Book Review: Saved by Seeds, Embracing Diversity, Adaptation, and Resilience, by Chris Smith.

Front cover of Saved by Seeds by Chris Smith

Book Review: Saved by Seeds, Embracing Diversity, Adaptation, and Resilience.  Chris Smith. Chelsea Green.

“Seeds compress future potential and deep past into miniscule abundant objects” (Dr Courtney Fullilove.)

I always enjoy Chris Smith’s writing and speaking, ever since his first book The Whole Okra. This book includes his love affair with okra, as well as beans, tomatoes, and sorghum seed growing. Also here are six chapters exploring aspects of seed saving, seed sovereignty, preserving purity, encouraging diversity, adaptation and resilience and seed selection. For those drawn in to the seed saving community, the appendices provide details hard to find elsewhere.

Chris’s home in Asheville, NC is a 5-hour drive from the nearest coast and was thought to be a climate haven. A place that would be less impacted by climate change than many other places in the US.  But on 15 September 27, 2024, Hurricane Helene moved over Asheville and by some measures caused a 30,000-year flood. Many lives were lost as entire towns were swept away. Felled trees devastated the energy infrastructure, flood waters and landslides ruined water distribution, and cell services were unavailable for weeks in some areas.

We cannot avoid climate change and have reached the limits of adaptation to it. We urgently need to work on quick recovery and mitigation.

Utopian Seed Project logo

In 2018 Chris founded the Utopian Seed Project, a nonprofit organization dedicated to cultivating, researching, and celebrating resiliency in food and farming via crop diversity.

This is not a text book on growing seeds, although it has that information too. It’s an inspirational book on why and what if we challenge the current orthodoxy of heirloom preservation. Chris is neither advocating for heirloom preservation, nor advocating for hybrid seeds, either.

Heirlooms are not the David champion against Goliath hybrids, although Chris admits that publicly critiquing heirlooms is like picking a fight with everyone’s favorite granny. See the book for a comparison of seed savioring vs. seed saving. Don’t hold on to what was but seek what can be.

Seed strains can usefully and pleasantly evolve, with deliberate or accidental crosses, as has been happening over much of human history. The strict heirloom preservation movement is a more recent phenomenon. Chris started there, and moved to embrace diversity, adaptation, and resilience to find varieties adapted to his garden.

Slow adaptation doesn’t pay in this time of climate change. We need seeds that are highly adaptive and resilient (and therefore include more diversity). Back to “landraces”: local varieties of plants or animals that have distinctive characteristics born from development and adaptation over time to the local geographic region and that typically show greater genetic diversity than types subjected to formal breeding practices.

Heirlooms can be sirens, distracting us from what we actually need to seek –  varieties that are rare may be rare for a reason! Not everything is worth keeping!

Chris says “I’ve been deep in the seed world for over a decade, and from the start I’ve heard and read (and regurgitated) countless stories of the importance of heirlooms, while exploring diversity still feels fringe.”

There’s a concept in journalism called Hallin’s spheres, developed by Daniel Hallin, which describes how systems of status quo define the boundaries of acceptable discourse. I find the spheres to be a useful framework for thinking about our relationship with seeds.

  • The Sphere of Consensus generally maintains or protects the status quo and is collectively assumed to be true.
  • The Sphere of Legitimate Controversy includes areas of acceptable debate, but all remain “serious” topics.
  • The Sphere of Deviance includes ideas that are either invisible or dismissed. In mainstream circles, these are often considered unscientific, impractical, or purely ideological.

Ideas can move between one sphere and another. “Ideas in the sphere of deviance may be considered deviant just because they disrupt the status quo or current political regime . . .   At the time of writing, reporting has documented widespread edits to federal agency websites, including the USDA and EPA, where language related to climate change, diversity, and Indigenous communities has been flagged, removed, or replaced. I think it’s time to be deviant and disruptive.”

In Dr. Bennett’s book Plant Genetic Resources, she wrote: “ I see no special advantage in conservation in the form of seed apart from the very eminent one of convenience, and I think that attempts to find other merits in the “steady state” which seed storage represents, seem to come dangerously near to adopting museum concepts.”

“A freezer full of seeds is the literal version of putting all your eggs in one basket.”

“Bennett and others advocated for seeds to be grown and saved by communities in order to maintain the people-seed connection so that the seeds could continue to adapt and evolve.”

We need in situ preservation for ongoing adaptive change. The world of community-centered plant breeding ecosystems points to a vision of a better world.

“Early American plant collecting and farmer adaptation is often romanticized, but American agriculture was built on stolen land, largely by stolen people, and in some cases, stolen seeds.”

The Emergence Network

“The Emergence Network asks, “What if the way we respond to the crisis is part of the crisis?” One of the responses to the impact of the green revolution on crop diversity has been to preserve crop diversity. But this style of preservation feels similar to billionaire bunkers or an escape plan to Mars. We can and should preserve seeds, but the systems driving their loss are still very much in place.”

“The 2017 Census of Agriculture reported that 95 percent of US farm producers are white, while a 2018 National Agricultural Workers Survey reported that 83 percent of all farmer workers are Hispanic.”

As well as How-to, the chapters cover the history of seeds in the US, botanical and technical info to help seed-savers succeed, examples of seed-saving for some main crops, an overview of diversity, adaptation and resilience applied to seeds, a step-by-step sequence of exploring seed diversity, and more about genetic diversity, including using ultracrosses.

Here you will find the information you need to prevent accidental cross-pollination, save seeds, dry them and grow them next year. The science you need is there. The explanations are clear and amusing (grow enough of your grandma’s rare bean seeds so you can give some away and dilute the risk of her haunting you).

This book doesn’t shy away from complicated things such as mutations and sports, random genetic changes that occur unbidden and you may not even notice. If you do, you may form an opinion: is this a Good Thing, a Bad Thing or an Interesting Thing? Chromosomes carry genetic information, usually in pairs. Brassica oleracea has 9 pairs, Brassica rapa has 10 pairs. Usually if a B rapa and B oleracea cross the result will not be stable.  A mule is a cross between a donkey and a horse and cannot produce any offspring of its own. Occasionally in the plant world, a new tetraploid species (with two sets of paired chromosomes) forms and fertility is restored.

This book explains many details of genetic and epigenetic changes as well as inherited seed biomes and the mysteries of non-neuron-based intelligence. Don’t let these complex ideas deter you. You will marvel at our world after reading this.

Chris Smith, author of Saved by Seeds

Chris says “I am quite a pragmatic (non-woo-woo) type of person, but. . .” I’m similar. Plant communication is strange and amazing, challenging to what we were raised to believe. Chris asks “What is possible if we approach seed saving and plant breeding as a partnership between people and plants?” This could perhaps lead to the development of more resilient crops, very much needed in this time of climate chaos.

“We need genetic diversity at the variety level, especially for adaptive systems. Inbred heirlooms and uniform hybrids aren’t going to cut it.” There is a lot of value in diversity. Regeneratively-Grown Climate Blend whole wheat flour is a blend of unique wheat varieties grown using regenerative practices that improve soil health. Climate Blend showed no drop in yield in the 2021 heat dome over the Pacific NW. Other growers reported a 40% drop. “If we have a chaotic climate, our strategy is to have genetic chaos in the field,”

This kind of diversity is the same as the Landrace concept in indigenous farming: diverse populations that always succeed in growing a crop, depending on the conditions. “The term landrace is used in many contexts but generally it describes domesticated crop populations that have evolved intergenerationally (that is, over long periods) through traditional farming practices and natural selection in specific local environments.”

Front cover of The Whole Okra by Chris Smith

The book includes a description of Chris’s multi-year okra trials, which you can read more about in The Whole Okra.

You can also read in this book about Ultracross collards, Ultracross okra; the development of a Purple Peach tomato with delicious Cherokee Purple flavor; the okra progeny of Puerto Rico Everblush (a round, velvety pod with red blushing and tasty flavor) and Aunt Hettie’s red okra (a robust, chunky okra pod with great flavor and high productivity) and more. Chris is breeding for resistance, flavor and more. Diverse seeds create a breeding ecosystem that can quickly evolve, adapt to local conditions, and bring resiliency.

“We must do everything possible to rapidly mitigate our collective human impact on the climate. If we don’t, it’s game over for life as we know it.”

Community-based seed keeping has declined, and with that we have lost a traditional way of advancing seed genetic diversity. It’s time to reestablish seed-keeping as a community activity: everyone a seed saver instead of a handful of seed saviors; infinite seed options instead of a limited number of “perfect” varieties. Chris reports that he resisted being called a plant breeder for a long time because of the term’s strong association with what he perceived as elitist corporate and academic systems. He came to realize that it’s a term that seed communities should reclaim. “The human history of plant breeding is long and vibrant; its narrowing to a pursuit of profit and purity is a recent phenomenon.” Chris recommends Adam Alexander’s book The Accidental Seed Heroes, which I also enjoyed (and reviewed).

During the rise of Monsanto and genetic modification, independent plant breeders and researchers began discussing how the ideas behind open-source software could be applied to seeds. The idea of protecting seed freedoms with open-source concepts led to the formation of the Open Source Seed Initiative (OSSI), which was officially established in 2012. They named four seed freedoms:

  1. The freedom to save or grow seed for replanting or for any other purpose.
  2. The freedom to share, trade, or sell seed to others.
  3. The freedom to trial and study seed and to share or publish information about it.
  4. The freedom to select or adapt the seed, make crosses with it, or use it to breed new lines and varieties.

To protect these freedoms, OSSI created a system for plant breeders to register their varieties with OSSI. When seeds registered with OSSI are shared or sold, the OSSI pledge goes along with them. No one can claim ownership in order to profit from a cultivar and prevent others developing it.

An issue has arisen of indigenous seeds used for private profit in a mostly white-led seed industry. If your beliefs include recognizing seeds as ancestors, or as beings embedded within specific cultural and spiritual lineages, then the idea of seeds as the common heritage of all humankind can be deeply inappropriate. This debate led to the Culturally-Informed Community Seeds Pledge, for seeds from plants that have retained ancestral, traditional, or cultural relationships with specific communities and places of origin.

The pledge states, “I respect the natural rights of seeds and their people by producing CICS-Pledged seeds under the pledge’s culturally-informed practices and code of ethics.” People receiving CICS-Pledged seeds are asked to follow the same guidelines.

Seed Savers Exchange (SSE) identified all the varieties they held that had a tribal affiliation. They then asked First Nations community members if they were okay with their seeds being distributed to non-tribal people. All but one respondent said no, they were not okay with it. So SSE took those seeds out of general circulation and reserved them for Indigenous communities.

Appendix A is a US Timeline of the Biological and Legal Enclosure of Seeds from 1790 to 2018. Until 1924, the US government ran a free seed distribution program, leading to profit-based seed companies. In 1889 The US commissioner of patents had ruled that it would be “unreasonable and impossible” to patent “the trees of the forest and the plants of the earth.” In 2018 The United Nations adopted the Declaration on the Rights of Peasants and Other People Working in Rural Areas (UNDROP), which recognized the rights of peasants to maintain, control, protect, develop, save, use, exchange and sell their own farm-saved seeds.

Appendix B provides population sizes and isolation distances for common vegetable crops.

Appendix C lists crop types and promiscuity

Appendix D lists seed companies selling Ultracross seed and other genepool collections.

The 8-page Glossary, a bibliography, an index and chapter notes round out the offerings in this remarkable book.

Thoughtful, inspiring, and of practical help, this is a book to treasure.

Seeds in glass jars. Best to label seeds inside and outside the jar. Photo Broken Banjo

Success with Growing Lettuce in Winter

 

Ezrilla, a favorite cold-hardy lettuce.
Photo Wren Vile

Lettuce Seed Inventory and Ordering in September

We’re doing a seed inventory and ordering seeds of winter and early spring lettuce varieties, to get us through to the main lettuce growing season starting in early March. By then we will have received our big seed order for the year.

I’ve updated our Lettuce Varieties List, after perusing catalogs and choosing a few promising varieties new to us.

We’ve decided not to grow romaine lettuces in our hoophouse this winter (and maybe never again), due to finding too many frozen or at least cold damaged stems last winter. We already gave up growing bibbs in our hoophouse some years ago (tip burn and restricted airflow encouraging fungal diseases.). So we’re left with leaf lettuces. We particularly like the Multileaf types, also variously known as One-Cut, Eazyleaf, Salanova, or Cut and Come Again lettuce.

Red Hawk Farm hoophouse planted wall to wall with multileaf lettuces.
Photo Pam Dawling

These produce “heads” composed entirely of small and medium-sized leaves – the outer leaves do not grow very big. They are bred for uniformly small leaves, with more texture, loft and flavor than baby mixes and faster harvesting. Transplanted 6″–8″ (15-20 cm) apart they produce 40% more than baby leaf mixes. (We transplant at 10″-12″ (25-30 cm), to improve airflow, so our production might not be as much as 40% more than baby leaf mixes.)

The full-size plant can be harvested as a head, providing a collection of bite-sized leaves.  But you get higher yields, particularly in winter, if you cut just one side of the plant (or the outer leaves) and let the plant regrow for future harvests. Growing multileaf heads takes 55 days in spring weather, compared to 30 days for baby lettuce.

Lettuce with sclerotinia drop.
Photo Pam Dawling

One of our winter lettuce challenges is sclerotinia lettuce drop, a fungal disease we call Solstice Slime. The Missouri Integrated Pest Management site linked here has lots of excellent photos and info on using an IPM approach to tackling this disease.

https://Image of red and green lettuces including some with Sclerotinia Lettuce Drop. <ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2016/2/recovered/index.cfm>

Our instructions to ourselves say: “Sow 10 winter varieties, 2′ of each. We want to include Multileaf types. Best slime resistance: Buckley, Ezrilla, Hampton, Brentwood, Merlot, Oscarde, Panisse, Red Tinged Winter, Revolution, Rhone, Tango. Next best: Red Salad Bowl, Salad Bowl. (NO: Hyper Red Wave, Outredgeous, Romaines or Bibbs)” Of our eleven favorite slime-resistant lettuces, eight of them are currently available and in-stock from Johnny’s, High Mowing, or Fedco.

Rhone lettuce.
Photo High Mowing Seeds

Two varieties on our wish list seem to be discontinued now: High Mowing is out of Buckley and Brentwood and won’t be restocking.  They recommend Rhone as a substitute for Brentwood (we grew that one last winter and liked it a lot).  They recommend a new Eazyleaf variety called Ezflor as a sub for Buckley, and we hope to try that.

I have notes from last year to try Frisygo, Rubygo, Ezpark from Johnny’s.

Merlox Red Oakleaf lettuce (resistant to Sclerotinia Lettuce Drop) from Fedco

Merlox Red Oakleaf (resistant to sclerotinia) from Fedco sounds very promising – we hope to try that. It’s not a multileaf type, but any winter-hardy lettuce resistant to sclerotinia, especially a red one, is worth trying.

We’re ordering more Oscarde and Red Tinged Winter seed now in case there’s none available next year. We may have enough, but don’t want to take big risks. Red Tinged Winter is a particularly productive and beautiful variety.

In 2026, we had bad germination on everything except Salad Bowl and Oscarde in our 9/15 sowing. I think this was due to inadequate nursery seedbed care. We’ll try to do better this year.

Lettuce Log

We are getting to the end of sowing lettuces for growing outdoors this year (it’s early September). Those lettuces will be harvested in the second half of November.

Click the + button to enlarge to readable size!

I’ve just updated my Lettuce Log, which is a work in progress, aiming to provide transplants for continuous lettuce year round for up to a hundred people. We tweaked some of the sowing and transplanting dates in hopes of a more even supply. Of course, every year is different, and all are unpredictable. Part of my strategy for resilience is to sow four different lettuce varieties each time, hoping several will thrive. It’s worked out very well this year. We had a slight shortage in August. Some bolted and we got no food from those ones.

As you can see from the log, the intervals between sowing dates get smaller as the year progresses, starting with 14 day intervals in January and February, decreasing rapidly in March and April to land at 8 days for early May, then 7 days and 6 days until mid-June when we start sowing every 5 days. In mid-August we sow every 4 days, then 3. We no longer grow winter lettuce in our coldframe (as the hoophouse provides a much better environment), so we can take a break from lettuce sowing for the first half of September. In the second half of September we sow for transplanting in the hoophouse and the greenhouse in late October.

Looking next at the column of transplanting dates and the column just before it (Days to transplant from sowing), you can see the length of time it takes a lettuce seedling to grow to transplanting size decreases from 51 days in January/February to mid-20s in May, then 20 or below right through to the end of August. You might well ask why we don’t just start sowing later in January, or even wait till February, and that would be a reasonable question. Probably the later-sown ones would catch up! We’re just enthusiastic to get sowing!

The number of days between transplanting one sowing and the next also decreases from 10 days at the beginning of the year down to 4 days in September. September plantings will each take longer than the preceding one to grow to harvest size.

The Harvest Start and Harvest Finish columns have the least reliable data. I hope to pay more attention to this part in 2027! My general goal is to harvest at least 100 good lettuces (from a planting of 120) every week from late April to the end of November.

The columns to the right include details about when we need to shade the transplants, when we put ice cubes on top of the seedbed, and when we watch out for cutworms. Those are topics for a different time of year.

I wrote about our late summer lettuce transition in August 2025, and about winter lettuce in December 2022. Also about Lettuce All year in a Changing Climate in September 2021. I wrote about our Fall Lettuce Transition in my September 2022 post Preparing your Hoophouse for Fall and Winter.

If you want to start from scratch figuring out sowing and transplanting dates for a continuous lettuce supply in your climate see this post, which includes my slideshow Lettuce Year Round and our graph of succession planting dates.

Unusual Crop for September – Less Common Greens

Less Common Greens – Celtuce, Jewels of Opar, Chrysanthemum Greens, Eat-All Greens

In my monthly series on unusual crops,  I wrote about Peanuts in May

In June I wrote about Bug-Resistant Summer Squash Substitutes

In July I wrote about Squash Blossoms and Other Edible Flowers

In August I wrote about Kohlrabi

This month, I’m writing about unusual greens for late fall and winter meals.

Spring Tower celtuce from Johnny’s Selected Seeds

Celtuce, Stem lettuce

Celtuce is the same crop family as regular lettuce. The difference is that it is bred to grow thick, succulent stalks, and that is the part eaten, raw or lightly steamed or stir-fried. It can also be pickled, or used as a gluten-free pasta substitute. Some people say the flavor of the stem is a crisp, nutty cross between romaine, celery and cucumber.

Celtuce photo from Red Wagon Farm, Boulder, Colorado

The leaves are eaten by people who like slightly bitter salad vegetables such as radicchio. Young leaves are edible about 5 weeks after planting and the stems are ready when about 12” (30 cm) tall, or shorter if you prefer. Trim and peel the stems, then chop however you like, rounds or diagonally-cut chunks. Celtuce goes well added late into miso or egg drop soup, or with tofu.

Purple Sword celtuce

Celtuce Varieties

As an Asian vegetable, Celtuce is also known as Aa choy. True Leaf Market (Kitazawa Seeds) has a Purple Sword variety. Green celtuce varieties are more widely available, such as Spring Tower from Johnny’s. I was entertained to discover that the fast-maturing spring lettuce Cracoviensis that I grew when I first moved to Virginia has since been classified as a type of celtuce. The killing temperature of outdoor unprotected celtuce is 20°F (-7°C). It bolts readily as spring starts to warm, but the leaves are not bitter and the stem is the prize!

Cracoviensis lettuce, or “red celtuce”
Credit Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Sowing and transplanting celtuce

Sow seed 1/8″ (3 mm) deep, about 1/4″ (6 mm) apart a few weeks before transplanting outdoors. For a continuous supply, sow every 2-3 weeks. Shade flats if necessary to keep the soil surface below 75°F (24°C) until germination. Transplant 8″-12″ (20-30 cm) apart in rows 12″-18″ (30-45 cm) apart.

Short term celtuce storage

Celtuce stems will keep for 3 weeks or so in a ziplock bag in a refrigerator vegetable drawer.

Jewels of Opar (Talinum paniculatum)

Jewels of Opar photo from Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Aka fameflower, this is a heat-loving plant that can provide salad leaves in hot weather, and delicate pink flowers on spindly stems (nice filler for flower arrangements) followed by shiny ruby-red or orange-bronze seed pods, which are also useful in floral displays. Unlike celtuce, this is for those in hot climates (or try it in summer in mid-latitudes where lettuce is hard to keep growing in summer.) It grows 1’-3’ tall (30-90 cm) and as much as 2’-3’ (60-90 cm) wide. It doesn’t seem to suffer if grown thickly in the row. It forms dense mounds of succulent leaves (it’s related to purslane). The slightly succulent oval leaves make good salads or sandwich fillers. They are a nice size too: up to 4” x 2” (10 cm x 5 cm).

Jewels of Opar is a native plant and there are also cultivars such as Kingwood Gold and Limon valued by florists. It grows as a perennial in zones 8-10. It does self sow but not in a problematic way in zone 7. The evening-opening flowers attract bees and other polllinators.

Chrysanthemum Greens aka shungiku or crown daisy (Glebionis coronaria)

September-sown shungiku (chrysanthemum greens) in January.
Photo Pam Dawling

This Asian green has a distinctive flavor. It really is a chrysanthemum, not a lettuce, and not a brassica as most Asian greens are. Formerly called Chrysanthemum coronarium, Ismelia coronaria, Xanthophthalmum coronarium, or Pinardia coronaria, it also known as “garland chrysanthemum” or “chop suey greens” in English. It is known as “Kikuna” in western Japan, “tong hao” in Chinese, ssukgat in Korean and cải cúc or tần ô in Vietnamese.

 Most chrysanthemums are perennial with poisonous leaves, but shungiku is an edible annual.

The flavor of the leaves was not at all popular with our crowd. I have written about our trial of this in our winter hoophouse to attract aphid predators in early spring. (We sowed in September, but our winter was too cold for them.) There are various colors of flowers. The flowers on the ones we grew were solid yellow, not banded with other colors. We bought seed from Small House Farm. Bevin Cohen says it does attract bees, butterflies and predatory insects, and would probably do well in the winter hoophouse, and could be provoked into bolting early in the spring.

Shungiku chrysanthemum greens.
Photo Small House Farm

Rotations including unusual greens

Having non-brassica greens is a help with crop rotations.

A maximum of 1 year in 4 for brassicas is ideal to avoid disease and pest buildup. When possible, plant one year’s brassicas at some distance from the previous year’s, rather than in adjacent plots. The spread of disease can be reduced by avoiding walking through wet crops and by controlling weeds in the brassica family, such as rock cress, pepperweed, garlic mustard, and wild rocket.

Timing for fall crops 

Planting dates for fall crops can be exacting because the cooling weather slows down the plants’ growth, and a day or two delay in sowing date can mean a week or two delay in harvest date.

The number of days to harvest given in seed catalogs is based on spring conditions – plants grow faster in warmer temperatures. To determine when to sow for fall plantings, start with your desired harvest date, noting when would be too late! Consult https://weatherspark.com to estimate when it will get too cold in your location.

Next subtract the number of days from seeding to transplant, plus the number of days from transplanting to harvest for that crop (given in the catalog description), plus the length of your ideal harvest period and another 14 days for the slowing rate of plant growth in fall compared to spring.

 Some Eat-All Greens in early November. Photo Lori Katz

Eat-All Greens: Fall Cooking Greens

 Eat-All Greens were invented by Carol Deppe, who explains them in her book The Tao of Vegetable Gardening . Carol grows and breeds vegetables in Corvallis, OR, in the Pacific NW, in a different climate zone from my home in central Virginia. Carol grows Eat-All Greens by broadcasting seed of one of her carefully chosen crops in a small patch. When it reaches 12″ tall, she cuts the top 9″ off for cooking, leaving the tough-stemmed lower part, perhaps for a second cut, or to return to the soil.

I decided to modify her idea for Virginia. Fall was a promising time of year for us to try this idea, as our spring planted greens only have a short season before they bolt. And summer is too hot, winter too cold. . . We sowed 9/16, got our first harvest on 10/21, 35 days after sowing, our second on 10/28 and our third on 11/3. Unlike Carol, we sowed our greens in rows side by side, enabling us to hoe the weeds. I doubt Carol has weeds.

You can read which greens we grew and which did best in this series of three posts:

Virginian Eat-All Greens

Sowed 9/15, harvested 10/21, 10/28, 11/3

Ate more Eat-All Greens

By late December the greens were past their best. I seem not to have recorded harvests between 11/3 and 12/10, but I know there were some. We made a last harvest on 12/10, pulling the roots of the radishes and turnips we had in the mix. The daikons, Crimson Giant and White Icicle radishes did well.

Eat-All Greens part 3

We had a low temperature of 6F on January 5th that winter. Not much was left alive. Always enthusiastic to keep updating my list of cold-hardy winter vegetable crops, I took my notebook and walked the rows a few days later. Here’s a (short) list of the survivors:

Best were Morris Heading collards. Also still showing some life were Purple Top White Globe turnips, Ortolani Market Grower arugula and some (not all) of the Hanover kale (which is after all, a Siberian spring kale, not recommended for over-winter growing). I wrote up our whole Eat-All Greens experience for the January 2016 issue of Growing for Market magazine

Eat-All Greens rows with frost in December.
Photo Bridget Aleshire

I developed clear ideas of what would I do different if we do this again. No chards, no beets, no kohlrabi. Thinner seed sowing, straighter rows (easier hoeing). Try some other Asian greens? Buy some of the specific varieties that Carol Deppe recommends. Maybe sow a week earlier. And a smaller patch! It’s fun!

Book Review: Sky Blue Trades, by Chip Planck

Front cover of Sky Blue Trades by Chip Planck

Book Review: Sky Blue Trades, by Chip Planck. Independently published, February 2026, 216 pages, ISBN 9798248250714.

Chip Planck and his wife Susan Planck farmed Wheatland Vegetable Farms in Northern Virginia from 1973-2010. This very engaging book is an interplanted field of essays, anecdotes and poetry. It’s a good “growing season read” because it is composed of short chapters that can be read when you have a few minutes. You will feel refreshed with inspiring food for thought, sometimes entertaining, sometimes sobering, about the culture and economics of farming.

There are sections on money, customers, workers, politics, the neighborhood, and, bravely, their low points. Poetry by Chip and a summation by Susan round out the book.

Chip tells how in 1973, a group land purchase of 400 acres 50 miles NW of Washington DC bought him and Susan a 60 acre share of that land, with a house in poor repair and the treasure of learning from Tony and Hiu Newcomb of Potomac Vegetable Farms, who also co-signed their loans. After 5 years as junior partners to Hiu and Tony, they began their own Wheatland Vegetable Farms, and marketed initially at roadside stands, but found insufficient traffic. They switched to driving in every week to 10-15 farmers markets in DC and the suburbs, and ran the markets from 1979-2010, growing 20 acres of vegetables. Clearly they needed a good supply of workers to pick and sell all that food.

Susan and Chip were successful full-time vegetable farmers for 37 years, without going to ag college, and without outside jobs or government payments. Their business covered retirement funds as well as farm expenses and daily living. They worked hard, read a lot about farming and picked up every tip they could from their mentors.

They paid wages, saved for retirement, planted enough crops, worked enough markets. And didn’t take off-farm jobs. In dollars per hour, the wages to first year workers were close to the Virginia minimum wage. Wages went up by $1/hr for second year workers, and another dollar for third year workers. Extra was paid before and after the academic vacations, and to those who stayed to the end of their contract. Returning workers were about one third of the crew. Yes, they kept precise time sheets, paid employer’s share of Medicaid and taxes. It was important to the Plancks to provide their workers’ contributions to retirement. They also provided spartan housing and plenty of produce. They are not owners who enjoy working endless hours in isolation.

They tracked their earnings in five-year rolling averages, to allow for the widely changing seasons. Their peak years were 2001-2005, after 20 years of learning, and before starting to cut back on acreage and markets as part of their gradual retirement plan. In their last 4 years their net earnings were higher because they had dropped their weakest markets and hired fewer workers.

The year was mentally divided into three parts: 7 months frost-free of “overtime weeks” (7 days of 10 hours each), 2 months of “full-time weeks” (7 days of 6 hours), and 3 months of part-time work (7 days of 3 hours). That totals 2750 hours a year, compared to a standard work year of 2000 hours.

Farming occupies a humble economic sector. In their first five years, the Plancks each made $1.85/hour, compared to $20/hour during the peak fat years. At one point they reached the top 10%, and then the top 4% of farms as far as earnings went. Lots of labor and smart decisions produced lots of earnings. Not quite as good as it sounds maybe, as 50% of farms have sales of $10,000 or less. Many are part-time.

Susan and Chip Planck at one of Wheatland Vegetable Farms markets

The overall picture is that they made enough to raise and educate a family, stay healthy, pay off a mortgage, and save for retirement. Working at home is nice except when you can’t get away. Working outdoors is refreshing except when it’s awful. Farming can leave you feeling well-used or used-up. You might feel like a glorified amateur or a thwarted specialist. But -ah- you can choose and enjoy your work.

The book also includes amusing insightful sections, such as the one on “conference brain-death”, the unforeseen side-effects of what farmers hope will be an energizing break: being denied true rest.

The Management Made Easy chapter includes Wheatland Vegetable Farms Fourteen Principles of Effective Worker Management. Useful stuff. Hiring workers increases production, income and happiness. Hiring family members might not, because you will be living with them at day’s end, and may hear about your poor decisions and grumpy behavior over dinner.

Refusing to hire workers because you can work faster than them is like a teacher complaining that students don’t know anything. Why are you teaching? The net return from the workers is the important bit, not who is fastest. It’s the volume of beans picked that generates the income.

One person alone cannot generate enough picked beans to raise a family. Thoreau was subsidized by Emerson paying for his hut. Don’t wait to get big before hiring workers. Hiring them will enable your farm to expand.

Do forewarn new workers of the realities of the job. Wheatland provided applicants with a 10-page description of the farm and the Plancks’ approaches to work and the reasons for the growing choices they made. They updated it each year. Unlikely fits selected themselves out. This saved hours of meeting time.

Every new task needs to be shown and then checked three times, starting half an hour into the job. Pull out rejects from the picking basket and point out missed crop that should have been picked. Don’t let people start a task until they’ve watched and listened. (Chip says to handcuff the crew until you finish the explanation.) Start with the statement that any mistakes you are warning them about are ones you have made yourselves. Quality control is a continuous job. This year, this week won’t be exactly the same as the last one.

Working with your crew gives the best collective result. People working in small groups of mixed abilities raises the overall result. Assign the people to a group. Choose the best workers for the specialized crops. Keep things flowing. Avoid letting crews grind to a complete halt. Move some of them on to another task, allocate clean up.

Experience of school life does not teach personal efficiency or co-operative work skills. Don’t expect college kids to have developed such skills. Farm workers need to understand picking and selling, as one skill informs the other. The farmer has to let go enough for workers to be sloppy and inattentive at first. The market customers will give the workers feedback. You can give them meticulous instructions and build trust.

Pay them, reward them, retain them, join them in fun as well as work. You will be building a network of future farmers – 25 workers out of 300 Wheatland workers went on to farm commercially. What makes a good worker? A good employer.

Workers can form a tribe, a small community. They talk about work over their dinners. This spreads the norms, practices of the farm and gives them a chance to compare with other farms any of them have worked at.

At Wheatland, there were no financial secrets. The Plancks told the workers what they made and spent on the farm and trusted them to take produce to market, sell it and bring the money home.

Many farmers try to keep the workforce to a minimum, but Wheatland chose the other path. There’s a chapter on why it’s valuable to have some less-efficient workers and some less-productive acres, so long as those workers and acres generate a net return. The workers enjoy having others around, and when the going is hard, they appreciate having other people to share the difficulties, or at least get the picking done faster and get in out of the rain. Over 25 years, evidence mounted that more labor could earn the farm more money. During their first 5 years, Chip and Susan kept 16 cents of every dollar in sales. Labor was 30% of total costs. Later the margin grew to 34 cents of every dollar earned and labor was 49% of total costs. Other costs shrank to less significance compared to labor.

 

Chip and Susan were interviewed for the Growing for Market podcast. You can listen to it here.

In their last 4 years of farming, 2006-2010, they cut back a lot on acres cultivated and markets served. Labor decreased to 34% of costs. Work became more efficient but was insufficient for the owners to live off. They started to draw Social Security and retirement savings, which was all part of their plan.

If the customers wanted small tomatoes, pinks, unusual types, they did their best to meet their requests. That took a lot of labor. Note, however, that growing 12 types of tomatoes is all “growing tomatoes” – the same skill set.

How many workers are too many? Life is a perpetual trade-off between favoring and cultivating skill and efficiency on the one hand, and encouraging maximum participation and learning on the other hand. Each season, the 10-20 workers started out trying all tasks. Group cohesion makes for better results than sub-dividing, leaving only all the slowest to pick tomatoes, where none of them would improve. Getting the job done correctly and quickly is vital to success. In some situations, giving a task to the best suited pays off, but never assume.

In the early 1990s, Loudoun County adopted a hamlet ordinance, a kind of cluster housing idea. Each rural building lot had to be big enough to include its own water and sewage facilities, be set back from the road and be part of a clustered arrangement that included some common open space and left some surrounding land undeveloped under the residents’ control.

In 2002, they started to develop a hamlet, with a contractor digging perc-test pits. After this very speedy start, it took 15 years before the first house and lot were sold. Houses of modest square-footage, built for maximum solar gain, from high quality materials, oriented to encourage neighborliness, with 96% of the farmland in a conservation easement preventing more housing being built there. There are two large “Conservancy” lots owned by farmers and 7 householders on small building lots. Rural growth without sprawl, or much loss of farmland.

In the US, consumers were responsible for starting producer-only farmers’ markets. Farmers answered the demand, bringing produce close to where large numbers of people shopped, and a new movement flourished. This worked better than roadside stands (not enough customers), dealing with wholesalers (inflexible demands, late payments) and hobby farmers (selling small volumes unreliably).

Farmers’ markets had low entry barriers (a patch, a truck, a card table, some produce) and no-selling-before-the-bell rules (self-interested cooperation). Selfish unregulated behavior (the tragedy of the commons) was avoided.

The section telling three serious Low Points of life on the farm is presented as cautionary tales and lessons learned. Farmers should not take risks with machinery, should fess up, pay up, and know when to give up on trying to fix broken machines. Appreciate your local rescue squad. Don’t blame fate for effects of your errors, or your inattention. Follow standard safety procedures. Only do dangerous work with someone else nearby, appreciating your local community. Learn from your mistakes. Death will happen. Have a plan for caring for your dead, burying them, gathering friends, mourning them, celebrating their life, keeping mementos, including some of their writing, art or craft, and arranging for farm life to continue while you are doing these things.

Chip’s poems are easy to read, encapsulating the wisdom and wonder of farming. Not many books include an ode to groundhogs, grasshoppers, crickets, mice and slugs! These poems are good to read when you have only two minutes and need a pick-me-up.

Oh, the book has no index! Sad omission, as I’m sure others will want to read parts more than once.

There’s an appendix for busy readers, by Susan. History, methods used on their farm to replenish the soil, include cover crops and hay mulch, sow and transplant, manage pests including weeds, insects, diseases (baking soda works as well as two commercial fungicides for hay-mulched musk melons, plastic mulch prevents splash-back fungal problems). They bought only used equipment, including several tractors and a bean picking machine. The buildings included their house, a large bank barn (worker housing, equipment storage and chickens).

They added hoop houses, a workshop, a worker kitchen, a seasonal bath house, a greenhouse. They built crates and pallets, developed a fast system for filling flats with medium. They used a scale to weigh filled flats and determine if they held enough water (a method for new people until they got the hang of what the correct weight felt like.) Seven foot deer fencing around their 60 acres became essential once their neighbors at Potomac Vegetable Farms had fenced their 400 acres.

Mulch is valuable stuff. On 20 or 25 acres, the Planks roll out 5”-6” of low-grade hay from 500-700 pound round bales, paying $10-$12 each. This saves a lot of cultivation and adds organic matter to the soil, while storing rain and preventing run-off erosion. There are more advantages listed.

After trying many crops, they eliminated peas, snap peas, potatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, celery, kale, collards, leeks, fennel, sweet potatoes, rhubarb, strawberries and raspberries. They focused on multiple successions and multiple varieties of the crops that did best for them and that customers wanted. They chose good-flavored varieties.

They settled on a uniform price per pound for squash, cukes, eggplants and onions, to make check out easier. Their lettuce was entirely Batavian Summer Crisp types that do well in spring, summer and fall, entirely grown from transplants germinated in the basement. The transplants were popped into plastic mulched beds, hooped and covered until saleable, then cut 2” above the ground for two weeks of regrowth. The cut leaves were washed, mixed and bagged. Direct-seeded greens were sown in mid-August, again in mid-September, in broadcast patches.

Work shifts were 8-12, 2-6, or when very hot, 8-12 and 3-7 or 7-11 and 3-7. Each worker (not Susan and Chip) had one day off per week (staggered and excluding market days of Friday and Saturday). Everyone went to market two days a week. They paid their middle and high school children at worker rates.

In retirement, Chip and Susan have 1/10 acre vegetables on landscape fabric. And they have written this book, Sky Blue Trades.  $13

Successful Okra Harvesting and Beyond

 

Cow Horn okra pods. Photo Bridget Aleshire

This August, our okra has been doing really well. We planted 3 beds rather than our usual one or two, and the harvest was piling up in our walk-in cooler so much that we cut down one of the beds!

Okra does not like to be chilled! We need to deal with the American tendency to store almost everything in the fridge. Chilling injury of okra causes dark damp spots on the pods, which lead to pitting and slimy breakdown.

Okra can be stored at 45°F–50°F (14°C–15°C) in unperforated plastic bags for up to 15 days. This compares favorably with only 2 days without a bag or 7 days in a perforated bag. The plastic bags keep the humidity high.

Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus), a tropical annual in the mallow family, is widely adapted where the frost-free season is long enough. Those in cold climates should choose fast-maturing varieties and transplant into black plastic. In areas with cold nights, okra can only be grown in a hoop-house. Those in hot climates will need to deal with the exuberant growth in midsummer. Okra is heat and drought tolerant and has few serious pests or diseases.

I have written a few posts on okra in recent years.

Okra seedlings in Winstrip 50-cell trays.
Photo Pam Dawling

Okra Planting Time 5/11/22

Caring for your Okra Crop 7/13/22. Includes info on seed-saving.

Okra Varieties and Harvest in Sweet Corn, Potatoes and Okra7/17/19 – planting mistakes too!

Front cover of The Whole Okra by Chris Smith

A review of Chris Smith’s wonderful book The Whole Okra 4/16/19

Southern Exposure Seed Exchange has an Okra Growing Guide.

This post will fill some gaps.

Succession Planting and Renovating Okra Plants

Generally only one planting of okra is made each year, although it is possible to sow in spring and fall in hot climates, using a fast-maturing variety for the later sowing. Or sow only in the summer for a fall crop, and don’t fight cold spring soil temperatures.

Summer okra pruning. Alabama Cooperative Extension Service

In hot climates, okra plants benefit from being rejuvenated in the middle of the summer, by cutting them back (with a machete, or tree loppers) to 6” (15 cm) stubs after the first heavy harvest (perhaps in the fifth week of harvesting) and after market prices start to decline. For large areas, use a tractor mower.

The plants will produce again in the fall, when prices have risen again, and fall yields can be higher than spring crops. Side-dressing at this stage can also boost production. As well as revitalizing the productivity, this process keeps the plants at a manageable height.

Alternatively, to avoid losing all your crop at once, lop progressively along the row, perhaps cutting 5% of the plants each day, starting after they reach shoulder height. Other growers tell of cutting back plants to a height of 4’ (1.2 m), which causes the plant to branch more.

Okra Yield and Harvest

3-9 days after flowering, pods will be mature (it takes 40 days from flowering to mature seed).

For maximum yields it is important to harvest at least every second day. If pods are missed, they will mature and limit the future flowering and therefore the yield. Average yields are about 3–4 tons/acre (6.8–9 t/ha) on bare ground in the South. Yields on black plastic are considerably higher.

For smaller plantings, expect 50–100 lb/100′ (7.6–15 kg/10 m). We grow 90′ (27 m) for 100 people, which provides enough for some pickling too.

Carmine Splendor okra plant.
Photo Pam Dawling

We harvest six days a week, using pruners, or a small serrated knife. The stems are quite tough. Some people find their skin is irritated by the spiny leaves and like to wear long sleeves when harvesting. We cut Cow Horn at 5” (13 cm) or bigger. Some years we have attached a piece of card to special pruners for the job, showing the size to cut. Do not make assumptions about toughness without testing with a thumbnail, or snapping off the tip. We’ve also been surprised to find it necessary to show new people the difference between a rounded “empty” pointed flower bud, and an angular firm pod.

Our harvest starts in mid-July and runs until frost, a period of 12 weeks or so. At the end of the season, we find we need to dig out the massive trunks and consign them to a spot on the edge of the woods that we call “The End of the World.”

Pickled Okra 

Pickled okra, garlic scapes, beets, kale.
Photo by Bridget Aleshire

Okra is very tasty pickled, a good choice if you have high yields and a demand for off-season value-added products.

I found a recipe for shelf-stable pickled okra from Lana’s Cooking. I do think shelf-stable canned pickles, that don’t need refrigeration, are the best. Why fill your refrigerator with pickles when they can sit on a shelf, leaving refrigeration for fresh produce? I’m not paid to mention this website, and I admit I haven’t tried it myself, but this site has all the hallmarks of a good recipe: It has step-by-step instructions on stove-top waterbath canning, beautiful photos and clear explanations, with links to more online resources in case you need them.

Logo for Lana’s Cooking

The ingredients are fresh okra, vinegar with 5% acidity, garlic, dill seed, pure canning salt, and whole black peppercorns. There’s a printable recipe card at the end of the post, for those who enjoy a screen-free kitchen. Fill the jar tightly with okra pods standing on the blunt ends (tips up). Add a whole peeled garlic clove and the salt and spices. If you like hot spicy pickles you can add a little hot pepper. Pack more okra (tips down this time) into the jars, without crushing the pods. Fill the jars with a hot vinegar and water mix. See the recipe for all the details you’ll need. For instance: “Process for 10 minutes for altitudes up to 1,000 ft; 15 minutes for altitudes 1,001 – 6,000 ft; and 20 minutes over 6,000 feet.” Nothing is left to guesswork or chance. Best flavor is achieved 4-6 weeks after canning, and you can store the canned pickles for a year (maybe more, but you will probably have eaten them all before then, so don’t worry!)

A full jar of pickled okra. Photo from Lana’s Cooking

Solarization of our whole hoophouse

 

Solarization plastic spread across our hoophouse. Next we weighted down the edges with small buckets of rocks. Photo Ken Bezilla

I wrote in August 2019 about Solarization and Crop Choices to Fight Nematodes. Previously we solarized part of a bed in our hoophouse, or one or two beds. I’ve written before about our first efforts at solarization to fight root knot nematodes in our hoophouse. Back then we shoveled soil on the plastic edges to make a good seal between the plastic and the soil. Later we developed a good technique of pushing the plastic edges down into soil using spades, which gives a much better seal, and if you work both sides of the bed at the same time you can avoid wrinkles.

Solarizing a single bed in 2019 using a spade to push the plastic edge into the soil..
Photo Pam Dawling

This summer we decided to solarize the whole hoophouse. We hope to make progress on reducing fungal diseases in our winter crops, drawing down the weed seed bank, and killing lots of nematodes. We plan to solarize for the whole of August (4 weeks). Here’s the story so far.

Solarization

Solarization is a method of killing pests, diseases and weed seeds near the surface of the soil by covering the soil with clear plastic in hot weather. Nematodes are only active in warm weather, and we have not had problems with them outdoors, but of course, it’s warmer in the hoophouse!

In my Book Review: The Organic No-Till Farming Revolution: High Production Methods for Small-Scale Farmers, Andrew Mefferd, I wrote a little about solarizing:

“Solarization uses clear plastic (old hoophouse plastic is ideal). In a summer hoophouse, solarization can be as quick as 24 hours, Andrew says. When we’ve done this, one of our goals was to kill nematodes and fungal diseases, not just weeds, so we waited a few weeks. Outdoors it takes several weeks. You can see when the weeds are dead. Bryan O’Hara poked a thermometer probe through solarization plastic and found a 50F degree (28C) difference between the outside air and the soil immediately under the plastic; a 10F (6C) difference at 1″(2.5 cm) deep and little temperature gain lower than that. Solarization does not kill all the soil life!”

Preparation for Solarizing

Last time we changed the plastic, we saved our old hoophouse plastic in one large sheet, for just this option of solarizing the whole hoophouse. Unfortunately, someone used it for some other purpose, and we ended up having to buy new plastic to carry out our plan. Ouch! Label your old plastic very thoroughly! We bought 4 mil Tufflite Nursery Clear plastic from Nolts Greenhouse Supplies, Ephrata, PA (only rated for one year outdoors), thinner than the 6mil we buy for covering the frame. Be aware that shipping can be a big part of the cost, unless you are ordering lots of things.

Clearing hoophouse tomatoes and sunn hemp cover crop.
Photo Pam Dawling

We pulled up our tomatoes and cucumbers at the end of July, a week earlier than usual. The squash had already gone. I was sad to say goodbye to the bell peppers as they were the best we’ve had in years. Usually we keep the peppers until October and do our winter crop planning so that the pepper area is the last planted in winter crops, but we made that sacrifice! For several years our peppers didn’t do well, as the salinity of our soil had got too high. We now do salt wash-downs in September and March. This year they were spectacular! Big plants, huge peppers!

Lady Bell peppers ripening on 7 July.
Photo Pam Dawling

We decided to keep the big shadecloth in place for the solarizing day, expecting it to be very hot. It wasn’t, but it was a wise precaution. We planned to remove the shadecloth the next day, but it was raining and we need the shadecloth to be dry to pack it away. So we waited a couple of days for our little monsoon season to pass. Normally we leave the shadecloth in place until mid-September or so, but this year we want maximum heating for the solarization.

We are leaving the drip tape in place so we can water the soil and keep it alive below the hot zone. If we had thought of it in time, we might have spread compost on the beds before spreading the plastic and killed the weed seeds that have landed on the compost pile while we ignored it since early April. We were stretched thin and got behind with the mowing, and we know grass and spiny amaranth seeded somewhat on to the pile. We did have it partly covered with a tarp.

Unrolling the Plastic

Unrolling plastic to solarize the hoophouse.
Photo Pam Dawling

We bought plastic 32’x100’ which was just right for the footprint of our 30’x 96’ gothic hoophouse. We unrolled it down the center bed (it was folded in several concertina folds from each edge to the middle). We gradually unpacked the folds and pulled the plastic out to the edges. It is important to get as smooth and tight a fit as possible (few airgaps between soil and plastic).

We designated one person to take their sandals off and walk on top of the plastic, while the rest of us gathered small buckets and put some rocks in them, to anchor the edges. This all went very smoothly and took less time than we expected. We used about one bucket of rocks every 20’ down the length. We rolled our painters’ pole that we use for our SnoBrum in the plastic across the west doorway, the direction the strongest winds come from, for add extra security in preventing wind getting under that edge of the plastic. We did not bury the plastic edges in the soil, as that seemed difficult and we figured a large area would suffer less edge cooling/heat escape than a single bed.

Closing Up the Hoophouse for a Month

We closed the doors and windows and relaxed into enjoying a summer month off from harvesting in the hoophouse. We have made a list of infrastructure repairs, landscape care and, of course, the winter crop planning to do in t he next month. And we’ll be irrigating maybe twice a week and checking the soil thermometer periodically. It showed 80F last week, before we solarized.

Hoophouse solarization at Dripping Springs Garden, Arkansas.
Photo Pam Dawling

More Resources on Solarizing

eOrganic’s Organic Vegetable Production Systems Topics list offers publications on plant disease management, weed management and management of soil-borne pathogens using Anaerobic Soil Disinfestation. Here’s a 2025 webinar about On-farm Anaerobic Soil Disinfestation for the Management of Soilborne Pathogens in High Tunnel Production Systems:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pEf26ae6XI

The University of California Solarization site and their Small and Organic Farm Advisor have good information, including some in Spanish and Hmong

More Resources on Nematodes

I’ve written here before about our struggles with root knot nematodes in our hoophouse, and you can read everything I know about nematodes in the Year-Round Hoophouse.

My article on nematodes in Growing for Market  in November 2014 describes our discovery of the beasties and our first attempts to deal with them. My most thorough blogpost about nematodes was for Mother Earth News  Managing Nematodes in the Hoophouse. It’s free for MEN members.

There is info on dealing with nematodes from Garry Ross in Hawaii, where nematodes are a fact of daily life, in my post Cold weather, snow, thinking about nematodes from February 2015.

Unusual Crop for August: Kohlrabi

Harvested kohlrabi, Early White Vienna and Early Purple Vienna.
Photo McCune Porter

Unusual Crop for August: Kohlrabi

 In May I wrote about Peanuts

In June I wrote about Bug-Resistant Summer Squash Substitutes

In July I wrote about Squash Blossoms and Other Edible Flowers

Much of this information comes from my book Sustainable Market Farming 2nd Edition.

This month, I’m writing about kohlrabi, an eye-catching and very storable brassica crop. Kohlrabi can be grown in central Virginia where I live in spring and in fall. In cooler climates it can be grown in summer, and in warmer ones through the winter. The winter-kill temperature for kohlrabi grown in the open, with no protection, is 15°F (–9.5°C), similar to red chard, Russian kales, and some varieties of beet, broccoli, cabbage. Kohlrabi production is like that of other brassicas, and the methods of cultivation and harvesting are very similar.

Kohlrabi is an unusual crop that is sure to attract attention at your market booth or be a discussion piece in CSA bags, in your garden and on your table. It is a swollen stem base, with leaves individually sprouting from the globe. When the tap root and leaves are trimmed off, it resembles a sputnik (the first manufactured Earth satellite, in 1957). It is tender and crunchy with a flavor between a cabbage and a turnip. It’s easy to grow and doesn’t wilt as soon as you harvest it. It can be eaten raw (sliced or grated) or cooked, and the leaves can also be cooked and eaten. It stores well, offering flexibility about when it is eaten or sold, which is always an advantage for growers.

Kohlrabi can be direct sown or transplanted, whichever suits you best.

Kohlrabi Crop Requirements

Brassicas grow best on fertile well-drained soil with adequate moisture. They require a lot of potassium, so a sprinkling of wood ash, kelp meal, or granite dust could be helpful if your soil is a bit short of potassium. Calcium, boron, iron, manganese, and molybdenum are also important for good brassica crops – healthy, biologically active soils can usually supply enough of all these. If not, amend as needed. Optimal growing temperatures for most brassicas are 60°F–65°F (15°C–18°C).

Green kohlrabi.
Photo Small Farm Central/Harvie

Cover Crops before Fall Kohlrabi

Because fall brassicas are transplanted in summer, it’s possible to grow another vegetable crop, or some good cover crops, earlier in the year. An overwintered cover crop mix of winter rye and crimson clover or hairy vetch could be disked in at flowering and followed by a short- term warm-weather cover such as buckwheat, soy, or southern peas, all before the fall kohlrabi. A spring-sown cover crop mix of bell beans (favas), barley, and oats does well before all fall brassicas at Roxbury Farm in New York, supplying all the nitrogen required by the brassicas, which are heavy nitrogen consumers. To minimize pests and diseases, don’t use brassica cover crops.

Rotations Including Brassicas

A rotation of 1 year in 4 is ideal for brassicas to avoid disease and pest buildup. When possible, plant one year’s brassicas at some distance from the previous year’s, rather than in adjacent plots. The spread of disease can be reduced by avoiding walking through wet crops and by controlling weeds in the brassica family, such as rock cress, pepperweed, garlic mustard, and wild rocket.

We always plant our kohlrabi in permanent raised beds as we cultivate these with a BCS walk-behind tiller and can work them a bit sooner than the flat fields, where we must wait for the soil to dry enough to use the tractor and disks.

Kohlrabi Varieties

Interest in kohlrabi is growing.I’m encouraged to see that Johnny’s now sells 7 varieties, Fedco has five, Baker Creek has 6 and High Mowing has 8!

We like the open-pollinated Early White Vienna and Early Purple Vienna (58 days from sowing) and the purple hybrid Kolibri (45 days), which is more expensive but beautiful, quick-growing, and uniform. Purple varieties seem slightly more resistant to cabbage worm and also less susceptible to cracking. A mixture of the white (green) and purple colors looks very attractive, and they’re both white under the skin, so our strategy is to grow 25%–35% purple and mix them in; 4 g = about 1,275 seeds, sows 135′ (41 m). 5,500–9,000 (avg. 6,500) seeds/oz, (200–320, average 230 seeds/g).

Superschmelz kohlrabi (60 days from transplanting) can also be summer sown for fall harvest. It produces 8″–10″ (20–25 cm) bulbs, which are an attractive globe shape and remain tender. The world record (variety not disclosed) weighed almost 97 lbs (44 kg), leaves included.

Kossak (80d to maturity) is a good storage variety that maintains its sweet, delicious, and tender dense white flesh in storage for 2–4 months.

The other type of kohlrabi is the slower-growing giant winter storage variety, such as Gigante (130 days from sowing in spring for late fall harvest). It regularly exceeds 10″ (25 cm) in diameter and 10 lbs (4.5 kg) in weight. Gigante’s crisp, white, mildly tangy flesh doesn’t get woody even when it gets enormous.

A September sowing of kohlrabi. Too late in the year to thin and grow to full-size, kohlrabi makes good salad and microgreens. Photo Bridget Aleshire

How Much Kohlrabi to Grow

We grow 360 row feet (110 m) of fall kohlrabi for a hundred people. We sow in mid-late July, and transplant around July 29–August 12 at 8″ (20 cm) apart in the row, with 9″–10″ (23–25 cm) between rows – 4 rows in a 48″ (1.2 m) wide bed. If direct sowing, you could sow in drills or in stations (groups of several seeds sown at the final crop spacing).

Systems for Growing Kohlrabi Transplants

The same systems you use for growing transplants in spring may also work well for fall: flats, cell-packs, outdoor nursery beds. We use an outdoor nursery seedbed and bare-root transplants because this suits us best. The nursery bed is near our daily work area so we’ll pass by and water it. (Our greenhouse is off to one side of our gardens.) We’re always relieved to close the greenhouse transplant season in May, as we no longer need to water little plants many times each day to keep them alive. Having the seedlings directly in the soil drought-proofs them to some extent; they can form deep roots and don’t dry out so fast.

Other people manage fine with flats in June and July, but we avoid it. If you use flats, it can help to have them on benches in an enclosed shadehouse, or outdoors, above the height of flea beetles. Ira Wallace of Southern Exposure Seed Exchange tells me 3′ (1 m) is high enough. Richard Jones, in his book Beetles, says flea beetles can jump at least 100 times their body length.

For our seedbeds, we use insect netting (ProtekNet) on wire hoops. In warm weather, I prefer netting against bugs because it lets in lots of air. Rowcover also protects against bugs, but provides less airflow, which can make the seedlings more likely to die of fungal diseases in hot weather.

Kohlrabi is a less-common brassica. This is Early Purple Vienna. Photo Kathryn Simmons

Germination of Kohlrabi Seeds

The most challenging part of producing fall brassicas is getting the seedlings growing well while the weather is hot. Unlike some cool-weather vegetables such as spinach, brassicas will germinate very well at high temperatures: the ideal is 77°F–85°F (25°C–29°C), but up to 95°F (35°C) works. Given enough water, summer seedlings will emerge in only 3 days. Once they have emerged, the challenge begins. As well as temperature and moisture in the right ranges, the seedlings need light (very plentiful in midsummer!), nutrients, good air-flow, and protection from bugs. Guarding the plants from bugs is the most challenging for us. We deal organically with flea beetles, harlequin bugs, and, sometimes, cabbage worms. Our main defenses are farmscaping and insect netting.

Search my previous posts for more on pest control. Brassica pests seem less interested in kohlrabi than in other brassicas, and as people are less likely to eat the leaves, there is room to tolerate a certain number of leaf-eating pests, while still having an attractive crop and a high enough yield.

“No visible brassicas” month

In an attempt to break the relentless lifecycle of the harlequin bugs, we now try to have a month from late June to late July with no brassicas visible in our garden. We make sure to mow down the spring broccoli trunks, the kale, and collards and harvest or pull up any other brassicas. We net new transplants and remove the netting a month later, allowing us to hoe and weed.

Brassica seedlings under Proteknet.
Photo by Bridget Aleshire

Timing for Fall Kohlrabi

Planting dates for fall crops can be exacting because the cooling weather slows down the plants’ growth, and a day or two delay in sowing date can mean a week or two delay in harvest date. Although it can be hard to think about sowing seeds in midsummer, it’s very worthwhile because brassicas develop delicious flavors as they mature in the cooler fall days,. Weeds and pests slow down then, too – once established these crops need little care.

The number of days to harvest given in seed catalogs is based on spring conditions – plants grow faster in warmer temperatures. To determine when to sow for fall plantings, start with your desired harvest date (noting when would be too late!), then subtract the number of days from seeding to transplant (21–28), plus the number of days from transplanting to harvest for that variety (given in the catalog description), plus the length of your ideal harvest period and another 14 days for the slowing rate of plant growth in fall compared to spring.

Example: Early White Vienna Kohlrabi, 58 days from sowing to harvest in ideal weather.

  • Consult https://weatherspark.com to estimate when it will get too cold in your location to leave kohlrabi in the ground. Here, in winter-hardiness zone 7a, our average annual minimum temp is 0°F-5°F (-15°C to -17.7°C), although most winters don’t reach those temperatures for very long. Our average winter low is about 25°F – 32°F (-4°C to 0°C).
  • Kohlrabi is hardy to 15°F (–9.4°C). The temperature is not likely to drop to 15°F (-9.4°C) before the beginning of December here.
  • Adding 40% more time, allowing 80 days, we could sow kohlrabi in early August and get a crop at the end of October.
  • Or mid-August for early November.
  • Or early September for the end of November or very beginning of December.
  • If you sow too late, use the seedlings for salad. Kohlrabi also makes a good microgreens crop.

Sowing Kohlrabi Seeds

Our rough formula for all transplanted fall brassicas is to divide our final crop row length by our in-row plant spacing and then sow extra to be sure of having enough good ones on transplant day. For kohlrabi to be planted 8″ (20cm) apart, to plant 360’ (110 m) we’ll need 540 perfectly lovely transplants.

We aim to sow 3 seeds/inch (1 cm apart). We make two sowings one week apart, to ensure we have enough plants of the right size. Each week after the first sowing, we weed the previously sown plants, and thin them to 1″ (2.5 cm) apart. We resow to make up the numbers if germination is low.

Young kohlrabi plants.
Photo Kathryn Simmons

Transplanting Kohlrabi

We aim to transplant most brassicas at four true leaves (3–4 weeks after sowing). It is better to transplant crops at a younger age in hot weather than you would in spring because larger plants can wilt from high transpiration losses. If we find ourselves transplanting older plants, we remove a couple of the older leaves to reduce these losses.

We transplant in late afternoon or early evening. We water the soil in the plot if it is dry, because it is very important at this time of year to get adequate water to the plants undergoing the stress of being transplanted. Likewise, good transplanting technique is vital. With drip irrigation, you can more easily give a little water in the middle of each day, which will help cool the roots. With only overhead sprinklers, you may not have the option of watering every day.

Bed of young kohlrabi. Kathryn Simmons

Kohlrabi Harvest

Harvest storage kohlrabi while the anchor (tap) root is still round, before it begins to elongate. We harvest our Vienna kohlrabi from October 20 to November 15. For storage cut off the tuft of leaves at the top of the plant and also the wiry root. It’s easiest to cut a disc off the bulb rather than try to cut through at the point between the bulb and the wire, where it is very tough.

Kohlrabi Winter Storage 

Kohlrabi can be stored in a refrigerator or refrigerator-like conditions such as a CoolBot, 32°F–40°F (0°C–5°C), 80%–95% humidity. Basically Cold & Moist. Kohlrabi stores well in perforated plastic bags in a walk-in cooler. In a plentiful year, we have eaten stored kohlrabi throughout the winter into early spring.

Front cover of Beyond the Root Cellar book by Sam Knapp
Cover of Beyond the Root Cellar by Sam Knapp

 

A Few More Good Resources for Storage Information

Book Review: Africulture by Michael Carter Jr


Africulture: How the Principles, Practices, Plants and People of African Descent have Shaped Agriculture

by Michael Carter Jr. Chelsea Green, 2026. 308 pages, $22.95 US, $40.00 CAN, 22.95 GBP.

As a fellow Virginian, I am honored to offer praise for Michael Carter’s new book, Africulture.  I enjoyed his account of his family’s farming history. Mr. Carter shares five generations of Black farming experience and reminds those of us who need reminding, that without African farming experience, white immigrants like me would not have survived long in the American colonies.

With inspiring bios of prominent Black farmers and educators, Africulture presents an uplifting message and encouragement to other farmers, especially Black farmers. I value Mr Carter’s work to preserve civil rights, and his determination to raise awareness of the painful history of Black people in the US, including segregation, Jim Crow, lynching and resistance. I learned a lot more Black history from reading this book. I’m not including it in this review as I imagine many of you already know a lot more than I do about that.

Mr Carter tells us: “The average age of a farmer in Virginia is fifty-nine, but for Black farmers it’s sixty-three. Between 2017 and 2022, Virginia lost 10 percent of its farmers and 20 percent of its Black farmers. The state is losing Black producers at a higher rate than any other demographic.”

“The amount of land lost by Black farmers and families in the last sixty years is, I dare say, a sin to our ancestors who made it their sole mission to acquire land between 1865 and 1965. I’m a benefactor of my ancestors’ efforts and I refuse to let go of what was sacrificed by my grandfather and his brothers with their World War II checks.”

He writes in a very lively, readable style, using stages of plant growth: Seeds, Soil, Roots, Compost, Leaves, True Leaves, Pestilence and Resistance (plants and people), Flowering, Fruit as metaphors of Black farming history. His work includes Principles of Africulture, using limited inputs: reuse materials your farm provides, properly dispose of whatever waste ends up on your hands; use sustainable organic practices, co-operate on marketing and training, and strengthen future generations of Black farmers.

The Carter Family in Ghana

Michael Carter and his immediate family spent 5 years living and working in west African countries, especially Ghana, 2012-2017, before returning to his family’s farm in Virginia. Living in Ghana changed the Carter family’s perspective. The Carters were regarded factually, as obroni, people from the horizon, or white men. Skin color was not seen as the major identifier, but foreignness was.

Vegetables and fruits were bought fresh daily, and cooking dinner required full attention, dedication and love. There were lots of leafy greens, including Nigerian spinach (Celosia argentea), gboma (Solanum macrocarpon) (the g is silent), Alefe (Amaranthus cruentus), nkotomere (cocoyam leaf/taro leaf /elephant ear, Colocasia esculenta), water leaf/boko boko/fame flower (Talinum paniculatum) and ayoyo/jute leaf (Corchorus olitorius), which I wrote about in June 2025 as Molokhia (pronounced “mo-lo-HEY-ah”), Egyptian Spinach.

The Ghanaians have a very well-developed understanding of the medicinal value of plants.

Food Crops from Africa

From May to September the Virginia climate is like the rainy season in West Africa. I appreciate the descriptions of tasty African crops that might be useful in central Virginia for climate change resilience. To grow Ghanaian crops, we need to choose those with shorter growing cycles. Our season is too short for the tree crops or annuals needing 6-9 hot months to maturity.

Virginia can grow amaranth, Nigerian spinach, managu, molokhia, okra, sorghum, millet and cocoyam, all sown in the continental US after Mothers’ Day, the second weekend in May. Soil temperatures should be 70°F-75°F (21°C24°C). Their roots grow deep, enabling them to be drought tolerant, and helping provide more trace minerals. A bonus is that deer don’t seem to like these greens.

Several African greens also have ornamental relatives, but the green-leaved versions are preferred for eating. I don’t know why. The greens need to be stewed well over a high heat with palm oil and egusi (seeds of specific melons). Taro tubers and leaves need careful cooking.

“Two African crops—sweet potato greens and Nigerian spinach—contain some of the same nutrients as kale, but they are dependent more on the fungal network to supply their nutrient needs. Their content of manganese and some other micronutrients is higher than that of kale.” Clif Slade says, on selling the leaves of sweet potato plants: “You can talk about doubling your money. . .  There’s $20,000 per acre in the [sweet potato] leaves with the right market, and eating them can help control blood pressure.  Large amounts of sweet potato leaves can be fed to livestock. And at Virginia Tech, they’re pelletizing the stems and feeding tilapia.”

First Leaves

The “First Leaves” chapter has information on rice, cotton, indigo, peanuts, cocoa, vanilla, coffee, honey and kola, and several leading Black farmers. It was here I learned more about my “sweet potato hero” Dr George Washington Carver. I immigrated from a climate too cold to grow sweet potatoes, so I knew nothing. This was pre-internet, and I was thrilled to find a photocopy of Dr Carver’s 1936 publication “How the Farmer Can Save His Sweet Potatoes, and [32] Ways of Preparing Them for The Table.” I had not understood properly how to cure sweet potatoes before storing them. Gratitude to Dr Carver! Dr Carver was even more famous for his work with peanuts. Did you know that boiling peanuts preserves them for several days without refrigeration?

Dr Carver also designed a mobile demonstration lab called the Jessop Wagon, which was used to take information out to remote rural areas of Alabama and provide information for farmers. He wrote “It has always been the one ideal of my life to be of the greatest good to the greatest number of my people possible, and to this end I have been preparing myself for these many years, feeling as I do that this line of education is the key.”

Dr Booker T Washington was born into slavery in 1854 and walked 500 miles to enroll in the Hampton Institute in SE Virginia at the age of 16. His dedication to education, community building and Pan-Africanism was huge. Dr Washington became the first principal of Tuskegee University in Alabama, where the students and local community hand built the collage, including making the bricks, sewing their own sheets and growing their own food.

Dr W E B Du Bois wanted the Talented Tenth, the most capable Black students, to receive the best education and so serve as a think tank and group of leaders for the Black community. He is more widely known as a highbrow intellectual rather than a rural pragmatist like Dr Carver and Dr Washington. Later he developed a wider understanding of the needs of Black farmers.

Mr Tetteh Quarshie, a Ghanaian blacksmith, established the commercial cocoa industry in Ghana in 1879, and export began in the 1890s. Cocoa is native to central America, and became cultivated in Africa, especially Ghana, in the early-mid-1800s.

Vanilla was much coveted by the Europeans, who had no success getting it to grow. 300 years later, someone figured out that a very specific pollinating bee that was only found in Mexico was needed. The French shipped seeds to their colonies off the coast of Africa, Réunion and Mauritius. 21 years later, a 12-year-old enslaved African boy, Edmond Albius, used hand pollination, smashing the anther sac and stigma together between his fingers, solving the problem.

Watermelon was one of the best cash crops for Black farmers in the South, easy to grow, easy to transport, kept well in its skin. This superfood is a great hydrator and a nutritional powerhouse. But watermelon was heavily denigrated as poor people’s food, and disrespected, cast as bad, backward, food for country bumpkins.

Our Genes are Made of What our Ancestors Ate.

African crops grown in American soil by enslaved Africans with African expertise helped sustain the colonizing immigrants. Our bodies are made of the food we eat. Our lineage reflects the foods of our ancestors, which may have come from other continents.

Three quarters of the British colony of Jamestown died of disease and malnutrition between 1609-1610, despite eating rats, snakes and their own dead neighbors. They had refused to follow local foodways, instead trying to grow cool weather UK crops. White settlers in 1619, when the white population had been reduced to 12% of its size, decided they would need to enslave Black people to grow their food. Some of the enslaved people arrived with leftover food stores, and the African crops grew well in the SE US, but in the Midwest, 50 years of soil mismanagement led to the Dust Bowl. Ignorance and greed destroyed 6 feet (2m) of topsoil.

Racial Equity

Equity is not just about perceived treatment but includes discussions and ideas around shared ownership and control of resources. White European men have determined what resources they want and how to get them and control them. Financial equity is the value of an asset after the cost (debts, liabilities) have been subtracted. Equity depends on ownership and is a store of financial value. Social equity (including racial equity) is defined as justice, fairness and impartiality. It’s also a store of value for people, ownership in communities, controlling resources (not necessarily owning).

Black people sometimes risk their jobs, homes, freedom, even their lives, when dealing with white people. White people need to face being outside their comfort zone, to become educated in other cultures. This book seeks to improve people’s racial literacy around the bigger history of agriculture. Buy from local Black farmers and local Black businesses, and other enterprises of people of color.

The Fruits of the Ancestors, Legacy and the Future

Fruit is both the fulfillment of the plant’s growth and the container of the seeds to start the cycle again. A responsibility and a survival instinct. Plants share resources in the soil. When someone asks for help, try to give them a hand. Mr Carter gives space in his book for soil brothers and soil sisters.

Carter Farms and the Africulture non-profit

The Carter Farms land, purchased in 1910, was almost lost near the end of the 1920s, when it was used as collateral on a $636.40 debt. The stock market crash of 1929 meant the borrowers could not repay the cash. Of the ten siblings in that generation, Mrs Mattie Shirley Carter Pryor, one of the youngest, great-grandmother to Michael Carter Jr, was the key person who saved the land.

Michael Carter Jr went to North Carolina Agricultural and Technical State University, an HBCU, where students were encouraged towards employment in the USDA or the agriculture industry, not to be farmers. Carter was not interested in being a farmer. He was more interested in his minor, fashion design. It was many years before he regained his connection to the land.

When Mr Carter and his family returned from Ghana in 2017, he combined a job at the Virginia State University Small Farms Outreach program with selling African vegetables to restaurants.  He established the non-profit Africulture to focus on “the principles, practices, plants and people of African descent that have contributed to agriculture.

From Carter Farms in Orange County, Virginia, Michael Carter, Jr provides technical farming assistance, events and workshops on growing and marketing African and other specialty vegetables. The land around Carter Farms became an epicenter of Black landownership and cooperative economics, farmers helping each other buy land.

“Africulture became an official nonprofit in 2020. Small farmers found themselves in a unique situation that spring because of COVID-19. Small farmers across the country became a lifesaving force for families and communities, setting up farmers markets and driveway stands where customers could come and pick up produce, proteins, and value-added products during a time when entering a grocery store felt dangerous.”

Carter says “I wanted to use the Africulture platform to promote connections on many different levels. The African ideal that everything is connected always resonated with me, a stark contrast to the siloed, isolated, subjective thinking in most of the West. The connections among music, food, soil, agriculture, literature, meta- and quantum physics, nutrition, and mental health maybe aren’t normally seen, but they are made clear to me through my Africultural lens.”

Africulture appendices include a timeline of African American agriculture, incorporating that of the Carter family, some of whom arrived in the first generation of exiled Europeans reaching the US; a Carter Family Tree, with African, European and Native American roots; and a table of nutrient levels in crops at Carter Farms. There are chapter notes and a selected bibliography, and a 17-page index. There are 16 pages of color photos and several archival B&W images are seeded throughout.

More information

  • Michael Carter Jr has taught a course on Africulture at the University of Virginia.
  • The Black Family Land Trust (BFLT) based in Raleigh, NC, works as a conservation land trust, to keep Black families on their land in Virginia and several other states. “The Sixth Love Language – A Will.” Putting land in a family land trust can save a family from fighting. The Uniform Partition of Heirs Property Act 2020 helps prevent involuntary loss of family land.
  • Visit the Black Farmers Index (blackfarmersindex.com), the largest, FREE, most comprehensive directory of Black Farmers. The Index connects you to traditional and non-traditional growers, from row crop farmers, ranchers, vegetable and fruit producers to beekeepers, fisherfolk, foragers, vintners & more. There are 12 regional groups.
  • For those in Virginia, there’s also the VirginiaBlackFarmerdirecrtory.com.
  • Celebrate National Farmers’ Day in the US on October 12.
  • The Happily Natural Day Festival in Richmond, Virginia, is on Saturday Aug 29, 2026

Winter-Kill Temperatures of Cold-Hardy Vegetables 2025 revision

My scheduling program lost my post. Sorry. I won’t use that one again.

Here’s my table of winter-kill temperatures of cold-hardy vegetables (2025 revision). Not a lot has changed in the past year. This is the time of year to plan winter crops and even start them (apart from leeks and parsnips, which need sowing in spring).

I’ve added a few other resources people often want when planning winter crops: Four Ranges of Cold Hardiness; Rowcover Notes; Hoophouse Notes; Cold-Hardy Lettuce.

I compiled this as a handout to accompany my presentation for the Seedtime Winter Garden Challenge event.

Winter Garden Challenge Handout   

© Pam Dawling 2026.  Twin Oaks Community, Central Virginia (zone 7a)

Author of Sustainable Market Farming, 2nd edition and The Year-Round Hoophouse.

SustainableMarketFarming.com

Overwintered Acadia spinach, with weeds, March 16, Pam Dawling

Winter-Kill Temperatures of Cold-Hardy Vegetables 2025 revision

Here are some starting numbers of outdoor killing temperatures of unprotected crops (except where stated). Note that repeated cold temperatures can kill off crops that can survive a single dip to a low temperature, and that cold winds, or cold wet weather can destroy plants quicker than simple cold.  All greens do a lot better with protection against cold drying winds.  Your own experience with your soils, microclimates and rain levels may lead you to use different temperatures in your crop planning. This version includes cover crops.

  • 35°F (2°C): Basil
  • 32°F (0°C): Bush beans, cauliflower curds, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, lima beans, melons, okra, some pak choy, peanuts, peppers, potato vines, southern peas, squash vines, sweet potato vines, tomatoes.
  • 27°F (–3°C): Many cabbages, sugarloaf chicory (takes only light frosts)
  • 25°F (–4°C): Some cabbages, chervil, chicory roots for chicons and hearts, Chinese Napa cabbage (Blues), dill (Fernleaf), some fava beans (Windsor), annual fennel, some mustards and Asian greens (Red Giant, Southern Curled, maruba santoh, mizuna, most pak choy), some onion scallions (many varieties are hardier), radicchio, rhubarb stems and leaves.
  • 22°F (–6°C): Some arugula (some varieties are hardier), Bright Lights chard, some endive, large leaves of lettuce (protected hearts and small plants will survive colder temperatures).
  • 20°F (–7°C): Some beets (Bulls Blood, Chioggia), broccoli heads (maybe OK to 15°F/−9.5°C), some Brussels sprouts, some cabbages (the insides may still be good even if the outer leaves are damaged), celeriac, celtuce (stem lettuce), some collards (Georgia Cabbage Collards, variegated collards), some head lettuce, some mustards and Asian greens (Tendergreen, Tokyo bekana, Tyfon Holland greens), flat leaf parsley, radicchio (both Treviso and Chioggia), radishes (Cherry Belle), most turnips (Noir d’Hiver is the most cold-tolerant variety). Canadian (spring) field peas are hardy to 10-20°F (–12 to –7°C).

    Georgia Cabbage Collards Photo Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
  • Large oat plants will get serious cold damage, and oats seedlings die at 17°F (–8°C).
  • 15°F (–9.5°C): Some beets (Albina Verduna, Lutz Winterkeeper), beet greens, some broccoli, some cabbages (Kaitlin, Tribute), some cauliflower leaves, rowcovered celery (Ventura), red chard, cilantro, some fava beans (Aquadulce Claudia), Russian kales, kohlrabi, some lettuces (Marvel of Four Seasons, Rouge d’Hiver, Winter Density), especially small plants with 4–10 leaves, curly parsley, rutabagas (American Purple Top Yellow, Laurentian), broad leaf sorrel, most covered turnips, winter cress.
  • 12°F (–11°C): Some beets (Cylindra,), some broccoli, some Brussels sprouts, some cabbages (January King, Savoy types), carrots (Danvers, Oxheart), most collards, some fava beans (mostly cover crop varieties), garlic tops if fairly large, Koji greens, most fall or summer varieties of leeks (Lincoln, King Richard), large tops of potato onions, covered rutabagas, senposai leaves – the core of the plant may survive 10°F (–12°C), Purple Top turnips.
  • 10°F (–12°C): Covered beets, Purple Sprouting broccoli for spring harvest, a few cabbages (Deadon), green chard (hardier than other colors), some collards (Morris Heading), Belle Isle upland cress, some endive (Perfect, President), young bronze fennel, Blue Ridge kale, probably komatsuna, some leeks (American Flag, Jaune du Poiteau), some covered lettuce (Pirat, Red Salad Bowl, Salad Bowl, Sylvesta, Winter Marvel), covered Asian winter radish (Daikon, China Rose, Shunkyo Semi-Long survive 10°F/–12°C), big leaves of savoyed spinach (more hardy than flat leafed varieties), tatsoi, Yukina Savoy. Aprovecho Hardy turnip is hardy to 8°F (–13°C) and Ice-Bred White Egg is hardy to 6°F (–14°C), many Even’ Star greens varieties are OK down to 6°F (−14°C), Oats cover crop of a medium size die around 10°F (–12°C). Large oats will die completely at 6°F (–17°C) or even milder.

    Morris Heading collards.
    Photo Kathryn Simmons
  • 5°F (–15°C): Garlic tops even if small, some kale (Dazzling Blue, Winterbor, Westland Winter), some leeks (Bulgarian Giant, Tadorna), some unprotected small lettuces (Winter Marvel, Tango, North Pole, Green Forest), some bulb onions (Walla Walla), multiplier onions if not well-mulched, smaller leaves of savoyed spinach and broad leaf sorrel.
  • 0°F (–18°C): Chives, some collards (Blue Max, McCormack’s Green Glaze, Winner), corn salad (mâche), garlic, horseradish, Jerusalem artichokes, Even’ Star Ice-Bred Smooth Leaf kale, a few leeks (Alaska, Durabel), some bulb onions, mulched yellow potato onions, some onion scallions (Evergreen Hardy White, White Lisbon), parsnips (probably even colder), salad burnet, salsify, some spinach (Bloomsdale Savoy, Long Standing Bloomsdale, Olympia).
  • Walla Walla onions sown in late summer are said to be hardy down to –10°F (–23°C), but I don’t trust below 0°F (–18°C)
  • Crimson clover is hardy down to 0°F (–18°C) or perhaps as cold as –10°F (–23°C)

    Vates kale – our winter outdoor favorite.
    Photo Bridget Aleshire
  • –5°F (–19°C): Vates kale survives although some leaves may be too damaged to use. Lacinato Rainbow Mix kale may survive.
  • –10°F (–23°C) Austrian Winter Field Peas and Crimson clover (used as cover crops).
  • –15°F (-26°C) Hairy vetch cover crop – some say down to 30°F (34°C)
  • –20°F (–29°C) Dutch White clover cover crops – or even 30°F (34°C)
  • –30°F to –40°F (–34°C to –40°C): Narrow leaf sorrel, claytonia and some cabbages (January King) are said to be hardy in zone 3. I have no personal experience of this.
  • –40°F (–40°C) Winter wheat and winter rye (cover crops).

Four Ranges of Cold Hardiness

  1. Crops to harvest before frosty weather (32°-25°F) and use or store 
  2. Crops to keep alive in the ground into winter to 22°-15°F (-6°C to -9°C), then harvest to use or store.

Use Soon: Asian greens, broccoli, cabbage, chard, lettuce, radishes

Store: Beets, cabbage, carrots, celeriac, kohlrabi, winter radish (including daikon), rutabagas, turnips

  1. Hardy crops to store in the ground and harvest during the winter. In zone 7, they need to be hardy to 0°-10°F  (-17.8°C to -12.3°C): Collards, horseradish, Jerusalem artichokes, kale, leeks, parsnips, scallions, spinach
  2. Overwinter crops for spring/early summer harvests before the main season: Cabbage, carrots, chard, collards, garlic and garlic scallions, kale, multiplier onions (potato onions), scallions, spinach

    Garlic scallions in April.
    Photo Kathryn Simmons

Rowcover Notes

Rowcovers on hoops will help keep crops marketable, by improving the microclimate for better growth rate. Thick rowcover (Typar, 1,25 oz/sq yd) can keep crops 6F degrees, 3C degrees warmer. Hoops prevent crops freezing onto the rowcover. Polypro outlasts polyester. Consider Quick Hoops and caterpillar tunnels if they suit your climate and crops.

Closing rowcovers after a winter spinach harvest.
Photo Wren Vile

Hoophouse Notes

In a double-layer hoophouse (staying 8F/5C warmer than outside at night) plants can survive 14F/8C colder than they can outside, without extra rowcover; with thick rowcover (1.25 oz Typar/Xavan) at least 21F/12C colder than outside without. Salad greens in a hoophouse in zone 7 can survive nights with outdoor lows of 14°F (-10°C). Lettuce, mizuna, turnips, Russian kales, senposai, spinach, tatsoi, yukina savoy survived a hoophouse temperature of 10.4°F (-12°C) without rowcover, -2.2°F (-19°C) with; Bright Lights chard got frozen leaf stems. We only add rowcover when the outdoor low is forecast to be 8°F (–13°C) or lower.

Hoophouse mizuna harvest in January. Photo Wren Vile

Cold-Hardy Lettuce

Lettuce varieties for a solar-heated winter greenhouse or hoophouse in zone 7a: (hardiest are in bold) Buckley, Ezrilla, Green Forest, Green Star, Hampton, Hyper Red Rumple Waved, Marvel of Four Seasons, Merlot, New Red Fire, North Pole, Oscarde, Outredgeous, Pirat, Red Cross, Red Sails, Red Salad Bowl, Red Tinged Winter, Revolution, Rouge d’Hiver, Salad Bowl, Sylvesta, Tango, Winter Marvel, Winter Wonderland.

Lettuce Mix in our hoophouse 20 December. Photo Pam Dawling

Particularly cold-hardy for outdoors:  Brune d’Hiver, Buckley, Ezrilla, Green Forest, Hampton, Lollo Rossa, Merlot, North Pole, Red Tinged Winter, Revolution, Rouge d’Hiver, Tango, Winter Marvel.

Cold-tolerant outdoor early spring lettuces: Buckley, Crawford, Green Forest, Hampton, Merlot, New Red Fire, Revolution, Simpson Elite, Susan’s Red Bibb and Swordleaf.

Early spring lettuce Ezrilla. This variety also does well in the winter with some protection.

Winter Gardening Challenge

Digging compost into our coldframes for a winter spinach crop.
Photo Wren Vile

Winter Gardening Challenge

The Seedtime annual free Winter Gardening Challenge is just around the corner!
Dates: Sunday July 19-Wednesday July 22 2026

Time: 7:00 PM CDT every evening (with additional sessions at 10am (paid), 12pm and 3pm (free). It kicks off Sunday 7/19 at 7pm Central (8pm Eastern, 6pm Mountain, 5pm Pacific).

If you’re out in the garden right now, sweating through the heat, and you’d love to still be picking fresh food out of your yard once the frost hits, take a look at this.

A free, 4-day, live online Winter Gardening Challenge, hosted by Edwin and Paul Dysinger, the father and son team behind Seedtime, on how to keep a continual harvest of fresh food through the winter. With optional additional paid morning sessions.

Over-wintered Acadia spinach emerging undamaged from under the ice and snow. Ken Bezilla

Over the four days, Paul and Edwin (with co-host Luke Hammond and an awesome line up of guest speakers) will walk you through how to keep fresh food coming out of your garden all the way through winter. Yes, even when there’s snow on the ground, with the right cold-hardy crops and protection to hold off the cold.

And because it’s live, you can ask your real questions and build your winter garden plan right alongside them, so you walk away with an actual plan you can put in the ground, not just a pile of notes.

This year The Winter Gardening Challenge has three of the most respected fall and winter growers around joining them to teach, live:

Melissa K. Norris, the voice behind the Pioneering Today podcast and a fifth-generation homesteader who teaches people to grow, preserve, and cook their own food, will present Your Climate-Based Plan, choosing crops for your location and season, how to choose the right winter growing strategy based on climate + goals + tools available (none, row covers only, tunnels/hoophouse) on Monday at noon Central (1pm Eastern, 11 am Mountain, 10 am Pacific).

Pam Dawling, who wrote the book Sustainable Market Farming and grew food year-round managing a 3.5 acre garden for 25 years. I’m presenting Habits of a Winter Gardener (Temperature thresholds, frost strategies, crop-specific protection) on Tuesday at noon Central (1pm Eastern, 11 am Mountain, 10 am Pacific).

Nicole Burke, founder of Gardenary, who has helped so many people start a kitchen garden that actually feeds their family, is presenting Timing and Crop Selection (Fall & Shoulder Season success) on Wednesday at noon Central (1pm Eastern, 11 am Mountain, 10 am Pacific).

Every one of them is showing up live to help you grow through the winter. You get to be in the room, ask your questions, and learn from people who have actually been doing this year after year.

It’s completely free to join.

Save my spot
Takes about 10 seconds.

Overwintered Acadia spinach, weeds, March 16, Pam Dawling

Grow your best cool season garden ever.
Act fast because this event is coming up right around the corner!
On registration, users have the option to purchase the replays and VIP experience for $19 plus some optional bump and upsell offers.