Book Review: The Resilient Farm and Homestead, by Ben Falk

Front cover of Ben Falk’s book, The Resilient Farm and Homestead, revised edition. Chelsea Green

Book Review: The Resilient Farm and Homestead: 20 Years of Permaculture and Whole Systems Design. Ben Falk. Chelsea Green. Revised and Expanded Edition, 2024. 342 pages, $44.95 US, 40G BP.

Ten years after writing the first edition of his book, Ben Falk has made a revised and expanded edition with new information on greenhouse design, agroforestry, silvopasture, beekeeping, human health and more. Even more valuable are his further ten years of experience feeding his thoughts and practice of permaculture in a cold Vermont climate, no-till farming, native versus introduced plants and insects, vegan versus livestock-included farming, dealing with climate change and living a whole life. He was a single, physically fit, energetic and slightly idealistic, 25-year-old when he landed on his 10-acre homestead in 2003, and 35 when he wrote his first book, encouraging readers to “Be bold and try stuff.” After another ten years, he has a partner and a son, a lot of lived experience with various agricultural theories, a realization that his first decade was the “establishment phase,” a career in professional land use design, and determination to live a balanced life. His gained wisdom shines through.

Ben has the courage to tackle his earlier ideas and those of other agricultural writers and speakers and say what did not work for him and what does. You can be confident that his suggestions are practical and efficient, as well as resilient. The beautiful photos show ideas in action, not merely under construction as some permaculture publications do. Rice paddies in Vermont, possible but sensible? Swale-enclosed ponds, lovely.

The book includes chapters on creating a legacy in a time of change, design and site establishment, water and earthworks, fertility harvesting and cycling, food crops, adaptive fuel and shelter, resilience and regeneration for the long haul. There are useful appendices, including an aptitude quiz on living a resilient lifestyle, a skill list for emergencies, a curriculum for a resilient homestead, a checklist of tools and materials, a vulnerability checklist, and a glossary, a resource list, chapter notes and a thorough index. The introduction lists 20 new ingredients in this revised edition (including a list of 30 common cold climate site design and building mistakes); 16 practices they have stopped since his first book (spraying compost tea takes too much time and shows little result); and 10 new practices they have adopted (grazing cows).

Farming and ecological living can appeal to people across the political spectrum, but Ben does not shy away from briefly mentioning the current threats of economic, social and environmental collapse, while addressing vulnerabilities and how we might respond. This is not a “doom-reading” book, but an encouraging and very practical one! “If we steer Earth towards adaptive regeneration, we’ll see true resilience much sooner than by just letting it develop ‘naturally’.”

This book uses permaculture design and its framework for problem-solving and refers to numeric zones within a location. This is concisely explained, so don’t let the word deter you if you are new to permaculture. Ben Falk has not unquestioningly adopted that cause, or the Green Dream (personal ecological consumerism regardless of lack of fundamental political change) but thoughtfully tested and applied ideas that work and don’t cause problems elsewhere in the world. Ben advocates for people becoming producers rather than merely “less-bad “consumers.

The chapter on design and site establishment is best read before you decide which piece of land to buy. This is the time to consider your mission, goals, analysis of what’s possible, and how you plan to do that. To make your land use design, analyze what’s available, consider your options and implement your decisions, (aka think-design-do-reflect-redesign) as many times in a repeating cycle as you need to. Likely you’ll have more ideas for tweaking the system than you have energy for, so you’ll need to prioritize the adjustments that will have the most effect. This ensures maximum regeneration of land for minimum energy and time input. Ben lists his top five leverage points: swale construction and use, grazing animals, broadcasting seed and transplanting, cutting and clearing trees, scraping and tillage to create bare soil.

We need crops that convert the most sunshine and rainfall into usable food. More nut trees, for example, and intensive rotational grazing. Much of the cold-temperate climate landscape would be most productive converted to permanent silvopasture. Sometimes fossil fuel use to develop a site sooner is very worthwhile. Examples include chain saws, earthmovers, electric power tools.

Resilience is the ability of a system to recover from disturbances. Factors include Diversity, Redundancy, Connectivity and Manageability. Efficiency is not the same as Resiliency. The “whole world” picture needs to be included, and adapting to changing conditions must be built in. Actions that increase both biodiversity and biomass increase the ability to be regenerative.

No single design works for all sites or all groups of people. Your own skills and aptitudes are your most dependable asset. Practice welcoming adversity (the blessing of disillusionment), as a chance to learn and grow stronger. Try to avoid tight attachments to your goals, as this can lead to big struggles. Check out popular notions that others have already found faulty: planting marginally-hardy perennial plants beside bodies of water does not keep them warmer in winter! Your climate is not the same as information from ten years ago would have you believe! Keep your own weather records. Likewise, observe whether some practices you don’t believe in – dowsing for example – do in fact work. Modify your design to balance theoretical “best” practice with practicality: perfectly on-contour plantings do slow, spread and sink water best, but they make mowing and harvesting harder.

Once you have your land, assess it in some detail before taking any firm direction. Work with the realities of your land, rather than planning to radically change them. You may see a better plan emerging. Good designs incorporate the ability to change. Using modular designs makes this easier. For example, consistent bed and path sizes.

Overview of Ben Falk’s homestead. Photo from his website, https://www.wholesystemsdesign.com/

Swales are on-contour ridges made by ditching along contours and piling the soil below the ditch, helping even out the water supply and retaining water that would have run off the surface as much as 20ft downhill. Swales make great places to plant hedges, and the space between one swale and the next makes a good small paddock for intensive rotational grazing.

Only the importation of fertility from other parts of the world has enabled chemical farming to continue after the Great Soil Erosion of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. When this becomes no longer tenable, will we turn to regenerative farming, or let society collapse? We can save farming by building and conserving topsoil.

When we make compost we need to investigate the source and the content of the materials: What feedstock was given to the Organic livestock that provides the manure? Was it from lab rats with a diet of antibiotics or worse? Grasses take up PFAS, such as those in flexible plastic sheeting. But if not contaminated, they can be a key nitrogen resource. Are roadside leaves safe? Pond weeds, comfrey, burlap bags, cover crops and organic mulches all have their advocates, Human urine benefits plants. Humanure is possible if the household doesn’t use pharmaceutical drugs. Biochar can increase soil water retention, reduce nutrient leaching and encourage diverse micro-organisms, but poorly made biochar can stunt plant growth spectacularly.

Wood chips are great, but wood chippers are expensive to own and operate and a pain to use. (One colleague said to me, “Lots of money, lots of noise, lots of gasoline, lots of time, lots of logs and branches. Small pile of chips.”)

Remineralization is the replacement of missing or deficient minerals, which could be factors limiting crop health. The Soil Food Web is an approach that focuses on soil biological activity as the main limiting factor in crop health.

Livestock has an important role for resilient homesteads. Regenerative high density stocking with very short periods of grazing in each paddock (called intensive tall-grass grazing or mob stocking ) is very productive and builds soil. Tall grasses (having deep roots) are grazed down to within a foot of the ground (not all the way down). Some roots die back once they are no longer needed.  As the tops quickly grow back, more roots grow, and soils build. Active management produces much healthier soil than neglect does. Anyone wanting to restore a neglected field area can read what not to do, and what to do, in this chapter. Ben’s approach included sheep, prescribed burns, scything, and over-seeding for several years. But no tilling or plowing.

There are benefits to mowing in some circumstances, with correct timing and severity. Stem density increases and grasses are promoted. If the existing plants have been cut down enough by grazers or machinery, May and June are the windows for lightly reseeding. Never let a field lie fallow for more than a year. Water management will help reclamation. Mow early and often.

Consider permanent fencing. Plan tree plantings in straight rows to make fencing and mowing easy. Refrain from pruning off lower branches if you plan to have livestock, as that will deter browsing. Feed hay to cattle on pasture if needed. If you don’t want to raise animals, you need to mulch or mow the understory of your trees and perennial vegetables. Those tasks take a lot more labor than raising livestock.

Ducks and chickens, sheep and cows all have their niche. Ben found sheep to be more work than cows, and both to be quite an emotional and logistical commitment. Sheep are prone to many diseases, but have a role as smaller, short-term livestock, practical on a smaller homestead. Ducks eat slugs, forage actively, are cold-hardy and have low health maintenance needs. They are good layers, and good mothers, have good predator-awareness, and generally won’t fly away.

Don’t believe all the generalizations you might hear about livestock, species, varieties or even individual animals. Ben reports that his ducks never ate mature vegetation during the growing season, for 3 years. In year 4 they attacked the cabbages. Who knows why? It was a dry, relatively slugless summer, which might have contributed. Observe what is true of your animals this year, but don’t depend on the same thing happening next year. Do believe that chickens will scratch up your seedlings and new transplants!

Keyline plowing is favored by many permaculturists. It was developed in the drylands of eastern Australia and may not translate to moister climates. It doesn’t work well in New England, for example. It may be useful in cold climates (where weather and soil conditions combine to move water across the soil, rather than into it) if drought conditions prevail. Managed small ephemeral ponds can capture and hold heavy rainfall.

Ponds at Ben Falk’s homestead. Photo from his website, https://www.wholesystemsdesign.com/.

In-ground septic systems have leach fields capable of supporting good crop yields, of either cover crops or food crops. Plants cannot move bacteria or other organic pathogens through their tissues, so there is no danger of E. coli in tomatoes grown above your leach field. Plants can, however, bioaccumulate heavy metals and other inorganic compounds. If in doubt, test the plants. Research 2020-2023 suggests plants tend to accumulate PFAs as well as toxins in their vegetative parts, rather than their fruits and seeds.

Chapter 5 moves us on to details of food crops. Long ago, Polynesians navigated the Pacific in their canoes, locating small pieces of land to settle. They took with them 24 special “canoe plants”. These included foods, medicines, fiber and dye plants, building materials and ceremonial plants. They carried plants gathered from a wide area of the world, to adapt to many situations.

Alongside the benefits of perennial crops, there are some disadvantages. Climate weirdness brings changes to frost dates that kill blossoms and pollinators, and can affect chilling hours and flowering dates. One harvest per year from the space the crop occupies can be less than short term multi-cropping annuals provide. Establishment of perennials can take years (so grow some annuals around new perennials for the first few years).

People with short growing seasons would do well to grow lots of storage crops, and all of us are advised to grow a wide range of diverse crops. The book has tables of perennial crops best suited to various extremes of weather, Goldilocks crops to try out on a small scale, if at all, and those that give high yields.

For simplicity, focus on larger quantities of more-reliable long-storing foods rather than lots of small-quantity foods (but keep that crop diversity in mind!). Although Ben’s family used to grow paddy rice, they no longer do so, due to challenges of aquatic weeds, and losses to birds. Especially focus on summer-planted late fall harvests, to preserve food for the Hungry Gap from March to whenever it warms up enough to produce spring harvests. Another option is fermented storable foods like krauts and kimchi, which take less work than canning.

Ben Falk, author of The Resilient Farm and Homestead. Credit Marcia Falk.

Ben has a very interesting essay on “Native to When? “Invasive” Species, Species-ism, and Optimization” that really got me thinking. Healthy ecosystems include high diversity. Humans are part of the ecosystem (not kings or tyrants, but participants). We intend to manage our gardens and farmland in a responsible right-action kind of way. Not merely sit back admiring the view while elsewhere forests are razed to grow soybeans to feed us and our livestock.

Permaculture views plants and other organisms that have been in place for 10 or 100 or 300 years as not fundamentally more natural or proper than recent arrivals. More important is to consider what the plant does and how it affects the soil and other organisms, and our needs in that space. Plants, animals and other humans are not regarded as evil aliens.

Permaculture seeks inclusion and synergy, with adaptation to challenges that arise. This includes a high level of biodiversity, embracing the legacy of food systems from across the globe. It is not modeled on what the ecosystem looked like on the North American landmass in 1491, or before native peoples managed the land to promote chestnut and oak forests, or before mass migrations of buffalo or any other date.

Some conservationists seem perversely focused on getting back to specific species and ecosystem arrangements from an idealized past time, even if this involves large inputs of fossil fuels, chemicals, labor and money.

We are unwise to adopt a “Nativist War-on-Alien-Invader” ideology. During the time that humans have been moving around the Earth, we have moved around plants and animals (and associated microbes). What year could be chosen as a starting point to determine whether a plant is native or alien? We have potatoes from South America, corn from Mesoamerica, honeybees and earthworms from Europe, apples from Southwest Asia, and much more. Choosing European contact as a starting date is a prejudice that ignores previous centuries of land management.

No living thing is permanent. Plant successions and ecosystem change are natural. Native white pine and goldenrod have forced out numerous species across New England. A human moving a plant from one area to another is no more unnatural than a bird moving seeds. Movement of species is part of biodiversity. It is our responsibility to determine if it would be helpful to redistribute a particular species, considering the needs of other humans and other forms of life.

Ben says (and I strongly agree) “Feeding oneself from a monoculture in Iowa or Mexico while devoting time to spraying Japanese knotweed with toxic chemicals will not get us where we need to be.” Attempting to maintain the world around us in a static condition is simply not an option. We now need to provide for 8 billion humans. Hunting and gathering is no longer viable for most. We cannot live as people did when the Earth was more thinly populated.

Worries about invasive alien species may also indicate a fear that nature will “take over”, and even a belief that humans are separate from nature, perhaps its masters, a very colonial concept.

The urgent ecological and social issues in front of us require unified solutions. Fragmented approaches, including wars on specific plants (and cultures), have rarely, if ever, worked. Species eradication and similar fear-based hyper-controlling and divisive efforts fail even as they line the pockets of Monsanto. Treating all life-forms with respect leads us to more understanding, with prospects for synergy. Why, oh why, do the Acknowledgements list 16 men, while Ben’s wife Erica Koch is one of only four named female family members? Let’s have more biodiversity and inclusion!

Chapter 6 covers adaptive fuel and shelter, well worth reading, but one on which I took few notes. It includes house design and construction, fuel for heating and for power equipment, tips on common mistakes to avoid. Chapter 7 is on resilience and regeneration for the long haul, including intergenerational success, children on the homestead, and more.

The whole book is thoroughly researched, clearly written, and will be tremendously useful to all who use it. For more, see Ben’s website https://www.wholesystemsdesign.com/ 

 

Sweet Corn Almanac – it’s planting time!

Young sweet corn plants in July. And solar panels.
Photo Bridget Aleshire

It’s sweet corn planting time for many of us again and many growers are searching my site for information. Here are quick links to my many sweet corn posts over the years. Inevitably there is some overlap. There’s also a full chapter on sweet corn with all this information in my book Sustainable Market Farming, 2nd edition.

After these links there are seasonal details on planting sweet corn.

  • Success with Planting Sweet Corn: Before you plant, understand the 6 sweet corn genotypes and avoid producing starchy unpleasant-flavored corn caused by planting warring types; soil temperature requirements; amount of seed required; seed spacing and depth; an overview of our corn-growing methods; sweet corn crop requirements; dealing with weeds; transplanting sweet corn; my slideshow on Succession Planting.
  • <iframe src=”https://www.slideshare.net/slideshow/embed_code/key/9pRbveAmBcqtaz” width=”510″ height=”420″frameborder=”0″ marginwidth=”0″ marginheight=”0″ scrolling=”no”style=”border: var(–border-1) solid #CCC; border-width:1px; margin-bottom:5px; max-width:100%;”allowfullscreen></iframe><div style=”margin-bottom:5px”><strong><a href=”https://www.slideshare.net/slideshow/succession-planting-for-continuous-vegetable-harvests-2024-60-mins-pdf/280479965″ title=”succession-planting-for-continuous-vegetable-harvests-2024-60-mins-pdf” target=”_blank”>succession-planting-for-continuous-vegetable-harvests-2024-60-mins-pdf</a></strong>from <strong><a href=”https://www.slideshare.net/SustainableMarketFarming” target=”_blank”>Pam Dawling</a></strong></div>
  • Preparing for Sweet Corn: Crop rotations; planning for succession plantings for a continuous supply; planning preceding cover crops for next year; problems with living mulch; under-sowing for a follow-on cover crop; caring for growing sweet corn; staying on top of weeds; sweet corn growth stages.
Sweet corn growth stages. University of Illinois Extension
  • Growing Great Sweet Corn: More on caring for sweet corn as it grows, including resources; under-sowing sweet corn; succession planting, including a link to my slideshow on this topic; last worthwhile sowing date; fast-maturing sweet corn varieties; sweet corn season extension including transplanting; pests and diseases of sweet corn; harvesting sweet corn.
  • Sweet Corn, Potatoes and Okra: includes my slideshow on succession planting, sowing with an EarthWay seeder; using a wheel hoe between corn rows; hoeing sweet corn; our sowing and harvest start dates; dealing with raccoons, skunks and curious cats.
Our first sweet corn of the season. Bodacious
Photo Pam Dawling
Mature Sweet corn ear.

Skunks

When harvesting our fifth planting of sweet corn (Bodacious, Kandy Korn, Sparkler and Silver Queen), I beefed up our raccoon traps following the suggestions from Joanna Reuter of Chert Hollow Farm, staking the traps down and smearing peanut butter high on the stake in the back of the cage. Well, the first morning I caught a small, very white skunk! I let it out carefully. The next morning I caught the same skunk again. And the third morning, again. The little animal never seemed ferocious or scared, more curious about how to get out. I was more scared than it was, I think! I bet you’re wondering how I released it. Well, I gently laid a large plastic bag over the top and nearside of the trap (just in case. . . ) and gingerly unlatched the door. Then  I used a strong stick to lever up the door a bit, as it is a tight fit. Then I bravely put my foot on top of the trap and pulled the door up by hand. Then I dropped the stick and ran! Later the skunk ambled out. By the third morning I think it was happy with the arrangement. A small can of cat food is a big meal for a small skunk, after all. But I was tired of the game, so I took the traps away. Raccoons don’t seem to like Silver Queen as much as Kandy Korn anyway, maybe because the husks are tighter and harder to rip off. Actually I like Kandy Korn better than Silver Queen too! Meanwhile we are working on setting up a temporary electric fence around the last corn patch, with our new solar charger.

A Way to Garden

For a valuable second opinion, see Margaret Roach (who grows in Massachusetts) in A Way to Garden:

Seasonal tips on planting sweet corn

  • Ensure you have compatible sweet corn varieties, and that none of your seed is older than one year.
  • Plan where your corn will go, and calculate how much seed you need.
  • Use a soil thermometer! Flag its location so you don’t lose track of it! Sweet corn needs warm soil. Catalogs usually indicate the soil temperature (measured at 4″ (10 cm) deep at 9am) recommended for each variety. 50°F (10°C) is the absolute minimum, and applies to treated seed and OP or (su) varieties only. 60°F (15.5°C) is better for most, and 65°F (18°C) or higher is required by some varieties.
  • Corn has no tolerance of frost, but escape from a late spring frost is possible if the seedlings are less than two weeks old and not yet very tall, as the growing point may still be underground. Thus, in a spring that promises to be warm and dry, it is possible to risk an early planting as much as 2-3 weeks before the last frost date. Having some transplant plugs for a back-up helps reduce the risk level.
  • Common phenology signs for the season being advanced enough to sow corn are that white oak leaves are the size of squirrels’ ears and that ragweed is germinating.
  • Sow shallowly 6” (15 cm) apart, in rows you’ll be able to walk between. 30”-36” (76-92 cm) works well. Close the furrows and tamp down the rows with the back of a hoe or rake, or do the “soft shoe shuffle” with your feet. The goal is to get good contact between the seed and the soil.
  • Water as needed.
  • Emergence takes 22 days at 50°F (10°C), 12 days at 59°F (15°C), 7 days at 68°F (20°C), and 4 days at 77°F (25°C).
Our first sweet corn harvest of the year. We like to leave the husks in the field, but it does mean they need good washing before cooking. Pam Dawling

Twin Oaks Community Sustainable Agriculture Pledge

Why we Wrote a Twin Oaks Sustainable Agriculture Pledge

Roma paste tomatoes that suffered drift of herbicide in hot weather.
Photo Twin Oaks Community

One summer, after herbicide drifted in very hot weather into our patch of Roma tomatoes and damaged them noticeably, we gardeners got together with other managers of our other agricultural areas, to find common ground, and avoid causing problems for each other in future. We share our land, and generally our approach to sustainable agriculture. Getting it formally agreed and put into writing was a good idea.

The Twin Oaks Sustainable Agriculture Pledge is a joint policy statement from all the Agricultural Areas about how we farm here, putting in place some kind of standards and a code of practice that we can all adhere to. Each Area may supplement this Pledge with a statement about its own particular practices, which may vary from those of other areas (eg if it becomes feasible to get organically grown grain for Poultry but it’s still prohibitively expensive for Dairy to do the same, then we can have that difference). The goal is not to make us all have to do the same, or make us 100% Organic.

The Principles behind the Twin Oaks Sustainable Agriculture Pledge

  • To produce food of high nutritional quality in sufficient quantity to feed the community as much as possible with our home-produced foods, for as much of the year as possible.
  • To promote and sustain Twin Oaks as a healthy rural community and to foster an ethic of land stewardship among our members.
  • To encourage and enhance healthy ecosystems within the farming system, involving micro organisms, soil flora and fauna, plants and animals.
  • To maintain and increase long-term fertility and conservation of soils.
  • To promote the healthy use, conservation and proper care of water, water resources and all the life it holds.
  • To use, as far as possible, renewable resources in our agricultural systems, and to use them at a rate less than their replacement.
  • To work, as far as possible, within a closed system with regard to organic matter and nutrient elements, maximizing our use and minimizing the waste of what we produce.
  • To work, as far as possible, with materials and substances that can be reused or recycled, either on the farm or elsewhere.
  • To give all livestock conditions of life which allow them to perform basic aspects of their innate behavior.
  • To minimize all forms of pollution and other negative impact on global ecological systems that may result from agricultural practice.
  • To maintain the genetic diversity of the agricultural system and its surroundings, including the protection of plant and wildlife habitats.
  • To allow everyone involved in organic production an adequate return and satisfaction from their work, including a safe working environment.
  • To work to avoid exploiting people and other cultures.
  • To consider the wider social and ecological impact of our farming systems beyond Twin Oaks.
  • To expand knowledge and access to information about sustainable agriculture.
  • To progress towards an entire organic production chain, which is both socially just and ecologically responsible.

The Purpose of the Twin Oaks Sustainable Agriculture Pledge is

  • to be more intentional about our agriculture,
  • to be more transparent (so that anyone can easily know what our agriculture managers might be doing), and more accountable to the membership,
  • to improve our communication about our agricultural practices
  • to improve co-operation between agricultural areas
  • to align practices in our agricultural areas as far as possible

Our Reasons for Doing This

  • The various agricultural areas at TO, including our agricultural income areas and food processing areas, operate independently on a day-to-day basis, although we are all part of TO Community and our collective budgeting system .
  • We all work within the TO precepts listed in our Bylaws, including “C. …assum(ing) responsibility for maintaining the availability of natural resources for present and future generations through ecologically sound production and consumption;” and “G. …striv(ing) to be self-reliant by producing for itself the goods and services necessary for the maintenance of the Community.”
  • Our Statement of Religious Beliefs proclaims, among other things, that we endeavor “To  respect and preserve the natural environment for the use of our own and other species, now and in the future.”
  • Members have an expectation that our farming is loosely organic but we leave it to managers to decide on practices within their area. There is an increased desire in the community for more sustainability.
  • Although our agricultural practices are open to any member who wants to inquire, if we don’t ask, things can happen which most of us don’t support.
  • We hope to increase the discussion in the community about sustainability and agriculture, increase our awareness and intentionality, and move us towards greater sustainability.
  • Sustainable agriculture will require and support a sustainable society. Our challenge is to meet human needs without denying our descendents’ birthright to the natural inheritance of this planet.
  • The costs and fragility of the present system of American agriculture are becoming each day more evident.
  • Sustainable systems are more efficient in their use of energy, biological sources of fertility and pest management, and enhance rural communities and encourage people to remain on the land.
  • A sustainable agriculture that provides nourishing food, protects those who work the land, helps stabilize the earth’s climate, and safeguards soil and water depends on our ability to meet a number of challenges. Organizing to acknowledge and address these challenges together increases our chance of success.

Reasons for Writing our own Pledge Rather than Applying for  USDA Organic Certification

USDA Organic symbol

Our Tofu and Seed Growing businesses are USDA certified, for good reasons, as they sell to the public, and people look for the USDA symbol. But we believe the domestic areas would not benefit from Organic Certification, which involves a lot of paperwork, and some restrictions which would cost us a lot of money.  Additionally, USDA Organic Certification is focused solely on the contents of the product. There are many other aspects of our farming that we care about –

  • locally produced food, minimal food miles,
  • freshness, flavor,
  • fair treatment of workers, worker safety and well-being,
  • carbon footprint, sustainability for the future of the planet,
  • humane treatment of livestock,
  • water, soil and wildlife protection,
  • food safety, nutritional content,
  • social and economic responsibility both locally and globally,
  • efficient use of fuel and other resources,
  • responsible stewardship of the land.

Our concerns are much wider and deeper than just the organic product. Also, we want a method that is in keeping with our trust-based system, not one of outside inspectors.

Sources of Inspiration, and Ideas we Have Drawn From

Certified Naturally Grown logo
  • Certified Naturally Grown which is an organization for farmers following the USDA standards without getting certified. https://www.naturallygrown.org/
  • OMRI (Organic Materials Research Institute) lists products acceptable for use by USDA certified farms. https://www.omri.org/
  • IFOAM (International Federation of Organic Agricultural Movements) https://www.ifoam.bio/ and https://www.ifoam.bio/why-organic
  •  National Agricultural Library Sustainable Agriculture
  • Dancing Rabbit Ecovillage https://www.dancingrabbit.org/ecovillage-life/eco-living/

We have based our Sustainability Pledge initially on the IFOAM (International Federation of Organic Agricultural Movements) principles and standards for organic agriculture.

Each Twin Oaks Managerial Area may define its own sustainable agriculture Practices, based on the shared principles in our Pledge.

Crop protection and support ideas for smaller gardens

Eggplant transplants under a food safe for protection from pests. Pam Dawling

Crop Protection on a Small Scale

I’m more usually writing about large gardens or small farms, and in the case of protecting crops from pests, long rolls of rowcover or netting. But if you have a small number of important plants you could consider using a food safe. These netting structures close like umbrellas for storage, and keep bigger insects out.

The eggplants above have just been moved outdoors after being raised indoors without any netting, when they suffered aphid predation. The food safe fabric wouldn’t keep tiny insects off – it’s like tulle (bridal veiling).  Outdoors it can keep insects and small rodents away, but not whatever creature especially love Swiss chard! This garden had a single chard plant in a bed of tatsoi, pakchoi and Napa cabbage. Those Asian greens stayed protected under the food safes. An exposed row of spring kale was not eaten either. But over a few days Something ate the whole chard plant down to the ground!

Site of the disappeared chard plant. Pam Dawling

The creature ripped through two sides of the food safe (entry and exit?) If you have any idea which creature particularly loves Swiss chard, please leave a comment at the end of this post.

Food safe that failed to save the chard. Pam Dawling
The far side of the ripped food safe. Pam Dawling

Crop Support on a Fairly Small Scale

Raspberry Trellis suiting for fall fruiting. Pam Dawling

In the same garden is this trellis for restraining raspberries in a way that can be easily dismantled to mow for fall fruiting. Fall raspberries fruit on the primocanes, the ones that grow that spring. There are particular varieties developed for fall fruiting, and some that can be used either for summer or fall fruiting, depending how you prune them. They are a great way to extend the fruit season, and their pruning is simplicity itself! Roll up the cords or wires. Mow the canes down after fruiting, and weed. In early spring, thin the canes to 2″ apart, install and tension the wires or cords between the posts.

The same system can be used for summer raspberries, but you’ll have to deal with the wires while pruning, as in other trellis systems.

This trellis uses 4″ x 4″ posts with crosspieces at 1.5′, 3′ and 5′. They have holes drilled towards the ends and paracord threaded through.

Raspberry trellis with paracord threaded through the arms and tied at one end. Pam Dawling

At the far end the cords are tensioned using plastic “camjam” cord tighteners. You could alternatively just pull and tie them off for the season. On a larger scale using wire you could use something from the fencing supplies.

Raspberry trellis paracord tensioned with cam locks. Pam Dawling

Unusual Crop for the Month: Plant Peanuts in May

Tennessee Red Valencia peanut.
Photo Southern Exposure Seed Exchange.

Peanuts are an interesting and rewarding crop to grow on a small scale. Growers who offer farm tours will enjoy showing how the flowers “peg down” to develop the nuts under the soil, those concerned about local food security will appreciate peanuts as a source of locally grown protein and oil; and everyone can enjoy the challenge of trying a new crop.

Peanut Crop Requirements

Peanuts need a frost-free period of at least 110 days. Virginia type peanuts require 2,520–2,570 growing degree days (GDDs) above a base of 57°F (14°C). Consult Weatherspark.com to make sure you have enough frost-free days. One way of tracking GDDs is on the Climate Smart Farming Growing Degree Day Calculator website from Cornell, which can show you the season to date and the 6-day forecast, as well as the 15-year average and the 30-year “normal” for your location.

Peanuts like warm or hot conditions, with adequate but not excessive water. If you can provide these conditions, as well as relatively light, loose, free-draining soil and attention to controlling weeds, then I encourage you to give peanuts a try. We plant our peanuts in a raised bed, which helps provide looser soil. They can be hard to lift from heavy soil.

Carolina Black peanut. Photo by Southern Exposure Seed Exchange.

We get our seed peanuts from Southern Exposure Seed Exchange. Twenty-eight grams will plant about 25′ (7.6 m). Prepare a bed or row ahead of time. You can warm the soil by covering it with rowcover or plastic for 3–7 days before planting. The pH should be 5–6, and if calcium levels are at all low, add gypsum — the start of blooming is the latest time you can effectively do this. Calcium deficiency results in unfilled pods and low yields (see the “Peanut Production Practices” chapter in the annual Peanut Information publication from NCSU Extension for more on soil nutrient requirements). The NCSU website also has an interesting “Peanut Risk Tool and Field Log.”

Those thinking of pre-sprouting or transplanting peanuts should be alerted to a peculiarity of the crop: they do not germinate well without soil. Exactly what peanuts need from the soil remains a bit of a mystery. So if you want your peanuts to get an early start, don’t try to sow them in a soilless mix, or in paper towels or a glass jar. To successfully transplant peanuts, use actual soil or a sand/compost/soil mix.

Peanut Varieties

Carwile’s Virginia peanut. Photo by Raddysh Acorn for Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

If you have a relatively short growing season, I recommend starting with the 110-day variety  Tennessee Red Valencia. It’s easy to grow, very productive and has large sweet kernels, 2–5 per shell. If you don’t want to hill, this variety is said to be the most accepting of this. Another 110-day variety is the unusual Carolina Black, an heirloom with a black skin. It’s sweet-tasting and slightly larger than the Spanish varieties. Virginia Jumbo needs 120 days, produces large rich-flavored kernels, 2 per shell, and prefers loose soil. Whopper also needs 120 days, and its claim to fame is obvious. Carwile’s Virginia is a 130-day heirloom variety with superior flavor and good drought resistance (though only average disease resistance). MorningChores.com has an excellent beginner description of seven pests and two diseases. Peanuts are prone to the same diseases as beans, with bacterial wilt being especially damaging. Sclerotinia blight is more prevalent at high pH.

Morning Chores’ Beginners Guide to Growing Peanuts

Sowing Peanuts

Sow around the last frost date. The soil temperature should be 65°F (18°C) at noon, at a 4″ (10 cm) depth, for 3 consecutive days. For us that’s late April. May is safer. Count back from your first frost date to find your last sowing date. The beginning of June is about the latest I’d want to try here. Shell the nuts (don’t split the kernels into halves) and sow 2″ (5 cm) deep, 12″ (30 cm) apart, in rows 30″–36″ (76–90 cm) apart. Inoculating the seeds with Rhizobium bacteria can produce enough nitrogen in root nodules to sustain the crop, as with other legumes. Active nodules are pink or red inside.

The seedlings may be slow to emerge, so preemptive weeding may be needed. If you have not interplanted, you could try pre-emergence flame-weeding. Peanuts are native to an area subject to periodic drought and fire, and have evolved to withstand heat. You can flame them soon after emergence, as the growing point is still in the soil. Older peanut plants may be damaged and then recover. The seedlings look somewhat like peas or clover. Because they grow slowly for the first 40 days, they will not thrive if you lose them in weeds (guess how I know?). Flaming or careful hoeing as soon as the peanuts emerge will effectively deal with broadleaf weeds. Grasses are not killed by flaming.

Small peanut plant . Pinterest photo

Peanut Cultivation 

Once the seedlings are 12″ (30 cm) tall, you can hill them up, as you would potatoes, to increase yields. We skip this step —the peanuts have no difficulty pegging in the loose soil of our raised beds. We’ve grown Virginia Jumbo and Carwiles without hilling and got plenty of peanuts. But if you are not interplanting and have a good hiller attachment on a tiller or wheel hoe (or a visiting school group, perhaps), then hilling can deal with weeds and provide more loose soil for the nuts to develop in. Avoid disturbing the soil after pegging has begun.

Watering Peanuts

There are two periods when adequate watering is vital. The first is at planting, to ensure germination. The second is from 50 days after planting, when pegs start to enter the soil, until 2 weeks before harvest. This is the time when the pods are filling. Stop watering 10–14 days before harvest, to help the peanuts dry for storage.

Harvesting and Drying Peanuts

You can wait for a light frost to kill the tops, or you can simply harvest when enough peanuts are mature. You’ll have to dig some up and open them to see. The University of Florida has a helpful publication, “Methods to Evaluate Peanut Maturity for Optimal Seed Quality and Yield.” If the fall is wet, it might be best to pull or dig the plants early, when the seed is almost ripe, and dry them indoors. This will minimize losses from rotting.

Varying pod sizes on a peanut plant. Removal of all pods is critical, from match heads to full-size pods.
Credit: Ethan Carter, UF/IFAS

In dry light soil, you can just pull the plant, and the peanuts will come up attached to the stems. Then you can bunch and hang them in an airy barn. Mice really love peanuts and will run off with them and stash them at a phenomenal rate, so be sure to set traps or provide a good cat. If the soil was dry and loose enough for you to pull the plant, the nuts will likely be relatively clean, so you can dry (and cure) them on the vine, which takes up to 3 weeks.

In heavier soils, dig the plants up lightly — no need to go deep. You can pull the nuts off the stems by hand and gather loose ones from the soil. For small-scale production, you can strip peanuts off the vines by dragging the plants through a V-shaped piece of equipment, from the far side towards yourself, letting peanuts collect in a tote.

If needed, wash the peanuts, spreading the loose ones out on trays to dry. Mold is an enemy when drying: moldy peanuts contain toxic aflatoxin, so get them dried quickly. Set up fans indoors, or dry the peanuts outdoors in the sun: 3–7 days is a likely amount of time. You could spread the peanuts on screens on wheelbarrows. Just wheel the barrow from place to place to catch the sun, and under cover if rain threatens. A second screen inverted over the first keeps mice away. This system works for very small-scale production. You could make mouse-proof lidded trays from rat wire and dry the peanuts on greenhouse benches, with fans.

Curing and Storing Peanuts

If vine-drying, you can also cure the peanuts on the vine, as described above. Otherwise pick the good nuts off the plants once they have dried and cure them in the sun for a few days. Peanuts will cure to a storable state in 2–3 weeks indoors at ambient temperatures or 6 days in a solar dryer of the type described in my book. It’s important not to heat the nuts higher than 85°F (29°C). Drying too fast causes skin slippage and kernel splitting. To find out when peanuts have finished curing, taste some. If they still have the watery crunch of water chestnuts, they are not ready; once they taste good, they’re cured. For long-term storage, a sealed container in a freezer works well. They need to be kept very dry. Like most seeds, peanuts are very good at drawing moisture from the air.

Boiled Peanuts
Photo https://www.daringgourmet.com/boiled-peanuts/

Boiling Peanuts

Immediately after harvest, you can eat all or some of your bounty, without drying or curing. These are a big hit! Here’s how we cook them for a party: fill a large pot two-thirds full of water, add 2 handfuls of salt and enough peanuts (in their shells) to fill the pot, but still have enough room to move. Cook for 5 whole hours, strain, and serve.

Roasting Peanuts

To roast peanuts, spread them shelled or unshelled in a single layer and cook at 350°F (175°C) for 20–25 minutes in the shell, or 15–20 minutes shelled.

Read More

This post is adapted from a chapter in my second edition of Sustainable Market Farming. The chapter in that book also includes peanut history, information on growing peanuts in a hoophouse, interplanting lettuce and peanuts, solar drying them, and saving seed.

Tree Leaves as Fodder and Hay

Lynbreck Croft Silvopasture.

I follow the news from Sandra and Lynn at Lynbreck Croft  in the Cairngorms National Park of Scotland. They have been guardians of that 150 acres since 2016, restoring the degraded landscape. They grow vegetables, raise long-haired Highland cattle, native rare-breed pigs, honeybees and egg-laying hens. They butcher their own livestock, sell food super-locally, teach courses on the croft, and provide tours by arrangement.  They have planted nearly 30,000 trees and installed fencing to keep the land in good heart.

I have reviewed their book Our Wild Farming Life.

Cover image of Our Wild Farming LIfe book.Chelsea Green Publishers

They are members of the UK Agricology Tree Fodder Hub, a group promoting using shrubs and trees as supplementary livestock feed. This was once an important component of animal husbandry, either browsed fresh or harvested and fed dried (“tree hay”) in winter. There is an increasing interest in this practice as it is sustainable, perennial, no-till, and answers a need for those farming in regions with short summers wanting a low-input system that maintains animal health and welfare.

Trees in the animals’ landscape provide not just browse but also shade and shelter. The animals are able to select the varieties and species best suited to their nutritional and medicinal needs and personal preferences.

The Hub includes research into usefulness of various trees, their role in moderating climate change impacts; building soil health; sustaining insect, amphibian, reptile, fungal and bird life; and a link to TreeFEED: Trees for Forage: Short term plantings to enhance livestock production, health and resilience. (Trials of the TreeFEED project carried out in Cornwall by Farm Carbon Toolkit.)Cattle browsing for feed.

Agricology’s Tree Fodder Technical Guide incorporates in its 36 pages a wide range of research and farmer stories, videos, blogs, offering opportunities to learn from other farmers, explore different approaches and pick up practical suggestions.

“Findings & recommendations

  • Tree fodder provides supplementary nutrition, minerals, and medicinal compounds, supporting livestock health and resilience, especially during dry seasons or winter months. ​

  • Domesticated animals naturally browse on trees and shrubs, with goats and sheep showing higher intake due to their ability to digest anti-nutritional factors. ​

  • Tree fodder is comparable to grasses and forbs in macronutrients and can be superior in protein, fat, and sugar content. ​

  • Tree fodder is a stable source of minerals like zinc, cobalt, selenium, and calcium, which vary by species, location, and season. ​

  • Condensed tannins and salicylic compounds in tree fodder can provide health benefits, such as reducing methane emissions, managing intestinal parasites, and treating inflammation and pain. ​

  • Direct browsing, cut-and-drop feeding, tree hay, and silage are effective ways to provide tree fodder. ​ Tree hay is highly palatable and can be stored for winter use. ​

  • Pollarding and shredding are effective methods for harvesting tree fodder. ​ Proper timing and storage are crucial for preserving nutritional value. ​

  • Case studies: Farmers Tim Downes and Lynn Cassells and Sandra Baer [of Lynbreck Croft] have successfully integrated tree fodder into their systems, improving livestock health, fertility, and resilience while reducing reliance on chemical treatments. ​

  • Recommendations: Incorporate diverse tree species for nutrition, shade, and shelter; manage trees for optimal growth and accessibility; and explore tree fodder as a sustainable supplement to traditional feed.”

Drying tree hay at Lynbreck Croft

Climate Change in Virginia Report

 

The First Virginia Climate Assessment

We gardeners and farmers are experiencing the climate changing. We need to pay attention and reduce the risks to our land, crops, livestock, lifestyle and livelihood. We also need to be resilient and adapt our farming and gardening to realities we face. This publication is a clear help in doing that. While it’s written for Virginia, it can be useful to those in neighboring states. Those in other states can look for (ask for or work for!) a similar publication for their state.

We are all vulnerable to climate change, either directly or by secondary effects such as wildfires, vector-borne diseases, road closures, power blackouts and failures of our aging infrastructure. Farmers can lose profits (income) or even their entire livelihood.

The First Virginia Climate Assessment

The First Virginia Climate Assessment was published in November 2025 at George Mason University. It includes sections on Climate Variability, Recent History, Projected Changes, Temperature, Precipitation, Sea Level, Heat Risk, Flood Risk, Drought Risk and Cascading And Compound Effects.

Virginia has 27 different ecoregions and 6 climate divisions: coast, plains, mountains. Since Thomas Jefferson started his weather journal at Monticello in 1776, we have experienced about 4.5°C or 8°F of warming. Virginia has become warmer and wetter overall, remembering that the averages include a range of specific changes, not simply a gentle shift upwards of a few degrees or fractions of an inch.

Monticello Then and Now Temperature Comparison from the First Virginia Climate Assessment:

Projected Changes, quoting from the First Virginia Climate Assessment:

  1. “Virginia’s climate is shaped by weather patterns stemming from higher and lower latitudes, while regional variation reflects topography and coastal proximity (high confidence).
  2. The Virginia climate has become warmer (very high confidence) and wetter (medium confidence) in recent decades, with greater precipitation extremes (high confidence) and more frequent tidal flooding (very high confidence) along the Atlantic coast.
  3. Climate projections indicate continued warming (very high confidence) and wetting (medium confidence) for Virginia through the middle to late 21st century, with chronic tidal flooding along the Atlantic coast (very high confidence).”

This 98 page science-based work includes a glossary of the unusual words, and was published with support from support from the late Honorable US Representative Gerry Connolly, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), and former Virginia Climate Center Project Manager Amanda O’Connor. It is thoroughly down-to-earth and provides a collection of evidence-based take-home messages. By incorporating information from a range of experts in the field, and including statements as to their level of confidence in their findings, the authors ensure we are getting a realistic picture of what the future holds.

Virginia Temperature 

Large temperature changes and increasing extreme heat events are bringing greater health risks, labor disruptions, crop and livestock stresses. The adverse effects are found in the state’s major economic outputs, especially crop production and livestock.

In Virginia, we are experiencing larger temperature swings throughout the year. In January 2024, within a stretch of 11 days, Charlottesville experienced a daytime high of 79°F (26°C) and a daytime high of 28°F (-2°C), the largest January range on record.

With higher humidity in hot weather, outdoor workers have a harder time cooling themselves, as sweat cannot evaporate off the skin. We are losing cold days faster than we are going hot days, but the effect is not as benign as that might sound. Conditions have become more erratic: hot days followed by much colder days. On April 20/21, 2026, we had a real frost (27°F/-2.7°C). We’ve been having hotter-than-usual weather, including 90°F/32°C. This variability and range is hard on crops. Crops germinate, make fast growth, and then get zapped or fried.

Quote from the Virginia Climate Assessment on Temperature

  1. “In Virginia, large seasonal and daily variations imply that the most prominent temperature effects will be shifts in extremes (high confidence).
  2. Observations indicate that while there is an overall increase in temperatures across the Commonwealth, the coldest days are warming faster than the warmest days (high confidence).
  3. Global climate projections display a robust, statistically significant warming signal of mean and extreme temperatures in Virginia across a wide range of emissions scenarios (high confidence).”
Observed and Projected Temperature Change from Virginia Climate Center at George Mason University

Virginia Rainfall

In recent years, Virginia has had both high-impact rainfall and extended periods of drought, combined with windier conditions that can lead to wildfires.

Virginia is experiencing wetter conditions overall, with more frequent and intense rain/snow events. Although the number of days with rain in both spring and fall are remaining steady, the amount of rain is increasing. This increases the likelihood of flash flooding, and of saturated soil, reducing crop yields, perhaps increasing crop diseases and pest outbreaks, and disrupting transportation. Summer and winter tend to be drier seasons, but they, too, are becoming wetter via flash droughts – quick onset droughts that can end very suddenly.

Half of Virginia’s rural counties face water shortages that jeopardize $472 million in crop production. Data centers are a new feature that also require large amounts of water. Who will get first rights?

Quote from the Virginia Climate Assessment on Precipitation

  1. “Virginia’s precipitation patterns reflect a complex interplay of seasonal cycles, diverse storm mechanisms, climate pattern variability, and regional topography (high confidence).
  2. Virginia is experiencing wetter conditions overall, with more frequent and intense precipitation events (medium confidence).
  3. Spring and fall are getting wetter, particularly in coastal regions, while summers are becoming wetter in the eastern Chesapeake Bay watershed (high confidence).”

Here’s the information-rich Office of Flood Resilience Planning.

Virginia Sea-Level Rise

Sea-level rise and sinking coastal land are leading to “sunny day flooding…” The sea is rising regardless of recent rain. Because of a combination of land erosion and rising waters, Virginia is experiencing a faster sea level rise than the average global rate. This affects not just coastal regions, but far inland. Salinity (salt levels) are rising in the York River and migrating inland. (I live and farm in the York watershed, which flows into the Chesapeake Bay.) https://www.virginiaplaces.org/watersheds/3wsheds.html

Virginia Watersheds and Divides. Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation

Quote from the Virginia Climate Assessment on Sea Level Rise

  1. “Sea level has been rising in Virginia due to a combination of global sea level rise (very high confidence), land subsidence (very high confidence), and influences from oceanic and atmospheric variability (moderate confidence).
  2. Future projections indicate that sea level rise will accelerate across Virginia coasts (high confidence), causing acceleration in coastal flooding (very high confidence).
  3. The impacts of sea level rise lead to changes in Virginia’s ecosystems and shorelines (high confidence), habitat conversion (high confidence), groundwater salinization (high confidence), and erosion (high confidence)”

Virginia Climate Equity

Cities such as Richmond have shown uneven exposures to hazards like heat, and resulting neighborhood-level vulnerabilities leading to the need for tools like the Climate Equity Index to address such issues. The key climate-related risk here is referred to as “Economic exposure”. Social vulnerability to climate change in Virginia is shaped by a combination of geographic exposure, socioeconomic disparities, and historical inequities. In Norfolk (and elsewhere) , historical differences have led to disproportionate climate impacts on low-income and marginalized communities, limiting access to resilient infrastructure and adaptation resources.

Impacts and Implications for Virginia

There is much more information in the report, including the impacts of the various risks. Download the publication yourself to read more. We all need to know this information and think about how to prepare ourselves and our farms for what is coming over the horizon. This publication is invaluable for discussion groups, home-schooling and individual research for projects.

Other Virginia Climate Change Resources

For those who prefer to listen than to read, WHRO Public Media has a one-hour story by Virginia Hafner: Virginia’s first Climate Assessment highlights how conditions are changing across the state

and Radio IQ Meteorologist Nick Gilmore provides the CommonWx newsletter, including The first Virginia Climate Assessment: a warmer and wetter Commonwealth

The Future for Virginia Climate Assessment

This first Climate Assessment is planned to be followed by others in the future, that will build on this foundation by adding finer-scale geographic detail; expanding coverage of climate impacts on agriculture, public health, transportation, ecosystems; and giving a more comprehensive review of disasters such as wildfires and landslides, all while ensuring relevance and applicability. This way, Virginia can prepare for and respond to the challenges (and even the opportunities) presented by a changing climate.

Exposure to various risks is only one component of vulnerability; later Assessments will address the other components: sensitivity and adaptive capacity.

Virginia is working to become more resilient to climate change, including the recent establishment of the Virginia Office of Resilience, and the enormous efforts led by community groups, universities, and non-profits across the Commonwealth. Together, we work to ensure all Virginians, present and future, can mutually flourish alongside the rich natural resources for generations to come

The recommended citation

for the Assessment is Ruess, P.J., Kinter, J., Ferreira, C.M., Ortiz, L.E., Ellis, A.W., Ermagun, A., Ezer, T., Fox, A. Klinger, B., Maggioni, V., Peterson, T., Allen, M., Burls, N.J., Cash, B., Clower, T.L, Costadone, L., Dollan, I.J., González-Dueñas, C., Henneman, R.F., Hoffman, J.D., Larson, M., Lindquist, H., Mitcham, M.B., Mitchell, M., de Lima, A.d.S, Tong, D., Ugliano, A., Whitehead, J. (2025). The First Virginia Climate Assessment. https://www.vaclimate.gmu.edu/virginia-climate-assessment

Creative Commons license

 

How to string-weave tomatoes

String-weaving has kept these tall tomatoes in good order. Photo Nina Gentle

What is string-weaving?

String-weaving (also known as Florida string weaving and basket-weaving) is an easy way to support lots of tomato plants. If you have long rows, this method is ideal. All you need is a simple handmade tool, stakes and twine. All you need to store over the winter are the stakes. No bulky cages or heavy cattle panels or bulky rolls of wire mesh. This system also works for growing peppers and peas. We have used it for large determinates (Roma), heirloom tomatoes, and indeterminates.

ATTRA’s very useful publication, Organic Tomato Production

The ATTRA publication Organic Tomato Production includes a comparison of different tomato training and support systems. According to ATTRA, string-weaving comes equal-best or second best in almost all categories: earliness, fruit size, yield, quality, protection from sunburn and pest control. It is worst as far as labor cost, although the labor is spread out through the season, so it doesn’t seem so bad. We like the string weaving system for indeterminate varieties, large determinates (Roma), and even small determinates, peppers and peas.

If earliness, large fruit size, and good pest control are important factors for you, choose a high wire trellis between posts, and strings dropped down to wind each plant stem around, and prune out suckers. Trellising with a high wire comes out best for earliness, fruit size and pest control (but worst for cracking, and thus not so good for marketable yield).

For high yield and protection from sunscald and cracking, use cages. Cages are best for marketable yield, but caged tomatoes do poorly on earliness and fruit size. People who only grow relatively few plants could choose this method. Off-season storage can be an issue, as well as the labor to set out the cages.

The cheapest support system is no support at all – letting the plants sprawl on the ground. But the fruit quality and quantity is poor, (pests, rotting, cracking and sunburn reduce potential yields). Plus you have to bend down all the time to harvest!

Another good resource is Training Systems and Pruning in Organic Tomato Production eOrganic, Bonnie Cox, Oregon Tilth, 2015. It’s hard to find online. If the link here stops working, you could try the Internet Archive Wayback Machine. The helpful people at ATTRA found it for me.

Planting tomatoes for string-weaving

For the string weaving method, we set one post after every 2 plants along the row, with the plants 2′ apart along the row.

A young row of tomatoes showing string-weaving.
Photo Wren Vile

Although it might not seem like it on planting day, it’s usually easier to put stakes in soon after planting, while the soil is still soft and everyone remembers where the drip tape is under the mulch, (and which side the roots are, if you planted in diagonal trenches). We use 6′ (1.8 m) steel T-posts, with one T-post after every two plants along the row. Our rows can be up to 150′ (45 m) long without any special bracing at the ends. Some people put an extra stake at an angle tied to the end stakes as a brace.

 Tools for string weaving

Our string-weaving tools. A fabric glove is needed too. Photo Pam Dawling

We use a stringing tool made from a 2′ (30 cm) length of an old canoe paddle with a hole drilled near each end. Any comfortable rounded length of wood will do. Thread the twine through one hole and back out the other; the twine is not tied to the tool but moves through it freely the whole time. A length of plastic pipe could be used if you prefer (pipe doesn’t need holes drilled through, as the twine can be threaded through the pipe).

The tool functions as an extension of the worker’s arm, to get the twine over tall stakes, and you can give it a quarter turn to pull the string tight. (Pulling twine tight against your hand for several hours can cut through the skin.) For maximum efficiency, keep the tool in your hand all the time.

String-weaving also known as Stake-and-Weave, Diagram by Lewis Jett, University of West Virginia

Our variation on string-weaving looks quite like the drawing above. We have a couple of tweaks that make string-weaving work even better. Our first trick is to park the bale of twine in a bucket at the beginning of the row and leave it there. No need to lug it with you! (We have long rows!)  Putting the bale of twine in a bucket makes it easy to carry and provides a space to store scissors and gloves. Stand between the working end of the twine and the slack being pulled out of the bucket – get yourself inside the loop when you start, to avoid tangles. That is, the spare twine will be running out behind you as you work the first side of the row. You’ll use it for the return journey.

Tomato string-weaving step-by-step

  1. When the plants are 1′ (30cm) tall, tie the twine onto an end stake, about 8-10″ (20-25 cm) above the ground.

    Starting the first round of string-weaving. Note the bucket of twine, the working end of the twine tied to the post and the line of loose twine trailing along behind the weaver.
    Pam Dawling
  2. Keep the working length of twine between you and the plants and go to the next stake, sweeping the twine in front of two plants.

    The twine has passed two plants and wound round the next stake. Pam Dawling
  3. Cross in front of the stake. Use the tool as an extension of your arm, wrap the twine around the back of the stake, pull it tight, and twist the tool to help tighten it.

    String weaving tomatoes using the tool as an extension of the arm, to get the twine around the post.
    Use the non-tool hand to keep the tension on the first winding.  Credit Kathryn Simmons
  4. Keeping the tension you have created, using the thumb or forefinger of your other (non-tool-holding) hand on the crossover to keep it tight, loop the twine around the stake again, going a tiny bit lower so that the second loop crosses over the first and locks it in position so that if you let go, or later on a groundhog chews through your twine, the whole row doesn’t slacken.

    Close-up of the twine crossover on the second wrap round the post.
    Photo Kathryn Simmons
  5. Continue along the row to the end, wrapping twice around each stake, then flip the twine over the end post and walk round to the other side of the row.

    String-weaving on the second side. Note that the twine is at the same level as the first side. Photo Kathryn Simmons
  1. Weave back along the other side of the same row, putting another row of twine at the same level as on the first side. You will need to flip the twine that was behind you on the first side, over to your new working side as you need it. You are creating two “walls” of twine with the plants in the middle. You’ll see that with our method, you never actually wrap twine around a tomato plant, so there is never any injury from tight twine.

    The final step of the string-weaving round is to tie the twine back on the first post and cut the twine. Photo Kathryn Simmons
  2. Once you reach the end, tie off the twine on the stake you started at. You will be back by the twine bucket where you left the scissors! Cut the twine free.
  3. About once a week, as the plants grow, add a round of twine every 8″ (20 cm) up the stakes until you reach the top 2 months later.

    About a week later the plants will have grown tall enough to need another round of string-weaving.
    Photo Kathryn SImmons
  4. At the end of the season, pull up the plants, cut the twine each side of each post, and pull it out, then remove the stakes and compost the tomato plants. See this post.

Laughing Stalk Farm in Missouri has posted a video of a string-weaving variation on YouTube. www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1S3mVaOCLI. They have the bale of twine spooling off a stand at the beginning of the row, and they weave the twine between plants, and then around the stakes.

Pests of the Month in April: Garlic bloat nematodes

Garlic bulb cut horizontally to test maturity (almost!)
Photo Wren Vile

This is the last of my monthly series on pests. Scroll down for links to the others and to each of my ten monthly series.

I’ll start with a few seasonal tips, then get to details of the garlic bloat nematode

  • Aphids, see Posts in February and November
  • Cabbage moths, see my December post. In mid-April we finish filling gaps in broccoli & cabbage plot, and plant alyssum every 6 ft in center of beds. Alyssum is a wonderful flower for attracting beneficial insects. Link to Good Seed Co. post on decoy butterflies: https://goodseedco.net/blog/posts/cabbage-butterfly-decoy. Encourage paper wasps, they will haul away lots of caterpillars! Use Bt against caterpillars. The Action Threshold is an average of 1 cabbage looper, 1.5 imported cabbageworms, 3 army worms or 5 diamondback moth larvae per 10 brassica plants.
  • Keep eggplant above 55°F and netted against flea beetles.
  • Colorado Potato Beetles Deal with potato beetles with Spinosad [or Neem] once larvae are seen, if >50 adults/50 plants or >200 larvae/100 plants. Spinosad: Shake well, 1-4 Tbsp/gall (1fl.oz=2Tbsp=30ml.) Repeat in 6 days. See this June post on monitoring for CPB. Also see this post on potato pests and diseases from June 2020

Special Topic for April:

Garlic Pest Field Notebook. University of Maine Cooperative Extension, 2022

Garlic stem and bulb (bloat) nematode (Ditylenchus dipsaci)

As garlic is growing, be on the alert for bloat nematodes. Anytime your garlic grows poorly and you can’t tell why, send a sample with the soil it’s growing in to your Extension Service to be tested for nematodes. Symptoms of garlic bloat nematode are similar to some other pathogenic organisms, such as bulb mites or Fusarium, so get an accurate diagnosis and take the appropriate management steps.

Nematode infestations show up as stunted, distorted, bloated, spongy leaves and bulbs, perhaps with brown or yellow spots. Cloves may turn soft and brown. Top growth yellows and dies prematurely and may separate from the root system. Pull up a suspicious plant and the roots may stay in the ground. Cracking may be seen around the basal plate later in the season. Infested bulbs are light in weight, shriveled, soft and brown.

Large numbers of nematodes (microscopic worms) can congregate as a visible woolly mass between wrapper layers. Weakened plants are more vulnerable to other pests and diseases. These nematodes can overwinter in the soil and can attack any allium, as well as other bulbs, celery, parsley, nightshades, and some varieties of peas and lettuce. Even low populations (less than 10 nematodes per 0.5 quart/liter of soil) have been recorded as causing significant crop loss.

Garlic infested with bloat nematodes. Eric Sideman

The lifecycle can take as little as 3 weeks in favorable conditions – this pest is favored in cool damp conditions. The eggs hatch in the soil, and when the soil is damp, the fourth and final juvenile stages swim to the surface and enter the garlic through wounds, leaf axils and even stomata. Nematodes at this stage can survive years in dead plant matter. The final molt occurs inside the plant tissue, and the adults emerge to reproduce. An adult female nematode can lay 500 eggs.

The problem is usually spread by infested seed, so if you suspect nematodes, carefully do the hot water pre-plant seed treatment in future. See Pre-plant seed garlic treatments against diseases and pests (including garlic bloat nematode)

Garlic bloat nematode infestation. UMass Extension Vegetable Fact Sheet

Destroy known infested bulbs (don’t make a cull pile that can spread the nematodes through rain runoff later – they move in a film of water). Do not replant any cloves, even from bulbs with no visible symptoms, if there was any infestation in the crop. Nematodes can survive winter and very dry conditions, in the plant or free in the soil.

Use a 4-year rotation away from all susceptible crops. Practice very careful sanitation and consider biofumigation with mustard or sorghum-sudan cover crops ahead of the garlic planting season. Be careful not to move infested soil to clean areas: this is the main way of spreading infestation (other than introducing infested cloves). Nematodes cannot move far under their own steam.

Garlic beds in April. Keep them healthy! Photo Kathryn Simmons

 

Resources on garlic and bloat nematodes

eOrganic Insect management in Organic Farming Systems has a long list of dozens of short publications, including specific ones for nematodes, as well as scouting and farmscaping.

ATTRA Organic Production of Garlic, Onions, and Other Alliums includes the use of tarping, solarization and anaerobic soil disinfestation as ways to reduce pest problems next year, and about pests such leaf miners.

Bloat Nematode on Garlic. Cornell University College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, 2015. https://rvpadmin.cce.cornell.edu/uploads/doc_325.pdf

Garlic Seed Foundation.

Grey Duck Garlic. The Complete and Easy Guide to Growing Gorgeous Giant Garlic from Seed. greyduckgarlic.com

Johnson, S. B., & Fuller, D. Garlic Pest Field Notebook. University of Maine Cooperative Extension, 2022. extension.umaine.edu/agriculture/wp-content/uploads/sites/14/2022/02/Garlic-Field-Guide-updated-02.22.pdf

Madeiras, Angela. Garlic Bloat Nematode. UMass Extension Vegetable Fact Sheet, 2015.

Poromarto, S. H., et al. Decrease in Population of Ditylenchus dipsaci in Garlic Cultivation with the Application of Mycorrhizae and Organic Fertilizers. IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science, 1114(1), 012062, 2022. https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1755-1315/1114/1/012062

Sideman, E. Garlic Bloat Nematode. Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners, 2012. mofga.org/resources/garlic/garlic-bloat-nematode/

 

Round up of Pests every Month of the year:

  • May Cucumber beetles and squash bugs
  • June Mexican bean beetles and harlequin bugs and tips on many more seasonal pests
  • July Corn earworm, cutworm and tomato hornworms
  • August Grasshoppers, brown marmorated stink bugs, and Japanese beetles, with tips on harlequin bugs, cutworms and spider mites
  • September Brassica caterpillars, blister beetles and allium leaf miners
  • October Squash bugs, squash vine borers, spinach webworms, squirrels and groundhogs
  • November Aphids and slugs
  • December A mystery cocoon, buck moth, various brassica caterpillars, beet webworms, grasshoppers and crickets.
  • January Vegetable weevil larvae in the hoophouse
  • February Oils and soaps for aphid control
  • March Allium leaf miners and asparagus beetles
  • April (this one!)

Summary of my monthly series

 My next monthly series

Unusual crops for the month – leave a comment with your ideas.

The Best Vegetable Cultivars to Grow in Our Area

VPM Community Garden Gathering

Virginia Home Grown’s Community Garden Gathering

Virginia Public Media (VPM )’s Virginia Home Grown, Dorey Park Farmers Market and Virginia State University partnered to host a day of education and fellowship for community garden enthusiasts. Everyone from beginners to established garden organizers learned from a variety of experts throughout the day. Sessions covered how to engage with your local communities, ways to manage volunteers, grant writing, ways to earn legal business designations for community gardens and more.

Partners in organizing the Community Gardening Gathering

I gave a presentation at this event, which was held on February 21, 2026, 8:30 am – 4:00 pm, at the delightful Dorey Park Recreation Center, 2999 Darbytown Road, Henrico, VA 23231

Virginia Home Grown

Virginia Home Grown (VHG) is one of VPM’s longest-running TV shows and is celebrating its 25th year. The show’s mission is to enrich growers and gardeners of all levels by connecting to new voices and fresh ideas, to highlight the unique richness of gardens and natural ecosystems throughout Virginia and serve as a resource for our community. The show introduces audiences to experts and plant enthusiasts from across Virginia by offering how-to demos and video visits to gardens, farms and growing sites. VHG believes gardening is for everyone and that we’re all growing and learning together.

Storytelling is at the heart of VPM’s work. They strive to produce relevant, high-quality, multi-platform content in television, radio, podcasts, and digital media that is rooted in Virginia, and reflective of the diverse communities we serve. VPM programming focuses on four key genres: News, History, Arts & Culture, and Science. As a PBS member station and NPR affiliate based in Virginia, VPM produces a mix of local and national content.

Peggy Singlemann in the control room at VPM in Richmond, where her show Virginia Home Grown is produced. Visit PBS.org/Show/Virginia-Home-Grown to watch a selection of full episodes for free. Photo by Fred + Elliott

The Community Garden Gathering

“The day was a celebration of community gardening. VPM’s response to a VHG viewer’s question asking where to learn how to start a community garden was not one of words, but one of action by organizing the Community Garden Gathering,” said Virginia Home Grown host Peggy Singlemann. After doing some research, the VHG team found that there were ample resources throughout the region, but there weren’t any events nearby that were focused on community gardens. Topics for the event were formed from a survey that was sent last year, asking people to rank which topics were most important to them.

Amy Rose Foll running a seed swap at the Community Garden Gathering. VPM Photo

Over 70 participants attended the event that featured several keynote speakers sharing their expertise on gardening, as well as breakout sessions where folks were able to gain additional insights.

Astonished happy winner of the raffle for my book Sustainable Market Farming 2nd Edition at the Community Garden Gathering. VPM photo

Peggy continued, “Although the gathering was filled with educational sessions, what brought everyone together was the networking and sharing. The day proved we are all one community working to meet the need for affordable fresh produce no matter the location of the garden.”

Keynote Speakers:

Pam speaking at the Community Garden Gathering. VPM photo

Pam Dawling, Sustainable Market Farming

The Best Vegetable Cultivars to Grow in Our Area.

“This presentation will help you choose vegetable crops that fit your goals, resources, conditions and priorities. It will provide tips on choosing varieties likely to bring you success, and practical ways to compare several cultivars. It includes my own list of favorite varieties, ones that do well in Central Virginia. There will be a handout including my list and lots of resources for more info.”

Stacey Evers, Hands on Harvests

Growing Food Security from the Ground Up

“As gardeners, we possess knowledge that can improve our communities exponentially, but we don’t always know how to act with that knowledge. Hear how one organization is creating new approaches to community gardens in Fairfax County and walk away with tools for cultivating your community garden vision.”

In addition there were ten breakout sessions.

And here you can see my slideshow

The Best Vegetable Cultivars to Grow in Our Area

That view is small. I’ll work on posting a bigger one. I’ve uploaded to SlideShare.

<iframe src=”https://www.slideshare.net/slideshow/embed_code/key/aPPuHTNgGgfzEE” width=”510″ height=”420″frameborder=”0″ marginwidth=”0″ marginheight=”0″ scrolling=”no”style=”border: var(–border-1) solid #CCC; border-width:1px; margin-bottom:5px; max-width:100%;”allowfullscreen></iframe><div style=”margin-bottom:5px”><strong><a href=”https://www.slideshare.net/slideshow/the-best-vegetable-cultivars-to-grow-in-our-area-2026-45-min-vpm-pdf/287068035″ title=”the-best-vegetable-cultivars-to-grow-in-our-area-2026-45-min-vpm-pdf” target=”_blank”>the-best-vegetable-cultivars-to-grow-in-our-area-2026-45-min-vpm-pdf</a></strong>from <strong><a href=”https://www.slideshare.net/SustainableMarketFarming” target=”_blank”>Pam Dawling</a></strong></div>

Or try this link

https://www.slideshare.net/slideshow/the-best-vegetable-cultivars-to-grow-in-our-area-2026-45-min-vpm-pdf/287068035

Also see my post about my July 2025 appearance on the VHG TV Program