any other purpose.
  2. The freedom to share, trade, or sell seed to others.
  3. The freedom to trial and study seed and to share or publish information about it.
  4. The freedom to select or adapt the seed, make crosses with it, or use it to breed new lines and varieties.

To protect these freedoms, OSSI created a system for plant breeders to register their varieties with OSSI. When seeds registered with OSSI are shared or sold, the OSSI pledge goes along with them. No one can claim ownership in order to profit from a cultivar and prevent others developing it.

An issue has arisen of indigenous seeds used for private profit in a mostly white-led seed industry. If your beliefs include recognizing seeds as ancestors, or as beings embedded within specific cultural and spiritual lineages, then the idea of seeds as the common heritage of all humankind can be deeply inappropriate. This debate led to the Culturally-Informed Community Seeds Pledge, for seeds from plants that have retained ancestral, traditional, or cultural relationships with specific communities and places of origin.

The pledge states, “I respect the natural rights of seeds and their people by producing CICS-Pledged seeds under the pledge’s culturally-informed practices and code of ethics.” People receiving CICS-Pledged seeds are asked to follow the same guidelines.

Seed Savers Exchange (SSE) identified all the varieties they held that had a tribal affiliation. They then asked First Nations community members if they were okay with their seeds being distributed to non-tribal people. All but one respondent said no, they were not okay with it. So SSE took those seeds out of general circulation and reserved them for Indigenous communities.

Appendix A is a US Timeline of the Biological and Legal Enclosure of Seeds from 1790 to 2018. Until 1924, the US government ran a free seed distribution program, leading to profit-based seed companies. In 1889 The US commissioner of patents had ruled that it would be “unreasonable and impossible” to patent “the trees of the forest and the plants of the earth.” In 2018 The United Nations adopted the Declaration on the Rights of Peasants and Other People Working in Rural Areas (UNDROP), which recognized the rights of peasants to maintain, control, protect, develop, save, use, exchange and sell their own farm-saved seeds.

Appendix B provides population sizes and isolation distances for common vegetable crops.

Appendix C lists crop types and promiscuity

Appendix D lists seed companies selling Ultracross seed and other genepool collections.

The 8-page Glossary, a bibliography, an index and chapter notes round out the offerings in this remarkable book.

Thoughtful, inspiring, and of practical help, this is a book to treasure.

Seeds in glass jars. Best to label seeds inside and outside the jar. Photo Broken Banjo

Success with Growing Lettuce in Winter

 

Ezrilla, a favorite cold-hardy lettuce.
Photo Wren Vile

Lettuce Seed Inventory and Ordering in September

We’re doing a seed inventory and ordering seeds of winter and early spring lettuce varieties, to get us through to the main lettuce growing season starting in early March. By then we will have received our big seed order for the year.

I’ve updated our Lettuce Varieties List, after perusing catalogs and choosing a few promising varieties new to us.

We’ve decided not to grow romaine lettuces in our hoophouse this winter (and maybe never again), due to finding too many frozen or at least cold damaged stems last winter. We already gave up growing bibbs in our hoophouse some years ago (tip burn and restricted airflow encouraging fungal diseases.). So we’re left with leaf lettuces. We particularly like the Multileaf types, also variously known as One-Cut, Eazyleaf, Salanova, or Cut and Come Again lettuce.

Red Hawk Farm hoophouse planted wall to wall with multileaf lettuces.
Photo Pam Dawling

These produce “heads” composed entirely of small and medium-sized leaves – the outer leaves do not grow very big. They are bred for uniformly small leaves, with more texture, loft and flavor than baby mixes and faster harvesting. Transplanted 6″–8″ (15-20 cm) apart they produce 40% more than baby leaf mixes. (We transplant at 10″-12″ (25-30 cm), to improve airflow, so our production might not be as much as 40% more than baby leaf mixes.)

The full-size plant can be harvested as a head, providing a collection of bite-sized leaves.  But you get higher yields, particularly in winter, if you cut just one side of the plant (or the outer leaves) and let the plant regrow for future harvests. Growing multileaf heads takes 55 days in spring weather, compared to 30 days for baby lettuce.

Lettuce with sclerotinia drop.
Photo Pam Dawling

One of our winter lettuce challenges is sclerotinia lettuce drop, a fungal disease we call Solstice Slime. The Missouri Integrated Pest Management site linked here has lots of excellent photos and info on using an IPM approach to tackling this disease.

https://Image of red and green lettuces including some with Sclerotinia Lettuce Drop. <ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2016/2/recovered/index.cfm>

Our instructions to ourselves say: “Sow 10 winter varieties, 2′ of each. We want to include Multileaf types. Best slime resistance: Buckley, Ezrilla, Hampton, Brentwood, Merlot, Oscarde, Panisse, Red Tinged Winter, Revolution, Rhone, Tango. Next best: Red Salad Bowl, Salad Bowl. (NO: Hyper Red Wave, Outredgeous, Romaines or Bibbs)” Of our eleven favorite slime-resistant lettuces, eight of them are currently available and in-stock from Johnny’s, High Mowing, or Fedco.

Rhone lettuce.
Photo High Mowing Seeds

Two varieties on our wish list seem to be discontinued now: High Mowing is out of Buckley and Brentwood and won’t be restocking.  They recommend Rhone as a substitute for Brentwood (we grew that one last winter and liked it a lot).  They recommend a new Eazyleaf variety called Ezflor as a sub for Buckley, and we hope to try that.

I have notes from last year to try Frisygo, Rubygo, Ezpark from Johnny’s.

Merlox Red Oakleaf lettuce (resistant to Sclerotinia Lettuce Drop) from Fedco

Merlox Red Oakleaf (resistant to sclerotinia) from Fedco sounds very promising – we hope to try that. It’s not a multileaf type, but any winter-hardy lettuce resistant to sclerotinia, especially a red one, is worth trying.

We’re ordering more Oscarde and Red Tinged Winter seed now in case there’s none available next year. We may have enough, but don’t want to take big risks. Red Tinged Winter is a particularly productive and beautiful variety.

In 2026, we had bad germination on everything except Salad Bowl and Oscarde in our 9/15 sowing. I think this was due to inadequate nursery seedbed care. We’ll try to do better this year.

Lettuce Log

We are getting to the end of sowing lettuces for growing outdoors this year (it’s early September). Those lettuces will be harvested in the second half of November.

Click the + button to enlarge to readable size!

I’ve just updated my Lettuce Log, which is a work in progress, aiming to provide transplants for continuous lettuce year round for up to a hundred people. We tweaked some of the sowing and transplanting dates in hopes of a more even supply. Of course, every year is different, and all are unpredictable. Part of my strategy for resilience is to sow four different lettuce varieties each time, hoping several will thrive. It’s worked out very well this year. We had a slight shortage in August. Some bolted and we got no food from those ones.

As you can see from the log, the intervals between sowing dates get smaller as the year progresses, starting with 14 day intervals in January and February, decreasing rapidly in March and April to land at 8 days for early May, then 7 days and 6 days until mid-June when we start sowing every 5 days. In mid-August we sow every 4 days, then 3. We no longer grow winter lettuce in our coldframe (as the hoophouse provides a much better environment), so we can take a break from lettuce sowing for the first half of September. In the second half of September we sow for transplanting in the hoophouse and the greenhouse in late October.

Looking next at the column of transplanting dates and the column just before it (Days to transplant from sowing), you can see the length of time it takes a lettuce seedling to grow to transplanting size decreases from 51 days in January/February to mid-20s in May, then 20 or below right through to the end of August. You might well ask why we don’t just start sowing later in January, or even wait till February, and that would be a reasonable question. Probably the later-sown ones would catch up! We’re just enthusiastic to get sowing!

The number of days between transplanting one sowing and the next also decreases from 10 days at the beginning of the year down to 4 days in September. September plantings will each take longer than the preceding one to grow to harvest size.

The Harvest Start and Harvest Finish columns have the least reliable data. I hope to pay more attention to this part in 2027! My general goal is to harvest at least 100 good lettuces (from a planting of 120) every week from late April to the end of November.

The columns to the right include details about when we need to shade the transplants, when we put ice cubes on top of the seedbed, and when we watch out for cutworms. Those are topics for a different time of year.

I wrote about our late summer lettuce transition in August 2025, and about winter lettuce in December 2022. Also about Lettuce All year in a Changing Climate in September 2021. I wrote about our Fall Lettuce Transition in my September 2022 post Preparing your Hoophouse for Fall and Winter.

If you want to start from scratch figuring out sowing and transplanting dates for a continuous lettuce supply in your climate see this post, which includes my slideshow Lettuce Year Round and our graph of succession planting dates.

Unusual Crop for September – Less Common Greens

Less Common Greens – Celtuce, Jewels of Opar, Chrysanthemum Greens, Eat-All Greens

In my monthly series on unusual crops,  I wrote about Peanuts in May

In June I wrote about Bug-Resistant Summer Squash Substitutes

In July I wrote about Squash Blossoms and Other Edible Flowers

In August I wrote about Kohlrabi

This month, I’m writing about unusual greens for late fall and winter meals.

Spring Tower celtuce from Johnny’s Selected Seeds

Celtuce, Stem lettuce

Celtuce is the same crop family as regular lettuce. The difference is that it is bred to grow thick, succulent stalks, and that is the part eaten, raw or lightly steamed or stir-fried. It can also be pickled, or used as a gluten-free pasta substitute. Some people say the flavor of the stem is a crisp, nutty cross between romaine, celery and cucumber.

Celtuce photo from Red Wagon Farm, Boulder, Colorado

The leaves are eaten by people who like slightly bitter salad vegetables such as radicchio. Young leaves are edible about 5 weeks after planting and the stems are ready when about 12” (30 cm) tall, or shorter if you prefer. Trim and peel the stems, then chop however you like, rounds or diagonally-cut chunks. Celtuce goes well added late into miso or egg drop soup, or with tofu.

Purple Sword celtuce

Celtuce Varieties

As an Asian vegetable, Celtuce is also known as Aa choy. True Leaf Market (Kitazawa Seeds) has a Purple Sword variety. Green celtuce varieties are more widely available, such as Spring Tower from Johnny’s. I was entertained to discover that the fast-maturing spring lettuce Cracoviensis that I grew when I first moved to Virginia has since been classified as a type of celtuce. The killing temperature of outdoor unprotected celtuce is 20°F (-7°C). It bolts readily as spring starts to warm, but the leaves are not bitter and the stem is the prize!

Cracoviensis lettuce, or “red celtuce”
Credit Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Sowing and transplanting celtuce

Sow seed 1/8″ (3 mm) deep, about 1/4″ (6 mm) apart a few weeks before transplanting outdoors. For a continuous supply, sow every 2-3 weeks. Shade flats if necessary to keep the soil surface below 75°F (24°C) until germination. Transplant 8″-12″ (20-30 cm) apart in rows 12″-18″ (30-45 cm) apart.

Short term celtuce storage

Celtuce stems will keep for 3 weeks or so in a ziplock bag in a refrigerator vegetable drawer.

Jewels of Opar (Talinum paniculatum)

Jewels of Opar photo from Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Aka fameflower, this is a heat-loving plant that can provide salad leaves in hot weather, and delicate pink flowers on spindly stems (nice filler for flower arrangements) followed by shiny ruby-red or orange-bronze seed pods, which are also useful in floral displays. Unlike celtuce, this is for those in hot climates (or try it in summer in mid-latitudes where lettuce is hard to keep growing in summer.) It grows 1’-3’ tall (30-90 cm) and as much as 2’-3’ (60-90 cm) wide. It doesn’t seem to suffer if grown thickly in the row. It forms dense mounds of succulent leaves (it’s related to purslane). The slightly succulent oval leaves make good salads or sandwich fillers. They are a nice size too: up to 4” x 2” (10 cm x 5 cm).

Jewels of Opar is a native plant and there are also cultivars such as Kingwood Gold and Limon valued by florists. It grows as a perennial in zones 8-10. It does self sow but not in a problematic way in zone 7. The evening-opening flowers attract bees and other polllinators.

Chrysanthemum Greens aka shungiku or crown daisy (Glebionis coronaria)

September-sown shungiku (chrysanthemum greens) in January.
Photo Pam Dawling

This Asian green has a distinctive flavor. It really is a chrysanthemum, not a lettuce, and not a brassica as most Asian greens are. Formerly called Chrysanthemum coronarium, Ismelia coronaria, Xanthophthalmum coronarium, or Pinardia coronaria, it also known as “garland chrysanthemum” or “chop suey greens” in English. It is known as “Kikuna” in western Japan, “tong hao” in Chinese, ssukgat in Korean and cải cúc or tần ô in Vietnamese.

 Most chrysanthemums are perennial with poisonous leaves, but shungiku is an edible annual.

The flavor of the leaves was not at all popular with our crowd. I have written about our trial of this in our winter hoophouse to attract aphid predators in early spring. (We sowed in September, but our winter was too cold for them.) There are various colors of flowers. The flowers on the ones we grew were solid yellow, not banded with other colors. We bought seed from Small House Farm. Bevin Cohen says it does attract bees, butterflies and predatory insects, and would probably do well in the winter hoophouse, and could be provoked into bolting early in the spring.

Shungiku chrysanthemum greens.
Photo Small House Farm

Rotations including unusual greens

Having non-brassica greens is a help with crop rotations.

A maximum of 1 year in 4 for brassicas is ideal to avoid disease and pest buildup. When possible, plant one year’s brassicas at some distance from the previous year’s, rather than in adjacent plots. The spread of disease can be reduced by avoiding walking through wet crops and by controlling weeds in the brassica family, such as rock cress, pepperweed, garlic mustard, and wild rocket.

Timing for fall crops 

Planting dates for fall crops can be exacting because the cooling weather slows down the plants’ growth, and a day or two delay in sowing date can mean a week or two delay in harvest date.

The number of days to harvest given in seed catalogs is based on spring conditions – plants grow faster in warmer temperatures. To determine when to sow for fall plantings, start with your desired harvest date, noting when would be too late! Consult https://weatherspark.com to estimate when it will get too cold in your location.

Next subtract the number of days from seeding to transplant, plus the number of days from transplanting to harvest for that crop (given in the catalog description), plus the length of your ideal harvest period and another 14 days for the slowing rate of plant growth in fall compared to spring.

 Some Eat-All Greens in early November. Photo Lori Katz

Eat-All Greens: Fall Cooking Greens

 Eat-All Greens were invented by Carol Deppe, who explains them in her book The Tao of Vegetable Gardening . Carol grows and breeds vegetables in Corvallis, OR, in the Pacific NW, in a different climate zone from my home in central Virginia. Carol grows Eat-All Greens by broadcasting seed of one of her carefully chosen crops in a small patch. When it reaches 12″ tall, she cuts the top 9″ off for cooking, leaving the tough-stemmed lower part, perhaps for a second cut, or to return to the soil.

I decided to modify her idea for Virginia. Fall was a promising time of year for us to try this idea, as our spring planted greens only have a short season before they bolt. And summer is too hot, winter too cold. . . We sowed 9/16, got our first harvest on 10/21, 35 days after sowing, our second on 10/28 and our third on 11/3. Unlike Carol, we sowed our greens in rows side by side, enabling us to hoe the weeds. I doubt Carol has weeds.

You can read which greens we grew and which did best in this series of three posts:

Virginian Eat-All Greens

Sowed 9/15, harvested 10/21, 10/28, 11/3

Ate more Eat-All Greens

By late December the greens were past their best. I seem not to have recorded harvests between 11/3 and 12/10, but I know there were some. We made a last harvest on 12/10, pulling the roots of the radishes and turnips we had in the mix. The daikons, Crimson Giant and White Icicle radishes did well.

Eat-All Greens part 3

We had a low temperature of 6F on January 5th that winter. Not much was left alive. Always enthusiastic to keep updating my list of cold-hardy winter vegetable crops, I took my notebook and walked the rows a few days later. Here’s a (short) list of the survivors:

Best were Morris Heading collards. Also still showing some life were Purple Top White Globe turnips, Ortolani Market Grower arugula and some (not all) of the Hanover kale (which is after all, a Siberian spring kale, not recommended for over-winter growing). I wrote up our whole Eat-All Greens experience for the January 2016 issue of Growing for Market magazine

Eat-All Greens rows with frost in December.
Photo Bridget Aleshire

I developed clear ideas of what would I do different if we do this again. No chards, no beets, no kohlrabi. Thinner seed sowing, straighter rows (easier hoeing). Try some other Asian greens? Buy some of the specific varieties that Carol Deppe recommends. Maybe sow a week earlier. And a smaller patch! It’s fun!

Book Review: Sky Blue Trades, by Chip Planck

Front cover of Sky Blue Trades by Chip Planck

Book Review: Sky Blue Trades, by Chip Planck. Independently published, February 2026, 216 pages, ISBN 9798248250714.

Chip Planck and his wife Susan Planck farmed Wheatland Vegetable Farms in Northern Virginia from 1973-2010. This very engaging book is an interplanted field of essays, anecdotes and poetry. It’s a good “growing season read” because it is composed of short chapters that can be read when you have a few minutes. You will feel refreshed with inspiring food for thought, sometimes entertaining, sometimes sobering, about the culture and economics of farming.

There are sections on money, customers, workers, politics, the neighborhood, and, bravely, their low points. Poetry by Chip and a summation by Susan round out the book.

Chip tells how in 1973, a group land purchase of 400 acres 50 miles NW of Washington DC bought him and Susan a 60 acre share of that land, with a house in poor repair and the treasure of learning from Tony and Hiu Newcomb of Potomac Vegetable Farms, who also co-signed their loans. After 5 years as junior partners to Hiu and Tony, they began their own Wheatland Vegetable Farms, and marketed initially at roadside stands, but found insufficient traffic. They switched to driving in every week to 10-15 farmers markets in DC and the suburbs, and ran the markets from 1979-2010, growing 20 acres of vegetables. Clearly they needed a good supply of workers to pick and sell all that food.

Susan and Chip were successful full-time vegetable farmers for 37 years, without going to ag college, and without outside jobs or government payments. Their business covered retirement funds as well as farm expenses and daily living. They worked hard, read a lot about farming and picked up every tip they could from their mentors.

They paid wages, saved for retirement, planted enough crops, worked enough markets. And didn’t take off-farm jobs. In dollars per hour, the wages to first year workers were close to the Virginia minimum wage. Wages went up by $1/hr for second year workers, and another dollar for third year workers. Extra was paid before and after the academic vacations, and to those who stayed to the end of their contract. Returning workers were about one third of the crew. Yes, they kept precise time sheets, paid employer’s share of Medicaid and taxes. It was important to the Plancks to provide their workers’ contributions to retirement. They also provided spartan housing and plenty of produce. They are not owners who enjoy working endless hours in isolation.

They tracked their earnings in five-year rolling averages, to allow for the widely changing seasons. Their peak years were 2001-2005, after 20 years of learning, and before starting to cut back on acreage and markets as part of their gradual retirement plan. In their last 4 years their net earnings were higher because they had dropped their weakest markets and hired fewer workers.

The year was mentally divided into three parts: 7 months frost-free of “overtime weeks” (7 days of 10 hours each), 2 months of “full-time weeks” (7 days of 6 hours), and 3 months of part-time work (7 days of 3 hours). That totals 2750 hours a year, compared to a standard work year of 2000 hours.

Farming occupies a humble economic sector. In their first five years, the Plancks each made $1.85/hour, compared to $20/hour during the peak fat years. At one point they reached the top 10%, and then the top 4% of farms as far as earnings went. Lots of labor and smart decisions produced lots of earnings. Not quite as good as it sounds maybe, as 50% of farms have sales of $10,000 or less. Many are part-time.

Susan and Chip Planck at one of Wheatland Vegetable Farms markets

The overall picture is that they made enough to raise and educate a family, stay healthy, pay off a mortgage, and save for retirement. Working at home is nice except when you can’t get away. Working outdoors is refreshing except when it’s awful. Farming can leave you feeling well-used or used-up. You might feel like a glorified amateur or a thwarted specialist. But -ah- you can choose and enjoy your work.

The book also includes amusing insightful sections, such as the one on “conference brain-death”, the unforeseen side-effects of what farmers hope will be an energizing break: being denied true rest.

The Management Made Easy chapter includes Wheatland Vegetable Farms Fourteen Principles of Effective Worker Management. Useful stuff. Hiring workers increases production, income and happiness. Hiring family members might not, because you will be living with them at day’s end, and may hear about your poor decisions and grumpy behavior over dinner.

Refusing to hire workers because you can work faster than them is like a teacher complaining that students don’t know anything. Why are you teaching? The net return from the workers is the important bit, not who is fastest. It’s the volume of beans picked that generates the income.

One person alone cannot generate enough picked beans to raise a family. Thoreau was subsidized by Emerson paying for his hut. Don’t wait to get big before hiring workers. Hiring them will enable your farm to expand.

Do forewarn new workers of the realities of the job. Wheatland provided applicants with a 10-page description of the farm and the Plancks’ approaches to work and the reasons for the growing choices they made. They updated it each year. Unlikely fits selected themselves out. This saved hours of meeting time.

Every new task needs to be shown and then checked three times, starting half an hour into the job. Pull out rejects from the picking basket and point out missed crop that should have been picked. Don’t let people start a task until they’ve watched and listened. (Chip says to handcuff the crew until you finish the explanation.) Start with the statement that any mistakes you are warning them about are ones you have made yourselves. Quality control is a continuous job. This year, this week won’t be exactly the same as the last one.

Working with your crew gives the best collective result. People working in small groups of mixed abilities raises the overall result. Assign the people to a group. Choose the best workers for the specialized crops. Keep things flowing. Avoid letting crews grind to a complete halt. Move some of them on to another task, allocate clean up.

Experience of school life does not teach personal efficiency or co-operative work skills. Don’t expect college kids to have developed such skills. Farm workers need to understand picking and selling, as one skill informs the other. The farmer has to let go enough for workers to be sloppy and inattentive at first. The market customers will give the workers feedback. You can give them meticulous instructions and build trust.

Pay them, reward them, retain them, join them in fun as well as work. You will be building a network of future farmers – 25 workers out of 300 Wheatland workers went on to farm commercially. What makes a good worker? A good employer.

Workers can form a tribe, a small community. They talk about work over their dinners. This spreads the norms, practices of the farm and gives them a chance to compare with other farms any of them have worked at.

At Wheatland, there were no financial secrets. The Plancks told the workers what they made and spent on the farm and trusted them to take produce to market, sell it and bring the money home.

Many farmers try to keep the workforce to a minimum, but Wheatland chose the other path. There’s a chapter on why it’s valuable to have some less-efficient workers and some less-productive acres, so long as those workers and acres generate a net return. The workers enjoy having others around, and when the going is hard, they appreciate having other people to share the difficulties, or at least get the picking done faster and get in out of the rain. Over 25 years, evidence mounted that more labor could earn the farm more money. During their first 5 years, Chip and Susan kept 16 cents of every dollar in sales. Labor was 30% of total costs. Later the margin grew to 34 cents of every dollar earned and labor was 49% of total costs. Other costs shrank to less significance compared to labor.

 

Chip and Susan were interviewed for the Growing for Market podcast. You can listen to it here.

In their last 4 years of farming, 2006-2010, they cut back a lot on acres cultivated and markets served. Labor decreased to 34% of costs. Work became more efficient but was insufficient for the owners to live off. They started to draw Social Security and retirement savings, which was all part of their plan.

If the customers wanted small tomatoes, pinks, unusual types, they did their best to meet their requests. That took a lot of labor. Note, however, that growing 12 types of tomatoes is all “growing tomatoes” – the same skill set.

How many workers are too many? Life is a perpetual trade-off between favoring and cultivating skill and efficiency on the one hand, and encouraging maximum participation and learning on the other hand. Each season, the 10-20 workers started out trying all tasks. Group cohesion makes for better results than sub-dividing, leaving only all the slowest to pick tomatoes, where none of them would improve. Getting the job done correctly and quickly is vital to success. In some situations, giving a task to the best suited pays off, but never assume.

In the early 1990s, Loudoun County adopted a hamlet ordinance, a kind of cluster housing idea. Each rural building lot had to be big enough to include its own water and sewage facilities, be set back from the road and be part of a clustered arrangement that included some common open space and left some surrounding land undeveloped under the residents’ control.

In 2002, they started to develop a hamlet, with a contractor digging perc-test pits. After this very speedy start, it took 15 years before the first house and lot were sold. Houses of modest square-footage, built for maximum solar gain, from high quality materials, oriented to encourage neighborliness, with 96% of the farmland in a conservation easement preventing more housing being built there. There are two large “Conservancy” lots owned by farmers and 7 householders on small building lots. Rural growth without sprawl, or much loss of farmland.

In the US, consumers were responsible for starting producer-only farmers’ markets. Farmers answered the demand, bringing produce close to where large numbers of people shopped, and a new movement flourished. This worked better than roadside stands (not enough customers), dealing with wholesalers (inflexible demands, late payments) and hobby farmers (selling small volumes unreliably).

Farmers’ markets had low entry barriers (a patch, a truck, a card table, some produce) and no-selling-before-the-bell rules (self-interested cooperation). Selfish unregulated behavior (the tragedy of the commons) was avoided.

The section telling three serious Low Points of life on the farm is presented as cautionary tales and lessons learned. Farmers should not take risks with machinery, should fess up, pay up, and know when to give up on trying to fix broken machines. Appreciate your local rescue squad. Don’t blame fate for effects of your errors, or your inattention. Follow standard safety procedures. Only do dangerous work with someone else nearby, appreciating your local community. Learn from your mistakes. Death will happen. Have a plan for caring for your dead, burying them, gathering friends, mourning them, celebrating their life, keeping mementos, including some of their writing, art or craft, and arranging for farm life to continue while you are doing these things.

Chip’s poems are easy to read, encapsulating the wisdom and wonder of farming. Not many books include an ode to groundhogs, grasshoppers, crickets, mice and slugs! These poems are good to read when you have only two minutes and need a pick-me-up.

Oh, the book has no index! Sad omission, as I’m sure others will want to read parts more than once.

There’s an appendix for busy readers, by Susan. History, methods used on their farm to replenish the soil, include cover crops and hay mulch, sow and transplant, manage pests including weeds, insects, diseases (baking soda works as well as two commercial fungicides for hay-mulched musk melons, plastic mulch prevents splash-back fungal problems). They bought only used equipment, including several tractors and a bean picking machine. The buildings included their house, a large bank barn (worker housing, equipment storage and chickens).

They added hoop houses, a workshop, a worker kitchen, a seasonal bath house, a greenhouse. They built crates and pallets, developed a fast system for filling flats with medium. They used a scale to weigh filled flats and determine if they held enough water (a method for new people until they got the hang of what the correct weight felt like.) Seven foot deer fencing around their 60 acres became essential once their neighbors at Potomac Vegetable Farms had fenced their 400 acres.

Mulch is valuable stuff. On 20 or 25 acres, the Planks roll out 5”-6” of low-grade hay from 500-700 pound round bales, paying $10-$12 each. This saves a lot of cultivation and adds organic matter to the soil, while storing rain and preventing run-off erosion. There are more advantages listed.

After trying many crops, they eliminated peas, snap peas, potatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, celery, kale, collards, leeks, fennel, sweet potatoes, rhubarb, strawberries and raspberries. They focused on multiple successions and multiple varieties of the crops that did best for them and that customers wanted. They chose good-flavored varieties.

They settled on a uniform price per pound for squash, cukes, eggplants and onions, to make check out easier. Their lettuce was entirely Batavian Summer Crisp types that do well in spring, summer and fall, entirely grown from transplants germinated in the basement. The transplants were popped into plastic mulched beds, hooped and covered until saleable, then cut 2” above the ground for two weeks of regrowth. The cut leaves were washed, mixed and bagged. Direct-seeded greens were sown in mid-August, again in mid-September, in broadcast patches.

Work shifts were 8-12, 2-6, or when very hot, 8-12 and 3-7 or 7-11 and 3-7. Each worker (not Susan and Chip) had one day off per week (staggered and excluding market days of Friday and Saturday). Everyone went to market two days a week. They paid their middle and high school children at worker rates.

In retirement, Chip and Susan have 1/10 acre vegetables on landscape fabric. And they have written this book, Sky Blue Trades.  $13

Successful Okra Harvesting and Beyond

 

Cow Horn okra pods. Photo Bridget Aleshire

This August, our okra has been doing really well. We planted 3 beds rather than our usual one or two, and the harvest was piling up in our walk-in cooler so much that we cut down one of the beds!

Okra does not like to be chilled! We need to deal with the American tendency to store almost everything in the fridge. Chilling injury of okra causes dark damp spots on the pods, which lead to pitting and slimy breakdown.

Okra can be stored at 45°F–50°F (14°C–15°C) in unperforated plastic bags for up to 15 days. This compares favorably with only 2 days without a bag or 7 days in a perforated bag. The plastic bags keep the humidity high.

Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus), a tropical annual in the mallow family, is widely adapted where the frost-free season is long enough. Those in cold climates should choose fast-maturing varieties and transplant into black plastic. In areas with cold nights, okra can only be grown in a hoop-house. Those in hot climates will need to deal with the exuberant growth in midsummer. Okra is heat and drought tolerant and has few serious pests or diseases.

I have written a few posts on okra in recent years.

Okra seedlings in Winstrip 50-cell trays.
Photo Pam Dawling

Okra Planting Time 5/11/22

Caring for your Okra Crop 7/13/22. Includes info on seed-saving.

Okra Varieties and Harvest in Sweet Corn, Potatoes and Okra7/17/19 – planting mistakes too!

Front cover of The Whole Okra by Chris Smith

A review of Chris Smith’s wonderful book The Whole Okra 4/16/19

Southern Exposure Seed Exchange has an Okra Growing Guide.

This post will fill some gaps.

Succession Planting and Renovating Okra Plants

Generally only one planting of okra is made each year, although it is possible to sow in spring and fall in hot climates, using a fast-maturing variety for the later sowing. Or sow only in the summer for a fall crop, and don’t fight cold spring soil temperatures.

Summer okra pruning. Alabama Cooperative Extension Service

In hot climates, okra plants benefit from being rejuvenated in the middle of the summer, by cutting them back (with a machete, or tree loppers) to 6” (15 cm) stubs after the first heavy harvest (perhaps in the fifth week of harvesting) and after market prices start to decline. For large areas, use a tractor mower.

The plants will produce again in the fall, when prices have risen again, and fall yields can be higher than spring crops. Side-dressing at this stage can also boost production. As well as revitalizing the productivity, this process keeps the plants at a manageable height.

Alternatively, to avoid losing all your crop at once, lop progressively along the row, perhaps cutting 5% of the plants each day, starting after they reach shoulder height. Other growers tell of cutting back plants to a height of 4’ (1.2 m), which causes the plant to branch more.

Okra Yield and Harvest

3-9 days after flowering, pods will be mature (it takes 40 days from flowering to mature seed).

For maximum yields it is important to harvest at least every second day. If pods are missed, they will mature and limit the future flowering and therefore the yield. Average yields are about 3–4 tons/acre (6.8–9 t/ha) on bare ground in the South. Yields on black plastic are considerably higher.

For smaller plantings, expect 50–100 lb/100′ (7.6–15 kg/10 m). We grow 90′ (27 m) for 100 people, which provides enough for some pickling too.

Carmine Splendor okra plant.
Photo Pam Dawling

We harvest six days a week, using pruners, or a small serrated knife. The stems are quite tough. Some people find their skin is irritated by the spiny leaves and like to wear long sleeves when harvesting. We cut Cow Horn at 5” (13 cm) or bigger. Some years we have attached a piece of card to special pruners for the job, showing the size to cut. Do not make assumptions about toughness without testing with a thumbnail, or snapping off the tip. We’ve also been surprised to find it necessary to show new people the difference between a rounded “empty” pointed flower bud, and an angular firm pod.

Our harvest starts in mid-July and runs until frost, a period of 12 weeks or so. At the end of the season, we find we need to dig out the massive trunks and consign them to a spot on the edge of the woods that we call “The End of the World.”

Pickled Okra 

Pickled okra, garlic scapes, beets, kale.
Photo by Bridget Aleshire

Okra is very tasty pickled, a good choice if you have high yields and a demand for off-season value-added products.

I found a recipe for shelf-stable pickled okra from Lana’s Cooking. I do think shelf-stable canned pickles, that don’t need refrigeration, are the best. Why fill your refrigerator with pickles when they can sit on a shelf, leaving refrigeration for fresh produce? I’m not paid to mention this website, and I admit I haven’t tried it myself, but this site has all the hallmarks of a good recipe: It has step-by-step instructions on stove-top waterbath canning, beautiful photos and clear explanations, with links to more online resources in case you need them.

Logo for Lana’s Cooking

The ingredients are fresh okra, vinegar with 5% acidity, garlic, dill seed, pure canning salt, and whole black peppercorns. There’s a printable recipe card at the end of the post, for those who enjoy a screen-free kitchen. Fill the jar tightly with okra pods standing on the blunt ends (tips up). Add a whole peeled garlic clove and the salt and spices. If you like hot spicy pickles you can add a little hot pepper. Pack more okra (tips down this time) into the jars, without crushing the pods. Fill the jars with a hot vinegar and water mix. See the recipe for all the details you’ll need. For instance: “Process for 10 minutes for altitudes up to 1,000 ft; 15 minutes for altitudes 1,001 – 6,000 ft; and 20 minutes over 6,000 feet.” Nothing is left to guesswork or chance. Best flavor is achieved 4-6 weeks after canning, and you can store the canned pickles for a year (maybe more, but you will probably have eaten them all before then, so don’t worry!)

A full jar of pickled okra. Photo from Lana’s Cooking

Solarization of our whole hoophouse

 

Solarization plastic spread across our hoophouse. Next we weighted down the edges with small buckets of rocks. Photo Ken Bezilla

I wrote in August 2019 about Solarization and Crop Choices to Fight Nematodes. Previously we solarized part of a bed in our hoophouse, or one or two beds. I’ve written before about our first efforts at solarization to fight root knot nematodes in our hoophouse. Back then we shoveled soil on the plastic edges to make a good seal between the plastic and the soil. Later we developed a good technique of pushing the plastic edges down into soil using spades, which gives a much better seal, and if you work both sides of the bed at the same time you can avoid wrinkles.

Solarizing a single bed in 2019 using a spade to push the plastic edge into the soil..
Photo Pam Dawling

This summer we decided to solarize the whole hoophouse. We hope to make progress on reducing fungal diseases in our winter crops, drawing down the weed seed bank, and killing lots of nematodes. We plan to solarize for the whole of August (4 weeks). Here’s the story so far.

Solarization

Solarization is a method of killing pests, diseases and weed seeds near the surface of the soil by covering the soil with clear plastic in hot weather. Nematodes are only active in warm weather, and we have not had problems with them outdoors, but of course, it’s warmer in the hoophouse!

In my Book Review: The Organic No-Till Farming Revolution: High Production Methods for Small-Scale Farmers, Andrew Mefferd, I wrote a little about solarizing:

“Solarization uses clear plastic (old hoophouse plastic is ideal). In a summer hoophouse, solarization can be as quick as 24 hours, Andrew says. When we’ve done this, one of our goals was to kill nematodes and fungal diseases, not just weeds, so we waited a few weeks. Outdoors it takes several weeks. You can see when the weeds are dead. Bryan O’Hara poked a thermometer probe through solarization plastic and found a 50F degree (28C) difference between the outside air and the soil immediately under the plastic; a 10F (6C) difference at 1″(2.5 cm) deep and little temperature gain lower than that. Solarization does not kill all the soil life!”

Preparation for Solarizing

Last time we changed the plastic, we saved our old hoophouse plastic in one large sheet, for just this option of solarizing the whole hoophouse. Unfortunately, someone used it for some other purpose, and we ended up having to buy new plastic to carry out our plan. Ouch! Label your old plastic very thoroughly! We bought 4 mil Tufflite Nursery Clear plastic from Nolts Greenhouse Supplies, Ephrata, PA (only rated for one year outdoors), thinner than the 6mil we buy for covering the frame. Be aware that shipping can be a big part of the cost, unless you are ordering lots of things.

Clearing hoophouse tomatoes and sunn hemp cover crop.
Photo Pam Dawling

We pulled up our tomatoes and cucumbers at the end of July, a week earlier than usual. The squash had already gone. I was sad to say goodbye to the bell peppers as they were the best we’ve had in years. Usually we keep the peppers until October and do our winter crop planning so that the pepper area is the last planted in winter crops, but we made that sacrifice! For several years our peppers didn’t do well, as the salinity of our soil had got too high. We now do salt wash-downs in September and March. This year they were spectacular! Big plants, huge peppers!

Lady Bell peppers ripening on 7 July.
Photo Pam Dawling

We decided to keep the big shadecloth in place for the solarizing day, expecting it to be very hot. It wasn’t, but it was a wise precaution. We planned to remove the shadecloth the next day, but it was raining and we need the shadecloth to be dry to pack it away. So we waited a couple of days for our little monsoon season to pass. Normally we leave the shadecloth in place until mid-September or so, but this year we want maximum heating for the solarization.

We are leaving the drip tape in place so we can water the soil and keep it alive below the hot zone. If we had thought of it in time, we might have spread compost on the beds before spreading the plastic and killed the weed seeds that have landed on the compost pile while we ignored it since early April. We were stretched thin and got behind with the mowing, and we know grass and spiny amaranth seeded somewhat on to the pile. We did have it partly covered with a tarp.

Unrolling the Plastic

Unrolling plastic to solarize the hoophouse.
Photo Pam Dawling

We bought plastic 32’x100’ which was just right for the footprint of our 30’x 96’ gothic hoophouse. We unrolled it down the center bed (it was folded in several concertina folds from each edge to the middle). We gradually unpacked the folds and pulled the plastic out to the edges. It is important to get as smooth and tight a fit as possible (few airgaps between soil and plastic).

We designated one person to take their sandals off and walk on top of the plastic, while the rest of us gathered small buckets and put some rocks in them, to anchor the edges. This all went very smoothly and took less time than we expected. We used about one bucket of rocks every 20’ down the length. We rolled our painters’ pole that we use for our SnoBrum in the plastic across the west doorway, the direction the strongest winds come from, for add extra security in preventing wind getting under that edge of the plastic. We did not bury the plastic edges in the soil, as that seemed difficult and we figured a large area would suffer less edge cooling/heat escape than a single bed.

Closing Up the Hoophouse for a Month

We closed the doors and windows and relaxed into enjoying a summer month off from harvesting in the hoophouse. We have made a list of infrastructure repairs, landscape care and, of course, the winter crop planning to do in t he next month. And we’ll be irrigating maybe twice a week and checking the soil thermometer periodically. It showed 80F last week, before we solarized.

Hoophouse solarization at Dripping Springs Garden, Arkansas.
Photo Pam Dawling

More Resources on Solarizing

eOrganic’s Organic Vegetable Production Systems Topics list offers publications on plant disease management, weed management and management of soil-borne pathogens using Anaerobic Soil Disinfestation. Here’s a 2025 webinar about On-farm Anaerobic Soil Disinfestation for the Management of Soilborne Pathogens in High Tunnel Production Systems:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pEf26ae6XI

The University of California Solarization site and their Small and Organic Farm Advisor have good information, including some in Spanish and Hmong

More Resources on Nematodes

I’ve written here before about our struggles with root knot nematodes in our hoophouse, and you can read everything I know about nematodes in the Year-Round Hoophouse.

My article on nematodes in Growing for Market  in November 2014 describes our discovery of the beasties and our first attempts to deal with them. My most thorough blogpost about nematodes was for Mother Earth News  Managing Nematodes in the Hoophouse. It’s free for MEN members.

There is info on dealing with nematodes from Garry Ross in Hawaii, where nematodes are a fact of daily life, in my post Cold weather, snow, thinking about nematodes from February 2015.