
Photo Wren Vile
Winter Gardening Challenge
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Winter Gardening Challenge
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It’s carrot planting time for many of us from spring to late summer, and many growers are searching my site for information. Here are quick links to all of my many carrot posts over the years. Inevitably there is some overlap.
After these links there are seasonal details on planting carrots.

Carrots are small seeds, needing a fine tilth (small soil particle size and good texture – not likely to crust or blow away). Good information on crop spacing for maximum yields, or biggest vegetables is in an out-of-print book, The Complete Know and Grow Vegetables by JKA Bleasdale, PJ Salter, and others. Buy it used.
For maximum total yield of carrots, they recommend 1.5” x 6” (4 x 15cm). You get medium-sized carrots. For early carrots go with 4 x 6” (10 x 15cm) to minimize competition and get rapid growth. If you want to have rows more than 6” (15cm) apart, calculate the area of these optimum spacings, then divide by your chosen row space. For example, if your rows are 12” (30cm) apart, the carrots can be as close as 0.75” (2cm) if total yield is more important than individual size, or 2” (5cm) for fast early carrots. We do five rows in a 4’ (1.2m) bed, so the rows are about 10” (25cm) apart, with the outer rows 4” (10cm) from the bed edge.
From Root Crops in March:

We aim to spread compost 4-6 weeks before planting, rototill 2-4 weeks before planting, and prep the bed a week or two before. This is more time than we allow later in the year, but in early spring it’s good to seize the opportunities that arise and not take the weather for granted.

There’s also a full chapter on carrots with all my information in my book Sustainable Market Farming, 2nd edition. It includes info on varieties, and which types are better for which soils, pests and diseases, crop rotations, cover crops before and after carrots, and more.

one day sooner than carrots at almost any temperature. When we see the red loops of the beet stems emerging, we know it’s the day to flame weed the carrots. (From Workhorse Crops for March)

Here’s a podcast I did with Seedtime.us
My name is spelled wrong on the YouTube page. It’s Dawling, not Dowling.
The title of the podcast refers to our decision some years ago, after 15 years of extensive trials, to stop growing bulb onions. Luke Hammond, the interviewer, was surprised we have chosen to forego such a basic crop. Most of the podcast is not about onions! But here I will give some background to that decision.

Onions are an exacting crop. Knowing how to get the best from your seeds will greatly improve your chances of success. It’s important to grow varieties that are suitable for the latitude of your farm. The further north you are, the longer the number of daylight hours you have in summer. I garden on the 38th parallel, the natural home of neither the Short day (Sweet Vidalia type) nor the Long day onion (hard, strong-flavored storing varieties). The names refer to the relative daylight length needed before the plant will start to make a bulb. The dividing line between short day (south of 35º) and long day (north of 38º) varieties is around 35-36-37º latitude. This reality, plus my own confusion, led us to study and experiment to find ways to work with the needs of this crop, to improve our harvest.
Onions are cool season plants. They have 3 distinct phases of growth and the switch from one to the next is triggered by environmental factors. It does not work to plant onions at a random date in the year without taking account of these environmental factors. Onions transition from the vegetative (leafy) to the bulbing stage at a precise daylength for that variety.
To grow large onions it is important to produce large healthy plants before the vegetative stage gives way to the bulbing stage. Each onion leaf represents one ring of the future onion bulb. The larger the leaf, the larger the ring becomes. If plants are small when bulbing starts, only small bulbs are possible. Cool, but not cold, weather encourages heavy leaf growth. Onion seedlings are slow growing – in spring they can take 10 weeks to reach a size suitable for transplanting.
Here at 38ºN, our longest day (summer solstice) has 14 hours and 46 minutes of daylight. We have 14 hours of daylight on May 6th. A few varieties of Long Day onions can be grown here, but those requiring 15 or 16 hours of daylight will never form bulbs at this latitude, unfortunately.
Short Day onions start to bulb at 10-12 hours of daylight, provided temperatures are warm enough. In the south, below 35ºN, they are sown in September or October, grow through the winter, and are harvested in May-June. Onions can survive 20ºF (-6.7ºC), but not worse. We have tried over-wintering onions outdoors, but even with rowcover, our losses were too high. Here we reach 10 hours of daylight on January 21; 11 hours on February 20; and 12 hours, naturally enough, at the spring equinox. Bulbing initiation gets delayed beyond the daylight trigger, until temperatures are higher than 60ºF-70ºF (15.5ºC-21ºC), (which is early April here). If we grow Short Day varieties here, they only have a brief time in spring to grow a decent sized plant before bulbing starts. Therefore it’s a waste of time to sow Short Day onions here in spring.
Hot, wet weather is the worst for onion growing and harvesting, so it is best not to let the onions sit around in wet soil during very hot days. Harvest them, get them under shade and a roof to dry down. Trimming should begin about two weeks after you started hanging the onions.

After a rack has been hanging for two weeks, test them by feeling maybe a dozen necks to see if they are ready for trimming. This involves pinching the necks gently just next to the bulb, and then rubbing/rolling your fingers together. They are ready for trimming if the majority of the necks feel dry and strawy.
We really wanted to grow bulb onions for year-round use, therefore we needed some storing onions. We can grow “Eat Right Away” onions, but only for a short window of the year. Local growers succeed with onions by growing varieties like Ailsa Craig to sell freshly harvested. But a ton of onions for one week didn’t answer our need! The storing long day varieties mostly grow north of 38º, not here. We found a few with small success (short term storage).
Our second problem was our curing conditions. Our barn is hot and sometimes humid. We needed fast drying so they didn’t rot. The onions we could grow were not as huge as the big round onions we could buy (not organic) at the wholesale market. Our cooks preferred convenience over Organic. Remember, cooking for a hundred people is not a walk in the park!
So, eventually we gave up on bulb onions. We grew yellow potato onions for quite a few years. Those aren’t big either, but the small ones do store very well. Nowadays we grow lots of garlic and lots of scallions.

Tromboncino Squash. Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
Most summer squash and zucchini are in the species Cucurbita pepo. They are easy to grow —the main challenges are pests, diseases, and moderating the quantities available. These crops can crank out high yields of a vegetable almost everyone likes.
Where insects are a problem for summer squash, vigorous plants of other squash and gourd species can bear all season in those areas. Growers with bad pest problems can try:

Long de Nice squash. Baker CreekSome zucchini varieties are especially attractive to cucumber beetles and may be grown as a trap crop: Cocozelle summer squash, Seneca, and Dark Green zucchini. When beetles accumulate in the trap crop, flame it or till it in.
Summer squash thrives on high levels of organic matter. Although only a light to moderate feeder for nitrogen and phosphorus, it requires quite high levels of potassium. Foliar seaweed spray can be used to make up for nutrient deficiencies. This crop does best with plentiful, but not excessive, moisture. That said, be careful not to overwater the seeds before they germinate, or they will rot.
This frost-tender warm-weather crop germinates at 60°F (15.5°C) minimum and does best at 85°F (30°C). Germination takes 5–10 days. During growth the ideal temperatures are 75°F–85°F (24°C–30°C) in the day and 65°F (18°C) at night.
Seed can remain viable for up to 5 years, if stored in a cool, dark, dry place. Seeds should be sown 0.5″–1″ (1–2.5 cm) deep, 6″–12″ (15–30 cm) apart, in widely spaced rows if you are not trellising. Sow deeper in hot weather, when it helps to turn on the drip irrigation, and sow each seed right by an emitter. Water at sowing, then not again until seedlings emerge. For a slightly earlier harvest, you can pre-sprout the seed.
Covering the row with netting will keep the pests away. If possible, use hoops or a rope above the row, pulled taut between stakes, to hold the netting above the leaves, as cucurbits are susceptible to abrasion damage. Remove the netting as soon as you see female flowers, to allow for pollination.
When transplanting squash, take care to disturb the roots as little as possible. If you sow 2 seeds in each cell, be sure to pinch off the smaller one as soon as possible to remove the competition.
As soon as the plants have one or two true leaves, at about 3–4 weeks of age, transplant in a mild spell, burying the entire stem below soil level, up to the seed leaves (carefully!) to protect it from damage. Cucurbits started indoors grow long spindly stems, which are quite fragile. Make the hole deep enough, slip the plant out of the container, perhaps on the blade of a knife, pop it into the hole, and close up firmly.
Plant 2’–3′ (60–90 cm) or more apart in the row. Transplanting allows a crop to be established earlier than would be possible with direct sowing in spring. Alternatively, a crop can be gained from a summer window in the planting schedule for a bed, after an early spring crop. Transplants do not grow as sturdy a root system as direct sown squash do, so I would not recommend transplanting if direct sowing is possible.
Squash bugs are probably the most common pest. The adults are long gray insects that emerge from overwintering in wooded areas once temperatures reach about 70°F (21°C). They are more attracted to pepo squash than they are to moschatas. Plants attacked by squash bugs look baked to a crisp, with curled bronzed leaves. Squash bugs can do a lot of direct damage to leaves, and they also vector yellow vine disease. They feed on young seedlings for preference and lay groups of spaced bronze eggs on the undersides of leaves. The eggs hatch in 10 days, and the nymphs suck sap from the plants. There are many generations each year, and numbers quickly build. Drop handpicked adults into soapy water rather than crushing them as the smell of the crushed bugs attracts more. It is also possible, but not easy, to crush the hard-shelled eggs. An alternative is to tear off egg-covered leaf pieces and drown the eggs in soapy water. Squash bugs can be trapped overnight under boards on the soil near the plants —in the morning, lift the boards and collect the bugs.
For more info on squash bugs, see the ATTRA publication, Squash Bug and Squash Vine Borer: Organic Controls, that includes pest lifecycles, systems-based management practices, mechanical and physical practices, and biological and botanical controls. Buckwheat can be interplanted to attract tachinid flies that parasitize squash bugs.
Striped cucumber beetles are our worst pests some years, even compared to squash bugs. In the hoophouse, we handpick the adults inside squash flowers in the mornings while they are still sluggish. Long pointed tweezers are our tool of choice. Our hope is that, by battling this first generation, we will reduce numbers for the rest of the season. To attract beneficial insects that are predators or parasites of the cucumber beetle, grow buckwheat, cilantro, dill, or winter peas near the squash plants, timed so that they flower when the rowcover or netting is removed from the squash plants. Another method of reducing pest attacks, especially useful after flowering, is Surround kaolin clay spray. It does need renewing after rain or overhead irrigation. If all else fails and action is imperative, Spinosad will kill them (and some other insects too).
The adult squash vine borer is a fairly large orange-and-black fuzzy moth with glassy black wings. It is active in May and early June, and there may be a second generation in late July/early August. The small flat brown eggs are laid singly at the base of the stem. The larvae hatch after 1 week, and are white with a brown head. They spend 4–6 weeks in the stem, eating upwards and growing to 1″ (2.5 cm) in size. Then they dig into the soil and pupate for the winter.
Plant symptoms include wilting of the whole plant and stem holes surrounded by frass (caterpillar poop). To save the plant, act at the first sign of trouble and pick out the grub, then pile soil over the injury to help the plant recover. Injecting Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) into the stem is another solution. For prevention, rotate crops and use netting or rowcover over plants until flowering. Another technique to try is pinching out the growing tips of the vine when it is 1’–2′ (30–60 cm) long, which causes the plant to branch and increases the odds that some part of it will survive.
I haven’t yet done a Plant Diseases of the Month Series, so I’ll include info here.
This post is adapted from a chapter in my second edition of Sustainable Market Farming, with some additional information on squash varieties.


Book Review: The Resilient Farm and Homestead: 20 Years of Permaculture and Whole Systems Design. Ben Falk. Chelsea Green. Revised and Expanded Edition, 2024. 342 pages, $44.95 US, 40G BP.
Ten years after writing the first edition of his book, Ben Falk has made a revised and expanded edition with new information on greenhouse design, agroforestry, silvopasture, beekeeping, human health and more. Even more valuable are his further ten years of experience feeding his thoughts and practice of permaculture in a cold Vermont climate, no-till farming, native versus introduced plants and insects, vegan versus livestock-included farming, dealing with climate change and living a whole life. He was a single, physically fit, energetic and slightly idealistic, 25-year-old when he landed on his 10-acre homestead in 2003, and 35 when he wrote his first book, encouraging readers to “Be bold and try stuff.” After another ten years, he has a partner and a son, a lot of lived experience with various agricultural theories, a realization that his first decade was the “establishment phase,” a career in professional land use design, and determination to live a balanced life. His gained wisdom shines through.
Ben has the courage to tackle his earlier ideas and those of other agricultural writers and speakers and say what did not work for him and what does. You can be confident that his suggestions are practical and efficient, as well as resilient. The beautiful photos show ideas in action, not merely under construction as some permaculture publications do. Rice paddies in Vermont, possible but sensible? Swale-enclosed ponds, lovely.
The book includes chapters on creating a legacy in a time of change, design and site establishment, water and earthworks, fertility harvesting and cycling, food crops, adaptive fuel and shelter, resilience and regeneration for the long haul. There are useful appendices, including an aptitude quiz on living a resilient lifestyle, a skill list for emergencies, a curriculum for a resilient homestead, a checklist of tools and materials, a vulnerability checklist, and a glossary, a resource list, chapter notes and a thorough index. The introduction lists 20 new ingredients in this revised edition (including a list of 30 common cold climate site design and building mistakes); 16 practices they have stopped since his first book (spraying compost tea takes too much time and shows little result); and 10 new practices they have adopted (grazing cows).
Farming and ecological living can appeal to people across the political spectrum, but Ben does not shy away from briefly mentioning the current threats of economic, social and environmental collapse, while addressing vulnerabilities and how we might respond. This is not a “doom-reading” book, but an encouraging and very practical one! “If we steer Earth towards adaptive regeneration, we’ll see true resilience much sooner than by just letting it develop ‘naturally’.”
This book uses permaculture design and its framework for problem-solving and refers to numeric zones within a location. This is concisely explained, so don’t let the word deter you if you are new to permaculture. Ben Falk has not unquestioningly adopted that cause, or the Green Dream (personal ecological consumerism regardless of lack of fundamental political change) but thoughtfully tested and applied ideas that work and don’t cause problems elsewhere in the world. Ben advocates for people becoming producers rather than merely “less-bad “consumers.
The chapter on design and site establishment is best read before you decide which piece of land to buy. This is the time to consider your mission, goals, analysis of what’s possible, and how you plan to do that. To make your land use design, analyze what’s available, consider your options and implement your decisions, (aka think-design-do-reflect-redesign) as many times in a repeating cycle as you need to. Likely you’ll have more ideas for tweaking the system than you have energy for, so you’ll need to prioritize the adjustments that will have the most effect. This ensures maximum regeneration of land for minimum energy and time input. Ben lists his top five leverage points: swale construction and use, grazing animals, broadcasting seed and transplanting, cutting and clearing trees, scraping and tillage to create bare soil.
We need crops that convert the most sunshine and rainfall into usable food. More nut trees, for example, and intensive rotational grazing. Much of the cold-temperate climate landscape would be most productive converted to permanent silvopasture. Sometimes fossil fuel use to develop a site sooner is very worthwhile. Examples include chain saws, earthmovers, electric power tools.
Resilience is the ability of a system to recover from disturbances. Factors include Diversity, Redundancy, Connectivity and Manageability. Efficiency is not the same as Resiliency. The “whole world” picture needs to be included, and adapting to changing conditions must be built in. Actions that increase both biodiversity and biomass increase the ability to be regenerative.
No single design works for all sites or all groups of people. Your own skills and aptitudes are your most dependable asset. Practice welcoming adversity (the blessing of disillusionment), as a chance to learn and grow stronger. Try to avoid tight attachments to your goals, as this can lead to big struggles. Check out popular notions that others have already found faulty: planting marginally-hardy perennial plants beside bodies of water does not keep them warmer in winter! Your climate is not the same as information from ten years ago would have you believe! Keep your own weather records. Likewise, observe whether some practices you don’t believe in – dowsing for example – do in fact work. Modify your design to balance theoretical “best” practice with practicality: perfectly on-contour plantings do slow, spread and sink water best, but they make mowing and harvesting harder.
Once you have your land, assess it in some detail before taking any firm direction. Work with the realities of your land, rather than planning to radically change them. You may see a better plan emerging. Good designs incorporate the ability to change. Using modular designs makes this easier. For example, consistent bed and path sizes.

Swales are on-contour ridges made by ditching along contours and piling the soil below the ditch, helping even out the water supply and retaining water that would have run off the surface as much as 20ft downhill. Swales make great places to plant hedges, and the space between one swale and the next makes a good small paddock for intensive rotational grazing.
Only the importation of fertility from other parts of the world has enabled chemical farming to continue after the Great Soil Erosion of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. When this becomes no longer tenable, will we turn to regenerative farming, or let society collapse? We can save farming by building and conserving topsoil.
When we make compost we need to investigate the source and the content of the materials: What feedstock was given to the Organic livestock that provides the manure? Was it from lab rats with a diet of antibiotics or worse? Grasses take up PFAS, such as those in flexible plastic sheeting. But if not contaminated, they can be a key nitrogen resource. Are roadside leaves safe? Pond weeds, comfrey, burlap bags, cover crops and organic mulches all have their advocates, Human urine benefits plants. Humanure is possible if the household doesn’t use pharmaceutical drugs. Biochar can increase soil water retention, reduce nutrient leaching and encourage diverse micro-organisms, but poorly made biochar can stunt plant growth spectacularly.
Wood chips are great, but wood chippers are expensive to own and operate and a pain to use. (One colleague said to me, “Lots of money, lots of noise, lots of gasoline, lots of time, lots of logs and branches. Small pile of chips.”)
Remineralization is the replacement of missing or deficient minerals, which could be factors limiting crop health. The Soil Food Web is an approach that focuses on soil biological activity as the main limiting factor in crop health.
Livestock has an important role for resilient homesteads. Regenerative high density stocking with very short periods of grazing in each paddock (called intensive tall-grass grazing or mob stocking ) is very productive and builds soil. Tall grasses (having deep roots) are grazed down to within a foot of the ground (not all the way down). Some roots die back once they are no longer needed. As the tops quickly grow back, more roots grow, and soils build. Active management produces much healthier soil than neglect does. Anyone wanting to restore a neglected field area can read what not to do, and what to do, in this chapter. Ben’s approach included sheep, prescribed burns, scything, and over-seeding for several years. But no tilling or plowing.
There are benefits to mowing in some circumstances, with correct timing and severity. Stem density increases and grasses are promoted. If the existing plants have been cut down enough by grazers or machinery, May and June are the windows for lightly reseeding. Never let a field lie fallow for more than a year. Water management will help reclamation. Mow early and often.
Consider permanent fencing. Plan tree plantings in straight rows to make fencing and mowing easy. Refrain from pruning off lower branches if you plan to have livestock, as that will deter browsing. Feed hay to cattle on pasture if needed. If you don’t want to raise animals, you need to mulch or mow the understory of your trees and perennial vegetables. Those tasks take a lot more labor than raising livestock.
Ducks and chickens, sheep and cows all have their niche. Ben found sheep to be more work than cows, and both to be quite an emotional and logistical commitment. Sheep are prone to many diseases, but have a role as smaller, short-term livestock, practical on a smaller homestead. Ducks eat slugs, forage actively, are cold-hardy and have low health maintenance needs. They are good layers, and good mothers, have good predator-awareness, and generally won’t fly away.
Don’t believe all the generalizations you might hear about livestock, species, varieties or even individual animals. Ben reports that his ducks never ate mature vegetation during the growing season, for 3 years. In year 4 they attacked the cabbages. Who knows why? It was a dry, relatively slugless summer, which might have contributed. Observe what is true of your animals this year, but don’t depend on the same thing happening next year. Do believe that chickens will scratch up your seedlings and new transplants!
Keyline plowing is favored by many permaculturists. It was developed in the drylands of eastern Australia and may not translate to moister climates. It doesn’t work well in New England, for example. It may be useful in cold climates (where weather and soil conditions combine to move water across the soil, rather than into it) if drought conditions prevail. Managed small ephemeral ponds can capture and hold heavy rainfall.

In-ground septic systems have leach fields capable of supporting good crop yields, of either cover crops or food crops. Plants cannot move bacteria or other organic pathogens through their tissues, so there is no danger of E. coli in tomatoes grown above your leach field. Plants can, however, bioaccumulate heavy metals and other inorganic compounds. If in doubt, test the plants. Research 2020-2023 suggests plants tend to accumulate PFAs as well as toxins in their vegetative parts, rather than their fruits and seeds.
Chapter 5 moves us on to details of food crops. Long ago, Polynesians navigated the Pacific in their canoes, locating small pieces of land to settle. They took with them 24 special “canoe plants”. These included foods, medicines, fiber and dye plants, building materials and ceremonial plants. They carried plants gathered from a wide area of the world, to adapt to many situations.
Alongside the benefits of perennial crops, there are some disadvantages. Climate weirdness brings changes to frost dates that kill blossoms and pollinators, and can affect chilling hours and flowering dates. One harvest per year from the space the crop occupies can be less than short term multi-cropping annuals provide. Establishment of perennials can take years (so grow some annuals around new perennials for the first few years).
People with short growing seasons would do well to grow lots of storage crops, and all of us are advised to grow a wide range of diverse crops. The book has tables of perennial crops best suited to various extremes of weather, Goldilocks crops to try out on a small scale, if at all, and those that give high yields.
For simplicity, focus on larger quantities of more-reliable long-storing foods rather than lots of small-quantity foods (but keep that crop diversity in mind!). Although Ben’s family used to grow paddy rice, they no longer do so, due to challenges of aquatic weeds, and losses to birds. Especially focus on summer-planted late fall harvests, to preserve food for the Hungry Gap from March to whenever it warms up enough to produce spring harvests. Another option is fermented storable foods like krauts and kimchi, which take less work than canning.

Ben has a very interesting essay on “Native to When? “Invasive” Species, Species-ism, and Optimization” that really got me thinking. Healthy ecosystems include high diversity. Humans are part of the ecosystem (not kings or tyrants, but participants). We intend to manage our gardens and farmland in a responsible right-action kind of way. Not merely sit back admiring the view while elsewhere forests are razed to grow soybeans to feed us and our livestock.
Permaculture views plants and other organisms that have been in place for 10 or 100 or 300 years as not fundamentally more natural or proper than recent arrivals. More important is to consider what the plant does and how it affects the soil and other organisms, and our needs in that space. Plants, animals and other humans are not regarded as evil aliens.
Permaculture seeks inclusion and synergy, with adaptation to challenges that arise. This includes a high level of biodiversity, embracing the legacy of food systems from across the globe. It is not modeled on what the ecosystem looked like on the North American landmass in 1491, or before native peoples managed the land to promote chestnut and oak forests, or before mass migrations of buffalo or any other date.
Some conservationists seem perversely focused on getting back to specific species and ecosystem arrangements from an idealized past time, even if this involves large inputs of fossil fuels, chemicals, labor and money.
We are unwise to adopt a “Nativist War-on-Alien-Invader” ideology. During the time that humans have been moving around the Earth, we have moved around plants and animals (and associated microbes). What year could be chosen as a starting point to determine whether a plant is native or alien? We have potatoes from South America, corn from Mesoamerica, honeybees and earthworms from Europe, apples from Southwest Asia, and much more. Choosing European contact as a starting date is a prejudice that ignores previous centuries of land management.
No living thing is permanent. Plant successions and ecosystem change are natural. Native white pine and goldenrod have forced out numerous species across New England. A human moving a plant from one area to another is no more unnatural than a bird moving seeds. Movement of species is part of biodiversity. It is our responsibility to determine if it would be helpful to redistribute a particular species, considering the needs of other humans and other forms of life.
Ben says (and I strongly agree) “Feeding oneself from a monoculture in Iowa or Mexico while devoting time to spraying Japanese knotweed with toxic chemicals will not get us where we need to be.” Attempting to maintain the world around us in a static condition is simply not an option. We now need to provide for 8 billion humans. Hunting and gathering is no longer viable for most. We cannot live as people did when the Earth was more thinly populated.
Worries about invasive alien species may also indicate a fear that nature will “take over”, and even a belief that humans are separate from nature, perhaps its masters, a very colonial concept.
The urgent ecological and social issues in front of us require unified solutions. Fragmented approaches, including wars on specific plants (and cultures), have rarely, if ever, worked. Species eradication and similar fear-based hyper-controlling and divisive efforts fail even as they line the pockets of Monsanto. Treating all life-forms with respect leads us to more understanding, with prospects for synergy. Why, oh why, do the Acknowledgements list 16 men, while Ben’s wife Erica Koch is one of only four named female family members? Let’s have more biodiversity and inclusion!
Chapter 6 covers adaptive fuel and shelter, well worth reading, but one on which I took few notes. It includes house design and construction, fuel for heating and for power equipment, tips on common mistakes to avoid. Chapter 7 is on resilience and regeneration for the long haul, including intergenerational success, children on the homestead, and more.
The whole book is thoroughly researched, clearly written, and will be tremendously useful to all who use it. For more, see Ben’s website https://www.wholesystemsdesign.com/

It’s sweet corn planting time for many of us again and many growers are searching my site for information. Here are quick links to my many sweet corn posts over the years. Inevitably there is some overlap. There’s also a full chapter on sweet corn with all this information in my book Sustainable Market Farming, 2nd edition.
After these links there are seasonal details on planting sweet corn.



When harvesting our fifth planting of sweet corn (Bodacious, Kandy Korn, Sparkler and Silver Queen), I beefed up our raccoon traps following the suggestions from Joanna Reuter of Chert Hollow Farm, staking the traps down and smearing peanut butter high on the stake in the back of the cage. Well, the first morning I caught a small, very white skunk! I let it out carefully. The next morning I caught the same skunk again. And the third morning, again. The little animal never seemed ferocious or scared, more curious about how to get out. I was more scared than it was, I think! I bet you’re wondering how I released it. Well, I gently laid a large plastic bag over the top and nearside of the trap (just in case. . . ) and gingerly unlatched the door. Then I used a strong stick to lever up the door a bit, as it is a tight fit. Then I bravely put my foot on top of the trap and pulled the door up by hand. Then I dropped the stick and ran! Later the skunk ambled out. By the third morning I think it was happy with the arrangement. A small can of cat food is a big meal for a small skunk, after all. But I was tired of the game, so I took the traps away. Raccoons don’t seem to like Silver Queen as much as Kandy Korn anyway, maybe because the husks are tighter and harder to rip off. Actually I like Kandy Korn better than Silver Queen too! Meanwhile we are working on setting up a temporary electric fence around the last corn patch, with our new solar charger.
For a valuable second opinion, see Margaret Roach (who grows in Massachusetts) in A Way to Garden:


One summer, after herbicide drifted in very hot weather into our patch of Roma tomatoes and damaged them noticeably, we gardeners got together with other managers of our other agricultural areas, to find common ground, and avoid causing problems for each other in future. We share our land, and generally our approach to sustainable agriculture. Getting it formally agreed and put into writing was a good idea.
The Twin Oaks Sustainable Agriculture Pledge is a joint policy statement from all the Agricultural Areas about how we farm here, putting in place some kind of standards and a code of practice that we can all adhere to. Each Area may supplement this Pledge with a statement about its own particular practices, which may vary from those of other areas (eg if it becomes feasible to get organically grown grain for Poultry but it’s still prohibitively expensive for Dairy to do the same, then we can have that difference). The goal is not to make us all have to do the same, or make us 100% Organic.
The Principles behind the Twin Oaks Sustainable Agriculture Pledge
Our Tofu and Seed Growing businesses are USDA certified, for good reasons, as they sell to the public, and people look for the USDA symbol. But we believe the domestic areas would not benefit from Organic Certification, which involves a lot of paperwork, and some restrictions which would cost us a lot of money. Additionally, USDA Organic Certification is focused solely on the contents of the product. There are many other aspects of our farming that we care about –
Our concerns are much wider and deeper than just the organic product. Also, we want a method that is in keeping with our trust-based system, not one of outside inspectors.

We have based our Sustainability Pledge initially on the IFOAM (International Federation of Organic Agricultural Movements) principles and standards for organic agriculture.
Each Twin Oaks Managerial Area may define its own sustainable agriculture Practices, based on the shared principles in our Pledge.

I’m more usually writing about large gardens or small farms, and in the case of protecting crops from pests, long rolls of rowcover or netting. But if you have a small number of important plants you could consider using a food safe. These netting structures close like umbrellas for storage, and keep bigger insects out.
The eggplants above have just been moved outdoors after being raised indoors without any netting, when they suffered aphid predation. The food safe fabric wouldn’t keep tiny insects off – it’s like tulle (bridal veiling). Outdoors it can keep insects and small rodents away, but not whatever creature especially love Swiss chard! This garden had a single chard plant in a bed of tatsoi, pakchoi and Napa cabbage. Those Asian greens stayed protected under the food safes. An exposed row of spring kale was not eaten either. But over a few days Something ate the whole chard plant down to the ground!

The creature ripped through two sides of the food safe (entry and exit?) If you have any idea which creature particularly loves Swiss chard, please leave a comment at the end of this post.



In the same garden is this trellis for restraining raspberries in a way that can be easily dismantled to mow for fall fruiting. Fall raspberries fruit on the primocanes, the ones that grow that spring. There are particular varieties developed for fall fruiting, and some that can be used either for summer or fall fruiting, depending how you prune them. They are a great way to extend the fruit season, and their pruning is simplicity itself! Roll up the cords or wires. Mow the canes down after fruiting, and weed. In early spring, thin the canes to 2″ apart, install and tension the wires or cords between the posts.
The same system can be used for summer raspberries, but you’ll have to deal with the wires while pruning, as in other trellis systems.
This trellis uses 4″ x 4″ posts with crosspieces at 1.5′, 3′ and 5′. They have holes drilled towards the ends and paracord threaded through.

At the far end the cords are tensioned using plastic “camjam” cord tighteners. You could alternatively just pull and tie them off for the season. On a larger scale using wire you could use something from the fencing supplies.


Peanuts are an interesting and rewarding crop to grow on a small scale. Growers who offer farm tours will enjoy showing how the flowers “peg down” to develop the nuts under the soil, those concerned about local food security will appreciate peanuts as a source of locally grown protein and oil; and everyone can enjoy the challenge of trying a new crop.
Peanuts need a frost-free period of at least 110 days. Virginia type peanuts require 2,520–2,570 growing degree days (GDDs) above a base of 57°F (14°C). Consult Weatherspark.com to make sure you have enough frost-free days. One way of tracking GDDs is on the Climate Smart Farming Growing Degree Day Calculator website from Cornell, which can show you the season to date and the 6-day forecast, as well as the 15-year average and the 30-year “normal” for your location.
Peanuts like warm or hot conditions, with adequate but not excessive water. If you can provide these conditions, as well as relatively light, loose, free-draining soil and attention to controlling weeds, then I encourage you to give peanuts a try. We plant our peanuts in a raised bed, which helps provide looser soil. They can be hard to lift from heavy soil.

We get our seed peanuts from Southern Exposure Seed Exchange. Twenty-eight grams will plant about 25′ (7.6 m). Prepare a bed or row ahead of time. You can warm the soil by covering it with rowcover or plastic for 3–7 days before planting. The pH should be 5–6, and if calcium levels are at all low, add gypsum — the start of blooming is the latest time you can effectively do this. Calcium deficiency results in unfilled pods and low yields (see the “Peanut Production Practices” chapter in the annual Peanut Information publication from NCSU Extension for more on soil nutrient requirements). The NCSU website also has an interesting “Peanut Risk Tool and Field Log.”
Those thinking of pre-sprouting or transplanting peanuts should be alerted to a peculiarity of the crop: they do not germinate well without soil. Exactly what peanuts need from the soil remains a bit of a mystery. So if you want your peanuts to get an early start, don’t try to sow them in a soilless mix, or in paper towels or a glass jar. To successfully transplant peanuts, use actual soil or a sand/compost/soil mix.

If you have a relatively short growing season, I recommend starting with the 110-day variety Tennessee Red Valencia. It’s easy to grow, very productive and has large sweet kernels, 2–5 per shell. If you don’t want to hill, this variety is said to be the most accepting of this. Another 110-day variety is the unusual Carolina Black, an heirloom with a black skin. It’s sweet-tasting and slightly larger than the Spanish varieties. Virginia Jumbo needs 120 days, produces large rich-flavored kernels, 2 per shell, and prefers loose soil. Whopper also needs 120 days, and its claim to fame is obvious. Carwile’s Virginia is a 130-day heirloom variety with superior flavor and good drought resistance (though only average disease resistance). MorningChores.com has an excellent beginner description of seven pests and two diseases. Peanuts are prone to the same diseases as beans, with bacterial wilt being especially damaging. Sclerotinia blight is more prevalent at high pH.

Sow around the last frost date. The soil temperature should be 65°F (18°C) at noon, at a 4″ (10 cm) depth, for 3 consecutive days. For us that’s late April. May is safer. Count back from your first frost date to find your last sowing date. The beginning of June is about the latest I’d want to try here. Shell the nuts (don’t split the kernels into halves) and sow 2″ (5 cm) deep, 12″ (30 cm) apart, in rows 30″–36″ (76–90 cm) apart. Inoculating the seeds with Rhizobium bacteria can produce enough nitrogen in root nodules to sustain the crop, as with other legumes. Active nodules are pink or red inside.
The seedlings may be slow to emerge, so preemptive weeding may be needed. If you have not interplanted, you could try pre-emergence flame-weeding. Peanuts are native to an area subject to periodic drought and fire, and have evolved to withstand heat. You can flame them soon after emergence, as the growing point is still in the soil. Older peanut plants may be damaged and then recover. The seedlings look somewhat like peas or clover. Because they grow slowly for the first 40 days, they will not thrive if you lose them in weeds (guess how I know?). Flaming or careful hoeing as soon as the peanuts emerge will effectively deal with broadleaf weeds. Grasses are not killed by flaming.

Once the seedlings are 12″ (30 cm) tall, you can hill them up, as you would potatoes, to increase yields. We skip this step —the peanuts have no difficulty pegging in the loose soil of our raised beds. We’ve grown Virginia Jumbo and Carwiles without hilling and got plenty of peanuts. But if you are not interplanting and have a good hiller attachment on a tiller or wheel hoe (or a visiting school group, perhaps), then hilling can deal with weeds and provide more loose soil for the nuts to develop in. Avoid disturbing the soil after pegging has begun.
There are two periods when adequate watering is vital. The first is at planting, to ensure germination. The second is from 50 days after planting, when pegs start to enter the soil, until 2 weeks before harvest. This is the time when the pods are filling. Stop watering 10–14 days before harvest, to help the peanuts dry for storage.
You can wait for a light frost to kill the tops, or you can simply harvest when enough peanuts are mature. You’ll have to dig some up and open them to see. The University of Florida has a helpful publication, “Methods to Evaluate Peanut Maturity for Optimal Seed Quality and Yield.” If the fall is wet, it might be best to pull or dig the plants early, when the seed is almost ripe, and dry them indoors. This will minimize losses from rotting.

In dry light soil, you can just pull the plant, and the peanuts will come up attached to the stems. Then you can bunch and hang them in an airy barn. Mice really love peanuts and will run off with them and stash them at a phenomenal rate, so be sure to set traps or provide a good cat. If the soil was dry and loose enough for you to pull the plant, the nuts will likely be relatively clean, so you can dry (and cure) them on the vine, which takes up to 3 weeks.
In heavier soils, dig the plants up lightly — no need to go deep. You can pull the nuts off the stems by hand and gather loose ones from the soil. For small-scale production, you can strip peanuts off the vines by dragging the plants through a V-shaped piece of equipment, from the far side towards yourself, letting peanuts collect in a tote.
If needed, wash the peanuts, spreading the loose ones out on trays to dry. Mold is an enemy when drying: moldy peanuts contain toxic aflatoxin, so get them dried quickly. Set up fans indoors, or dry the peanuts outdoors in the sun: 3–7 days is a likely amount of time. You could spread the peanuts on screens on wheelbarrows. Just wheel the barrow from place to place to catch the sun, and under cover if rain threatens. A second screen inverted over the first keeps mice away. This system works for very small-scale production. You could make mouse-proof lidded trays from rat wire and dry the peanuts on greenhouse benches, with fans.
If vine-drying, you can also cure the peanuts on the vine, as described above. Otherwise pick the good nuts off the plants once they have dried and cure them in the sun for a few days. Peanuts will cure to a storable state in 2–3 weeks indoors at ambient temperatures or 6 days in a solar dryer of the type described in my book. It’s important not to heat the nuts higher than 85°F (29°C). Drying too fast causes skin slippage and kernel splitting. To find out when peanuts have finished curing, taste some. If they still have the watery crunch of water chestnuts, they are not ready; once they taste good, they’re cured. For long-term storage, a sealed container in a freezer works well. They need to be kept very dry. Like most seeds, peanuts are very good at drawing moisture from the air.

Immediately after harvest, you can eat all or some of your bounty, without drying or curing. These are a big hit! Here’s how we cook them for a party: fill a large pot two-thirds full of water, add 2 handfuls of salt and enough peanuts (in their shells) to fill the pot, but still have enough room to move. Cook for 5 whole hours, strain, and serve.
To roast peanuts, spread them shelled or unshelled in a single layer and cook at 350°F (175°C) for 20–25 minutes in the shell, or 15–20 minutes shelled.
This post is adapted from a chapter in my second edition of Sustainable Market Farming. The chapter in that book also includes peanut history, information on growing peanuts in a hoophouse, interplanting lettuce and peanuts, solar drying them, and saving seed.

I follow the news from Sandra and Lynn at Lynbreck Croft in the Cairngorms National Park of Scotland. They have been guardians of that 150 acres since 2016, restoring the degraded landscape. They grow vegetables, raise long-haired Highland cattle, native rare-breed pigs, honeybees and egg-laying hens. They butcher their own livestock, sell food super-locally, teach courses on the croft, and provide tours by arrangement. They have planted nearly 30,000 trees and installed fencing to keep the land in good heart.
I have reviewed their book Our Wild Farming Life.

They are members of the UK Agricology Tree Fodder Hub, a group promoting using shrubs and trees as supplementary livestock feed. This was once an important component of animal husbandry, either browsed fresh or harvested and fed dried (“tree hay”) in winter. There is an increasing interest in this practice as it is sustainable, perennial, no-till, and answers a need for those farming in regions with short summers wanting a low-input system that maintains animal health and welfare.
Trees in the animals’ landscape provide not just browse but also shade and shelter. The animals are able to select the varieties and species best suited to their nutritional and medicinal needs and personal preferences.
The Hub includes research into usefulness of various trees, their role in moderating climate change impacts; building soil health; sustaining insect, amphibian, reptile, fungal and bird life; and a link to TreeFEED: Trees for Forage: Short term plantings to enhance livestock production, health and resilience. (Trials of the TreeFEED project carried out in Cornwall by Farm Carbon Toolkit.)
Cattle browsing for feed.
Agricology’s Tree Fodder Technical Guide incorporates in its 36 pages a wide range of research and farmer stories, videos, blogs, offering opportunities to learn from other farmers, explore different approaches and pick up practical suggestions.
“Findings & recommendations
Tree fodder provides supplementary nutrition, minerals, and medicinal compounds, supporting livestock health and resilience, especially during dry seasons or winter months.
Domesticated animals naturally browse on trees and shrubs, with goats and sheep showing higher intake due to their ability to digest anti-nutritional factors.
Tree fodder is comparable to grasses and forbs in macronutrients and can be superior in protein, fat, and sugar content.
Tree fodder is a stable source of minerals like zinc, cobalt, selenium, and calcium, which vary by species, location, and season.
Condensed tannins and salicylic compounds in tree fodder can provide health benefits, such as reducing methane emissions, managing intestinal parasites, and treating inflammation and pain.
Direct browsing, cut-and-drop feeding, tree hay, and silage are effective ways to provide tree fodder. Tree hay is highly palatable and can be stored for winter use.
Pollarding and shredding are effective methods for harvesting tree fodder. Proper timing and storage are crucial for preserving nutritional value.
Case studies: Farmers Tim Downes and Lynn Cassells and Sandra Baer [of Lynbreck Croft] have successfully integrated tree fodder into their systems, improving livestock health, fertility, and resilience while reducing reliance on chemical treatments.
Recommendations: Incorporate diverse tree species for nutrition, shade, and shelter; manage trees for optimal growth and accessibility; and explore tree fodder as a sustainable supplement to traditional feed.”