Success with Growing Carrots!

Danvers Half-Long carrot.
Photo Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

It’s carrot planting time for many of us from spring to late summer, and many growers are searching my site for information. Here are quick links to all of my many carrot posts over the years. Inevitably there is some overlap.

After these links there are seasonal details on planting carrots.

  • Carrot Seed Viability: you may be wondering if you can still use the seeds leftover from last year. Carrot seeds are generally good for 3 or 4 years if you have stored them carefully. Click the link above to read Factors influencing seed viability and Seed germination testing
  • See my slideshow on Succession Planting. We sow carrots from mid-February to August. Here’s Video of me presenting Succession Planting for Continuous Vegetable Harvests ten years ago at New Country Organics (I’ve updated the presentation since then);
  • Sowing carrots: Surprisingly to me, I have not written much about sowing carrots in spring. From Root Crops in February: Carrots do very poorly with competition from weeds or too many other carrots. You can make use of the Stale Seedbed Technique, preparing the bed ahead of time, and flaming or hoeing one or more flushes of weeds as they germinate.
A young carrot bed in April, ready to hoe and thin.
Photo Pam Dawling

Carrots are small seeds, needing a fine tilth (small soil particle size and good texture – not likely to crust or blow away).  Good information on crop spacing for maximum yields, or biggest vegetables is in an out-of-print book, The Complete Know and Grow Vegetables by JKA Bleasdale, PJ Salter, and others. Buy it used.

For maximum total yield of carrots, they recommend 1.5” x 6” (4 x 15cm). You get medium-sized carrots. For early carrots go with 4 x 6” (10 x 15cm) to minimize competition and get rapid growth. If you want to have rows more than 6” (15cm) apart, calculate the area of these optimum spacings, then divide by your chosen row space. For example, if your rows are 12” (30cm) apart, the carrots can be as close as 0.75” (2cm) if total yield is more important than individual size, or 2” (5cm) for fast early carrots. We do five rows in a 4’ (1.2m) bed, so the rows are about 10” (25cm) apart, with the outer rows 4” (10cm) from the bed edge.

From Root Crops in March:

Spring Carrot Start-up Plan

  • One of many wheelbarrows full of compost we spread every year.
    Photo Wren Vile

    We aim to spread compost 4-6 weeks before planting, rototill 2-4 weeks before planting, and prep the bed a week or two before. This is more time than we allow later in the year, but in early spring it’s good to seize the opportunities that arise and not take the weather for granted.

  • This means in January we compost and till beds for our first two beds of carrots, to be sown February 14 and February 28.
  • In the first half of February we till and spread compost for more carrots (planting dates March 9 to 15).
  • In the second half of February, we compost the third carrot bed and till the ones we already composted.
  • Once we get to March, day length has improved and temperatures are starting to climb. There is a noticeable increase in the rate of germination and growth (unlike our February sowings, which are rooted in faith and optimism!).
  • In early March we till the third carrot bed.
  • All being well with the weather, we sow carrots #3 in mid-March
  • In late March, we sow carrots #4
Carrot beds in June. Bridget Aleshire

There’s also a full chapter on carrots with all my information in my book Sustainable Market Farming, 2nd edition. It includes info on varieties, and which types are better for which soils, pests and diseases, crop rotations, cover crops before and after carrots, and more.

Preparing for Carrot Sowing

    • Planning for a continuous supply; see my slideshow on Succession Planting. Carrots have a much longer window for harvesting than most carefully planned successions, so you can be a lot looser in your planting dates. Mainly, just grow enough! After the spring start-up plan, we sow carrots once a month in April and May. If we need to, we sow once a month in June and July, although summer-grown carrots do not taste as sweet as those grown in cooler weather. We finish with a big sowing at the end of July or early August, 10–12 weeks before the usual first frost, to be harvested in November and stored for winter eating.
    • Decide how many to plant. Yield: 100 lb/100′ (150 kg/100 m), 30,000 lb/acre (34,000 kg/ha)
    • Calculate the amount of seed required; Carrot seeds are 175,000–600,000 (avg. 288,000)/lb, 18,000 seeds/oz, 625 seeds/g. 3,000 seeds (0.2 oz, 6 g)/100′ (30 m), 1 seed/cm. 625 cm/g, 600’/oz, 9,600’/lb, 2.5 lb/acre (at 30 seeds/ft in rows 24″ (60cm) apart). 720,000 seeds/acre.

Success with Planting Carrots

    • Before you plant, understand soil temperature requirements: Use a soil thermometer! Flag its location so you don’t lose track of it! Measure at 4″ (10 cm) deep at 9am. Carrot emergence takes3 days at 50°F (10°C), 10.1 days at 59°F (15°C), 6.9 days at 68°F (20°C), 6.2days at 77°F (25°C), 6 days at 86°F (30°C)and 8.6 days at 95°F (35°C).

      Soil thermometer. Worth its weight in gold.
    • Old books warn against using manure before sowing carrots as it will make them fork. This refers to uncomposted manure, not compost. Compost will increase yields and even reduce the culls with some varieties (research by Dan Brainard and Corey Noyes, at Michigan State University). Compost not only increases the organic matter in the soil but also suppresses some diseases and nematodes (which can cause forked carrots)
    • Seed spacing and depth: for carrots, aim to sow 30 seeds/ft (1/cm), only 0.25″–0.5″ (0.6–1.2 cm) deep. Close the furrows and tamp down the rows with the back of a hoe or rake. The goal is to get good contact between the seed and the soil. Keep the soil surface damp until the seedlings start to emerge.
    • We sow a few Indicator Beets at the beginning of the bed. Beets germinate
      We sow “indicator beets” with our carrots so that we know when to flame-weed them
      Photo Kathryn Simmons

      one day sooner than carrots at almost any temperature. When we see the red loops of the beet stems emerging, we know it’s the day to flame weed the carrots. (From Workhorse Crops for March)

    • Carrots do very poorly with competition, so try to start early carrots in a bed that had only light weeds the year before. Later sowings can make use of the stale seedbed technique, where the bed is prepared ahead of time and one or more flushes of weeds are germinated and flamed or hoed off.

      Carrot row thinned to 1 inch. Kathryn Simmons

Growing Great Carrots: Thinning and Weeding

    • Remember to thin carrots as soon as you can see them well enough to do so. We usually hoe between the rows first, then crawl along thinning and weeding. It does take time! But you won’t get good carrots without thinning, unless you either have a precision-seeder that drops one seed per inch, or pelleted seed which you can sow at one per inch.
    • Precision seeders like the Jang are expensive, but worthwhile if you need to use it every week. Pelleted seed costs more than raw seed, and its big advantage is traded off for two other disadvantages: The soil has to be kept well-watered until germination or else the clay coating will imprison the seed forever, and the seed does not store for long – don’t keep any over for next year.
    • It pays to sow in parallel rows an even distance apart. This makes for fast and effective hoeing with fewer mistakes.

      Danvers 126 carrots.
      Credit Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Harvesting carrots

Carrot trimming and sorting. Wren Vile

Sweet Corn Almanac – it’s planting time!

Young sweet corn plants in July. And solar panels.
Photo Bridget Aleshire

It’s sweet corn planting time for many of us again and many growers are searching my site for information. Here are quick links to my many sweet corn posts over the years. Inevitably there is some overlap. There’s also a full chapter on sweet corn with all this information in my book Sustainable Market Farming, 2nd edition.

After these links there are seasonal details on planting sweet corn.

  • Success with Planting Sweet Corn: Before you plant, understand the 6 sweet corn genotypes and avoid producing starchy unpleasant-flavored corn caused by planting warring types; soil temperature requirements; amount of seed required; seed spacing and depth; an overview of our corn-growing methods; sweet corn crop requirements; dealing with weeds; transplanting sweet corn; my slideshow on Succession Planting.
  • <iframe src=”https://www.slideshare.net/slideshow/embed_code/key/9pRbveAmBcqtaz” width=”510″ height=”420″frameborder=”0″ marginwidth=”0″ marginheight=”0″ scrolling=”no”style=”border: var(–border-1) solid #CCC; border-width:1px; margin-bottom:5px; max-width:100%;”allowfullscreen></iframe><div style=”margin-bottom:5px”><strong><a href=”https://www.slideshare.net/slideshow/succession-planting-for-continuous-vegetable-harvests-2024-60-mins-pdf/280479965″ title=”succession-planting-for-continuous-vegetable-harvests-2024-60-mins-pdf” target=”_blank”>succession-planting-for-continuous-vegetable-harvests-2024-60-mins-pdf</a></strong>from <strong><a href=”https://www.slideshare.net/SustainableMarketFarming” target=”_blank”>Pam Dawling</a></strong></div>
  • Preparing for Sweet Corn: Crop rotations; planning for succession plantings for a continuous supply; planning preceding cover crops for next year; problems with living mulch; under-sowing for a follow-on cover crop; caring for growing sweet corn; staying on top of weeds; sweet corn growth stages.
Sweet corn growth stages. University of Illinois Extension
  • Growing Great Sweet Corn: More on caring for sweet corn as it grows, including resources; under-sowing sweet corn; succession planting, including a link to my slideshow on this topic; last worthwhile sowing date; fast-maturing sweet corn varieties; sweet corn season extension including transplanting; pests and diseases of sweet corn; harvesting sweet corn.
  • Sweet Corn, Potatoes and Okra: includes my slideshow on succession planting, sowing with an EarthWay seeder; using a wheel hoe between corn rows; hoeing sweet corn; our sowing and harvest start dates; dealing with raccoons, skunks and curious cats.
Our first sweet corn of the season. Bodacious
Photo Pam Dawling
Mature Sweet corn ear.

Skunks

When harvesting our fifth planting of sweet corn (Bodacious, Kandy Korn, Sparkler and Silver Queen), I beefed up our raccoon traps following the suggestions from Joanna Reuter of Chert Hollow Farm, staking the traps down and smearing peanut butter high on the stake in the back of the cage. Well, the first morning I caught a small, very white skunk! I let it out carefully. The next morning I caught the same skunk again. And the third morning, again. The little animal never seemed ferocious or scared, more curious about how to get out. I was more scared than it was, I think! I bet you’re wondering how I released it. Well, I gently laid a large plastic bag over the top and nearside of the trap (just in case. . . ) and gingerly unlatched the door. Then  I used a strong stick to lever up the door a bit, as it is a tight fit. Then I bravely put my foot on top of the trap and pulled the door up by hand. Then I dropped the stick and ran! Later the skunk ambled out. By the third morning I think it was happy with the arrangement. A small can of cat food is a big meal for a small skunk, after all. But I was tired of the game, so I took the traps away. Raccoons don’t seem to like Silver Queen as much as Kandy Korn anyway, maybe because the husks are tighter and harder to rip off. Actually I like Kandy Korn better than Silver Queen too! Meanwhile we are working on setting up a temporary electric fence around the last corn patch, with our new solar charger.

A Way to Garden

For a valuable second opinion, see Margaret Roach (who grows in Massachusetts) in A Way to Garden:

Seasonal tips on planting sweet corn

  • Ensure you have compatible sweet corn varieties, and that none of your seed is older than one year.
  • Plan where your corn will go, and calculate how much seed you need.
  • Use a soil thermometer! Flag its location so you don’t lose track of it! Sweet corn needs warm soil. Catalogs usually indicate the soil temperature (measured at 4″ (10 cm) deep at 9am) recommended for each variety. 50°F (10°C) is the absolute minimum, and applies to treated seed and OP or (su) varieties only. 60°F (15.5°C) is better for most, and 65°F (18°C) or higher is required by some varieties.
  • Corn has no tolerance of frost, but escape from a late spring frost is possible if the seedlings are less than two weeks old and not yet very tall, as the growing point may still be underground. Thus, in a spring that promises to be warm and dry, it is possible to risk an early planting as much as 2-3 weeks before the last frost date. Having some transplant plugs for a back-up helps reduce the risk level.
  • Common phenology signs for the season being advanced enough to sow corn are that white oak leaves are the size of squirrels’ ears and that ragweed is germinating.
  • Sow shallowly 6” (15 cm) apart, in rows you’ll be able to walk between. 30”-36” (76-92 cm) works well. Close the furrows and tamp down the rows with the back of a hoe or rake, or do the “soft shoe shuffle” with your feet. The goal is to get good contact between the seed and the soil.
  • Water as needed.
  • Emergence takes 22 days at 50°F (10°C), 12 days at 59°F (15°C), 7 days at 68°F (20°C), and 4 days at 77°F (25°C).
Our first sweet corn harvest of the year. We like to leave the husks in the field, but it does mean they need good washing before cooking. Pam Dawling

The Best Vegetable Cultivars to Grow in Our Area

VPM Community Garden Gathering

Virginia Home Grown’s Community Garden Gathering

Virginia Public Media (VPM )’s Virginia Home Grown, Dorey Park Farmers Market and Virginia State University partnered to host a day of education and fellowship for community garden enthusiasts. Everyone from beginners to established garden organizers learned from a variety of experts throughout the day. Sessions covered how to engage with your local communities, ways to manage volunteers, grant writing, ways to earn legal business designations for community gardens and more.

Partners in organizing the Community Gardening Gathering

I gave a presentation at this event, which was held on February 21, 2026, 8:30 am – 4:00 pm, at the delightful Dorey Park Recreation Center, 2999 Darbytown Road, Henrico, VA 23231

Virginia Home Grown

Virginia Home Grown (VHG) is one of VPM’s longest-running TV shows and is celebrating its 25th year. The show’s mission is to enrich growers and gardeners of all levels by connecting to new voices and fresh ideas, to highlight the unique richness of gardens and natural ecosystems throughout Virginia and serve as a resource for our community. The show introduces audiences to experts and plant enthusiasts from across Virginia by offering how-to demos and video visits to gardens, farms and growing sites. VHG believes gardening is for everyone and that we’re all growing and learning together.

Storytelling is at the heart of VPM’s work. They strive to produce relevant, high-quality, multi-platform content in television, radio, podcasts, and digital media that is rooted in Virginia, and reflective of the diverse communities we serve. VPM programming focuses on four key genres: News, History, Arts & Culture, and Science. As a PBS member station and NPR affiliate based in Virginia, VPM produces a mix of local and national content.

Peggy Singlemann in the control room at VPM in Richmond, where her show Virginia Home Grown is produced. Visit PBS.org/Show/Virginia-Home-Grown to watch a selection of full episodes for free. Photo by Fred + Elliott

The Community Garden Gathering

“The day was a celebration of community gardening. VPM’s response to a VHG viewer’s question asking where to learn how to start a community garden was not one of words, but one of action by organizing the Community Garden Gathering,” said Virginia Home Grown host Peggy Singlemann. After doing some research, the VHG team found that there were ample resources throughout the region, but there weren’t any events nearby that were focused on community gardens. Topics for the event were formed from a survey that was sent last year, asking people to rank which topics were most important to them.

Amy Rose Foll running a seed swap at the Community Garden Gathering. VPM Photo

Over 70 participants attended the event that featured several keynote speakers sharing their expertise on gardening, as well as breakout sessions where folks were able to gain additional insights.

Astonished happy winner of the raffle for my book Sustainable Market Farming 2nd Edition at the Community Garden Gathering. VPM photo

Peggy continued, “Although the gathering was filled with educational sessions, what brought everyone together was the networking and sharing. The day proved we are all one community working to meet the need for affordable fresh produce no matter the location of the garden.”

Keynote Speakers:

Pam speaking at the Community Garden Gathering. VPM photo

Pam Dawling, Sustainable Market Farming

The Best Vegetable Cultivars to Grow in Our Area.

“This presentation will help you choose vegetable crops that fit your goals, resources, conditions and priorities. It will provide tips on choosing varieties likely to bring you success, and practical ways to compare several cultivars. It includes my own list of favorite varieties, ones that do well in Central Virginia. There will be a handout including my list and lots of resources for more info.”

Stacey Evers, Hands on Harvests

Growing Food Security from the Ground Up

“As gardeners, we possess knowledge that can improve our communities exponentially, but we don’t always know how to act with that knowledge. Hear how one organization is creating new approaches to community gardens in Fairfax County and walk away with tools for cultivating your community garden vision.”

In addition there were ten breakout sessions.

And here you can see my slideshow

The Best Vegetable Cultivars to Grow in Our Area

That view is small. I’ll work on posting a bigger one. I’ve uploaded to SlideShare.

<iframe src=”https://www.slideshare.net/slideshow/embed_code/key/aPPuHTNgGgfzEE” width=”510″ height=”420″frameborder=”0″ marginwidth=”0″ marginheight=”0″ scrolling=”no”style=”border: var(–border-1) solid #CCC; border-width:1px; margin-bottom:5px; max-width:100%;”allowfullscreen></iframe><div style=”margin-bottom:5px”><strong><a href=”https://www.slideshare.net/slideshow/the-best-vegetable-cultivars-to-grow-in-our-area-2026-45-min-vpm-pdf/287068035″ title=”the-best-vegetable-cultivars-to-grow-in-our-area-2026-45-min-vpm-pdf” target=”_blank”>the-best-vegetable-cultivars-to-grow-in-our-area-2026-45-min-vpm-pdf</a></strong>from <strong><a href=”https://www.slideshare.net/SustainableMarketFarming” target=”_blank”>Pam Dawling</a></strong></div>

Or try this link

https://www.slideshare.net/slideshow/the-best-vegetable-cultivars-to-grow-in-our-area-2026-45-min-vpm-pdf/287068035

Also see my post about my July 2025 appearance on the VHG TV Program

 

Garlic Almanac – it’s planting time!

Popping garlic for replanting at Twin Oaks.
Photo Bell Oaks

It’s garlic planting time for many of us again and many growers are searching my site for information. Here are quick links to all of my many garlic posts over the years. I’ve added in ones from the past couple of years, since I wrote my post Garlic Almanac and Phenotypic Plasticity in May 2021. Those are Success with Storing Garlic, the timely Planting garlic and garlic scallions and my updated slideshow in the post My Garlic Slideshow.

After the links follows seasonal details on planting

Hot water treatment for seed garlic at WeeBee Farms. See my Alliums for November post

Much about garlic is to be found in my Alliums for the Month Series:

Garlic planting crew.
Photo Valerie Renwick

Other posts about garlic, starting with planting:

Margaret Roach’s site A Way to Garden

For a valuable second opinion, see Margaret Roach (who grows in Massachusetts) in A Way to Garden

A soil thermometer

When to Plant Garlic

Use a soil thermometer! Flag its location so you don’t lose track of it! Here in zone 7a, we plant in early November when the soil temperature at 4″ (10 cm) deep is 50°F (10°C) at 9 am. If the fall is unusually warm, we wait a week. Instructions from Texas A&M say less than 85°F (29°C) at 2″ (5 cm) deep. In New Hampshire, mid-October is the time. The guideline for areas with cold winters is 2-3 weeks after the first frost but before the ground freezes solid for the winter. In Michigan, planting time is 6 weeks prior to the ground freezing, giving enough time for root growth only, to avoid freezing the leaves. In California, garlic can be planted in January or February.

Both hardneck and softneck garlic do best when planted in the fall, though softneck garlic may also be planted in the very early spring if you have to (with reduced yields). If you miss the window for fall planting, ensure that your seed garlic gets 40 days at or below 40°F (4.5°C) in storage before spring planting, or the lack of vernalization will mean the bulbs will not differentiate (divide into separate cloves).

Grey Duck Garlic logo

Here I’ve combined information from Grey Duck Garlic with what I already knew.

  • Exposure to really hot weather in fall can reverse the vernalization process and result in smaller bulbs. Planting too early leads to poor growth and bulbing, and your seed cloves may disappear. If you plant when it is still too warm, the garlic has to sit in the ground until it gets cold enough to grow roots. During that time, it is susceptible to diseases, and pests including hungry voles. If planted too early, too much tender top growth can happen before winter, leading to its death when cold weather arrives.

Planting too late results in insufficient root growth to anchor and feed the plant for the winter. Plants may die during the winter or may struggle to restart growth once it warms up. Bulbs that do survive will be small.

  • In Zones 0–3, if there is no permafrost, plant garlic in September.
  • In Zones 3b–5, plant from late September to early October. Plant 2–3 weeks after the first frost but about 4–6 weeks before the ground freezes solid for the winter. This gives time for root development in the fall. Microclimates can make a big difference in marginal areas, and it is a lot colder at higher elevations.
  • In Zones 5–6b, plant in the second half of October. If your area does not normally get seasonally frozen ground, you could plant later.
  • In Zones 7–9, plant in early to mid-November; up till late November in Zone 9. Planting deeper helps keep the garlic at a steadier temperature (milder during the winter, cooler once spring heats up).
  • In Zones 9 and 10, look for soil to be less than 85°F (29°C) at 2″ (5 cm) deep – garlic can be planted in December or even as late as February if you have vernalized the planting stock. Garlic cloves need cold temperatures to start growing roots. (Vernalization for hardneck garlic = 6 weeks of cold temperature below 40–45°F/4–7°C; softneck is less demanding.) You can vernalize garlic in a refrigerator. Without sufficient vernalization, the bulbs will not differentiate (divide into separate cloves).
  • In Zones 11–13, I think plant in January or February after vernalization; check with local growers or your Extension Service as there’s very little info out there. See the excellent Grey Duck Farm’s Southern Garlic Grower’s Guide by Susan Fluegel.
  • If you miss the window for fall planting, ensure that your seed garlic gets 40 days at or below 40°F (4.5°C) in storage before spring planting (see info about vernalization above, under Zones 9 and 10)
Garlic shoots poking through the mulch in early January.
Photo Pam Dawling

Garlic Starts Growing When Conditions Are Right

Garlic roots will grow whenever the ground is not frozen, and the tops will grow whenever the temperature is above 40°F (4.5°C). In colder areas the goal is to get the garlic to grow roots before the big freeze-up arrives, but not to make top growth until after the worst of the weather.

In warmer areas, the goal is to get enough top growth in fall to get off to a roaring start in the spring, but not so much top growth that the leaves cannot endure the winter. If garlic gets frozen back to the ground in the winter, it can regrow and be fine. If it dies back twice in the winter, the yield will be lower than it might have been if you had been luckier with the weather. When properly planted, garlic can withstand winter lows of –30°F (–35°C).

Sources for Seed Garlic

Filaree Garlic Farm. WA

The Garlic Store, CO.

Keene Organic Garlic, Madison, WI

Irish Eyes. WA

Southern Exposure Seed Exchange. VA

Territorial Seed. OR

Softneck garlic getting ready for harvest, with okra next door. Photo Wren Vile

Refreshed Resources on my Website, and more on sweet potatoes

Now my new book, Sustainable Market Farming, 2nd Edition, is out, I am spring cleaning all the website pages and resources I hadn’t paid so much attention to recently.

I have updated my slideshows on SlideShare.net and I’ve searched out every one of my slideshows in a post on this site, and installed the most recent version.

I’ve updated my Events Page and my Videos and Podcasts page (there were a lot of broken links to fix there!).

At some point during the pandemic, I made a linked list of all my blog posts on Mother Earth News and posted it on my Events page (no one was going anywhere for a while). Now I’ve moved that list here, and checked the links.

Articles I wrote for Mother Earth News 2015-2020

Updated June 2025

Note that some of these articles are quite old and I might have updated them on this website, so before taking action, double check using the search box on my blog page.

How to Grow Winter Hoop House Crops

How to Make a Winter Salad Mix

Insectaries: Grow Flowers to Attract Beneficial Insects

Starting Seeds in Hot Weather

Hoophouse Bed Prep for Fall Plantings

Why Do Potatoes Sprout and How Can You Prevent Sprouting?

Direct Sowing vs Transplanting Pros and Cons

How to Delay Vegetable Crops from Bolting

Managing Nematodes in the Hoophouse

Pre-sprouting and Cutting Seed Potatoes

Grow Your Own Sweet Potato Slips

Screen Compost Now to Make Your Own Seed Compost for Spring

Step-by-Step Garden Hose Hole Repair

Why, When and How to Hill Potatoes

Saving Frost Tolerant Vegetables

How to Prevent Sweet Potatoes Sprouting in Storage

Varieties and Advice for Growing Early Spring Lettuce

Heat-Tolerant Eggplant Varieties

13 Steps to Planning your Vegetable Garden

Using Open Flats (Seed Trays) to Grow Sturdy Seedlings Easily

Hoop-House Intercropping in Spring

Intercropping Vegetables in Late Spring and Early Summer, aka ‘Relay Planting’

Planting Leeks

Intercropping: Companion Planting that Really Works

Growing Sweet Potatoes

Saving Sweet Potato Roots for Growing Your Own Slips

There are more, but that’s plenty to be going on with.

Sweet Potato Slip Propagation

One person asked on my New Society video for more info on sweet potato propagation. I haven’t got any videos, so I’m offering photos. You can read the text in my book. First here are 4 photos of the single node cutting method, followed by several of the slips-in-flats method we use at Twin Oaks.

Single-node sweet potato slip showing roots three days after striking the cutting.
Photo Anthony Boutard.
Sweet potato single node cuttings at 3 days. the short cuttings are set at an angle in the cells, and then pruned. You can clearly see the new shoots emerging.
Photo Anthony Boutard
Single-node sweet potato slip at 16 days. So many lovely roots!
Photo Anthony Boutard
Sweet potato single node plants at 18 days.
Photo Anthony Boutard

Now for the Slips-in-Flats method:

A sweet potato sprouting slips. We “plant” our mother roots in flats of compost in our germination chamber and let them grow sprouts about 6″ tall.
Photo Pam Dawling
Sweet potato slips growing in our germination chamber. We cut the slips daily when they are tall enough. Photo Kathryn Simmons.
Cut sweet potato slips in water. we keep them in water for up to a week. Photo Kathryn Simmons.
Once a week we plant the rooted slips in flats, about 2.5″ apart.
Credit: Kathryn Simmons.
We let the slips root into the compost in the flats and grow sturdy shoots before we transplant outside. Photo Pam Dawling
Freshly planted sweet potato slips on biodegradable plastic mulch. Photo Pam Dawling
Sweet potatoes several weeks after transplanting outdoors. Photo Brittany Lewis

Pests of the month in June: Mexican bean beetles and harlequin bugs

 

Our May bean sowing at the end of June.
Pam Dawling

Here’s the second in my new monthly series of posts, which will appear at the beginning of each month, until April 2026. This year the topic is insect pests and will feature the ones I’m most familiar with here in central Virginia. If you are in a different climate, you can use the Search Box on this site, where I have lots of mentions of insect pests when talking about the crops.

I’ll cover the worst pests we have each month, others that might also cause trouble, sustainable methods of managing those pests, and other good resources I’ve come across. All the crop chapters in the new second edition of Sustainable Market Farming also have sections about dealing ecologically with pests. If you also have good strategies, please leave a comment on this post.

Insect Pests in May covered cucumber beetles and squash bugs in detail, and Colorado potato beetles, eggplant flea beetles and leaf-footed bugs in passing.

Major Insect Pests in Vegetable Crops in June and some Management Strategies

Mexican bean beetles

Bad damage from Mexican bean beetles on these bean leaves. Beetles will also attack the pods after a while, making them inedible.
Photo Wren Vile

For the Mexican bean beetle, the most effective solution is a non-native, non-frost-hardy parasitic wasp Pediobius foveolatus. As soon as you see the fuzzy yellow larvae of the MBB, call the Phillip Alampi Beneficial Insect Rearing Laboratory, New Jersey (call 609-530-4192 to consult with lab staff and order – avoid the weekend). Buy “mummies,” mummified parasitized MBB larvae, shrunken brown versions of the beasties eating your beans. If all goes well, you’ll only need to buy one unit. Some growers plant a small trap crop bean planting first, get those properly endowed with parasites and then sow bigger rows. Others club together with neighbors who grow beans and share out the parasites when they arrive. This is because they don’t come cheap, although they do come very effective! After about a week, you should see more shriveled brown mummies and you can relax. If you miss the initial sighting of the larvae, you can buy adult wasps, which multiply faster. Another source of the bean beetle parasite is Bugs for Growers.

Lifecycle of the Mexican bean beetle.
Photo Purdue University

An alternative to the parasites is to promptly flame the old rows of beans and start harvesting new rows.

We used to sow 7 times, every two weeks, and pull up the plants after two weeks of harvesting, when the bean beetles had made lacework of the leaves and were eating the pods. Since buying the parasitic wasps, we only need to make five sowings of beans through the growing season. The intervals between sowings shorten as the season advances. Plus, the beans are much prettier. For details of this method see my slideshow on Succession Planting

Be sure that in your enthusiasm you don’t plan to sow beans too late in the year to get a worthwhile harvest. The formula to determine the last safe planting date for frost-tender crops such as green beans is to count back from the expected first frost date, adding:

  • the number of days from seeding to harvest,
  • the average length of the harvest period,
  • 14 days to allow for the slowing rate of growth in the fall, and
  • 14 days to allow for an early frost (unless you have rowcover – there is often a spell of warmer weather after the first frosts, and you can effectively push back your first frost date.)

With an October 14 frost date and a 50-day bean (and determination to put rowcover over the beans if we get a chilly spell), our last bean sowing goes in on August 3.

Asparagus beans are less damaged by Mexican bean beetles.
Peter Marks

If you’d rather avoid the problem of MBB, grow Southern peas (including asparagus beans), which are more resistant to MBB, or edamame (but watch for Japanese beetles).

Harlequin bugs

 Harlequin bugs. Photo University of Maryland Extension Service

Reduce harlequin bug numbers in the spring as much as you can, or the fall problem will be huge! Harlequin bugs become a major pest here in June. When the spring broccoli harvest is over, bush hog all brassicas and start No Visible Brassicas Month to disrupt the harlequin bug lifecycle.

From late June to late July in our climate is the best time for having no brassicas accessible to insect pests. Use hoops and well battened-down netting or rowcover over all brassicas you don’t remove from the garden.

Harlequin bug nymphs on spider flower (Cleome); note, white flecks in the leaf typical of feeding by true bugs
Credit Missouri Botanical Garden

Harlequin bugs can sometimes be caught in worthwhile numbers in a trap crop of cleome (spider flower). Bend the infested flower heads over a small bucket of soapy water and knock the bugs off into the bucket.

We start sowing our fall brassicas for outdoor planting around June 26 and repeat a week later for insurance (July 3). The last date for sowing these crops is about 3 months before the first fall frost date. In our case that means July 14–20.

Consider the Days to Maturity of the greens you plan to grow, and remember that with fall crops, a delay of two days in sowing dates can delay harvests by two or three weeks because plants grow slower as days get shorter and cooler. You can’t make up for lost time!

Most brassicas will germinate faster at 86°F (30°C) than at 77°F (25°C), provided the soil is damp. But don’t expect much from cabbage, broccoli, collards or cauliflower above 86°F (30°C).

There are several strategies:

  1. Direct sowing in the garden, in drills or in “stations” (groups of several seeds sown at the final crop spacing), is possible, if you have good irrigation. Large amounts of net or rowcover will be needed from day 1.
  2. Sow indoors in flats, and when hardening off outdoors, it can help to have them up on benches, above the height of flea beetles. And netted against the harlequin bugs.
  3. Sow outdoors in a nursery seedbed with hoops and Proteknet insect netting, as we do. Good airflow is vital—very thick rowcover or rowcover resting directly on the plants can make the seedlings more likely to die of fungal diseases in hot weather. Outdoor seedbeds and bare root transplants suit us best. The nursery bed is near our daily work area, so we’ll pass by and water it. Having the seedlings directly in the soil “drought-proofs” them to some extent; they can form deep roots and don’t dry out so fast.
Outdoor brassica seedling nursery bed. Photo Bridget Aleshire

We aim to transplant leafy brassicas at four true leaves (3-4 weeks after sowing). In hot weather transplant crops at a younger age than you would in spring – larger plants can wilt from high transpiration losses. This can be as little as 3 weeks after sowing. If we find ourselves transplanting older plants, we remove a couple of the older leaves to reduce the transpiration.

Cover transplants with hoops and netting or rowcover for several weeks, at which point the plants should be sturdy enough to withstand some bugs. The hoops will keep the netting up above the crops, preventing bugs from either feeding or laying eggs through the netting holes

Our fall brassica harvests are Sept 25 – late November for cabbage; Sept 10 – Oct 15 for our main broccoli harvest period, with smaller amounts picked either side of those dates. Kale and collards are harvested (by snapping off the bigger leaves) all winter in small amounts, and then in larger amounts as spring warms up, until the end of May, when they bolt.

Secondary Insect Pests in Vegetable Crops in June and some Management Strategies for those

Colorado Potato beetles

 

Colorado potato beetle on an eggplant leaf.
Photo Pam Dawling

Adult overwintered CPB emerge from the soil in spring and walk (they can’t fly at that point) to the nearest potatoes they can sense (how do they find them??). When you plan your garden, put your spring potatoes as far from the site of last year’s potatoes as you can. Give them a long, exhausting hike!

Monitor for Colorado potato beetles by walking diagonally or in a zig-zag through the patch once a week stopping at every fifth to tenth plant, counting the CPBs. Once you have counted about 5% of the plants (100 plants in our patch), average your findings to learn if you need to take action, or if you can simply wait another week.

Colorado Potato beetle late stage larva
Photo Pam Dawling

The CPB Action Level is if there are more than 50 adults/50 plants or more than 200 larvae/100 plants, (or more than 1.5 adults plus larvae per plant on average), or egg masses at more than 1 per 10 plants, or defoliation greater than 20%. The more accurate acceptable potato defoliation does depend how big the plants were to start with that week: 50-70% of top leaves on a 6″-8″ (15-20 cm) plant, 25% on 12″-16″ (30-40 cm), only 10% at full bloom, back up to 25% when full grown. Full bloom is the stage when the tubers are starting to form, therefore the most critical time for avoiding any setbacks.

If numbers exceed the Action Threshold, start daily handpicking or spray with Spinosad [or Neem]. We expect to need 1.5-2 hours and 9-10.5 galls for our 2200-2900 feet (670-884 m) of potatoes. Repeat if needed in 6-7 days. With Spinosad, which is a broad spectrum insecticide, it is important not to spray too much in any given year. When you monitor one week after your first spraying, take marker flags with you and flag the hotspots if the general state of infestation is not too bad. Then you could spot spray where larvae are seen, rather than respray the whole patch. Or you could check and handpick at those spots.

In mid-June we make a second planting of potatoes, as far from the first ones as we can manage. Because we mulch the second planting with hay, it does not get found by the CPB. In June the potatoes benefit from the thermal insulating and moisture-retaining effects of the mulch. In March we don’t mulch our potatoes because we want the soil to warm up some.

Miscellaneous summer vegetable pests

  • Thrips, aphids, maggots: Mow, do good crop cleanup.
  • Cucumber beetles: See May’s post. Cover cucurbits with ProtekNet and hoops immediately after sowing. Uncover once you start harvesting, to make life easier. You can then handpick the cucumber beetles or spray with Spinosad. Nasturtiums in cucurbit rows are said to repel They’ll look pretty even if they don’t work!

    Nasturtium in a row of cucumbers.
    Photo Bridget Aleshire
  • Squash vine borers are large caterpillars that chew into the main stems. They appear when the vines start to run. One strategy is to pinch the tips when vines are 1’–2′ (30–60 cm) long, causing multiple vines to grow, increasing the chance of some escaping damage. We are fortunate to not get much trouble with squash vine borers, but I know they can do major damage, living in the stems and eating their way upwards. To save the plant, at the first sign of trouble pick out the grub, then pile soil over the injury to help the plant recover. Injecting Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) into the stem is another solution. Another approach is to make a collar of aluminum foil for each stem. There are pheromone lures for this pest too.
  • Squash bugs can do a lot of direct damage to leaves, and they also vector yellow vine disease. Plants attacked by squash bugs look baked to a crisp, with curled bronzed leaves. Destroy the gold eggs spaced out on the underside of leaves, by tearing off the infested pieces of leaf and crushing them. Set out boards overnight to trap the bugs; they congregate under the boards, and you can squash them in the morning. Moschata varieties are the best ones for regions with high levels of squash bugs.
  • Leek moth larva
    Photo Wikipedia

    The leek moth is moving south from Canada. It makes pinholes in the leaves and tunnels into the material of the leaf, causing damage similar to tunneling by leaf miners. Leek moths lay individual eggs on lower leaf surfaces once night temperatures are above 50°F–54°F (10°C–12°C). See the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs for more information. Insect netting on hoops can be used. Consider an allium-free month in summer if you don’t grow leeks, in winter if you don’t grow garlic.

    Leek moth damage on leaves of mature leeks.
    Photo Wikipedia
  • Others include the pea curculio, stink bugs, loopers, bean leaf beetle, potato leaf-hopper, seed corn maggot, European corn borer, tarnished plant bug, mites, slugs, root lesion nematodes. Any may plague you. Consult reputable online sources, or your Extension Service.

Keeping on top of fast growth rates – Special Topic for June

Mow all paths and edges weekly. This will help protect your crops from the new season’s grasshoppers, as well as rabbits, groundhogs and deer. We don’t want to provide them with cover. Mowing will also reduce the formation of weed seedheads, and perhaps your grass allergies.

Till in finished crops promptly. Flame if tilling is impossible or you want to minimize tilling. At least mow the old crops down. This will reduce the habitat and food for pests. Alternatively, pull the old crops, load them onto a garden cart and take them off to your compost pile.

Be aware that removing a pest-infested crop (without roasting the pests) can scatter the pests to other nearby crops. Flaming is a good method of dispatching bug-infested old crops, and has the advantage of minimizing tilling. Consider leaving a sacrificial cluster of the old plants growing overnight, and then flaming them in the morning.

Next month I’ll write about corn earworm, cutworms and tomato hornworms.

More Resources

eOrganic Insect management in Organic Farming Systems has a long list of dozens of short publications, including specific ones for Striped Cucumber Beetle, Squash Vine Borer, Squash bugs, Stink bugs, Aphids, Nematodes, as well as Scouting, Farmscaping

Using Native Flowering Plants to Attract Beneficial Insects. Altieri, M., C. I. Nichols, and M. A. Fritz. 2005. Manage insects on your farm: A guide to ecological strategies. Sustainable agriculture network handbook series book 7. (Available online at: http://www.sare.org/Learning-Center/Books/Manage-Insects-on-Your-Farm)

ATTRA Squash Bug and Squash Vine Borer: Organic Controls, by K. Adam, includes pest lifecycles, systems-based management practices, mechanical and physical practices, and biological and botanical controls

Spring Cleaning my Farming and Gardening Slide Shows

Tomato transplants waiting in the cold frame.
Credit Kathryn Simmons

Now I no longer need to work on the new edition of Sustainable Market Farming, while it rains I am tackling some other indoor projects that need attention,  (2” in 2 days – we got off lightly compared to other parts of Virginia and Maryland). When not raining, I’ve been using opportunities for transplanting lettuce, harvesting snap peas, squash, the first cucumbers, and the last overwintered chard in the hoophouse, and shuttling pots and flats of starts out of the greenhouse door. Yesterday I almost forgot to look in the germination cabinet (retired fridge) to check the late tomatoes. They were very ready to emerge into the better light by the greenhouse windows!

Using a pole to locate cucumbers ready for harvest in the hoophouse.
Pam Dawling

This week I have been working through my slide shows. My bigger plan is to make sure all the ones on my website are fairly up to date, as well as my collection on SlideShare. Slide Share is now a Scribd company, and they have tidied up a lot. However, they offer people the chance to download slideshows for free for 30 days, along with ads. I’m not a fan of that, so I’m offering mine for viewing only, not downloading. I’m not willing to have ads pop up where I didn’t ask for them. You can watch as often as you like, and I plan to have most of my slides somewhere here on this site.

If you go to the side of this page (maybe the bottom if you’re on your phone), there’s a heading “Categories”. One of those is Slideshows. Click there and then scroll down (backwards in time) to the slideshow you want to see. Alternatively, if you know the title (or something close) type that into the Search box, and it should show up.

So, because this is what I’ve been doing, I’ll share some slideshows today. I’ve left it too late to write a blog post about a different topic anyway! Along the bottom of the slideshow pane, your cursor will find places to click to change the slide, or exit.

A bed of young onions in spring.
Credit Kathryn Simmons

Here’s Alliums Year Round

Alliums are all the members of the onion family.

 

Young Tokyo bekana under insect netting. See how we used binder clips to close the accidental holes? Clothes pins also work.
Pam Dawling

Here’s Season Extension

Remember, season extension has aspects at every time of year, pushing the growing or harvesting season of crops a bit beyond what they do naturally.

 

Sunn hemp, a warm weather leguminous cover crop at Nourishing Acres Farm.
Photo Pam Dawling

Here’s Crop Rotations

By planning crop rotations into the rest of the year, you can arrange  planting dates and what goes where, so that you can get as many cover crops sown as often as possible, building up the organic matter in your soil. This helps you grow the most productive crops, and the diversity of the cover crops and vegetable crops helps reduce pests and diseases.

 

Organic Vegetable Gardening Slide Show

I’m starting to spring clean my collection of slideshows. I have some new ones and many refreshed ones. My current list is 26 titles. I may retire some older ones. Here’s one of my newest ones, simply called Organic Vegetable Gardening, which I made for the Goochland Spring Garden Festival just last weekend. You can watch it here, using the arrows along the bottom edge of the slides

 

I made So Many Vegetables, So Little Space, for the Fairfax Master Gardeners and delivered it virtually in February. Click the link to see that one.

Since then I have also presented at the Organic Growers School at Mars Hill, NC in March, with two workshops, Season Extension (a popular request), and Grow More, Stress Less, co-presented with Ira Wallace.

Most of my slideshows can be viewed on SlideShare.  You don’t hear me talking, but you can take things at your own pace, lingering over the bits important to you and skimming the sections you already know or don’t need. You can see the slides in a larger size than here in this post.

The Beginner’s Garden podcast

I recently interviewed with Journey with Jill of The Beginner’s Garden Podcast. Watch us here:

JILL SAYS:

“In this episode, we explore how backyard gardeners can apply market farming techniques to grow healthier, more productive gardens with Pam Dawling author of Sustainable Market Farming. From disease and pest control to crop rotation and weeding, our guest shares practical, sustainable strategies drawn from real-world farming experience. 

Topics we cover include: 

🌱 Easy-to-apply disease management practices 

🧹 Smart, chemical-free weed control (and a realistic weeding schedule) 

🐛 Organic pest prevention strategies, including trap crops and netting 

🔁 How to rotate crops in small spaces—and why it matters 

🧠 Common myths and misconceptions about organic gardening 

Plus, hear how Pam’s book can help you garden with more confidence and fewer headaches – https://www.sustainablemarketfarming….”

So Many Vegetables, So Little Space

Here’s a new slideshow I made for the Fairfax Master Gardeners. It was  a virtual presentation and included a Question and Answer section. The event was supremely well-organized, and was seen by maybe 200 participants.

Usually I write for small-scale commercial growers and serious homesteaders. This was a chance to develop my information for people growing in small (urban?) spaces.

I started by listing 20 features of small space growing, then developed those ideas further, as you can see by clicking on the slideshow.

Aspects of Small Space Vegetable Production

  • Plan carefully to maximize returns
  • Choose crops that suit the conditions
  • Let others grow the space hogs!
  • Plant more than one crop in each bed during the season when possible
  • Remove crops past their peak
  • Avoid leaving idle space
  • Consider over-winter crops
  • Consider tall narrow crops
  • Consider fast-growing crops
  • Consider growing storage crops
  • Grow vegetables you like very fresh
  • Replenish the soil
  • Relay planting
  • Interplanting
  • Succession planting
  • Use containers, trellises
  • Season extension
  • More ideas
  • Using a crop value rating system
  • Record results for next year’s better plan

Pass the cursor over the lower edge of the frame and click on the arrow for the next slide.


I have closed the Facebook account for Sustainable Market Farming

It wasn’t being helpful to me and I didn’t like needing to check it to remove ads I thought I had already disallowed. Also, WordPress is planning to charge a monthly fee for merely forwarding existing blogposts to social media, after the first year.

I am interested to hear if readers support this move or find it annoying.

Farming and body mechanics; groundhogs; hoophouse and greenhouse energy efficiency.

I’m now home from the Future Harvest CASA conference  in Silver Spring, Maryland. As I said in my report from the VABF Conference, “if you’ve never been to a farming conference, I encourage you to try one this winter or spring. It’s a break from being pinned down in your usual farm (or other) routine, a chance to rest up in a hotel, look around and see what’s new in agriculture. Or get reminded of an idea you’ve been meaning to try.”

Initially, as we arrived, I was in culture shock being in a big city. So much traffic! So many people! Expensive car-parking fees! We stayed in the Courtyard Marriott hotel just a block from the Civic Center where the conference was held. The Civic Center is quite compact, two floors, not many rooms to get lost in. I would have appreciated more signs, and I guess others also asked for this, because by Saturday, there were signs pointing us to the various rooms. All attendees were provided with a light breakfast and a very tasty boxed lunch each day, from a heated tent outside the Center. Next to the tent was an open-air ice rink, an entertaining sight. Friday evening included a reception with plentiful appetizers and a cash bar.

Silver Spring Civic Center

I could see that this two day event worked well for fairly local people, who could use the Metro system and go home at night. It was a bit harder for out-of-towners, with no handy place to leave our bags and boxes. Two wide hallways were used for the trade show, giving us the chance to pick up literature and samples from almost 50 booths, and chat with the booth-holders and take away free things.

The event was well-organized and ran smoothly, and the 80 speakers were well cared for, with their presentations pre-loaded on the right computers in the right rooms, to save confusion. Each of the 50 workshops in eight sessions had a well-prepared volunteer ready to introduce us if needed and with cue cards to wave at the half-way point and when the session had only 15 minutes left.

A smart move by the organizers was to offer access to handouts and slideshows to all participants who returned their evaluations in a timely way!

Body Mechanics and Farming

I started my weekend off with a great workshop by Therese (Reci) High on Body Mechanics and Farming. The speaker was lively and engaging and we learned, or were reminded, how to care for our skeleton and muscles, how to properly use the body, and how to complete necessary farm tasks safely. This workshop was tagged as being for beginning farmers. I’m by no means a beginner and yet I found it very helpful and encouraging.

Deciding Which Vegetable Crops to Grow

I gave my Friday presentation in Session ll, with the goal of helping growers choose crops that fit their goals, providing a critical mass of diverse vegetables for the whole of their season. I advised considering factors such as how easy the crops is to grow, how long it is in the ground, how suited to the conditions, and how profitable for the time and land invested. I described a DIY Crop Value Rating System that can be used to scale up or scale back the crop portfolio. It was well received by a big roomful of people.

Dealing With Groundhogs and Livestock Predators

Live trap from Harbor Freight Tools

This workshop by Carrie Vaughn and MK Barnet, had the kind of practical detailed information we often need. The two good speakers showed us examples of live traps and Conibear kill traps and demonstrated how to set them up. They cautioned about using kill traps where there are small children or pets. They also covered how to be a successful trapper, by understanding the lifecycle and ways of groundhogs. This is where I learned that my long-held belief that groundhogs only produce one or two baby groundhogs each April, is so not true. A mother groundhog can give birth to as many as 9 babies! Like the deer population, that of groundhogs is much higher nowadays than before the Europeans arrived.

A participant told us about Fleming kill traps which cost only $11 each and are very effective.

Catching and killing pest mammals is a fraught subject among farmers and farm-adjacent people, and I appreciated the straight-forwardness of these speakers in tackling the topic. It was refreshing to be in a room of people dealing with this kind of problem. We also talked about cooking and eating our prey.

We also talked about deer, fences, and livestock guardian animals: a dog, a goose, a donkey or a llama. Only one, they need to bond with the animals they are protecting. They can be expensive. If you don’t take preventative action against predators, you will have the repeated sad task of dealing with predation. Take photos of any predation and study the mode of killing. This will help you figure out what animal is doing the damage. Consider electric fencing, or pastured poultry mobile roofed enclosures for chickens, who may not have much of a self-preservation instinct. Consult the American Pastured Poultry Producers Association. They have a great Listserv.

APPPA logo

Optimize Your Asian Greens Production

I gave my Asian greens presentation in the first session on Saturday. Asian greens deserve to be grown and eaten more! They are fast-growing and tasty, quick to cook, and come in a wide range of colors and flavors. They are not difficult to grow – treat them as you would broccoli or early cabbage. Here’s the slideshow, so you can see for yourself.

High Tunnel and Greenhouse Energy Efficiency

This presentation was by Chris Lent, who works at ATTRA. It was another example of a detailed workshop focused on a specific aspect of farming. Energy use and conservation are important on a commercial farm. It is too easy to waste money and energy on equipment that is oversized or otherwise inappropriate for the scale of your enterprise. Chris showed a photo of a modest-sized hoophouse with massive ventilation extraction fans, costing lots of money to run, unnecessarily. Ventilation fans should remove 8 cubic feet per minute per square foot in warm weather, reduced to 2 cfm/ft2 in cooler weather.

Hoophouse inflation blower air intake.
Photo Kathryn Simmons.

Horizontal airflow fans (HAF) should provide cfm in the range of twice the floor area. For a 30’ x 60’ tunnel with 4 HAF, this means 3600/4, 900cfm per fan, 1/10 to 1/15 horsepower. 1 hp = 746 watts approx.

Inflation blowers should be 60cfm if under 2400 sq ft, and 148 cfm if above that size. The goal is an air pressure difference of ½” of water column in the manometer. This provides an insulation value of 1.5R. It hit home for me that we really need a bigger blower than we have had for some years! No wonder we can never get above ¼” pressure difference!

Chris showed us how to make an energy assessment and shift to cost-effective measures to reduce energy wastage. He recommends buying a Kill-A-Watt meter to measure how much energy each electrical device uses. Also look for air leaks!

Many farmers know that USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) has EQIP grants and cost-share programs for high tunnels (hoophouses). Not so many know that farmers can also apply for money for energy upgrades (venting systems, fans). There was more info, but I’ve written enough for one post!

2017 photo throwing a water bottle over the hoophouse to help pull the plastic over. Wren Vile