It’s carrot planting time for many of us from spring to late summer, and many growers are searching my site for information. Here are quick links to all of my many carrot posts over the years. Inevitably there is some overlap.
After these links there are seasonal details on planting carrots.
Carrot Seed Viability: you may be wondering if you can still use the seeds leftover from last year. Carrot seeds are generally good for 3 or 4 years if you have stored them carefully. Click the link above to read Factors influencing seed viability and Seed germination testing
See my slideshow on Succession Planting. We sow carrots from mid-February to August. Here’s Video of me presenting Succession Planting for Continuous Vegetable Harvests ten years ago at New Country Organics (I’ve updated the presentation since then);
Sowing carrots: Surprisingly to me, I have not written much about sowing carrots in spring. From Root Crops in February: Carrots do very poorly with competition from weeds or too many other carrots. You can make use of the Stale Seedbed Technique, preparing the bed ahead of time, and flaming or hoeing one or more flushes of weeds as they germinate.
A young carrot bed in April, ready to hoe and thin. Photo Pam Dawling
Carrots are small seeds, needing a fine tilth (small soil particle size and good texture – not likely to crust or blow away). Good information on crop spacing for maximum yields, or biggest vegetables is in an out-of-print book, The Complete Know and Grow Vegetables by JKA Bleasdale, PJ Salter, and others. Buy it used.
For maximum total yield of carrots, they recommend 1.5” x 6” (4 x 15cm). You get medium-sized carrots. For early carrots go with 4 x 6” (10 x 15cm) to minimize competition and get rapid growth. If you want to have rows more than 6” (15cm) apart, calculate the area of these optimum spacings, then divide by your chosen row space. For example, if your rows are 12” (30cm) apart, the carrots can be as close as 0.75” (2cm) if total yield is more important than individual size, or 2” (5cm) for fast early carrots. We do five rows in a 4’ (1.2m) bed, so the rows are about 10” (25cm) apart, with the outer rows 4” (10cm) from the bed edge.
One of many wheelbarrows full of compost we spread every year. Photo Wren Vile
We aim to spread compost 4-6 weeks before planting, rototill 2-4 weeks before planting, and prep the bed a week or two before. This is more time than we allow later in the year, but in early spring it’s good to seize the opportunities that arise and not take the weather for granted.
This means in January we compost and till beds for our first two beds of carrots, to be sown February 14 and February 28.
In the first half of February we till and spread compost for more carrots (planting dates March 9 to 15).
In the second half of February, we compost the third carrot bed and till the ones we already composted.
Once we get to March, day length has improved and temperatures are starting to climb. There is a noticeable increase in the rate of germination and growth (unlike our February sowings, which are rooted in faith and optimism!).
In early March we till the third carrot bed.
All being well with the weather, we sow carrots #3 in mid-March
In late March, we sow carrots #4
Carrot beds in June. Bridget Aleshire
There’s also a full chapter on carrots with all my information in my book Sustainable Market Farming, 2nd edition. It includes info on varieties, and which types are better for which soils, pests and diseases, crop rotations, cover crops before and after carrots, and more.
Preparing for Carrot Sowing
Planning for a continuous supply; see my slideshow on Succession Planting. Carrots have a much longer window for harvesting than most carefully planned successions, so you can be a lot looser in your planting dates. Mainly, just grow enough! After the spring start-up plan, we sow carrots once a month in April and May. If we need to, we sow once a month in June and July, although summer-grown carrots do not taste as sweet as those grown in cooler weather. We finish with a big sowing at the end of July or early August, 10–12 weeks before the usual first frost, to be harvested in November and stored for winter eating.
Decide how many to plant. Yield: 100 lb/100′ (150 kg/100 m), 30,000 lb/acre (34,000 kg/ha)
Calculate the amount of seed required; Carrot seeds are 175,000–600,000 (avg. 288,000)/lb, 18,000 seeds/oz, 625 seeds/g. 3,000 seeds (0.2 oz, 6 g)/100′ (30 m), 1 seed/cm. 625 cm/g, 600’/oz, 9,600’/lb, 2.5 lb/acre (at 30 seeds/ft in rows 24″ (60cm) apart). 720,000 seeds/acre.
Success with Planting Carrots
Before you plant, understand soil temperature requirements: Use a soil thermometer! Flag its location so you don’t lose track of it! Measure at 4″ (10 cm) deep at 9am. Carrot emergence takes3 days at 50°F (10°C), 10.1 days at 59°F (15°C), 6.9 days at 68°F (20°C), 6.2days at 77°F (25°C), 6 days at 86°F (30°C)and 8.6 days at 95°F (35°C).
Soil thermometer. Worth its weight in gold.
Old books warn against using manure before sowing carrots as it will make them fork. This refers to uncomposted manure, not compost. Compost will increase yields and even reduce the culls with some varieties (research by Dan Brainard and Corey Noyes, at Michigan State University). Compost not only increases the organic matter in the soil but also suppresses some diseases and nematodes (which can cause forked carrots)
Seed spacing and depth: for carrots, aim to sow 30 seeds/ft (1/cm), only 0.25″–0.5″ (0.6–1.2 cm) deep. Close the furrows and tamp down the rows with the back of a hoe or rake. The goal is to get good contact between the seed and the soil. Keep the soil surface damp until the seedlings start to emerge.
We sow a few Indicator Beets at the beginning of the bed. Beets germinate
We sow “indicator beets” with our carrots so that we know when to flame-weed them Photo Kathryn Simmons
one day sooner than carrots at almost any temperature. When we see the red loops of the beet stems emerging, we know it’s the day to flame weed the carrots. (From Workhorse Crops for March)
Carrots do very poorly with competition, so try to start early carrots in a bed that had only light weeds the year before. Later sowings can make use of the stale seedbed technique, where the bed is prepared ahead of time and one or more flushes of weeds are germinated and flamed or hoed off.
Carrot row thinned to 1 inch. Kathryn Simmons
Growing Great Carrots: Thinning and Weeding
Remember to thin carrots as soon as you can see them well enough to do so. We usually hoe between the rows first, then crawl along thinning and weeding. It does take time! But you won’t get good carrots without thinning, unless you either have a precision-seeder that drops one seed per inch, or pelleted seed which you can sow at one per inch.
Precision seeders like the Jang are expensive, but worthwhile if you need to use it every week. Pelleted seed costs more than raw seed, and its big advantage is traded off for two other disadvantages: The soil has to be kept well-watered until germination or else the clay coating will imprison the seed forever, and the seed does not store for long – don’t keep any over for next year.
It pays to sow in parallel rows an even distance apart. This makes for fast and effective hoeing with fewer mistakes.
Early September photo of mulched June-planted potatoes. Photo Kathryn Simmons
Root Crops to Plant in Central Virginia in June
Potatoes: Yes, it is OK to plant potatoes in June, up until late June. Count back from your first frost date the 80-100 days or whatever your chosen variety needs to mature. See my post on planting potatoes. We buy our seed potatoes for the June planting in April, before local suppliers sell out of spring stocks. We store them in our walk-in cooler until two weeks before the planting date. I recommend some special techniques for summer potato planting. See the Other Root Crops Tasks section below for more details. An advantage of summer planting is that the harvested crop need only be stored from October or November, not over the hotter months.
Sweet potatoes: It’s still OK to plant sweet potatoes in June in central Virginia, and if you live in a colder climate, you probably wouldn’t even try to plant in May. It is best if the soil temperature is 65°F (18°C) for four consecutive days before planting. See my post on sweet potato planting
Carrots: We direct sow our seventh bed of carrots in mid-June. It can be hot and the challenge is to keep the soil damp. Unlike some other crops (lettuce and spinach come to mind), carrot seed will germinate just fine at high temperatures. Shadecloth can help keep the soil damp, or you can just water a lot. You won’t need to do daily watering for long: maybe only 4 days. See Root Crops in May.
We only sow in June and July if we really need carrots, as hot weather impairs the flavor. Our hope is always that we will have grown enough between February and May to last till late October, and have bags in storage in the walk-in cooler. Sow carrots whenever the soil is below 95°F (35°C), so long as you can keep the surface damp. In summer we flame carrots on day 4 after sowing, because we have found that carrots can emerge on day 5 in summer temperatures, despite longer times given in the charts. See Root Crops in May for more about sowing and growing carrots, including pre-emergence flame weeding.
See the Special Topic below for more on growing carrots.
Warmer climates with later frost dates than central Virginia: you may still be able to plant crops we gave up on in May.
Colder climates: you may need to sow rutabagas, which we don’t need to do till July.
Beets: We like Cylindra best (55 days to maturity, OP). Detroit Crimson Globe is said to maintain better flavor in hot weather than most others, which can develop off-flavors. Remember as you harvest beets to check the leaves, as possible cooking greens too.
Beet leaf with Cercospora leaf spot. Photo Purdue vegcropshotline.org
Later in the summer ours develop spotty holes from Cercospora Leaf Spot, and become unappetizing, but in early June they are usually fine. We like to clear all our spring beets by the end of June.
Store beets at 32°F (0°C) and 95% humidity. Trimmed beets keep well in perforated plastic bags under refrigeration. We have “rediscovered” stored bagged beets at the back of the refrigerator 9 months or so later and they were in fine condition.
There are also non-electric storage methods for roots, but these mostly rely on cool soil and cool air, so I’ll write about those when we get to fall. If you have a root cellar with a good temperature, you can use that. I have a chapter on root cellars in Sustainable Market Farming.
Carrots: Our second carrots (sown in late February) and third (sown in mid-March) will be ready to harvest in June. Possibly also our fourth sowing (late March), by the end of June. Don’t leave them in the ground too long, or they will get fibrous and woody. No fun!
Fennel bulbs: if you planted those in spring, they will be ready in June in central Virginia. If you didn’t grow this, consider it for fall, when it is easier to grow it without danger of it bolting. I wrote about fennel as a hoophouse crop in The Year-Round Hoophouse.
Kohlrabi: In our zone 7 climate, kohlrabi, like other brassicas, can be grown in spring or fall. So you can buy seed now and plan for kohlrabi in October, November, or into the winter if you store it. In spring we harvest kohlrabi from May 10 to June 30, when they reach 2-3” (5-7.5 cm) in diameter (or even up to softball size). The base of the globe can be quite fibrous, so cut either the wiry root just below the soil surface, or cut higher, leaving a small disc of the globe behind, attached to the root. We definitely need to dig all our spring kohlrabi by the end of June at the latest, or they get too woody. Unlike carrots and turnips, fennel and kohlrabi can successfully be transplanted.
Potato harvest. Photo by Nina Gentle
Potatoes: In mid-June we can start harvesting spring-planted potatoes as delicious “new” potatoes. Check under a plant to see how big the potatoes are. If they are big enough and you aren’t worried about reducing later final yields by starting early, go ahead and dig some. It doesn’t matter that the tops haven’t died. These new potatoes will have shreds of thin skin, not the firm skins needed for potatoes to be storable, so just dig them as you need them. If this is your first year growing potatoes, you will be amazed at how good they taste boiled with a sprig of mint. So much tastier than store-bought!
Turnips: They are among the fastest growing crops other than leafy greens. We harvest our spring turnips gradually, pulling the biggest and letting the rest grow bigger. By the end of June, though, we need to have them all up and if we have plenty, we store some in perforated plastic bags in the walk-in cooler, until mid-July. Turnips will keep for about 4 months at temperatures close to freezing and humidity of 90-95%. Higher humidity will make them rot.
Early Purple Top Milan turnip in late May. Photo Pam Dawling
Other Root Crops Tasksin Central Virginia in June: Summer Potatoes
In early June, in preparation for mid-June planting, we chit (pre-sprout) our seed potatoes for two weeks in trays in the light. Unlike chitting in February and march, the potatoes don’t need supplemental heat at this time of year. The method is the same as I described in my post Planting Potatoes. Let all the sprouts grow. For warm-weather planting, one sprout per seed piece is usually sufficient – the chance of frost is over, and “spare” shoots are not needed. Tubers with many sprouts can be cut into many seed pieces, which can save money. See the Planting Potatoes post for details on Cutting Potato Seed Pieces.
In warm conditions, deeper planting, hilling and thick organic mulches all help keep the plants cooler, as does irrigation. To help keep the soil cool while the potatoes are growing through the heat of July, August and September, we mulch with spoiled hay. (Straw would be nice, but this is not a grain-growing area). We bale our hay in the big round bales, and we have almost a quarter acre of summer potatoes to cover, so it is by far easier for us to unroll the bales before the potato shoots emerge from the soil. To lay the mulch by hand around the potato plants after they come up would take way too much work on our scale. Home gardeners may use loose mulch and tuck it in around the plants later.
So, in order to mulch the day after planting, we cover the seed pieces with soil, using the tractor and the hiller. (When we used our BCS tiller for this, we simply tilled between the rows, which leveled the field and covered the potatoes well enough). Then we hill, and unroll round bales of spoiled hay immediately, or the next day. Potatoes emerge quickly in warm weather! Hilling is tricky without any visible signs of where the potato pieces are. We have sometimes used stakes and ropes to mark the rows, or else flags at the ends of the rows, and crossed fingers as we drive the tractor and ridger down the field.
Unrolling hay bales is close to an Olympic team sport! We line up the bales (using a tractor and hay spike or forks) shoulder to shoulder at the uphill end of the patch. Our land is almost flat, but even a slight slope makes a noticeable difference when pushing a hay bale, so do start at the top end! Next we study the pattern of the grass stems in the ends of the bale, and if needed twizzle it round 180 degrees on the ground, so that it will unroll itself when pushed. We cut and remove the twine, then two or three people start it rolling. Once it’s going, each bale has two people unrolling it, and eventually it gets small enough for one person to handle and the other can go back to the top and help start another bale. We try not to walk on the hills and we try to lay out the hay like wall-to-wall carpeting, without gaps.
Newly mulched potato patch in June. Photo Pam Dawling
About 16 days after planting, in late June, we do a walk-through, one person per row evening out the mulch, and freeing trapped potato shoots. Everywhere we expect to see a potato but don’t, we part the mulch carefully, seeking pale flattened shoot. If we find one, we rearrange the mulch a little, so that the shoot is exposed to the light, but the soil is not. It’s not necessary to expose the whole shoot – even a little bit of stem is enough for the plant to reorient itself and be fine.
Later in the season we’ll need to weed the potatoes. I haven’t been mentioning it, but weeding is important for all crops, especially direct-seeded crops.
Special Root Crop Topic for June in Central Virginia: Carrot Types
I wrote quite a bit about sowing carrots, in the Root Crops in May blog post
These days there are many fancy colored carrots, but my preferences all lie with bright orange carrots, rich in beta carotene. We have tried growing a few white, yellow and purple varieties, but frankly I found them all very disappointing, as far as flavor and succulence. They tended to be scrawny! All carrots sweeten up when days are warm and nights cool.
Carrots come in five different carrot types based on their shape and size. The factors influencing your choice will be soil type, climate, market, and harvest time and method.
Danvers are a long, thick-rooted cylindrical shape tapering to a point. They often have a yellowish core. The leaves and taproot are both longer than Chantenay types. They are suited to high production of bulk carrots and widely used in processing. They store well. They are more tolerant to poor soil, but grow best in deep, sandy loam. Making raised beds helps.
Varieties: Danvers (OP), Healthmaster (F1), Danvers Half Long (OP), Danvers 126 (OP) Season: spring to fall. Summer in cool climates Days to Maturity: 70-80 in spring, 80-110 in the fall
In central Virginia, zone 7, on a sandy clay loam, we grow Danvers 126, a sturdy open pollinated variety.
Nantes are medium-length, straight, cylindrical roots 5-7” (13-17 cm) long with blunt tips and sparse foliage. A very quick growing variety. Nantes types have sweet, juicy, tender, crisp, almost red flesh; but only limited storage potential, and they are somewhat brittle. They contain few terpenoids, the volatile flavor compounds we think of as “carroty”. When poorly grown, they can be watery and bland. Nantes do best inloose, sandy soil or raised beds enriched with organic matter
Varieties: Early Nantes (OP), Scarlet Nantes (F1), Bolero (F1), Mokum (F1), Napoli (F1) Season: spring to fall; summer if not too hot Days to Maturity: 55-70 in spring, 60-75 in fall
We have grown the 75-day Bolero, a high-yielding carrot that stays sweet even in storage. 6-7” (15-18cm) long, with a 1 ½” (4cm) crown. It looks a bit prettier, and has slightly better flavor than Danvers, but ultimately we decided the extra cost of the seed was not worth it to us. The resistance to Alternaria or Cercospora found in Bolero has been important for our fall crop.
Imperator –Most commercial growers produce this type. They are similar looking to Danvers, but bigger: longer, thicker in width, with stocky shoulders and strong fast-growing tops. They store very well. They perform best in deeply worked sandy loam soil. In rougher soils, they develop a slightly fibrous texture. Imperator types contain more terpenoids, and can be prone to bitterness if something goes wrong. Many hybrid varieties are a cross between Nantes and Imperator types.
Varieties: Sugarsnax (F1), Autumn King (OP) Season: spring to summer in cool climates, or summer to fall Days to Maturity: 55-100 in spring, 80-110 in fall
I have grown Autumn king in England and it was a very reliable variety.
Chantenay:short and broad conical roots with rounded tips, 6-7” (15-17 cm) long. Very vigorous top growth. Rich, sweet flavor. Chantenay store extremely well. They are the best type to plant in shallow, rocky or heavy clay soil due to their shape. Of course they also do well in better soils! These are a great choice for those gardening in containers. It is important to harvest at the appropriate length because they become woody and poorly flavored if harvested too big.
Varieties: Red Cored Chantenay (OP), Kuttiger (white, OP), Kuroda (OP) Hercules (F1), Carson (F1) Season: spring to early summer, midsummer to late fall Days to Maturity: 55-70 in spring; 70-110 in fall
I have grown Red CoredChantenay (65 days), a blocky variety with a blunt tip, 5″ (13 cm) long and 2″ (5 cm) at the shoulder. It resists splitting. The flavor of Chantenay types has been described as “parsley-like”. Kuroda types have a drier, creamier flavor. They are tolerant to Alternaria.
Heavy yield of Oxheart carrots. Photo Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
In the past, before the soil here had been improved, we had to grow shorter carrots, as the long ones would break in the tight soil. Most of the varieties recommended for clay soils are small, as well as short. Nearby at Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, they have had astounding success with Oxheart (90 days, OP) a large, squat, chubby Chantenay type, with shoulders reaching 5″ (13 cm) across and 3-4″ (7-10 cm) long with a full carrot flavor.
Miniature: round, cylindrical or tapered roots less than 5” (13 cm) long; crisp texture and frequently quite sweet This grouping includes carrot varieties that are shaped like radishes and miniature regular-carrot shaped ones. They work extremely well in containers due to their short taproot; They will grow in any fertile soil that drains well They have only limited storage potential.
Varieties: Thumbelina (OP), Little Finger (OP), Parmex (OP), Atlas (OP), Babette (OP), Romeo (OP), Paris Market (OP). Season: spring to early summer, late summer to fall Days to Maturity: 50-60 in spring, 60-70 in fall
Johnny’s has a pictorial comparison of some varieties on their website, under Growers’ Library/Vegetables at for maincrop and storage carrot varieties, the tiny round Atlas, Romance, Hercules, Bolero, Nectar and the long slender Sugarsnax; and for early varieties, small Adelaide, Yaya, Mokum and Napoli.