We started harvesting our hardneck garlic on May 26 this year. One of the earliest harvests we have on record.
I’ve written lots on garlic in this blog, it’s one of the most sought-out topics. To cut to the chase, here’s my Garlic Recap.
Many of these are posts in my Alliums for the Month Series:
- Plant Garlic (Alliums for November)
- Free Trapped Garlic Shoots (Alliums for December)
- Plant garlic scallions from softneck varieties (Alliums for February)
- Garlic Scallions (Alliums for March and April)
- Garlic Scapes (Alliums for May)
- Harvesting Garlic (Alliums for June)
- Snip and Sort Garlic (Alliums for July)
- Move Stored Garlic (Alliums for September)
- And to sum it all up see My Garlic Slideshow
For a second opinion, see Margaret Roach (who grows in Massachusetts) in A Way to Garden
- The full how-to on growing is here
- Growing and storing a year of garlic
- The hardneck bonus: garlic scapes
- The Tricky Matter Of When To Harvest Garlic
- Harvest and curing details
Of the many other posts I’ve written on garlic, that are not mentioned already, starting with harvest and moving round the calendar, there are:
In September 2020, a reader asked:
In this blogpost https://www.sustainablemarketf
arming.com/2013/07/05/ snipping-sorting-and-storing- garlic/ you discuss that if a garlic bulb is larger or smaller than 2-2.5″, it should not be used for planting. I’m wondering if you could discuss this in a blogpost perhaps. I grow Polish White softneck and Turban hardneck, and I’ve been using the largest bulbs I can find for planting both. I sort the Polish first though, and use only the biggest cloves from each softneck bulb (culls I dry or pickle). I feel that with the Polish, over time I’ve been increasing my size, and people really like that to purchase. I would be so very interested to read your reasons for the sizing. I’m currently sorting for fall planting and was mulling this today and thought I would just ask to see if you might enlighten your readers. Thanks.
My reply is:
Ah, the hazards of writing a brief article! You can plant any size garlic! Using large cloves from large bulbs usually gives the highest yields, and will, if repeated every year, steer your crop towards bigger bulbs. However, there is a limit: the very largest bulbs are often irregular, and have got large by growing lots of cloves, some of which are very small. As this is probably not what you want to steer towards, don’t use very large irregular bulbs as planting stock.Yes, I totally agree that if your bulbs are now generally 2.5″ or larger, you are doing the right thing.
Drying and Curing, Snipping, Sorting and Storing
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Birth of Assassin Bugs
Debbie Roos, an Agricultural Extension Agent at Chatham County Center, North Carolina Cooperative Extension and the founder of www.growingsmallfarms.org is a wonderful photographer,. She recently reposted this.
A couple of years ago I posted a series of photos on my Growing Small Farms website showing assassin bug nymphs emerging from their eggs. It was an amazing thing to witness and not something you see every day. Folks really enjoyed seeing the photos back then and since it’s spring and time for more to emerge I thought it would be fun to share the photos again now that so many people are spending so much time at home!
Be on the lookout for these egg clusters on your property and you may even get lucky and witness the birth of an assassin!
Steve Albert has an informative website, Harvest to Table, and this post on quick-growing vegetables includes some warm weather crops like bush green beans and sweet corn. It includes names of fast-maturing varieties.
How to Fight Hornworms
This magazine is “a quarterly publication committed to giving you in-depth expertise to bolster your organic garden each and every season. Roll up your sleeves and learn soil-boosting strategies, permaculture practices, and more! Formerly known as Heirloom Gardener.”
From Margaret Roach at A WAY TO GARDEN
Margaret writes about home-grown seedlings, finding flavor, choosing between hybrids and open-pollinated varieties, saving seed, good tomato-hygiene, monitoring for pests and diseases, pruning, staking or otherwise supporting the plants, and dealing with the weather.