Book Review: Sky Blue Trades, by Chip Planck

Front cover of Sky Blue Trades by Chip Planck

Book Review: Sky Blue Trades, by Chip Planck. Independently published, February 2026, 216 pages, ISBN 9798248250714.

Chip Planck and his wife Susan Planck farmed Wheatland Vegetable Farms in Northern Virginia from 1973-2010. This very engaging book is an interplanted field of essays, anecdotes and poetry. It’s a good “growing season read” because it is composed of short chapters that can be read when you have a few minutes. You will feel refreshed with inspiring food for thought, sometimes entertaining, sometimes sobering, about the culture and economics of farming.

There are sections on money, customers, workers, politics, the neighborhood, and, bravely, their low points. Poetry by Chip and a summation by Susan round out the book.

Chip tells how in 1973, a group land purchase of 400 acres 50 miles NW of Washington DC bought him and Susan a 60 acre share of that land, with a house in poor repair and the treasure of learning from Tony and Hiu Newcomb of Potomac Vegetable Farms, who also co-signed their loans. After 5 years as junior partners to Hiu and Tony, they began their own Wheatland Vegetable Farms, and marketed initially at roadside stands, but found insufficient traffic. They switched to driving in every week to 10-15 farmers markets in DC and the suburbs, and ran the markets from 1979-2010, growing 20 acres of vegetables. Clearly they needed a good supply of workers to pick and sell all that food.

Susan and Chip were successful full-time vegetable farmers for 37 years, without going to ag college, and without outside jobs or government payments. Their business covered retirement funds as well as farm expenses and daily living. They worked hard, read a lot about farming and picked up every tip they could from their mentors.

They paid wages, saved for retirement, planted enough crops, worked enough markets. And didn’t take off-farm jobs. In dollars per hour, the wages to first year workers were close to the Virginia minimum wage. Wages went up by $1/hr for second year workers, and another dollar for third year workers. Extra was paid before and after the academic vacations, and to those who stayed to the end of their contract. Returning workers were about one third of the crew. Yes, they kept precise time sheets, paid employer’s share of Medicaid and taxes. It was important to the Plancks to provide their workers’ contributions to retirement. They also provided spartan housing and plenty of produce. They are not owners who enjoy working endless hours in isolation.

They tracked their earnings in five-year rolling averages, to allow for the widely changing seasons. Their peak years were 2001-2005, after 20 years of learning, and before starting to cut back on acreage and markets as part of their gradual retirement plan. In their last 4 years their net earnings were higher because they had dropped their weakest markets and hired fewer workers.

The year was mentally divided into three parts: 7 months frost-free of “overtime weeks” (7 days of 10 hours each), 2 months of “full-time weeks” (7 days of 6 hours), and 3 months of part-time work (7 days of 3 hours). That totals 2750 hours a year, compared to a standard work year of 2000 hours.

Farming occupies a humble economic sector. In their first five years, the Plancks each made $1.85/hour, compared to $20/hour during the peak fat years. At one point they reached the top 10%, and then the top 4% of farms as far as earnings went. Lots of labor and smart decisions produced lots of earnings. Not quite as good as it sounds maybe, as 50% of farms have sales of $10,000 or less. Many are part-time.

Susan and Chip Planck at one of Wheatland Vegetable Farms markets

The overall picture is that they made enough to raise and educate a family, stay healthy, pay off a mortgage, and save for retirement. Working at home is nice except when you can’t get away. Working outdoors is refreshing except when it’s awful. Farming can leave you feeling well-used or used-up. You might feel like a glorified amateur or a thwarted specialist. But -ah- you can choose and enjoy your work.

The book also includes amusing insightful sections, such as the one on “conference brain-death”, the unforeseen side-effects of what farmers hope will be an energizing break: being denied true rest.

The Management Made Easy chapter includes Wheatland Vegetable Farms Fourteen Principles of Effective Worker Management. Useful stuff. Hiring workers increases production, income and happiness. Hiring family members might not, because you will be living with them at day’s end, and may hear about your poor decisions and grumpy behavior over dinner.

Refusing to hire workers because you can work faster than them is like a teacher complaining that students don’t know anything. Why are you teaching? The net return from the workers is the important bit, not who is fastest. It’s the volume of beans picked that generates the income.

One person alone cannot generate enough picked beans to raise a family. Thoreau was subsidized by Emerson paying for his hut. Don’t wait to get big before hiring workers. Hiring them will enable your farm to expand.

Do forewarn new workers of the realities of the job. Wheatland provided applicants with a 10-page description of the farm and the Plancks’ approaches to work and the reasons for the growing choices they made. They updated it each year. Unlikely fits selected themselves out. This saved hours of meeting time.

Every new task needs to be shown and then checked three times, starting half an hour into the job. Pull out rejects from the picking basket and point out missed crop that should have been picked. Don’t let people start a task until they’ve watched and listened. (Chip says to handcuff the crew until you finish the explanation.) Start with the statement that any mistakes you are warning them about are ones you have made yourselves. Quality control is a continuous job. This year, this week won’t be exactly the same as the last one.

Working with your crew gives the best collective result. People working in small groups of mixed abilities raises the overall result. Assign the people to a group. Choose the best workers for the specialized crops. Keep things flowing. Avoid letting crews grind to a complete halt. Move some of them on to another task, allocate clean up.

Experience of school life does not teach personal efficiency or co-operative work skills. Don’t expect college kids to have developed such skills. Farm workers need to understand picking and selling, as one skill informs the other. The farmer has to let go enough for workers to be sloppy and inattentive at first. The market customers will give the workers feedback. You can give them meticulous instructions and build trust.

Pay them, reward them, retain them, join them in fun as well as work. You will be building a network of future farmers – 25 workers out of 300 Wheatland workers went on to farm commercially. What makes a good worker? A good employer.

Workers can form a tribe, a small community. They talk about work over their dinners. This spreads the norms, practices of the farm and gives them a chance to compare with other farms any of them have worked at.

At Wheatland, there were no financial secrets. The Plancks told the workers what they made and spent on the farm and trusted them to take produce to market, sell it and bring the money home.

Many farmers try to keep the workforce to a minimum, but Wheatland chose the other path. There’s a chapter on why it’s valuable to have some less-efficient workers and some less-productive acres, so long as those workers and acres generate a net return. The workers enjoy having others around, and when the going is hard, they appreciate having other people to share the difficulties, or at least get the picking done faster and get in out of the rain. Over 25 years, evidence mounted that more labor could earn the farm more money. During their first 5 years, Chip and Susan kept 16 cents of every dollar in sales. Labor was 30% of total costs. Later the margin grew to 34 cents of every dollar earned and labor was 49% of total costs. Other costs shrank to less significance compared to labor.

 

Chip and Susan were interviewed for the Growing for Market podcast. You can listen to it here.

In their last 4 years of farming, 2006-2010, they cut back a lot on acres cultivated and markets served. Labor decreased to 34% of costs. Work became more efficient but was insufficient for the owners to live off. They started to draw Social Security and retirement savings, which was all part of their plan.

If the customers wanted small tomatoes, pinks, unusual types, they did their best to meet their requests. That took a lot of labor. Note, however, that growing 12 types of tomatoes is all “growing tomatoes” – the same skill set.

How many workers are too many? Life is a perpetual trade-off between favoring and cultivating skill and efficiency on the one hand, and encouraging maximum participation and learning on the other hand. Each season, the 10-20 workers started out trying all tasks. Group cohesion makes for better results than sub-dividing, leaving only all the slowest to pick tomatoes, where none of them would improve. Getting the job done correctly and quickly is vital to success. In some situations, giving a task to the best suited pays off, but never assume.

In the early 1990s, Loudoun County adopted a hamlet ordinance, a kind of cluster housing idea. Each rural building lot had to be big enough to include its own water and sewage facilities, be set back from the road and be part of a clustered arrangement that included some common open space and left some surrounding land undeveloped under the residents’ control.

In 2002, they started to develop a hamlet, with a contractor digging perc-test pits. After this very speedy start, it took 15 years before the first house and lot were sold. Houses of modest square-footage, built for maximum solar gain, from high quality materials, oriented to encourage neighborliness, with 96% of the farmland in a conservation easement preventing more housing being built there. There are two large “Conservancy” lots owned by farmers and 7 householders on small building lots. Rural growth without sprawl, or much loss of farmland.

In the US, consumers were responsible for starting producer-only farmers’ markets. Farmers answered the demand, bringing produce close to where large numbers of people shopped, and a new movement flourished. This worked better than roadside stands (not enough customers), dealing with wholesalers (inflexible demands, late payments) and hobby farmers (selling small volumes unreliably).

Farmers’ markets had low entry barriers (a patch, a truck, a card table, some produce) and no-selling-before-the-bell rules (self-interested cooperation). Selfish unregulated behavior (the tragedy of the commons) was avoided.

The section telling three serious Low Points of life on the farm is presented as cautionary tales and lessons learned. Farmers should not take risks with machinery, should fess up, pay up, and know when to give up on trying to fix broken machines. Appreciate your local rescue squad. Don’t blame fate for effects of your errors, or your inattention. Follow standard safety procedures. Only do dangerous work with someone else nearby, appreciating your local community. Learn from your mistakes. Death will happen. Have a plan for caring for your dead, burying them, gathering friends, mourning them, celebrating their life, keeping mementos, including some of their writing, art or craft, and arranging for farm life to continue while you are doing these things.

Chip’s poems are easy to read, encapsulating the wisdom and wonder of farming. Not many books include an ode to groundhogs, grasshoppers, crickets, mice and slugs! These poems are good to read when you have only two minutes and need a pick-me-up.

Oh, the book has no index! Sad omission, as I’m sure others will want to read parts more than once.

There’s an appendix for busy readers, by Susan. History, methods used on their farm to replenish the soil, include cover crops and hay mulch, sow and transplant, manage pests including weeds, insects, diseases (baking soda works as well as two commercial fungicides for hay-mulched musk melons, plastic mulch prevents splash-back fungal problems). They bought only used equipment, including several tractors and a bean picking machine. The buildings included their house, a large bank barn (worker housing, equipment storage and chickens).

They added hoop houses, a workshop, a worker kitchen, a seasonal bath house, a greenhouse. They built crates and pallets, developed a fast system for filling flats with medium. They used a scale to weigh filled flats and determine if they held enough water (a method for new people until they got the hang of what the correct weight felt like.) Seven foot deer fencing around their 60 acres became essential once their neighbors at Potomac Vegetable Farms had fenced their 400 acres.

Mulch is valuable stuff. On 20 or 25 acres, the Planks roll out 5”-6” of low-grade hay from 500-700 pound round bales, paying $10-$12 each. This saves a lot of cultivation and adds organic matter to the soil, while storing rain and preventing run-off erosion. There are more advantages listed.

After trying many crops, they eliminated peas, snap peas, potatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, celery, kale, collards, leeks, fennel, sweet potatoes, rhubarb, strawberries and raspberries. They focused on multiple successions and multiple varieties of the crops that did best for them and that customers wanted. They chose good-flavored varieties.

They settled on a uniform price per pound for squash, cukes, eggplants and onions, to make check out easier. Their lettuce was entirely Batavian Summer Crisp types that do well in spring, summer and fall, entirely grown from transplants germinated in the basement. The transplants were popped into plastic mulched beds, hooped and covered until saleable, then cut 2” above the ground for two weeks of regrowth. The cut leaves were washed, mixed and bagged. Direct-seeded greens were sown in mid-August, again in mid-September, in broadcast patches.

Work shifts were 8-12, 2-6, or when very hot, 8-12 and 3-7 or 7-11 and 3-7. Each worker (not Susan and Chip) had one day off per week (staggered and excluding market days of Friday and Saturday). Everyone went to market two days a week. They paid their middle and high school children at worker rates.

In retirement, Chip and Susan have 1/10 acre vegetables on landscape fabric. And they have written this book, Sky Blue Trades.  $13

A 200-year-old Norwegian Farm; and an ancient fertilizer returns to use.

A 200 Year Old Norwegian Farm

Here’s a lovely video I found in the newsletter from Lynbreck Croft, in the highlands of Scotland.

Sandra says:

“This month’s recommendation points to a short film rather than a book. It portrays the life of Helene, a farmer who cares for her land on the west coast of Norway.

To me this story represents all that is good in this world. A deep sense of connection and rootedness to the land, a love for traditional skills and creation of things that are both useful and beautiful, an appreciation for natural materials, the respectful interaction with animals, the care of one’s belongings ensuring their longevity, supporting people in finding their place in the natural environment…

Among many others, one of the messages that really stuck was that the effort of each and one of us to make a difference in this world matters. It has value, irrespective of how seemingly small it might seem in the moment and that is such an encouraging thought to carry along through life.”

24 Hours on a 200 Year Old Norwegian Farm (a video everyone should watch)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6QkaMpVHcg

This is Helene Olli. I just want to add, that the people Hunter call[s] “farm hands” is [are] WWOOFers and other volunteers. I have been a host for WWOOF Norway since 2015. I have had so much help from fantastic people from around the world th[ese] summers, also some winters. I really, really want to give them credit for helping me [with] building the farm, and also running it. My policy is this: if you stay in Gripen, helping with the farm, it gets a little bit yours. I have a lot of returning volunteers, and I feel I have a much bigger family because of this. I am so happy and thankful that they want to stay and contribute. I wish that could have been more visible in the video, but I am saying it now. I am so blessed, having so much good people around!

LynBreck COURSES – Limited availability left for 2026

Lynbreck BOOK. Our Wild Farming Life: Adventures on a Scottish Highland Croft. I have reviewed their book Our Wild Farming Life.

Or you can sign up to be on the mailing list for their newsletter.

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Aurin Fertilizer: an ancient fertilizer returns to use

On a completely different topic, linked to the one above by the desire and practice of living lightly on the earth, here is information about Aurin, a fertilizer from VunaNexus, that is approved for use in France and Switzerland. Not available in the US, so you’ll have to make your own. I wrote about urine fertilizer Here.

Bottle of Aurin Fertilizer

The VunaNexus company say they are recovering minerals, similarly to what is commonly done to recover minerals from used electronics. They supply urine-diverting toilets which send the urine (without diluting it with water) into a small treatment plant in the basement of the building. The treatment plant first removes pollutants such as antibiotics, hormones, and drug residues, then concentrates the nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus while pasteurizing the liquid at 90C (194F) to kill potential viruses and other pathogens. Pure water is distilled out of the liquid and returned to the flushing system. This leaves Aurin, the liquid fertilizer, sold in 0.5 L (1 quart) recyclable PET bottles, as well as 5 L (1.3 US gallons), and 10L (2.6 US gallons) jerricans.

Label of Aurin fertilizer

Their urine-diverting toilets are used by the European Space Agency in Paris and the fertilizer is being tested by city authorities in Paris, Lausanne and Zurich. Any lingering prejudice that this is just a hippy idea is fading fast in these days of fertilizer supply chain disruptions in the Strait of Hormuz. The UN says 45 million people are at risk of acute hunger because the conflicts in the Middle East have increased fertilizer prices. We don’t need petroleum-based fertilizers as long as we have urine!

The chief executive of VunaNexus says that if we recycle all the human urine in Europe, we could provide 30% of the nitrogen needs of their farms, provide a more sustainable option to water treatment systems, and reduce the environmental impact of petroleum fertilizers.

Aurin in large-scale agricultural use. Photo VunaNexus

The original idea came from a research project over 10 years ago in South Africa. I read about this company in the Guardian of 12 June 2026 in an article by Chloe Farand


Here’s a late addition from Harvest to Table by Stephen Albert.

He has just reorganized his writings on the topic of Surviving the Summer Heat—Your Complete Guide to Gardening Through Heat Waves

in a special edition of his Substack

This post has lots of helpful tips on heat stress, watering, shade, mulch, pollination, and helping plants recover from heatwaves.

Podcast with Seedtime, on Growing Food in an Intentional Community

Here’s a podcast I did with Seedtime.us

My name is spelled wrong on the YouTube page. It’s Dawling, not Dowling.

The title of the podcast refers to our decision some years ago, after 15 years of extensive trials, to stop growing bulb onions. Luke Hammond, the interviewer, was surprised we have chosen to forego such a basic crop. Most of the podcast is not about onions! But here I will give some background to that decision.

Onion variety trial bed in late April.
Photo Kathryn Simmons

Onion Varieties

Onions are an exacting crop. Knowing how to get the best from your seeds will greatly improve your chances of success. It’s important to grow varieties that are suitable for the latitude of your farm.  The further north you are, the longer the number of daylight hours you have in summer. I garden on the 38th parallel, the natural home of neither the Short day (Sweet Vidalia type) nor the Long day onion (hard, strong-flavored storing varieties). The names refer to the relative daylight length needed before the plant will start to make a bulb. The dividing line between short day (south of 35º) and long day (north of 38º) varieties is around 35-36-37º latitude. This reality, plus my own confusion, led us to study and experiment to find ways to work with the needs of this crop, to improve our harvest.

Onion Growth Stages

Onions are cool season plants.  They have 3 distinct phases of growth and the switch from one to the next is triggered by environmental factors.  It does not work to plant onions at a random date in the year without taking account of these environmental factors. Onions transition from the vegetative (leafy) to the bulbing stage at a precise daylength for that variety.

To grow large onions it is important to produce large healthy plants before the vegetative stage gives way to the bulbing stage.  Each onion leaf represents one ring of the future onion bulb.  The larger the leaf, the larger the ring becomes.  If plants are small when bulbing starts, only small bulbs are possible.  Cool, but not cold, weather encourages heavy leaf growth.  Onion seedlings are slow growing – in spring they can take 10 weeks to reach a size suitable for transplanting.

Here at 38ºN, our longest day (summer solstice) has 14 hours and 46 minutes of daylight. We have 14 hours of daylight on May 6th.  A few varieties of Long Day onions can be grown here, but those requiring 15 or 16 hours of daylight will never form bulbs at this latitude, unfortunately.

Onion Types

Short Day onions start to bulb at 10-12 hours of daylight, provided temperatures are warm enough.  In the south, below 35ºN, they are sown in September or October, grow through the winter, and are harvested in May-June. Onions can survive 20ºF (-6.7ºC), but not worse. We have tried over-wintering onions outdoors, but even with rowcover, our losses were too high. Here we reach 10 hours of daylight on January 21; 11 hours on February 20; and 12 hours, naturally enough, at the spring equinox. Bulbing initiation gets delayed  beyond the daylight trigger, until temperatures are higher than 60ºF-70ºF (15.5ºC-21ºC), (which is early April here). If we grow Short Day varieties here, they only have a brief time in spring  to grow a decent sized plant before bulbing starts. Therefore it’s a waste of time to sow Short Day onions here in spring.

Hot, wet weather is the worst for onion growing and harvesting, so it is best not to let the onions sit around in wet soil during very hot days. Harvest them, get them under shade and a roof to dry down. Trimming should begin about two weeks after you started hanging the onions.

Bulb onions curing on a rack.
Photo Wren Vile

After a rack has been hanging for two weeks, test them by feeling maybe a dozen necks to see if they are ready for trimming. This involves pinching the necks gently just next to the bulb, and then rubbing/rolling your fingers together. They are ready for trimming if the majority of the necks feel dry and strawy.

Why We Didn’t Succeed With Onions

We really wanted to grow bulb onions for year-round use, therefore we needed some storing onions. We can grow “Eat Right Away” onions, but only for a short window of the year. Local growers succeed with onions by growing varieties like Ailsa Craig to sell freshly harvested. But a ton of onions for one week didn’t answer our need! The storing long day varieties mostly grow north of 38º, not here. We found a few with small success (short term storage).

Our second problem was our curing conditions. Our barn is hot and sometimes humid. We needed fast drying so they didn’t rot. The onions we could grow were not as huge as the big round onions we could buy (not organic) at the wholesale market. Our cooks preferred convenience over Organic. Remember, cooking for a hundred people is not a walk in the park!

So, eventually we gave up on bulb onions. We grew yellow potato onions for quite a few years. Those aren’t big either, but the small ones do store very well. Nowadays we grow lots of garlic and lots of scallions.

Yellow Potato Onions.
Photo Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

 

Book Review: The Self-Fed Farm and Garden, Eliot Coleman

 

The Self-Fed Farm and Garden, by Eliot Coleman

Book Review: The Self-Fed Farm and Garden, Eliot Coleman. Chelsea Green. November 2025. 208 pages, $29.95 USD, $40.00 CAN

Eliot Coleman has been one of my vegetable-growing gurus since he wrote The New Organic Grower in 1989, and his latest book, The Self-Fed Farm and Garden, confirms our alignment once again. Biologically based agriculture can create and maintain lasting soil fertility by relying on ancient peasant knowledge about the importance of returning organic wastes to the soil. It is time to focus on maintaining soil fertility by farm-grown systems in a clean, safe, self-contained method of production.

Real Organic Project logo

Eliot’s book is a valuable contribution to the Real Organic movement, a return to the less industrial roots of growing healthy food. Aim to keep every bed filled with a seasonal vegetable, fruit or a productive green manure crop. Organic farming is an embrace of the soil’s biological systems, not a focus on rejecting chemicals. It is not necessary or wise to import organic waste materials from elsewhere (probably to the deprivation of the land they came from).

Here are clear, concise descriptions of systems for developing and maintaining rich soil that will sustain itself over the long-term, using incorporation of green manures by shallow tilling, adding nitrogen to the soil by growing legumes, and using a crop rotation system to manage pests, weeds and the distribution of nutrients. As there are almost no purchased imports, this method is accessible to farmers everywhere, who have little money but a commitment to pay attention to their soil.

A self-sustaining system with no imported additions to the soil avoids risks of introducing incidental pollutants to your farm, such as PFAS from sewage sludge. Purchased composts and manures can contain pesticides, herbicides, heavy metals, antibiotics, hormones, and other veterinary medications. The only sure way to have clean and fertile soil is to grow your own organic matter right on the farm. A direct outcome of organic soil care is the production of crops with active immune systems, resisting pests and diseases.

Eliot distinguishes between green manures sown for the purpose of incorporating into the soil, and cover crops grown to scavenge soluble nutrients from the soil and protect the soil from erosion. The latter are cut and left on the surface, and do not provide as many nutrients as those incorporated. These groups overlap, and both are components of self-fed farm systems. I tend to call them all “cover crops”.

The Self-Fed Farm and Garden includes many quotes from earlier organic farming writers. In 1908, Liberty Hyde Bailey said, “Every well-managed soil should grow richer rather than poorer; and, speaking broadly, the farm should have within itself the power of perpetuating itself.”

Gardening with Nature, by Leonard Wickenden
https://www.abebooks.com/first-edition

Leonard Wickenden, in Gardening with Nature in 1954, addressed the claim that if you are selling products off the farm, you will exhaust the soil if you don’t deliberately replace the nutrients you remove. Wickenden pointed out that annual additions to replace a particular nutrient removed by a crop will likely only make a tiny change to the vast amount in the soil. Wickenden said: “Let your aim be to feed your soil – not your plants.” The soil is not an inert medium for moving nutrients to the crop. Feeding the soil with organic matter leads to “a process of day-by-day nourishment which will produce sturdy vigor in the crop.” As the OM decays, it adds many nutrients, including minerals pulled from the soil into solution by acids that develop.

Adrian Pieters’ book Green Manuring (1927).
https://www.amazon.com

Adrian Pieters in his book Green Manuring (1927) suggested that green manures alone might not be enough to maintain organic matter long term. However, it has become apparent that once a vigorous soil biology is established, it is possible to maintain soil fertility with very small inputs. One purchased mineral you might need is boron. (Granubor is made in the USA and every batch is traceable to its source.)  Another is local rock dusts, which need more research.

Alexis Carrel, Man, the Unknown (1935)
Goodreads.com

Alexis Carrel, in his book Man, the Unknown (1935), made this important point: “Chemical fertilizers, by increasing the abundance of the crops without replacing all the exhausted elements of the soil, have indirectly contributed to change the nutritive value of cereal grains and vegetables.” By “change”, he means “decrease”!

Eliot points out that his system of including a rye and vetch mixture on one-third of their land answers this concern. Sown in October, it is mown and shredded in mid-August, allowing the self-sown mature seed to grow for the second cover crop year.  The following April it provides a large mass of high-lignin residues to increase the total soil OM. The root system of this crop is huge, and the fresh green growth is tilled under and allowed to decompose for three weeks before planting vegetables. Every grower can design a green manure combination and sequence suiting their land and climate. Experimentation and careful monitoring will help determine the best choices.

Rye and hairy vetch cover crop. Photo Kathryn Simmons

One handful of fertile soil is thought to hold many more living creatures than there are humans on Earth. The whole farm can be considered a living organism. Biologically self-sufficient organic farming or gardening will maximize the health of the whole farm. When he began farming, in New Hampshire, Eliot received gifts of piles of rotted horse and chicken manure and granite dust waste. These additions helped him grow magnificent crops from the beginning. Eliot acknowledges that his farm was not self-sufficient from day one, and he lists seven related questions, including how long his initial inputs would be enough to feed the soil, and whether a food producer could create and then maintain fertile soil entirely from internal systems. To test out this latter idea, he has set aside two acres to see how long it takes to bring the fertility of that patch of soil up to the standards of the rest of the farm, using a dedicated green manure program.

Organic farming books of the 1960s used to focus on listing which organically acceptable soil amendments could be used as substitutes for bagged NPK, and organic gardening magazines in Eliot’s early years of farming were kept afloat by advertisements for organic products. Those products make profits for the manufacturing companies, not for the grower. Eliot says the focus on purchased inputs gave the impression that this is the main foundation of organic farming, ignoring the vital practices and methods of maintaining a healthy soil. Take care of the soil and the plants by using sustainable methods, not by substituting USDA Organic-labelled products for industrial chemical fertilizers and pesticides! It is time to refocus on organic techniques, as Real Organic is doing. Organic Matter is the vital amendment to continue to focus on every year, to prevent soil exhaustion, not minerals.

Plowman’s Folly, by Edward H. Faulkner
Amazon.com

Shallow incorporation of crop residues and green manures helps provide a secure food supply, without need of purchased compost or manure. The Self-Fed farm is not a No-Till farm. Edward Faulkner, author of Plowman’s Folly, often hailed as the parent of no-till, was not opposed to tillage, but to the moldboard plow in particular. His later book, A Second Look, advocates for shallow incorporation of residues and green manures, to maintain soil fertility.

I encourage No-Till farmers and gardeners to read The Self-Fed Farm, and consider the pros and cons of each system, or more precisely, the situations where no-till is appropriate and those where shallow incorporation of green manures provides the best for the soil.

European farmers settling in North America practiced a kind of soil-mining, extracting crops without consideration of the future. Once yields became too low, they moved west and repeated the process. Fertilizer inputs from Peruvian bat guano from the 1830s led the shift towards bought-in inputs, a one-way transfer of materials from a source to the farm. When the guano deposits were completely exhausted, the chemical fertilizer industry began to grow.

In England in 1843, superphosphate started to be manufactured, by treating bones with sulfuric acid, rendering the phosphorus very accessible. Previously bones had been steamed and ground to make their nutrients more accessible.

Another popular purchased chemical fertilizer was Chilean nitrate, from the Atacama. This was a further shift towards substitution of a purchased product for a process performed on site by the farmers themselves, growing leguminous green manures to use the nitrogen in the air to feed the soil and crops.

In the early 20th century, the Clifton Park System of Farming was written up by Robert Elliot, to help other farmers successfully maintain perpetual soil fertility without purchased inputs. The sequence involves rotating crops and pastured livestock: 4 years grazing on deep-rooted grasses and legumes, 4 years using the tilled pasture to grow annual grains on half, beans and vegetables on the other half. This system is called ley farming.

USDA Organic Certification has moved from an understanding of the relation between soil quality and food quality, to a box-checking business that wiggles around Organic restrictions. Now hydroponics, and compost made with effluent from Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations can be included under the USDA Organic umbrella. Fertile soil is a cornerstone of organic farming, but hydroponics uses NO soil! Traditional organic farmers knew that crops grown in water or an inert medium provided with liquid fertilizers would lack some nutrients. “Organic hydroponics” are a fraud, requiring many inputs and large amounts of energy for lighting, pumps and filters.

While I admire the extensive research Eliot has done into traditional European farming practices, I find myself wondering about all the invisible female European vegetable growers, all the vegetable growers in other continents and other cultures, while not dismissing the research provided here. A person can only spend so much time on research, I get that. And Eliot has been a leader in not only research and production, but also education via his books, and workshops.

When Eliot and family began at their Maine farm, they cleared spruce and fir trees, opening up a sandy soil with a very acidic pH of 4.3. For several years they added limestone at 1 ton per acre to raise the pH to 6.0-7.0, more suitable for vegetables and bacterial life. Since then, they have only needed to add small amounts of limestone from time to time. I found similar results on our farm in central Virginia – after a few years of adjusting the pH, the soil has rarely needed more lime.

My heart was warmed to see the title of chapter 4: In Defense of Intelligent Tillage, as I am one of those growers who has questioned the Never Till philosophy and welcomed the “till when you really need to” approach. I saw the damage that “Till often to control the weeds” did to the soil, beating up the soil particles, destroying some soil life and speeding up the combustion of the organic matter by adding so much air. To achieve the benefits of incorporating green materials into the soil, it is necessary to mix them into the top 4” (10cm), where the roots of the young plants will be. Cutting and dropping cover crops on the surface is useful, but incorporating them feeds microbes and larger organisms, which then produce more stable soil aggregates and a better-functioning soil. For the benefits of green manures to outweigh the downsides of tillage, a large biomass of green material is needed.

A 2007 study at ARS Beltsville, Maryland, showed that organic farming’s use of manure and green manures can build soil OM quicker than chemical no-till farming. The result took several years to become clear. Pasa’s Soil Benchmark Study, measuring physical and biological soil health, showed that tilling for weed control and bed preparation on an organic farm was not detrimental compared with no-till. Both methods can work on organic farms.

The third example given is the Rodale Institute, which had very strict no-till rules for farms to be accepted under their Regenerative Organic Certification program started in 2017. Few organic vegetable farms could meet those standards, causing the Rodale Institute to take stock and change the rules. Now soil disturbance is allowed to incorporate crop residues and green manures, control weeds, prepare beds for planting, break up compacted soil or improve drainage.

The fourth example is in The Soil and the Microbe, (1931) by Waksman and Starkey, where the age at which the crop is incorporated in the soil is considered. Younger crops with low C:N ratios decompose more quickly and provide more nitrogen, compared with mature green manures with higher C:N ratios that decompose more slowly. These add more long-lasting OM due to the fiber and lignin they contain.

Eliot is thoughtful in his considerations, just as he was in comparing the ecological costs of plastic greenhouse coverings in his earlier books. Here we look at the fuel needed to do the tilling. Not mentioned are the ecological costs of large plastic tarps used by many no-till farmers to kill weeds and crop residues in organic no-till farming.

There is an appendix of green manures, when to sow them, when to incorporate and which crops could follow. This is a model of how to design a system for a self-fed farm or garden in Maine, or elsewhere when modified. In zone 7a, I would avoid ryegrass, for instance, as it quickly becomes an invasive weed.

This book contains many useful tips on growing cover crops/green manures, even if you are farming far from Maine. Winter-killed green manures in Miane include bell beans, annual alfalfa, buckwheat, forage radish, peas and oats. These can sometimes be raked aside to plant early crops without tilling. Those surviving the winters there include forage chicory, rye, hairy vetch, and red clover. Once you know your lowest winter temperature, you can determine which cover crops to grow over the winter. Climate chaos has made winter-kill of oats uncertain in cold-hardiness zone 7a.

Pay attention to fall sowing dates of cover crops. A Washington State University study of mustard found that an August 13 sowing provided bountiful biomass, a September 3 sowing provided very little, and a September 10 provided nothing worthwhile. As days get shorter and colder, the number of days to maturity of a crop increases rapidly. Don’t delay! But don’t plant too early, as this can lead to cover crops setting viable seed before winter. In central Virginia we know not to sow winter rye in August for this reason.

Some green manure crops can be sown (broadcast or drilled with a small push seeder) while a vegetable crop is in place, to succeed them once the food crop is finished. This increases productivity and reduces tilling. Eliot sows sweet clover under established winter squash plants. Undersowing is time-sensitive and worth experimenting with several times to get best results. Generally undersowing green manures 3-4 weeks after the food crop is planted is about right. Cultivate to remove weeds, then sow the cover crop right away.

Buckwheat in flower in September.
Photo Pam Dawling

Chapter Six provides more information on specific green manures. Cereal rye and hairy vetch (4:1 ratio); field peas and oats sown August 15-September 7 to winter-kill in January; bell beans (small fava beans) drilled in late summer along with broadcast oats, to be winter-killed; buckwheat during the frost-free period, ending 4 weeks before the expected first frost (to be winter-killed); forage radish sown in fall to be winter-killed and suppress nematodes before a tomato crop the next year; Mighty Mustard (Brassica juncea) sown as a soil biofumigant for a pasture being tilled under to grow vegetables; red clover with ryegrass (1:1) for a quick green manure anywhere; forage chicory (or Belgian endive); spinach crop residues before peppers; sweet corn (undersown with soybeans) before potatoes.

Insects and diseases on the crops are indicators of unideal growing conditions. Using pesticides is shooting the messenger and ignoring the message. Many bad things can be avoided by growers paying attention and supplying what the soil needs. But I still believe that bad things can happen to good people.

At Four Season Farm, 40-50 different vegetable crops were grown, belonging to ten botanical families. Crop rotations are designed to avoid growing the same or a closely related crop in the same place in successive years. Green manures need consideration too, in rotation planning. At Four Season Farm, the 3 acres are divided into 75 plots 30’ x 50’ (9.1m x 15.2m). Fall harvest crops are growing in 25 of those, followed by the rye and vetch biomass green manure.

Seven of the remaining 50 plots are covered by 7 moveable high tunnels, with their “partner” plots growing a green manure as soil regeneration in preparation for being covered by the high tunnel next. The remaining plots are subdivided into eight 30” (76cm) beds with 12” (30cm) paths. Ideally the groups of eight beds are planted up at the same time for efficient management. After harvest those beds get the residues incorporated and a green manure is sown two weeks later. The goal is always to minimize the amount of time with nothing growing. Green manures between food crops in the rotation are chosen to fit the length of the gap and the time of year, as well as the preceding and following food crops.

Adding 4-legged livestock can provide safe manure (and milk and/or meat), but can complicate your life a lot, if good organic animal feed is important to you.

Converting crop residues and weeds into compost makes another excellent soil-improver, and by making it yourself, you learn what works and what doesn’t. Compost-making can require a lot of work, and not all growers find it worthwhile.  Eliot makes compost in small amounts with residues that can’t be directly tilled in. Are the compost microorganisms different enough to make the process worthwhile? This is not the place for that debate. The answer may depend on how long you have been farming that land, how long your growing season is, whether you have byproducts from any value-added foods you sell, and how many green manure crops you manage to include each year. I am a believer in compost, but my situation is not identical to Eliot’s.

You may find, as Eliot did, that increasing your crop area by 20% enables you to include more green manures in your rotation and reduce the stress of fast turn-arounds, which are becoming harder as the climate becomes less predictable. The book includes tips on growing successful green manures, and also a section for adapting the info in the book to home gardens.

Eliot and his wife Barbara are resuscitating their 50’ x 50’ (15.2m x 15.2m) home garden, divided in half. One half will grow vegetables each year (with buckwheat as green manure in intervals between following vegetable crops) and the other half a grass-legume pasture. They plan to mow the buckwheat high before 20% is in bloom.

On his 86th birthday, in 2024, Eliot and Barbara retired from daily market farming and leased Four Season Farm to younger farmers.

Book Review: What Your Food Ate, Montgomery and Biklé

                                                                                                                         Book Review: What Your Food Ate: How to Heal Our Land and Reclaim Our Health. David Montgomery and Anne Biklé. Norton, New York, 2022. 380 pages, USD $18.95, CAD $24.95 paperback.

To have healthy food we need to start with healthy soil. This book is a call to be part of the regenerative farming movement that includes successful practical, cost-effective ways to care for the soil-and-food aspect of our lives.

What Your Food Ate is well-researched, convincing, very readable, well-written and lively. It is a book to read carefully, in small bites: rich, nutritious and very filling. Your brain will need time to digest each chapter. A book to come back to repeatedly, to top up your learning and check your beliefs.

Dave is a geologist, Anne a biologist. They re-examine beliefs about health, medicine, our bodies, our food and our farming, showing how regenerative farming can heal the soil, restore the land and grow nutrient-dense, flavor-packed food, helping us towards better health. The health of the pasture influences the health of the livestock. And the health of our food influences our own health. Hence the title of this book, What Your Food Ate.

The food we buy today is a lot less nutritious than that our grandparents ate as children. You need to eat several of today’s apples to keep the doctor away! When food production follows short-sighted goals, water and air pollution, climate chaos, and bad working conditions for farm laborers all prevent optimal general health and well-being.

Desires for easily obtained (“cheap”) food, sufficient for everyone (if fairly distributed) led some to believe bigger was better, and more was better still, with a focus on calories rather than quality. Nowadays, over two-thirds of Americans are overweight, and obesity-related illnesses account for 20% of healthcare spending. The percentage of income spent on food fell by half since the 1950s, but the cost to society of healthcare more than doubled. It has become more profitable to treat chronic diseases than to prevent or cure them in the first place. How food is grown affects human health. Cheap food has high costs!

In the past century we have switched from eating mostly minimally processed plant foods and some meat, to more than half the calories filling up North Americans now coming from ultra-processed foods. Many chronic diseases and auto-immune disorders arise from inflammation promoted by refined carbohydrates, highly processed meats, trans fats and some vegetable oils.

In good soil, plants take in what they need of both macro- and micro-nutrients. Disruption caused by the agronomic trinity of mechanized tillage, agrochemicals and monocultures leads to weaker plants and less nutritious food. Industrial fertilizers tend to contain only macronutrients. These do spur growth, especially in poor soils. But plants (and animals) need micronutrients too.

How do plants eat? Photosynthesis fuels plant growth by combining water with carbon dioxide. The soluble part of the humus in the soil is drawn up in water by the roots, growing the plant. This discovery led to the temptation to supply soluble chemicals directly to the soil to boost growth (hydroponics).

How do insoluble minerals move from the soil into the plants and animals that become our food? Rocks and soil supply the elements that don’t come from air or water, via the bodies of microbes (bacteria and fungi, including mycorrhizal fungi that coat the roots of some crops), cycling them around. For those seeking a concise understandable description of plant nutrition, photosynthesis and soil microbes, you’ll find it here.

Co-Author Anne Biklé

Carbon makes up half of the soil organic matter; plants actively recruit and support communities of microbes that promote their well-being. A 1994 study showed that tropical soils could only be tilled profitably for less than ten years, after which the organic matter had been used up. Temperate prairie soils typically survive for just over 50 years of tillage before wearing out. Starving soil microbes in the pursuit of quantity cannot provide quality crops.

USDA agronomists found significant declines in iron, zinc, and selenium in wheat varieties from 1873 to 1995. When high-yielding Green Revolution varieties were introduced they unintentionally decreased mineral density. Breeding for larger size causes the nutrients to be diluted to fill the larger product. But ignoring nutrient density, we are feeding many people a relatively empty diet, leading to obesity and chronic illness. In the same world, other people have insufficient calories and chronic micronutrient deficiencies.

In England, the Broadbalk Wheat Experiment started in 1843 to test the effects of various chemical fertilizers and organic manures on yields. Concentrations of four minerals in the wheat remained stable until about 1960 than decreased significantly every year after that, despite there being no decline in the mineral levels in the soil.

A wheat farmer in Oregon grew two adjacent fields of the same crops, under two different methods of weed control. One was the conventional method of continuous winter wheat with applications of glyphosate. The other was a complex rotation of spring barley, winter wheat and a cover crop mix. The purpose was to determine if keeping the fields vegetated year-round would outcompete the weeds and make glyphosate unnecessary. After two years both fields produced 75 bushels an acre. The wheat from the cover-cropped field had 35%-56% more boron, manganese, and zinc, and 18%-29% more copper, iron and magnesium, without any supplemental minerals. Trillions of microbes were ferrying the minerals to the crop.

Suspicion that farming practices, soil health, nutrient density and human health were declining had been a concern in England since 1939. A 1936 study found two-thirds of children had major dental problems. For comparison, the English population of Tristan da Cunha, an island in the south Atlantic, had perfect teeth. The agricultural methods were to blame. It is now thought that exposure to soil and its microbes, fungi and bacteria early in life protects against asthma and allergies. A troubling question has been whether we can feed the world while also nurturing soil life and building fertility. It might be thought that the decline in nutrient content could be offset by eating more, but that is not so.

Although nitrogen is nitrogen regardless of the source, there are differences in what else (if anything) is delivered with the nitrogen. Synthetic nitrogen can stimulate microbial activity, causing organic matter to break down quickly. Corn, wheat and rice all take up more nitrogen from the soil organic matter than directly from applied chemical fertilizers.

A 2017 analysis of 56 studies globally paired organically farmed and “conventionally” farmed fields with the same soil type, for 16 years. Organically farmed soils held almost 50% more carbon and nitrogen, with more microbial diversity than the conventionally farmed soils.

When farmers in the 1990s took a shortcut to dealing with weeds using glyphosate, they found that glyphosate-resistant GM corn, cotton or soybean yields did not grow bigger than non-GM crops despite the lack of weeds.  And by 2012, almost 50% of farmers had glyphosate-resistant weeds in their fields.

Glyphosate was marketed in 1964 for cleaning corroding pipes. Next it was marketed as an antibiotic. Consuming antibiotic-laced food messes with our gut microbiota. Roughly 40% of the molecules in our bodies come directly or indirectly from our gut microbiota.

Co-Author David Montgomery

In the soil, glyphosate binds to minerals, substantially reducing uptake of copper, zinc, manganese, iron and calcium, making them almost unavailable to plants and microbes. After glyphosate use, neither crop plants nor weeds are able to make several essential amino acids. Glyphosate damages the mitochondria of some plant and animal cells (but apparently not mammals). Beneficial microbes suffer from being dosed with an antibiotic, leaving plants vulnerable to pathogenic fungi such as root rots, and the consequent stunting of growth. In the 1990s, 24 diseases in 14 crops were found to have increased with glyphosate use.

Modern processing strips important nutrients from our staple grains. It has long been known that white rice causes deficiencies leading to beriberi. A 2010 study showed that eating white rice five or more times a week increases the chance of diabetes by 20%. Eating brown rice twice a week or more decreased the chance of diabetes by 10% compared to eating it only once a month.

During the Second World War, people in the UK switched to being more food self-sufficient. Public health improved during the war years, as people were encouraged to “Dig for Victory”; dietary education was widespread; sugar imports were cut while those of cheese, fish and dried pulses were increased; wartime bread was made with less-refined flour; and food was rationed (meaning rich and poor got more equal access). The health of the nation improved.

After the war, nitrogen fertilizer was promoted, using factories where nitrogen had been made into explosives. High levels of nitrogen in our food and water react with amines in our stomachs, forming nitrosamines, associated with cancer of the stomach, bladder, and in men, the prostate, in women, the ovaries. Colorectal cancer and thyroid disease, as well as birth defects, are connected with high nitrate levels in drinking water. Minerals and vitamins are adversely affected by high nitrate levels. Consuming fresh vegetables and fruit provides something of a protective effect.

When the USDA decided to include hydroponic food production as Organic, many farmers pointed to the wording in the Standards requiring good soil health practices, and formed the Real Organic Project. Hydroponic growers choose what to put in the water they cycle through the roots of their crops. When profitability and not health is the highest value, they add the NPK and not the micronutrients.

Relying on chemical fertilizers increases the demand for pesticides; higher pesticide use compromises plants’ ability to defend against soilborne pathogens. Soils farmed organically have a higher abundance of mycorrhizal fungi, likely contributing to disease suppression. Soil building practices improve soil health, crop health and human health. Microbes from compost provide huge benefits to the soil, even when the compost is spread only thinly. They boost the abundance and activity around the crop roots and suppress pathogens.

Farming practices that promote mycorrhizae and increase the beneficial bacteria will increase the mineral and phytochemical content of the crops, making them healthier, more resilient and more productive. People eating those crops have the phytochemicals they need to enjoy good health. Just a month on a phytochemical-rich diet (whole grains, nuts, at least six servings of vegetables and fruits daily) reduce cholesterol levels by around 15% and increase antioxidant activity by 1/3-2/3. Consuming half a clove of garlic a day can reduce cholesterol levels by 10% – I’m not sure how long that regimen lasted.

Silverwhite Silverskin garlic
Photo Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Of 100 preschool children in Seattle, 99 had measurable amounts of at least one pesticide residue. Almost 75 had two or more. Those in households where pesticides were used in the garden had higher levels than those that did not use pesticides. Tests on 1,000 adults in the US found pesticide residues in all but 20 people, indicating widespread contamination. Levels varied one-hundred-fold. Changing to an organic diet can decrease levels within a week.

Pesticides have effects beyond the target plant. Acute exposure is most dangerous, but chronic exposure from inhalation, skin exposure, food and water can all take a toll over time. Falling human fertility rates have been linked to pesticides. Prenatal exposure has been linked to developmental problems in the first two years of life. Childhood exposure increases the odds of ADHD and other neurobehavioral problems as well as leukemia and non-Hodgkin lymphoma. Farmers, with a higher-than-average exposure to glyphosate, have higher rates of lymphatic cancers. Pesticide residues are also associated with many gastrointestinal, neurological, respiratory and reproductive effects, Parkinson’s disease and endocrine disorders.

Over the past century our growing use of pesticides has killed off almost half of the world’s insects, and large numbers of grassland birds. Among conventional agronomists glyphosate is generally regarded as safe because it has low acute toxicity and it was believed to break down rapidly in the soil. More recently, concern has increased, partly because glyphosate seems to be everywhere.

Particularly virulent poultry pathogens (Salmonella and Clostridium) are highly resistant to glyphosate, while beneficial bacteria are killed. Glyphosate is toxic to lactic-acid bacteria that usually control Clostridium botulinum in cattle. Ingestion of glyphosate-contaminated feed could undermine the balance in the gut of the cattle and predispose them to disease.

Some phytochemicals, such as glucosinolates, control soilborne pests, including fungi, bacteria, insects and invertebrates. Healthy soil helps plants resist pests and pathogens, and reduces the need for pesticides. Pests rebound faster than their predators, so the pests rebound in sprayed fields which soon have as many pests as unsprayed fields. Unsprayed fields have more predators, and no sprays. Composted plant debris and manure decrease the number of pathogens. Crop rotations can reduce soybean aphid populations to just 25% of prior levels.

The chapter on dairy production is entertaining and illuminating. A cow’s rumen may hold 50 gallons of fermenting forage and trillions of microbes. The bodies of the bacteria provide protein to the cow, who converts them into meat and milk. Our stomachs are very acidic and do not digest by fermentation but by dissolving our food. Very different.

In fermenting the cow’s feed, the microbiota in the rumen produce two main by-products: gases and fatty acids. Fatty acids combine to make fats, many of which are essential and valuable, such as those that build cell membranes, feed brains and eyes, and contribute to milk. The balance and composition of fats (and phytonutrients) in milk depends on the type and quality of the plants the cows eat.

A young helper in the muddy garden. The cows left footprints but did not help. 
Photo Wren Vile

Today most US cows live indoors eating carbohydrate-rich foods, mostly corn and soy. Their milk contains less milk-fat and more saturated fats than pastured cows. Their butter and cheese are not as nutritious or flavorsome. The phytochemicals with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antitumor effects are in much lower levels in concentrate-fed cows, and their meat is not as good either. Since 1945, death from heart attacks have been associated with eating lots of animal fats, and with cholesterol in particular. The data pointed that way, but other factors, such as unsaturated fats, were overlooked.

The countries with the highest rates of heart attacks and fat consumption also consume the most sugar and omega-6-rich oils from seeds. In a study, Japan and Italy had the lowest rates of fat consumption and heart attacks, with low consumption of omega-6s but lots of other fats, such as omega-3s from fish (Japan) and omega-9s from olive oil (Italy). An ignored Minnesota study from 1968-1973 found that replacing animal fats with omega-6-rich vegetable oils lowered cholesterol but increased death from heart disease.

A balance of omega-6 and omega-3 fats helps the immune system to manage inflammation. The typical American diet today has 10-20 times more omega-6s than omega-3s, 3-5 times higher than what is thought best for health. Chronic inflammation in the arteries is a big risk factor for high blood pressure, heart attacks, and other indicators of cardiovascular disease.

We have been encouraged to think that fish is healthier food than beef, but it depends on what your food ate. Much fish eaten in the US is farmed, kept in pens and fed manufactured feedstocks. They tend to have high ratios of omega-6s to omega-3s. Fully pasture-raised beef can be better!

Chicken is no longer a low-fat alternative to beef. Many chickens today have 5-10 times more fat than those in the late nineteenth century. The ratio of omega-6s to omega-3s has increased a lot.

Half of the cattle in feedlots die of bovine respiratory disease, a non-contagious chronic disease that compromises overall health. Antibiotics are commonly administered as a preventative measure, but these can lead to other problems. Rotational grazing provides ruminants with the best quality forage, and they are experts on choosing which specific items to eat that day based on their needs. Humans also have subconscious body wisdom, and choose particular foods at different times, when they can. Ultra-processed food products have manufactured sweet, salty, umami and oleogustus (fat) flavors added to make them more palatable.

Receptors in the gut pass on info that sets other processes in motion, like the endocrine cells in the gut that adjust the release of insulin to match food intake. Bitter taste receptors nudge us to choose bitter foods which help us deal with some respiratory infections, potentially decreasing the need for antibiotics. Several common bitter dietary phytochemicals, especially kaempferol, resveratrol and quercetin, help knock back coronaviruses, including Covid-19.

A study comparing what people ate on an ultra-processed diet and an unprocessed foods diet found that the ultra-processed diet led people to eat well beyond when they were full and gain about one pound of weight per week. The rush to low-fat diets (without distinguishing between different types of fats) led to Americans eating more low-fiber carbs and gaining lots of weight, as the carbohydrates turned into fats in the body. More bad advice was to choose lean over fatty meat, leading people to consume more processed meats with lots of salt and additives like nitrates.

Diet-related chronic diseases surged in wealthy countries in the twentieth century, and dietary advice swung back and forth. The gut microbiome influences how many calories a person can extract from their food, and weight regulation is not simply balancing calories in with calories out. Low-fat diets lower the level of “good” HDL cholesterol, especially in women, and triglycerides go up. The 1990s Boeing study showed no evidence that saturated fat in the diet led to increased risk of heart disease or fatal heart attacks. 30 years previously the Food and Nutrition Board of the National Academy of Sciences came to much the same conclusion. That was opposite to the newly released US Dietary Guidelines.

Conjugated linoleic acid fat in milk (and meat) from cattle on pasture provides anti-inflammatory benefits, helping prevent some cancers, type 2 diabetes, arterial plaque buildup and bowel inflammation. Counterintuitively, it can help reduce body weight in obese people. A study of 5000 men showed that greater milk consumption is associated with a reduced rate of dying from heart disease or cancer, and no increased risk of dying from any specific cause. The benefits do depend on what the cow ate.

Inflammation is valuable as a short-term defense against things going wrong, but if inflammation becomes chronic, other problems can occur, such as Alzheimer’s, asthma and heart disease. Too much immune system dampening with anti-inflammatories can lead to its own problems. A well-balanced store of fats will help, and that depends on what we eat.

For omega-3s, cold-water fish and small fish, like sardines, as well as walnuts, broccoli, green leafy vegetables and some seed oils including flax and canola are good sources. Meat is only a good source if the diet of the animal provides the right balance. People with the highest omega-3 consumption have lower inflammatory markers, while those with the highest omega-6 consumption have the most.

Inadequate levels of omega-3s, micronutrients and antioxidants seem to have all played a role in health outcomes for people with Covid in the US. High levels of omega-6s may have facilitated the spike protein entering human cells. What a person ate in the few months prior to encountering Covid (or other viruses such as flu) can affect susceptibility. Omega-3-containing foods are the way to go. Omega-3s help reduce the chance of age-related cognitive decline and show promise for treating depression. There are striking parallels between rising homicide rates and increased omega-6 consumption. (Remember that correlation is not causation.) If you want to eat less omega-6s, avoid processed foods full of high omega-6 seed oils, and to better balance the omega-6s and omega-3s, switch over to grass-fed meat, dairy and eggs.

Fiber-rich whole grain diets benefit our health, lowering cholesterol, blood pressure and maybe heart disease, type 2 diabetes and some cancers. We can increase the nutritional content of grains (as true for other plants) by increasing the organic matter in the soil, intercropping legumes and grains, and generally building healthier soils. The System of Rice Intensification (SRI) involves planting rice seedlings at a younger stage, with fewer seedlings per clump, using compost rather than artificial fertilizers and a push weeder that buries weeds in the soil rather than continuous flooding for weed control. This leads to much higher yields, because the soil is healthier.

Vitamin deficiencies are now widespread in the US. Some deficiencies will cause the body to selectively serve short-term needs, setting the stage for trouble later if the diet does not improve. A 2020 study of the diets and health of 200,000 adults over 30 years showed that inflammatory diets were associated with an almost 40% greater risk of cardiovascular disease. A study in Philadelphia found that delivering 3 healthy meals a day to chronically ill Medicaid patients for six months reduced healthcare costs by almost one third. Providing meals cost half as much as a day in hospital.

Reintegrating livestock and vegetable production doesn’t mean letting the cows in the garden!
Photo by Bridget Aleshire

Regenerative farming practices can restore soil health, allowing production of abundant, diverse, nutrient-dense crops. These days there is renewed interest in no-till or reduced-tillage methods. These practices include continuous crop and/or cover crop plants, compost, crop rotations, diverse crops, soil carbon sequestration, and reduced use of gasoline, diesel, chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Often this will include both rotated vegetable crops and rotationally grazed livestock. The combination can profitably build soil and improve our food supply. Building soil health is a sound path forwards. It shapes the health of future generations. We are what our food ate.

Years ago, I enjoyed reading David Montgomery’s earlier book Dirt: The Erosion of Civilizations and was drawn in by the title of this newer book.

The authors have a 50-page 1000-entry reference list, which they wisely decided not to put into the book. It’s available as an e-bibliography at www.dig2grow.com.

See me on the Virginia Home Grown TV program

Virginia Home Grown is a local public television program presented by PBS Virginia Public Media (VPM). Virginia Home Grown features interviews with experts and enthusiasts from around the state. Viewers are invited to submit questions via email to VHG@vpm.org or on Facebook  (facebook.com/VirginiaHomeGrown/). The program airs monthly from March through October.

I appeared in Season 25, Episode 4, Tuesday June 24, 2025, Our Favorite Plants.

Screenshot of the VHG program on Our Favorite Plants. Use the links below to watch the program.

Our Favorite Plants

Here are the links to the full show and cut out segments on the PBS website. These can be watched and shared online or streamed with a smart TV or other device using the PBS App. Watch on PBS.org

Full Show – https://www.pbs.org/video/our-favorite-plants-lu03tv/ 57 mins

Field Interview – Growing a Better Vegetable Garden. 8 mins. https://www.pbs.org/video/growing-a-better-vegetable-garden-luvdxt/ 8 mins Interviewed by Shana Williams farm owner and manager of Williams City Farms, Richmond

Studio Demo – Choosing vegetable varieties https://www.pbs.org/video/choosing-vegetable-varieties-mn80j4/ 6.5 mins Peggy Singlemann

Here are some of the varieties I showed and mentioned during the Studio Demo:

Cherokee heat-resistant Batavian lettuce.
Pam Dawling

Lettuce, Batavian types which do best in hot weather, including Cherokee, Concept, Muir, Cardinale.

Scallions Evergreen Hardy White (very reliable and cold-hardy)

Danvers 126 carrots.
Credit Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Carrots, Danvers 126 reliable productive orange carrots, Fantasia multicolored

Red Cabbage Ruby Perfection

Beets, Cylindra, Formanova cylindrical beets

Bush beans, Provider, (Bush Blue Lake – the one I forgot the name of that day)

Zephyr summer squash.
Photo Kathryn Simmons

Yellow Squash Zephyr

Zucchini Green Machine

Here are some varieties you can see or hear me mention in the Field Interview

Jericho lettuce, a heat-resistant romaine.
Photo by Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Lettuces, Cardinale, Anuenue, Cherokee, Concept, Jericho heat-resistant romaine, New Red Fire leaf lettuce, Swordleaf,

Dazzling Blue kale.
Photo High Mowing Seeds

Kale, Vates dwarf Scotch curled, Dazzling blue lacinato (very cold hardy),

A row of potato seed pieces ready to cover.
Photo by Wren Vile

Potatoes, Red Pontiac, Kennebec

A May sowing of Provider beans in late June.
Photo Pam Dawling

Bush beans Provider

Collards Champion

April snap peas with young squash plants.
Photo Kathryn Simmons

Sugar snap peas Sugar Ann

Mountain Magic tomatoes in mid-July. If only they were bigger than 2oz!
photo Pam Dawling
Garden Peach tomato.
Pam Dawling

Hoophouse: various tomatoes including Mountain Magic (delicious small red disease-resistant and very productive) Defiant, and Garden Peach (fuzzy yellow fruit), bush cucumber Spacemaster, bush beans Strike (more upright than Provider in the hoophouse), squash Golden Glory and Green Machine

Golden Glory zucchini. Open, disease-resistant plants
Photo Pam Dawling

Swiss chard Charbell (resistant to Cercospora leaf spot), Bright Lights

Bright Lights chard.
Photo Pam Dawling

Okra, Clemson Spineless, Burgundy

Green Magic broccoli Credit Johnnys Seeds

Broccoli Green Magic, Marathon

Beauregard sweet potatoes saved for seed stock.
Photo Nina Gentle

Sweet potatoes Beauregard and Georgia Jet

Roma paste tomatoes in mid-August.
Photo Pam Dawling

Paste tomatoes Roma Virginia Select

 

Other parts of the program

Apart from my studio demo interview and my field interview, this episode includes:

Bringing the boxwood back 8 mins. Blight resistant boxwood cultivars are being developed in Virginia. Peggy Singlemann interviews Bennett Saunders from Saunders Brothers in Piney River, VA

Corn, America’s iconic crop 3 mins with Amyrose Foll of Virginia Free Farm

Harvesting broccoli with Randy Battle, Creator of YouTube channel Gardening with SkinnyBoyRandy.

Hybridizing hydrangea paniculata 6 mins. Peggy Singlemann interviews Murray Buckner from Full Moon Blooms

 

Book Review: The Seed Farmer, by Dan Brisebois

Front cover of The Seed Farmer, a book by Dan Brisebois

The Seed Farmer: A Complete Guide to Growing, Using and Selling Your Own Seeds. Dan Brisebois. New Society Publishers, 2025, 214 pages, USD $39.99, CAD $44.99 paperback; USD $26.00, CAD $29.25 digital.

This excellent, well-organized book is a valuable new go-to resource for small-scale vegetable and flower farmers or gardeners planning to grow seed crops alongside produce crops. Whether you do this for your own use or to sell, The Seed Farmer will set you on a successful, sustainable and profitable path. The book also has many tips for experienced seed growers and is equally useful for home gardeners. You can become a larger part of the local food system, protecting yourself from seed supply chain disruptions and ensuring a supply of locally adapted seed within your own control.

This step-by-step manual explains everything clearly. Unlike most seed-growing books, The Seed Farmer helps you get up and running by advocating a simple start your first year, in what Dan calls a First Seed Mindset, growing one seed crop (or 2 or 3) for use on your farm the following year. There is no need to abandon growing food! Dan Brisebois explains how to choose a seed crop that fits in seamlessly with the rest of your growing. This approach makes getting started easy, with little cost in time or money, and no dire consequences if things go wrong. Dan’s writing style is friendly, accessible, compassionate, inspirational and – yes – joyful.

Dan provides help in choosing good seed varieties for your situation, and tips on which crops to leave for later in your career. He shares great hands-on experience growing, harvesting and processing many different crops. He explains the economics of seed growing, and reasons to scale up and sell seeds from your farm. He provides likely seed yields and sets out trustworthy sowing and planting schedules.

Dan’s earlier work on farm planning includes co-authoring Crop Planning for Organic Vegetable Growers. Dan is a founding member of Tourne-Sol co-operative farm, who run a seed business and supply 500 families with weekly CSA produce baskets. Dan writes and teaches well. He is skilled in guiding growers through the intricacies of the slower persistent rhythm of seed growing while not neglecting the weekly rhythm of vegetable production.

Once the First Seed Mindset and experience is acquired, you can progress to more seed crops. This book is one to read from the beginning. Walk, then run and skip!

Choosing Your First Seed Crop

Part 1 of the book gives enough information for growing your first seed crop, ignoring many of the complexities you can consider in the future. Just grow and harvest mature seed of one crop. Understand the limits of your knowledge in Year One: your seed may not be pure and is not saleable. Enjoy sowing it on your own land and seeing what grows.

In choosing your first seed crop, think about what grows easily and well on your farm, and study your seed order to learn which crops would benefit you most if you had your own seed supply. That might be the amount of money you’d save, or the realization that you could develop your own strain that would do better than the seed you are buying.

Self-pollinators (Selfers) are 95% or more pollinated by themselves and so make good First Seed Crops – you can ignore cross-pollination issues and questions of isolation until next year. Choose open-pollinated varieties, because these are stable and will grow predictable results. Beans, peas and lettuce are almost all OPs and make good first seed crops. Fruiting annuals are easiest of all. Just mark off part of the row and keep those fruits until well ripe.

This July lettuce is bolting, starting to make seeds. Photo Alexis Yamashita

Look at the species name and don’t cross two crops in the same species, or you will have 20-50% of plants with mixed genetics. OK for fun, but no good for market gardening. For crops that are harvested before flowering, neighbor plants don’t matter. Harvest the non-seed crop as a vegetable and let only the seed crop flower and set seed. There are plenty of reasons to avoid cross-pollination, and yet some growers like to grow crossed-up populations, known as landraces. Something from such mixes are likely to succeed regardless of that year’s weather.

Biennials require more steps. Either dedicate the bed to that same crop for two years, if the plants will survive the winter, or dig them up and store the roots for replanting the next spring. (This provides the chance to be selective in what you plant back out as your seedstock.) Growers in hot climates must ensure their overwintered crops get sufficient chilling hours (vernalization) to stimulate flowering.

Consider the rainfall and humidity in your region. Naked dry seeds (lettuce, chard, onions, carrots) are very susceptible to fungal diseases in humid climates. Protected dry seeds (peas, beans, corn) can do OK in some wet climates. Protected wet seeds grow in fruits (think tomatoes, squash, melons), and thrive in humid climates. Growing in a hoophouse or greenhouse can be a good method for crops that do better if drier than you get outdoors.

Candystick Dessert Delicata winter squash.
Photo Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
  • Don’t choose squash for your First Seed Crop – there are many varieties in the same species, and you will most likely be growing some to sell at market or to your CSA.
  • If you are growing more than one seed crop, make your second a salad green. Grow it alongside your market crop and harvest the leaves. Then let it go to seed.
  • If you want a third seed crop, choose a cut flower you know will go to seed before the end of the season. Maybe calendula, amaranth, nigella or poppies.
  • Growing one biennial (out of 3 seed crops) will teach you at a faster rate than leaving that challenge until next year. If you can overwinter kale or collards, those are fine biennials to choose.
  • Dan recommends writing a First Seed Pledge to remind yourself that you are not trying to get everything right this year. Your goals are to grow the seed crop, harvest and roughly clean the seeds, dry and store them and plant the next year.

The Main Challenges in Growing Seed Crops

  • The extra time seed crops need in the ground may complicate your plans.
  • Having various patches of maturing seed crops around your farm can be aggravating.
  • Bulky seed crops may trap moisture and grow fungi.
  • Self-sown crop seeds may become next year’s weeds.
  • Some seed work adds to the peak workload of the growing season: burnout!

Seed Crop Management Tips

  • Trellis or tie up tall seed crops, to prevent toppling and sprawl. Use stakes and twine to pen the tall stems. Or Hortonova flower netting set horizontally.
  • Plant seed crops at the ends of field blocks, not in the middle. Or plan some dedicated seed crop beds.
  • Dig up annoying seed crops and replant them elsewhere. At this stage, crops transplant easily.
  • Sow your seed crops alongside other long-season crops such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, squashes, melons, cucumbers, cut flowers, woody herbs, leeks, onions, celery, parsnips.

    Celery transplanted into our hoophouse in late October. We like Ventura.
    Photo credit Kathryn Simmons

How to Reduce the Chance of the Crop Becoming a Weed

  • Be careful what you grow after a seed crop – avoid close-spaced direct sown crops.
  • Leave shattered seeds on the soil surface for 6-8 weeks to be eaten, or to germinate where you can hoe them off.
  • Alternatively irrigate and tarp the bed to germinate and smother unwanted seeds.

How to Stay Balanced with Extra Seed Work

  • Start small, as already recommended.
  • Only do timely tasks in peak season. Bag and store dry seed heads, well labelled.
  • From the beginning of the season, make sure the crew knows your seed crop plans and that your farm maps show where they will be growing.
  • Create reminders, such as flagging tape in the field, and entries on your calendar schedule.
  • If possible, get someone else to also keep an eye on these crops and alert you to problems.
  • Scale up slowly and intentionally, focusing on past successes.
  • If necessary, choose other farm tasks to phase out in the busiest period to keep growing seeds.

Your First Seed Harvest

  • Learn what ready-to-harvest looks like and check regularly. Extract a few seeds and see if they resemble the seeds you sowed.
  • Use simple techniques and standard kitchen tools to get your seed clean enough to replant.
  • Test the germination at the appropriate temperature for that crop.
  • Next growing season, plant a small trial, say 10% of your seeds, and 90% from your usual seed source. Label the plants clearly and make a map. If your seed fails, it won’t be a total loss. 10% is enough to see any consistent difference (improvement!).
  • Evaluate how your seed performs compared to that from your regular supplier. Growth, appearance, days to maturity, disease-resistance, flavor, miscellaneous wow factors.
  • If your seed doesn’t do great, consider possible reasons and adjust next year’s plan.
  • If your seed does well, grow more next year! Say 30-50% of your total planting. The third year, after two successes, go up to 50-70%. In year 4, if you like, grow 100% of that crop from your own seed.
  • As your successes build, learn about isolation distances and add in more seed crops.
Dan Brisebois, the author of The Seed Farmer

Seed Crops that are a Good Fit for Your Farm.

Part 2 describes many possible seed crops, to help you plan your next steps. In this section are lots of useful color photos of steps in seed processing, including collecting and fermenting tomato seeds. Fermentation removes the jelly goop around the seeds, improves germination and controls some seed-borne diseases.

To get seed from fruiting vegetables, just grow the crop as usual, and harvest when the fruit is ripe. If growing seed for your own use, it won’t matter if your tomatoes get a bit crossed up. They are selfers and only 0-5% crossing happens if you grow different varieties very close. 200ft spacing is enough to prevent cross pollination in tomatoes.

Sweet peppers and hot peppers can cross if planted within 200-250ft of each other. This doesn’t affect the eating quality of the fruits, but the seeds contain the crossed genetic material. Next year you could have a row of “sweet peppers” concealing a wolf in sheep’s clothing – a plant with spicy fruit. Dan recommends acting as if all peppers can cross with each other.

For crops we eat immature: cucumbers, zucchini, okra, snap peas, it is necessary to ripen the fruits fully. Giant bloated yellow cucumbers, streaky gold eggplant. Cucumbers take an extra 6 weeks to mature seed. All varieties of cucumber happily cross if closer than 1000ft. Eggplant fruits take an extra month or so beyond eating-ripe to reach seed maturity. Eggplants need 500ft isolation distance.

Okra is easy, once the pods have dried down, about 6 weeks after setting. Break the pods and push out the seeds.

Carolina Crowder Southern Peas as a seed crop in our hoophouse.
Photo Wren Vile

Beans and peas are selfers and are easy to grow to seed. But they may not be worthwhile seed crops, especially if you are also picking fresh beans or peas from the same plants for market, as this significantly reduces the yield. You need a lot of mature pods to supply enough seed, and beans take an extra 8 weeks to dry down after the edible stage (5-6 weeks for peas).

Squash is a tricky seed crop. It is a vigorous crosser, so your next generation can get very messed up, turning out stringy poor-tasting squash. Study the details of the 4 species and grow one variety of each species. Varieties of the same species need to be grown 1000-1500ft apart to avoid crossing.

Corn is a wind-pollinated crosser, and many rural landscapes include a lot of corn of many types, much of it GMO. You will need at least 1500ft isolation distance. (Popcorn alone does not accept pollen from other types of corn.) The ears take an extra 4-6 weeks to mature.

Cut Flower Seed Crops

Assume that all flowers are cross-pollinators and grow different varieties of the same species 300-500ft apart, or 1,200ft to be certain. Some flowers don’t cross much and can be closer together.

Leafy Greens

Lettuce is a good beginner leafy green. Lettuces barely cross, and nearly all are OPs. You can harvest leaves without interfering with seed production. From the start of bolting, seed development takes 2-3 months.

Brassica greens come in 3 main species: Brassica rapa, Brassica juncea and Eruca sativa (arugula). Separate the varieties within each species by 1000ft. Brassicas are all crossers, and if you grow varieties of the same species within 300ft of each other while flowering, you will get up to 50% crossing. This is fine for fun, but not for reliable marketing. As with other dry seed crops, screening and winnowing are needed to produce clean seed.

Spinach is not a good first seed crop, because it flowers at specific daylengths (13-15 hours), prefers cooler weather for pollination and is picky about moisture levels for seed production. If your weather is already hot by the time day-length reaches 13 hours, don’t grow spinach seed in spring – try over-wintering instead. Spinach is a wind-pollinated crosser, so keep varieties 1000ft apart. Spinach plants come in two types: pollen-producing and seed-producing. Both types are needed to grow seeds. Once you have a good seed set, you can remove the pollen-producing plants, giving the others more space. [How refreshing to have botanical descriptions rather than anthropomorphic genders!] Once the seed-bearing plants are browning or starting to drop seed, bring them into a dry area and lay them on a tarp to fully mature for a couple of weeks.

Winnowing collard seed with a box fan.
Photo Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Collards and kale are biennial, so you can harvest their greens the first year and overwinter them to produce seeds the second year. They are easy first seed crops in climates where the plants survive outdoors through the winter. They need 10-12 weeks below 50F (10C) to start flowering. There are two species of kale: Brassica napus and Brassica oleracea. Collards are all B. oleracea. Isolate flowering varieties in the same species by 1000ft.

Root Crops and Similar

First develop an overwintering strategy. With root crops you can select the best from all you grow and sell the rest! Radishes are the easiest to start with. All radishes are crossers. Spring radishes can be replanted immediately after harvest and selection. Winter radishes are biennial and need 12 weeks below 40F (4C) to induce flowering. Easiest is to refrigerate them over the winter, then select the best for planting out.

Turnips and rutabagas are two distinct species. Turnips are Brassica rapa; rutabagas (and some kales) are B. napus. Canola may be either species. Isolate during flowering by 1,000ft from others in the same species. For these root crops, this takes 2-3 months in their second spring.

Onions for seed need to be grown in a hoophouse in wet climates. Bulb onions are crossers, so grow them 1,000ft from other Allium cepa. In the first year, growing onions for seed is the same as growing for bulbs. Store the bulbs overwinter at 32-40F (0-4C) for 8-10 weeks before replanting them. After a few weeks of growing leaves, they send up flower stalks. Stake the tall stems to prevent breakage. Once you can see black seeds in the dried flowerheads, cut the heads and spread them on a tarp. Mature for another 7-10 days before extracting the seeds.

Swiss chard crosses with beets, and financially, beet seeds have a bigger market than chard seeds. If you are in a beet-growing area (including sugar beet or forage beet), don’t try this as a seed crop. You need 2-3 miles isolation distance.

Carrots are only worthwhile if you don’t have Queen Anne’s Lace, a wild carrot that cross-pollinates tame ones. Carrots suffer from inbreeding depression sooner than many crops, so you need to have lots of seeding plants to maintain genetic diversity. Seed takes 3-4 months to develop and mature in the second year.

Improving Efficiency and Effectiveness

Part 3 covers improvements you can make to your seed work, after your first year, providing more confidence in the seeds you grow, enabling you to transition to selling seeds.

Set up a workplace (“Seed HQ”) that is well-lit, dry, spacious and well-ventilated. Design a seed-lot tracking system with an alpha-numerical code including the year and the source. Use the code at every step of production for each crop: growing, harvesting, drying, cleaning, storage. Painters’ tape makes a good secondary labeling system. Use markers that don’t fade in the sun! For storage, have a label inside the jar or bucket, and one on the outside.

Roma tomato seed ferment on day 3, ready for washing.
Photo Pam Dawling

For wet-seeded crops, cut the fruit open, scoop out the seeds and wash them repeatedly with water, pouring off the floating lighter stuff once the seed settles to the bottom. Usually good seed sinks and non-viable seed floats (but not for squash).

Tomato seed extraction after the third pour.
Photo Pam Dawling

For harvesting dry seeds, Tourne-Sol workers use Zenport harvest sickles and pieces of landscape fabric (no intermediary bins). It’s usually most time-efficient to harvest the whole plant, rather than make multiple harvests from the same plants. Cutting the plants above the roots leaves the dirt in the field. Keep all the plants oriented in the same direction during harvest, to save time later. Most seeds will continue ripening while drying.

For dry-seeded crops, keep them dry! Wear a dust mask to avoid clogging your lungs. For small amounts, the pods can be opened by hand. Some plants can be knocked with a stick to release seeds. Others need to be stomped on (with clean boots). Gather the compost material off the top and pour or scoop the seedy material into a bin for threshing and winnowing (or screening).

Use the Pareto Principle: for many outcomes, roughly 80% of results come from 20% of effort. Don’t try to save every last seed. It becomes much less efficient to persist. To winnow, set up a tarp, a row of three rectangular bins and a box fan at a convenient height. Pour the seed slowly in front of the fan and it will fall according to density. The bins further from the fan can be winnowed again to get cleaner seed.

For screening, gather sieves, strainers and homemade screens. Use one to screen out the stuff bigger than the seeds, then one to screen out the material smaller than the seeds and retain the seeds. If you choose to grow lots of seeds for sale, there are specialized tools and equipment you can consider buying.

Freezing seeds, once thoroughly dry, kills insect eggs. After a week, take the container from the freezer and leave it warming to ambient temperature. Only then, open it and remove a sample for a germination test. There are good details in the book.

Becoming a Seed Steward

Cherish the seed crops you work with, to pass on to other growers. You can adapt crops to your bioregion. You can steer a variety towards more desirable traits – smooth shape, large size or bigger total yield, better color, earlier harvest, more disease resistance. Grow enough plants to maintain genetic diversity. If a bad thing happens, select the plants that do best after the adversity.

Start by paying attention to which transplants you choose and which you discard, or which seedlings you hoe out and which you leave to grow. Pull up plants that are too far from your desired traits. Each time you visit the crop, flag the plants that impress you most. If it is a fruiting crop, write something on the fruit to discourage yourself and others from harvesting it for market or dinner.

Improve Your Crop Planning

If you grow multiple seed crops, you will need careful planning of locations and timing for best success. Dan is a spreadsheet wizard (https://danbrisebois.com/category/farmer-spreadsheet-academy) The book has instructions and spreadsheets for each planning step.

  1. Start with the seed sales you hope to make (or the seed buying expense you hope to avoid). For each seed crop, add together the amount for farm use, the amount you can sell in packets and the amount you have a bulk seed contract for. Estimate the monetary value to get an idea of what you will earn if everything goes according to plan. Only grow seed crops that can provide your needed revenue per area! If your calculations show that a particular seed crop won’t be financially worthwhile, try negotiating a higher contract price, increasing the yield, or harvesting some of your seed crop for market without sacrificing seed yield. (Picking leaves from greens, for example.)
  2. Work backwards from the harvest you need to how many plants you’ll need to grow. Be sure the amount you are growing is enough to avoid in-breeding depression. Be sure you include a safety factor of around 30% in case something goes wrong. Many seeds can be kept for more than one year if stored in a freezer once dry. Growing too much can cause overwork with seeds that are slow to clean.
  3. Decide what crop spacing to use, and calculate total space needed.
  4. Decide where to grow them. Consider the layout of your growing spaces and the isolation you can achieve. Crossers need to be at least 1,000ft apart; selfers 300ft. Make sure you aren’t planning 2 crops from the same species closer than the isolation distance, including not just seed crops, but any market crop that reaches flowering. Crop rotation needs to be considered too. If most of your crops are for market, with just a few seed crops, integrate your seed crops into your market crop plan. The seed crops will likely be in the ground longer than the market crops, so cluster them to allow for optimal cover cropping following the market crops. If you are growing many seed crops, create a rotation around those.
  5. Decide when to plant: allow enough time for the crop to mature its seeds – study the book. Work back from the harvest date to the transplant date (if transplanted), then the sowing date. Be sure you have the capacity to do all of each week’s tasks.
  6. For sowing, add a 30% seeding safety factor and a 30% field plan safety factor. Transplanted crops additionally need a pot-up safety factor (10%). Round up to a whole number of trays. To calculate your seed order, add another 30% seed order safety factor to make sure you have enough seed on hand, even if some get sown a bit thickly.

The last chapter covers selling seeds in bulk or packets. The appendix holds a glossary, more resources, and a seed reference chart.

In learning to grow seeds, you will get better at observing plants, determining what features could be improved and extracting a clean seed crop.

 

Video The Seed Farmer Book Introduction

Refreshed Resources on my Website, and more on sweet potatoes

Now my new book, Sustainable Market Farming, 2nd Edition, is out, I am spring cleaning all the website pages and resources I hadn’t paid so much attention to recently.

I have updated my slideshows on SlideShare.net and I’ve searched out every one of my slideshows in a post on this site, and installed the most recent version.

I’ve updated my Events Page and my Videos and Podcasts page (there were a lot of broken links to fix there!).

At some point during the pandemic, I made a linked list of all my blog posts on Mother Earth News and posted it on my Events page (no one was going anywhere for a while). Now I’ve moved that list here, and checked the links.

Articles I wrote for Mother Earth News 2015-2020

Updated June 2025

Note that some of these articles are quite old and I might have updated them on this website, so before taking action, double check using the search box on my blog page.

How to Grow Winter Hoop House Crops

How to Make a Winter Salad Mix

Insectaries: Grow Flowers to Attract Beneficial Insects

Starting Seeds in Hot Weather

Hoophouse Bed Prep for Fall Plantings

Why Do Potatoes Sprout and How Can You Prevent Sprouting?

Direct Sowing vs Transplanting Pros and Cons

How to Delay Vegetable Crops from Bolting

Managing Nematodes in the Hoophouse

Pre-sprouting and Cutting Seed Potatoes

Grow Your Own Sweet Potato Slips

Screen Compost Now to Make Your Own Seed Compost for Spring

Step-by-Step Garden Hose Hole Repair

Why, When and How to Hill Potatoes

Saving Frost Tolerant Vegetables

How to Prevent Sweet Potatoes Sprouting in Storage

Varieties and Advice for Growing Early Spring Lettuce

Heat-Tolerant Eggplant Varieties

13 Steps to Planning your Vegetable Garden

Using Open Flats (Seed Trays) to Grow Sturdy Seedlings Easily

Hoop-House Intercropping in Spring

Intercropping Vegetables in Late Spring and Early Summer, aka ‘Relay Planting’

Planting Leeks

Intercropping: Companion Planting that Really Works

Growing Sweet Potatoes

Saving Sweet Potato Roots for Growing Your Own Slips

There are more, but that’s plenty to be going on with.

Sweet Potato Slip Propagation

One person asked on my New Society video for more info on sweet potato propagation. I haven’t got any videos, so I’m offering photos. You can read the text in my book. First here are 4 photos of the single node cutting method, followed by several of the slips-in-flats method we use at Twin Oaks.

Single-node sweet potato slip showing roots three days after striking the cutting.
Photo Anthony Boutard.
Sweet potato single node cuttings at 3 days. the short cuttings are set at an angle in the cells, and then pruned. You can clearly see the new shoots emerging.
Photo Anthony Boutard
Single-node sweet potato slip at 16 days. So many lovely roots!
Photo Anthony Boutard
Sweet potato single node plants at 18 days.
Photo Anthony Boutard

Now for the Slips-in-Flats method:

A sweet potato sprouting slips. We “plant” our mother roots in flats of compost in our germination chamber and let them grow sprouts about 6″ tall.
Photo Pam Dawling
Sweet potato slips growing in our germination chamber. We cut the slips daily when they are tall enough. Photo Kathryn Simmons.
Cut sweet potato slips in water. we keep them in water for up to a week. Photo Kathryn Simmons.
Once a week we plant the rooted slips in flats, about 2.5″ apart.
Credit: Kathryn Simmons.
We let the slips root into the compost in the flats and grow sturdy shoots before we transplant outside. Photo Pam Dawling
Freshly planted sweet potato slips on biodegradable plastic mulch. Photo Pam Dawling
Sweet potatoes several weeks after transplanting outdoors. Photo Brittany Lewis

Organic Vegetable Gardening Slide Show

I’m starting to spring clean my collection of slideshows. I have some new ones and many refreshed ones. My current list is 26 titles. I may retire some older ones. Here’s one of my newest ones, simply called Organic Vegetable Gardening, which I made for the Goochland Spring Garden Festival just last weekend. You can watch it here, using the arrows along the bottom edge of the slides

 

I made So Many Vegetables, So Little Space, for the Fairfax Master Gardeners and delivered it virtually in February. Click the link to see that one.

Since then I have also presented at the Organic Growers School at Mars Hill, NC in March, with two workshops, Season Extension (a popular request), and Grow More, Stress Less, co-presented with Ira Wallace.

Most of my slideshows can be viewed on SlideShare.  You don’t hear me talking, but you can take things at your own pace, lingering over the bits important to you and skimming the sections you already know or don’t need. You can see the slides in a larger size than here in this post.

The Beginner’s Garden podcast

I recently interviewed with Journey with Jill of The Beginner’s Garden Podcast. Watch us here:

JILL SAYS:

“In this episode, we explore how backyard gardeners can apply market farming techniques to grow healthier, more productive gardens with Pam Dawling author of Sustainable Market Farming. From disease and pest control to crop rotation and weeding, our guest shares practical, sustainable strategies drawn from real-world farming experience. 

Topics we cover include: 

🌱 Easy-to-apply disease management practices 

🧹 Smart, chemical-free weed control (and a realistic weeding schedule) 

🐛 Organic pest prevention strategies, including trap crops and netting 

🔁 How to rotate crops in small spaces—and why it matters 

🧠 Common myths and misconceptions about organic gardening 

Plus, hear how Pam’s book can help you garden with more confidence and fewer headaches – https://www.sustainablemarketfarming….”

Stale seedbeds, triage farming, vertical farming

This week I have for you several sources of information related to small-scale sustainable farming.

Hoe the small weeds in this bed of young lettuce soon, and the closing canopy of the lettuce will shade out most weeds after that. Photo Bridget Aleshire

Triage Farming

Growing for Market has posted Triage Farming by Matt S. as a free article on their website

Matt tells of becoming farm manager on a new piece of land, with terrible drainage problems and lots of grass weeds.

“There are five spheres in which a farm can be challenged. Most farms deal with serious disadvantages in one or two of these. We were handicapped in four.” The five are location challenges, site challenges, infrastructure and equipment challenges, institutional challenges (dealing with the bureaucracies), human challenges. They didn’t have human challenges!

As a response to kicking around dried mud-balls full of grass bristles, Matt invented Triage Farming. Triage (from the French trier ‘separate out’) was a concept that came into wider use during WW1 as medics had to sort injured soldiers into three groups: those that would be OK without treatment really soon, those that were going to die whether they had treatment or not, and those who would get the most value from immediate treatment. In farming it means prioritizing using your limited resources to their maximum effect when it’s impossible to accomplish all you hoped to do.

This is not a sustainable way to farm (or live). It’s a way to preserve sanity and be most effective when things have got out-of-control. It doesn’t leave a feeling of satisfaction. But nor a feeling of despair. It can be ruthless, sloppy and minimalist.

Maybe you have never had such moments, but I have. If you have, then I recommend this article. Keep a copy handy, especially in the heat of the summer. You’ll likely not agree with every decision Matt made, but the article will help you raise your head and look around, rather than keep pushing on the task at the top of the schedule you made back in January.

Matt helps with deciding which crops to grow, and how much, if you know it’s likely to be a difficult year (new site, brand new crew, etc). He works through each of the five challenge spheres he identified and explains his response to that aspect: suitable crops for different location challenges, suitable equipment, approaches to weeding (timely, untimely, and “carnage weeding”), tools and equipment for different situations, dealing with various bureaucracies, and how to delegate to other workers.

Matt has an uplifting style, which also helps when the going gets tough.

———————————————

False and Stale Seedbeds

Future Farming Center Banner

I just read a very clear 25-page publication about using false seedbeds and stale seedbeds, including flaming. False and Stale Seedbeds: The most effective non-chemical weed management tools for cropping and pasture establishment. Dr Charles N Merfield, 2013. Lincoln, New Zealand: The BHU Future Farming Centre www.bhu.org.nz/future-farming-centre

Screenshot 2023-07-31 at 13-45-27 False-and-stale-seedbeds–the-most-effective-non-chemical-weed-management-tools-for-cropping-and-pasture-establishment-2015-ffc-merfield.pdf

“False and stale seedbeds are based on three rules:

  1. most weed seeds are dormant,
  2. tillage is the most effective means of germinating weed seeds, and
  3. most weeds only emerge from the top 5 cm / 2” of soil.
  • Both false and stale seedbeds work by the very simple process of germinating the weeds then killing them and then growing the crop.
  • False seedbeds use tillage/cultivation to kill the weeds.
  • Stale seedbeds use thermal weeders or herbicides to kill the weeds.”

Both false and stale seedbeds are made by preparing the bed 7-10 days before you plan to sow your crop, watering if the conditions are dry, then killing the carpet of emerged weeds, by very shallow tilling, hoeing or flaming. Getting the tillage correct is critical, including having a good weather-eye. Flaming will kill broad-leaved weeds, but only set grasses back by about a week. Alternatively, cover the prepared bed with a tarp to germinate and kill the weeds.

The 5-15% of weed seeds that are non-dormant are mostly in the top 5 cm/2” of the soil, and germinate very quickly. These can be very effective techniques, and this publication explains them well, and has good photos of crops, and machines such as the milling bedformer and the roller undercutter, and some fancy flamers and steam weeders, which might be equipment to aspire to, while working with spring tine weeders and shallow tillage. The explanations help with getting a better understanding of weeds seed germination, and so how to succeed with pre-plant tillage and post-crop-emergence cultivation. Timing is important, as is having the right tools for the job.

There’s also a good relevant article in Growing for Market:

Tools and strategies to reduce time spent weeding by Sam Hitchcock Tilton

Definitely read this if you are spending a lot of time weeding, or your crops are over-run by weeds. Work towards reducing your weed population each year, by preventing weeds from seeding. “Realize that one lamb’s-quarters or kochia or bindweed or galinsoga plant going to seed can be a much bigger problem next year than 10 or even 100 non-reproducing plants are now. So marshal your precious weeding resources smartly.”

Timely hoeing, while weeds are tiny and quick to die, can prevent the need for pulling weeds by hand, if you are working on a quite small scale. If your scale needs other tools, here you can learn about equipment to physically control weeds as part of your cropping system. If you are using a 4-wheel tractor, consider hillers, mini-ridgers, finger-weeders, Spyders, beet knives (L-blades), tine weeders, basket weeders.

A Thiessen walk-behind tractor cultivator, with Spyders up front, with the front of the Spyder angled towards the crop row (to pull soil away from the row), and torsion weeders at the back to weed in the crop row.

The article includes some equipment for 2-wheel walk-behind tractors, such as the Thiesson cultivator, Buddingh and Tilmor basket weeders, Even wheel hoes have weeding attachments.

Sam also describes stale seed-bedding, and advises rolling the prepared bed before tarping or watering, to provide the weed seeds good contact with the soil.

Sam’s article includes excellent photos, a tailored-for-beginners’ explanation of which tool does what and many links to other website and videos.

As Ben Hartman points out in The Lean Farm, hand-weeding is in a sign of failure to act sooner, that has led to a time-wasting scramble to correct the situation. read my review of The Lean Farm.

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Here’s an article from USDA on Killing the Crop Killers—Organically

As an alternative to bromide fumigation to kill pest nematodes, and other pests, try anaerobic soil disinfestation (ASD), an organic treatment that temporarily removes oxygen from the soil, is inexpensive and easy to apply. This method involves using a source of carbon, such as orchard grass, or mustard seed meal, tilled into the soil


Lean Times Hit the Vertical Farming Business.

Vertical farming is a code for a type of high tech hydroponics. See this article on the BBC website. Yes, hydroponics uses a large amount of energy to grow the plants. Yes, growing plants takes skill and attention. Yes, growing only a few crops is risky: people will only eat so much lettuce. Aerofarms has filed for bankruptcy, and several other “vertical farming operations” have hit financial troubles too.

Balance that with this post by Lee Rinehart from ATTRA:

Real Organic: Reflections on “The Deep Roots of Organic in Soil” by Paul Muller.

Soil is complex, with a universe of microorganisms, and cycles of carbon, nitrogen, hydrogen and many other elements. Farmers are part of the cycle. Organic farmers are seeking to make continuous improvement to the life in the soil, by observing patterns and lifeways, mimicking the native systems. We are not the center of the universe. Wendell Berry says “We don’t know what we are doing because we don’t know what we are undoing.”

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Plastic in the Organic Supply Chain Conference Report

From Modern Farmer

In early May, the Organic Center and the Organic Trade Association held the Organic Confluences conference about Reducing Plastic Across the Entire Organic Supply Chain. “While plastics serve many practical purposes on organic farms as well as for packaging and distribution, plastic production, use, and disposal cause massive amounts of pollution, which disproportionately affects low-income people and communities of color in the United States and around the world. At the conference, farmers, researchers, policymakers, wholesalers and retailers, nonprofit organizations, government agency staff and many others gathered to define the challenges in reducing plastic use, identify research needs, highlight success stories, and discuss what needs to be done to solve this growing problem.” Read a report about the conference on the eOrganic website here, with links to the conference program and slide presentations.

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Young spinach seedlings.
Photo Pam Dawling

Spinach Trial Underway to Inform Organic Seed Production

The Organic Seed Alliance is evaluating 272 spinach accessions from the USDA-ARS Germplasm Resources Information Network (GRIN) seed collection at their research farm in Washington State to assess timing of bolting and seed yield potential as part of a NIFA OREI funded project. This fall, they will share the trial results as well as their knowledge on spinach seed production and seed cleaning techniques through a webinar hosted on eOrganic, but meanwhile, read more about the project on their blog post here!

The seed production trial information is a part of an effort to aid in developing better varieties for organic farmers. “Research on the role of soil microbes on nutritional content, nitrogen use efficiency, and abiotic stress such as extreme temperatures is also underway by the project lead researcher Vijay Joshi at Texas A&M, and Ainong Shi and Gehendra Bhattarai at University of Arkansas. Together with the results of the seed production trials this project will help inform organic spinach breeders and farmers, and anyone working with seed from the USDA-ARS Germplasm Resources Information Network (GRIN) seed bank.” Results will be posted on the eOrganic project website.

eOrganic logo

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Tomato Breeding Project Fueled By Over 1,000 Backyard Gardeners

 

Some of the Dwarf Tomato Project’s diverse harvest. Courtesy of Craig LeHoullier

This 12-minute segment from Science Friday is an interview with Craig LeHouiller, who is a gardener/garden writer / tomato breeder in North Carolina. He is the author of Epic Tomatoes. In this segment he talks about the open source Dwarf Tomato Project. He and collaborator Patrina Nuske-Small aimed to preserve the flavor and beauty of heirloom tomatoes, without taking up too much space. They started crossbreeding heirloom tomatoes with smaller dwarf tomato plants. They signed up over 1000 volunteers across the world. They now have over 150 varieties of dwarf tomatoes, everything from cherries to beefsteaks, in every color. You can buy seeds from Victory Seeds, who have dedicated themselves to offering every dwarf variety produced.