There are several aspects of vegetable harvesting. In this post I will look first at maturity indicators, then at four ranges of cold-hardy crops for harvest at various stages of winter, followed by a reminder of the order for harvesting storable crops, according to the coldest temperature they can take. After that I have links to a couple of other websites with great information on these topics, a mention of two articles on seed saving and one on garlic planting I have in Growing for Market magazine. And a link to a Mother Earth News Fair Online workshop on establishing winter cover crops.
Harvest and Maturity Indicators
Don’t harvest too soon or too late. How do you know when it’s ready to harvest? Different factors are important for different crops. Use all your senses.
- Size: Cow Horn okra at 5”/13 cm (others shorter), green beans a bit thinner than a pencil, carrots at whatever size you like, 7”/18 cm asparagus, 6”/15 cm zucchini
- Color: Garden Peach tomatoes with a pink flush. The “ground spot” of a watermelon turns from greenish white to buttery yellow at maturity, and the curly tendrils where the stem meets the melon to turn brown and dry. For market you may harvest “fruit” crops a bit under-ripe
- Shape: cucumbers that are rounded out, not triangular in cross-section, but not blimps. Sugar Ann snap peas get completely round before they reach peak sweetness.
- Softness or texture: eggplants that “bounce back” when lightly squeezed, snap beans that are crisp with pliable tips. Harvest most muskmelons when the stem separates easily from the fruit (“Full slip”).
- Skin toughness: storage potatoes when the skins don’t rub off, usually two weeks after the tops die, whether naturally or because of mowing.
- Sound: watermelons sound like your chest not your head or your belly when thumped. Try the “Scrunch Test” – press down firmly on the melon and listen and feel for the separation of the ripe flesh inside the melon.
Cabbages are fully mature when the head is firm and the outer leaf on the head is curling back. Ignore the separate “wrapper leaves” when making this judgment. If you need to keep mature cabbage in the ground a few days longer, twist the heads to break off some of the feeder roots and limit water uptake, and they will be less likely to split.
Select blue-green broccoli heads and harvest them before the flower buds open, but after they’ve enlarged. We press down with finger-tips and spread our fingers to see if the head is starting to loosen.
Sweet corn will be ready to harvest about three weeks after the first silks appear. Corn is ready when the ears fill to the end with kernels and the silks become brown and dry. An opaque, milky juice will seep out of punctured kernels. You can use your thumbnails to cur through the husk on the side and view the kernels. Don’t make your cut on top of the ear, or the dew and rain will get in and rot the corn.
Garlic is ready to harvest when the sixth leaf down is starting to brown on 50% of the crop. See Ron Engeland’s Growing Great Garlic. Harvesting too early means smaller bulbs (harvesting way too early means an undifferentiated bulb and lots of wrappers that then shrivel up). Harvesting too late means the bulbs may “shatter” or have an exploded look, and not store well.
Cut across hardneck garlic – airspaces around the stem show maturity
Wait until the tops fall over to harvest, then gently dig up the whole plant and dry. Leave the dry, papery outer skin on the onion for protection.
Four Ranges of Cold-Hardy Crops for Harvest at Various Stages of Winter
- Crops to keep alive into winter to 22°-15°F (-6°C to -9°C), then harvest. Harvest and use soon: Asian greens, broccoli, cabbage, chard, lettuce, radishes. Harvest and store: beets, cabbage, carrots, celeriac, kohlrabi, winter radish (including daikon), rutabagas, turnips. Many greens and roots can survive some freezing, so it is worth experimenting to find how late you can keep crops outdoors.
- Hardy winter-harvest crops: cabbage (Deadon), carrots, collards, kale, leeks, parsnips, scallions, spinach. We grow our winter-harvest crops in our raised bed area, which is more accessible in winter and more suited to small quantities.
- Overwinter crops for spring harvests before the main season. Some crops, if kept alive through the winter, will start to grow again with the least hint of spring weather and be harvestable earlier than spring plantings. Depending on your climate, the list can include carrots, chard, chicories such as radicchio and sugarloaf, chives, collards, garlic, garlic scallions, kale, lettuce, multiplier onions (potato onions), scallions, spinach. In mild areas, peas can be fall sown for a spring crop. Sow 1″ (2.5 cm) apart to allow for extra losses.
- Winter hoophouse crops: The rate of growth of cold-weather crops is much faster inside a hoophouse than outdoors. The crop quality, especially with leafy greens, is superb. Plants can tolerate lower temperatures than outdoors; they have warmer soil around their roots, and the pleasant daytime conditions in which to recover. Salad greens in a hoophouse can survive nights with outdoor lows of 14°F (–10°C) without inner rowcover.
In my post Root Crops in October, I gave this list of storable crops in the order for harvesting, related to how cold they can survive.
Clear and store (in this order):
- Sweet potatoes 50°F (10°C)
- “White” Peruvian potatoes 32°F (0°C) approximately
- Celeriac 20°F (°C)
- Turnips 20°F (°C)
- Winter radish 20°F (°C)
- Beets 15-20°F (°C)
- Kohlrabi, 15°F (°C)
- Carrots 12° F (°C)
- Parsnips 0°F (°C)
Here are some links to a couple of good sources for more harvest information:
- Piedmont Master Gardeners Garden Shed Newsletter
Guidelines for Harvesting Vegetables by Pat Chadwick
A list of seven basic principles of harvesting, followed by a crop-by-crop list of almost 50 individual crops and a resource list of 18 publications (focused on the mid-Atlantic and Southeast)
- October Tips from Harvest to Table, by Steve Albert covers all climate zones and comes complete with a USDA Hardiness Zone Map
Prepare your garden for colder weather, plant winter crops where there is still time, harvest crops that will suffer from cold, construct low tunnels with rowcover or clear plastic to keep crops somewhat protected from wind and cold temperatures
Links to other posts by Steve Albert
How to Prepare a Winter Vegetable Garden
Predicting Frost in the Garden
Growing for Market articles
Harvesting seeds this fall?
I have written articles for Growing for Market magazine about growing and saving seeds (August and September issues), and planting garlic (October issue).
Given the shortages of some varieties this spring, it wouldn’t surprise us if more people tried producing seeds of vegetable or flower varieties this year. Here are links to articles from the August and September magazines, covering wet and dry seed processing.
Wet seed processing and saving
Wet seeds are embedded in fruit. Wet processing has four steps: scooping out the seeds or mashing the fruit, fermenting the seed pulp for several days, washing the seeds and removing the pulp and then drying the washed seeds.
Read the article “Wet seed processing and saving”
Dry seed processing and saving
Dry seeds develop in pods, husks or ears, and dry on the plant rather than inside a fruit. While you obviously want to get seeds into the hands of growers before they need to plant, and into seed catalogs before they get printed, often there is no urgency to extract the dry-seeded crops from their pods. You can wait for a slower time, or use seed cleaning as a rainy-day job.
Read the article “Dry seed processing and saving”
I have a workshop on Winter Cover Crops for Gardeners as part of the Mother Earth News Fair Online Winter Gardening Course. The Winter Gardening Course features 7 videos, each 21-44 minutes long. Mine’s 32 minutes on cover crops.
You can enroll for the 8-course Winter Gardening Course for $20.
Or choose the 2020 all-access course bundle of 21 courses (over 100 videos) for $150.
4 thoughts on “Vegetable harvests, articles on seed saving and garlic planting, workshop on cover crops.”
Hello Pam, would appreciate any tips on when to harvest dry beans. I am growing Turkey Craw this year (pole) and unsure whether I need to wait for the pods to be thin and dry-ish, or if they should still have some heft. And if the latter is it best the to let the pods finish drying indoors, or shell the beans and let them dry? Thank you
According to Nancy Bubel, in The Seed Starter’s Handbook, bean seed is ready when your teeth can scarcely make a dent in a sample bean. Maturing happens fast in a hoophouse. I agree with Pat Chadwick. We generally have harvested southern peas when the pods are dry (papery) or almost dry, then spread them on racks in a barn to finish drying, before bagging up. We do the threshing later, at our convenience. My notion is that the seeds are mature when the pods are dry, but harvesting a little early and keeping them in the pods allows the seed to finish maturing. I would not shell them out until the pods are thoroughly dry. You might just get wrinkly beans with poor germination of vigor. But I haven’t tested it out.
Thank you for the add’l idea to not shell until the pods re thoroughly dry!
and voila, I found the answer in the Guidelines for Harvesting Vegetables by Pat Chadwick, for which you provided the link (Thank you, thank you):
Beans (Dry): Harvest mature pole or bush beans in the autumn as the pods begin to dry out and turn yellow. Pull or snip the pods from the vine. Spread them out on a flat surface indoors for 2 to 4 weeks to finish drying. Once the pods feel completely dry and the beans inside are hard and shiny, shell out the beans and store for use later.
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