Hoophouse Solarization Ponderings

 

Our hoophouse on solarizing day, August 5. Note we kept the big shadecloth over the roof until we had done the work of installing the plastic over the soil. Photo Ken Bezilla

Solarization Benefits We Hope For

I wrote Solarization of Our Whole Hoophouse on 8/12/26. This summer we decided to solarize the whole hoophouse. We hope to reduce fungal diseases in our winter crops, draw down the weed seed bank, and kill lots of nematodes. We planned to solarize for the whole of August (4 weeks). We started that on August 5, and solarized until September 3, a full 4 weeks later.

A One-Month Break from Usual Hoophouse Work

It was a nice break to do nothing in the hoophouse for a month except run the drip irrigation twice a week. We left the drip tape in place so we could water the soil and keep it alive below the hot zone. It was an unearthly sight to just have a sea of plastic in there, and one of the crew popping in there to turn on the irrigation reported that to was quite surreal to walk barefoot on the hot plastic.

We agreed to use the time to do some infrastructure repairs, and did get a new window made and the other one repaired.

We repaired our big all-encompassing shadecloth and reset the grommets to be a better fit with the spacing of the hooks in the baseboards.

We researched horizontal airflow fans to replace our hippy-rigged box fans, but we balked at the $1000 price tag. Maybe EQIP grants would help?

We did our crop planning for the winter and made a map. We cross-checked the schedule against the map and made sure everything fit. We did some perimeter weeding and laid down landscape fabric.

A Bad Choice Narrowly Avoided

We had the notion that if we had thought of it in time, we might have spread mature compost on the beds before spreading the plastic and killed the weed seeds that landed on the compost pile while we ignored it all summer. We got behind with the mowing, and we know grass and spiny amaranth seeded somewhat on to the pile. Fortunately, we didn’t do that! Sterilized compost has most of its microorganisms killed! Instead, we re-composted the weed-seed-infested pile and got a new pile in the meantime.

Hoophouse soil thermometer showing 100F (38C). Photo Ken Bezilla

De-Solarizing Day

On de-solarizing day we allowed a little lead time (not enough!) to disperse some of the 120F (49C) heat by flinging open the doors and windows. The soil temperature was 100F (38C). The peak air temperature during the month may have reached 140F (60C) although no one wanted to linger in there long enough to really study the thermometer. It had been 80F (27C) before we solarized and is back down to that temperature in as I write this in late September.

Normally we leave the big shadecloth in place over the whole hoophouse until mid-September or so, but this year we wanted maximum heating for the solarization, so we removed it a couple of days after solarizing (when it stopped raining).

We had bought 32’x100’ (9.7×30.5m) plastic which was just right for the footprint of our 30’x 96’ (9 x 29m) gothic hoophouse. We unrolled it down the center bed (it was folded in several concertina folds from each edge to the middle). We mimicked that kind of folding to pack it away.

The first step of removing the hoophouse solarizing plastic: folding the edges to the middle. Photo Ken Bezilla

We started by removing the buckets of rocks we had set round the edges to hold the plastic down. Next we folded both sides to meet in the middle. We got old towels to wipe the underside of the plastic dry. We used some of the drying time to teach broadforking and cultivation and raking to new crew members. We noticed how warm the soil was to our hands.

Wiping the solarizing plastic dry between folds. Photo Ken Bezilla

Next we brought the outer folds in to meet in the middle again, and repeated the mopping operation. Later we thought a sponge mop might have been a useful tool. We used more drying time to start to return things we had stored in a shed during Solarization Month.

Removing hoophouse solarizing plastic: second fold of edges to the middle. Photo Ken Bezilla

We repeated the folding until a simple folding in half made a sensible size for rolling, and ended up with a fat roll of plastic tied up with rope. We wrote on it to deter anyone who might think of using that plastic for any other purpose.

The last fold of the the hoophouse solarizing plastic, making it ready to roll once dried. The dried stems are from a buckwheat cover crop we covered with the plastic. Photo Ken Bezilla.

Disadvantages of Solarizing

I was sad to say goodbye to the hoophouse bell peppers as they were the best we’ve had in years. Usually we keep the peppers until October and do our winter crop planning so that the pepper area is the last planted in winter crops, but we made that sacrifice! For several years our peppers didn’t do well, as the salinity of our soil had got too high. We now do salt wash-downs in September and March. This year the peppers were spectacular! Big plants, huge peppers! Rather disappointing to have to pull them at the beginning of August.

Bullnose pepper in our hoophouse June 27. Photo Alexis Yamashita

Several days into the solarizing I realized with dismay that we had killed off all our zipper spiders and probably their egg cases. The spider corpses were still attached to the framework. Zipper spiders seem to be homebodies. Surely they could have found a way to leave? But mostly they do die at the end of summer, just not on open display. In recent years we have not had any of these spiders outdoors, but many in the hoophouse. They do good work consuming the insects they trap.

Zipper spider on the pepper plants in our hoophouse on September 10 a previous year.
Photo Pam Dawling
Zipper spider egg cases hanging from the hoophouse plastic.
Photo Wren Vile

One big disadvantage of our choice was that the work of bed prep and planting in there after de-solarizing was dreadful! We had hot sunny weather, and the allocation of each day’s prep work took 3 hours or more. By lunchtime it was 120F (49C) in there on many days. Exhausting work! But it didn’t seem worth putting the big shadecloth back in place as we normally remove it around September 20.

Hoophouse fall bed prep. Broadforking in plastic sandals is not recommended! Photo Ken Bezilla

Apart from the workers suffering the effects of the heat, the soil also dried out a lot faster, and we had to keep working (no rest!) to break up the big lumps of soil before they became bricks.

We prepped one bed and got ready to sow. We decided to use wire hoops and a 6’ (2m) roll of shadecloth like we do outdoors for lettuce in hot weather. That worked well, although the bed edges did dry out fast, maybe because the paths were still holding heat from the solarizing. So we had to handwater the bed edges daily for a week or so.

Spinach seedlings from pre-sprouted seed in the hoophouse in September.
Photo Pam Dawling

One of the first crops we sow is spinach, using seed pre-sprouted in the fridge for 6 days. No way would it have germinated in that hot hoophouse soil! On sowing day, the spinach seed showed little sign of sprouting, but we sowed, watered well, shaded it, and it came up great! The extra attention paid off. This spinach will feed us all winter until about March, as we just harvest leaves. By September 21, all the early crops in that bed had emerged (scallions, Bulls Blood beets, tatsoi, radishes as well as the spinach). We needed to remove the shadecloth from the bed once everything had emerged, so the seedlings didn’t get leggy. 12 hours of daylight isn’t so much.

The perennial weeds growing in under the baseboards did not die. Once we removed the plastic the wiregrass (Bermuda grass) raced across the edge bed and started colonizing the next bed. Fortunately juvenile wiregrass is relatively easy to pull up.

De-solarizing our hoophouse. Note the vigorous wiregrass along the south baseboard. Photo Ken Bezilla

Most years we grow summer cover crops in the hoophouse, thus keeping the soil-life active and adding organic matter. This summer offered no gain of organic matter, which I do regret.

Advantages of Solarizing

We have sowed an outdoor seedbed with things to transplant into the hoophouse in October when we have more beds prepared. Work is progressing well, although we’ve had to scramble some days to stay on track.  Because using transplants from outdoors is part of our usual plan, we did not have to make any changes to the beds after the first one, om account of high temperatures.

The advantages of solarizing will become apparent in the next 6 months. Two weeks after uncovering the soil we did find a tiny tomato seedling, but the seed could have been dropped from our clothes after the solarizing month, rather than being a survivor. It was interesting to see it.

For myself, I’m unsure if I’d want to do this again. The advantages are going to have to be huge – like no more nematodes. I’ll write more as the next year unfolds.

Solarization of our whole hoophouse

 

Solarization plastic spread across our hoophouse. Next we weighted down the edges with small buckets of rocks. Photo Ken Bezilla

I wrote in August 2019 about Solarization and Crop Choices to Fight Nematodes. Previously we solarized part of a bed in our hoophouse, or one or two beds. I’ve written before about our first efforts at solarization to fight root knot nematodes in our hoophouse. Back then we shoveled soil on the plastic edges to make a good seal between the plastic and the soil. Later we developed a good technique of pushing the plastic edges down into soil using spades, which gives a much better seal, and if you work both sides of the bed at the same time you can avoid wrinkles.

Solarizing a single bed in 2019 using a spade to push the plastic edge into the soil..
Photo Pam Dawling

This summer we decided to solarize the whole hoophouse. We hope to make progress on reducing fungal diseases in our winter crops, drawing down the weed seed bank, and killing lots of nematodes. We plan to solarize for the whole of August (4 weeks). Here’s the story so far.

Solarization

Solarization is a method of killing pests, diseases and weed seeds near the surface of the soil by covering the soil with clear plastic in hot weather. Nematodes are only active in warm weather, and we have not had problems with them outdoors, but of course, it’s warmer in the hoophouse!

In my Book Review: The Organic No-Till Farming Revolution: High Production Methods for Small-Scale Farmers, Andrew Mefferd, I wrote a little about solarizing:

“Solarization uses clear plastic (old hoophouse plastic is ideal). In a summer hoophouse, solarization can be as quick as 24 hours, Andrew says. When we’ve done this, one of our goals was to kill nematodes and fungal diseases, not just weeds, so we waited a few weeks. Outdoors it takes several weeks. You can see when the weeds are dead. Bryan O’Hara poked a thermometer probe through solarization plastic and found a 50F degree (28C) difference between the outside air and the soil immediately under the plastic; a 10F (6C) difference at 1″(2.5 cm) deep and little temperature gain lower than that. Solarization does not kill all the soil life!”

Preparation for Solarizing

Last time we changed the plastic, we saved our old hoophouse plastic in one large sheet, for just this option of solarizing the whole hoophouse. Unfortunately, someone used it for some other purpose, and we ended up having to buy new plastic to carry out our plan. Ouch! Label your old plastic very thoroughly! We bought 4 mil Tufflite Nursery Clear plastic from Nolts Greenhouse Supplies, Ephrata, PA (only rated for one year outdoors), thinner than the 6mil we buy for covering the frame. Be aware that shipping can be a big part of the cost, unless you are ordering lots of things.

Clearing hoophouse tomatoes and sunn hemp cover crop.
Photo Pam Dawling

We pulled up our tomatoes and cucumbers at the end of July, a week earlier than usual. The squash had already gone. I was sad to say goodbye to the bell peppers as they were the best we’ve had in years. Usually we keep the peppers until October and do our winter crop planning so that the pepper area is the last planted in winter crops, but we made that sacrifice! For several years our peppers didn’t do well, as the salinity of our soil had got too high. We now do salt wash-downs in September and March. This year they were spectacular! Big plants, huge peppers!

Lady Bell peppers ripening on 7 July.
Photo Pam Dawling

We decided to keep the big shadecloth in place for the solarizing day, expecting it to be very hot. It wasn’t, but it was a wise precaution. We planned to remove the shadecloth the next day, but it was raining and we need the shadecloth to be dry to pack it away. So we waited a couple of days for our little monsoon season to pass. Normally we leave the shadecloth in place until mid-September or so, but this year we want maximum heating for the solarization.

We are leaving the drip tape in place so we can water the soil and keep it alive below the hot zone. If we had thought of it in time, we might have spread compost on the beds before spreading the plastic and killed the weed seeds that have landed on the compost pile while we ignored it since early April. We were stretched thin and got behind with the mowing, and we know grass and spiny amaranth seeded somewhat on to the pile. We did have it partly covered with a tarp.

Unrolling the Plastic

Unrolling plastic to solarize the hoophouse.
Photo Pam Dawling

We bought plastic 32’x100’ which was just right for the footprint of our 30’x 96’ gothic hoophouse. We unrolled it down the center bed (it was folded in several concertina folds from each edge to the middle). We gradually unpacked the folds and pulled the plastic out to the edges. It is important to get as smooth and tight a fit as possible (few airgaps between soil and plastic).

We designated one person to take their sandals off and walk on top of the plastic, while the rest of us gathered small buckets and put some rocks in them, to anchor the edges. This all went very smoothly and took less time than we expected. We used about one bucket of rocks every 20’ down the length. We rolled our painters’ pole that we use for our SnoBrum in the plastic across the west doorway, the direction the strongest winds come from, for add extra security in preventing wind getting under that edge of the plastic. We did not bury the plastic edges in the soil, as that seemed difficult and we figured a large area would suffer less edge cooling/heat escape than a single bed.

Closing Up the Hoophouse for a Month

We closed the doors and windows and relaxed into enjoying a summer month off from harvesting in the hoophouse. We have made a list of infrastructure repairs, landscape care and, of course, the winter crop planning to do in t he next month. And we’ll be irrigating maybe twice a week and checking the soil thermometer periodically. It showed 80F last week, before we solarized.

Hoophouse solarization at Dripping Springs Garden, Arkansas.
Photo Pam Dawling

More Resources on Solarizing

eOrganic’s Organic Vegetable Production Systems Topics list offers publications on plant disease management, weed management and management of soil-borne pathogens using Anaerobic Soil Disinfestation. Here’s a 2025 webinar about On-farm Anaerobic Soil Disinfestation for the Management of Soilborne Pathogens in High Tunnel Production Systems:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pEf26ae6XI

The University of California Solarization site and their Small and Organic Farm Advisor have good information, including some in Spanish and Hmong

More Resources on Nematodes

I’ve written here before about our struggles with root knot nematodes in our hoophouse, and you can read everything I know about nematodes in the Year-Round Hoophouse.

My article on nematodes in Growing for Market  in November 2014 describes our discovery of the beasties and our first attempts to deal with them. My most thorough blogpost about nematodes was for Mother Earth News  Managing Nematodes in the Hoophouse. It’s free for MEN members.

There is info on dealing with nematodes from Garry Ross in Hawaii, where nematodes are a fact of daily life, in my post Cold weather, snow, thinking about nematodes from February 2015.